When does getting a PC make sense?
04-09-11, 03:34 AM
#16
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The simplest answer to your question is that the getting the PC (or any random orbital DA) makes sense when...
A good detail/paint polishing from a decent detailer is going to cost 300-500 dollars, or a total of 2700-4500 dollars over 9 years. Again this is taking your paint to a show car standard (which is MUCH HIGHER than most detailers are capable of). A good, complete kit such as our Kevin Brown Method kits cost around 300 dollars...
How many times you can polish your paint is going to depend soley on how much paint you are removing each time you polish it. If you polish it the first time, then use careful washing techniques, then you will never need an aggressive polishing session again. This is because any marring created by properly washing your car is going to be very light. However, if you wash your car with a brillo pad and run it through an automated 'swirl-o-matic' car wash, then you are going have very deep marring that requires a lot of aggressive polishing to level the paint. You might not make it 9 years.
- 1) you want your car to have a show car shine. That is a relatively swirl free finish that reflects maximum light AND
- 2) you want to do it yourself, whether to save money or for the experience/sense of accomplishment.
A good detail/paint polishing from a decent detailer is going to cost 300-500 dollars, or a total of 2700-4500 dollars over 9 years. Again this is taking your paint to a show car standard (which is MUCH HIGHER than most detailers are capable of). A good, complete kit such as our Kevin Brown Method kits cost around 300 dollars...
How many times you can polish your paint is going to depend soley on how much paint you are removing each time you polish it. If you polish it the first time, then use careful washing techniques, then you will never need an aggressive polishing session again. This is because any marring created by properly washing your car is going to be very light. However, if you wash your car with a brillo pad and run it through an automated 'swirl-o-matic' car wash, then you are going have very deep marring that requires a lot of aggressive polishing to level the paint. You might not make it 9 years.
04-09-11, 08:28 AM
#17
Good point about the guitar! We all run through several dreams and aspirations until we find that one or two that really fit just right.
I really don't have any experience with waxes other than Meguiar's. Of the ones I used (Gold Class Plus, M21, M26 and Ultimate Wax) there is no need to use a PC to take them off. I put them on with a 4" soft pad on the PC and do the entire car. An hour or two and recently in one case eight hours later, I wipe them off with a microfiber. Easy on, easy off. Could all be done by hand.
Paint correction on the other hand, in my mind, requires a machine. Polishing after correction, again in my mind, could be done by hand, but is much easier with a machine.
As you imply, the PC could end up on the shelf with the guitar.
I really don't have any experience with waxes other than Meguiar's. Of the ones I used (Gold Class Plus, M21, M26 and Ultimate Wax) there is no need to use a PC to take them off. I put them on with a 4" soft pad on the PC and do the entire car. An hour or two and recently in one case eight hours later, I wipe them off with a microfiber. Easy on, easy off. Could all be done by hand.
Paint correction on the other hand, in my mind, requires a machine. Polishing after correction, again in my mind, could be done by hand, but is much easier with a machine.
As you imply, the PC could end up on the shelf with the guitar.
04-09-11, 11:29 AM
#18
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Guys, great feedback here, thank you.
As for a tool for waxing, it is not clear yet if many of you use the PC to remove the wax. And if so, how easy is it to use...that is, I assume you use the PC to apply the wax. After application, is it a PITA to switch out the finishing pad, then switch back to the application pad for the next panel, etc.?
As for the number of times I guess I would use this to polish my car, I would assume once a year? So maybe using it 8-10 times, I would easily save money.
Further input welcome! I just don't want another piece of machinery lying around unused.
I picked up a new guitar thinking I would learn to play it...we all know the end of that story!
As for a tool for waxing, it is not clear yet if many of you use the PC to remove the wax. And if so, how easy is it to use...that is, I assume you use the PC to apply the wax. After application, is it a PITA to switch out the finishing pad, then switch back to the application pad for the next panel, etc.?
As for the number of times I guess I would use this to polish my car, I would assume once a year? So maybe using it 8-10 times, I would easily save money.
Further input welcome! I just don't want another piece of machinery lying around unused.
I picked up a new guitar thinking I would learn to play it...we all know the end of that story!
04-09-11, 11:47 AM
#19
I'm of the belief that using the least amount of pressure/friction to remove the microscopically thin coat of wax or sealant will leave more of it on the paint, therefore I remove wax/sealant with a folded MF towel and only wipe away the haze and I don't excessively buff. I do frequently use a PC to apply it however.
04-09-11, 04:07 PM
#20
I'm of the belief that using the least amount of pressure/friction to remove the microscopically thin coat of wax or sealant will leave more of it on the paint, therefore I remove wax/sealant with a folded MF towel and only wipe away the haze and I don't excessively buff. I do frequently use a PC to apply it however.
(Jim - miss your red avatar)
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