getting rid of orange peels on PU material
#1
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Hello guys, I'm sorry if this thread has been already made or if this is even in the right section. I've searched about 30minutes typing in "orange peels" on the search feature and I have no luck. Anyways, cutting to the chase, I was wondering if anyone knows how to get rid of orange peels on Polyutherene material. I tried painting a replica part thats made of polyutherene and it has a few orange peels. Is there anything I can use to spread on and sand down smooth? Thanks in advance.
#3
Lexus Champion
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this would be a start. but you would need to refine the finish with a few steps to obtain optical clarity in the paint. wet sanding alone will leave the paint very hazy. there was a detailer that put up series of vids on youtube on the process of wet sanding and how to properly finish it down. definitely should watch it to get an idea.
#4
Lexus Test Driver
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Wetsand with high grit to make sure you don't sand through it. Then follow that with even higher one to to make it easier to polish out. Then you hit it with a machine. Its just a series of steps, not too hard but I'd recommend someone who knows what they're doing to do it just in case
#5
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do you have the proper tools?
Unigrit sandpaper 1500 - 3000 grit
DA polisher or rotary
polishes like Meguiars 105 & 205
if so then it won't be that difficult unless the piece has alot of curves and bends. I would not attempt to get 3000 grit sanding marks out without a machine though.
Unigrit sandpaper 1500 - 3000 grit
DA polisher or rotary
polishes like Meguiars 105 & 205
if so then it won't be that difficult unless the piece has alot of curves and bends. I would not attempt to get 3000 grit sanding marks out without a machine though.
#6
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You will need to sand the surface flat (removing the peek's of the orange peel) and than use a polish to remove the sanding scratches.
I would look into Meguiar's Unigrit papers.
Do you have a machine polisher, any experience with a machine polisher?
I would look into Meguiar's Unigrit papers.
Do you have a machine polisher, any experience with a machine polisher?
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#8
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Oh ok, so what grit do you guys think I should start with? I've been using 1500 grit and it seems to do nothing but strip paint off. What would be my next grit? I do have experience with a DA during autobody class but it was about 5years ago. Lol and I have no access to any DA as of right now. I would just take it to the paint shop, but that would be my last option. Appreciate the feedbacks guys.
#9
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Oh ok, so what grit do you guys think I should start with? I've been using 1500 grit and it seems to do nothing but strip paint off. What would be my next grit? I do have experience with a DA during autobody class but it was about 5years ago. Lol and I have no access to any DA as of right now. I would just take it to the paint shop, but that would be my last option. Appreciate the feedbacks guys.
#10
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Technically sandpaper is supposed to do that lol. Move up to 2000, then 2500, then finish off with 3000. That is assuming you didn't kill all your clearcoat thats on it so far. Then you can polish it by hand with Meguiars Ultimate Compound. That should be it assuming you still can't have access to a DA
#11
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didn't know you were just starting to paint.
if the surface is not smooth, then you will need to build up the paint, sanding between each layer, before you add the next coat. The sanding with 1500, 2500, and 3000 grits then polishing is for when you are working on the final clearcoat layer only. If you are still at primer stage, then you can go with 800 grit to make things go faster. Sanding the bottom layers with such fine paper is a waste of paper, time, and effort b/c you are just going to spray another layer on top anyhow.
Here is a link to a cobra that was brought to a special detailer right after it was driven off the dealer lot to get rid of orange peel. Pretty cool the things those guys can do:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...da-system.html
if the surface is not smooth, then you will need to build up the paint, sanding between each layer, before you add the next coat. The sanding with 1500, 2500, and 3000 grits then polishing is for when you are working on the final clearcoat layer only. If you are still at primer stage, then you can go with 800 grit to make things go faster. Sanding the bottom layers with such fine paper is a waste of paper, time, and effort b/c you are just going to spray another layer on top anyhow.
Here is a link to a cobra that was brought to a special detailer right after it was driven off the dealer lot to get rid of orange peel. Pretty cool the things those guys can do:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...da-system.html
#13
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Haha. with all due respect all I've seen is bad input.
OP did you sand down the polyurethane? Dry sand the polyurethane with at least 180 grit. I would really recommend spaying adhesion promoter before the primer to insure the primer doesnt chip off.
Orangepeel could be a improperly prepped surface or a bad air setting on your gun or improper spraying technique. But on primer some orangepeel is acceptable since you'll be sanding it down smooth with 800 grit (I recommend it).
OP did you sand down the polyurethane? Dry sand the polyurethane with at least 180 grit. I would really recommend spaying adhesion promoter before the primer to insure the primer doesnt chip off.
Orangepeel could be a improperly prepped surface or a bad air setting on your gun or improper spraying technique. But on primer some orangepeel is acceptable since you'll be sanding it down smooth with 800 grit (I recommend it).
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