TYPEONE8

I bought a WEN 7-inch sander/polisher, the only problem i have with it is that it only has 2 speeds one is low speed at 1100rpm the other is hi speed at 1350rpm so are these speeds good for polishing and waxing i plan on using Meguiars 8-inch polishing pad and buffing pad also with Meguiars ulimate compound and ultimate wax on my black is300 that has a bunch of swirls. I plan on washing, clay it, polish, and waxing it but i dont want to use it if the speeds are not suitable for this process and ill just return it.

embolism

If you have never used a polisher before then return it or pick up a black hood at the junkyard and practice before you try it on your car. Also wear some old clothes and be nowhere near your car when you when you practice b/c you will probably throw splatter everywhere.

IMO, rotaries are only good for taking off alot of material in a short amount of time (i.e. wetsanding marks). If you are just polishing out swirls and applying wax, then a Dual action polisher like the Porter Cable, Griots Garage, or Meguiar's machines are easier to use and better suited for these purposes.

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

^^Technically if you are skilled enough you can control how much it takes off by varying the type of pad and polish being used. Just stating that in case people are scared away by the rotary

TYPEONE8

So i was just wondering if the rpms (1100, 1350) are good enough cause its only 2 speed ill try using a used hood, or should i polish by hand and wax with the rotary buffer??

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

I agree.

To say a rotary is only good for removing alot of paint quickly is just complete misstatement. Try telling that one to Paul Dalton or any other high end detailer for that matter. haha.

embolism

obviously, the OP has never used one before so I stand behind my statement. He's got a black car and the first time he puts a machine on it is a rotary? Unless you know what you are doing you won't even be able to pick up a bead of polish at the lowest speed without it slinging all over the place. I've seen guys who knock out a car with a DA no problem and the first time they pick up a rotary, they make a mess.

Those guys like Dalton became good with rotaries b/c that was all they had. If I gave you a paint brush and some paint could you paint me a van gogh?

Even Todd who posts on here has said that he uses his DA more than rotary nowadays and can get better results with it (considering the advancements they have made in pads, polishes, etc) than he could with a rotary (and he has won awards for his work done exclusively with rotaries).

embolism

polishing by hand is very difficult (by polishing, I mean removing a uniform amount of clear such that all your paint is now at the same level so the swirls are gone). This is best done with a machine using the least aggressive polish and pad combination that gets the job done.

Waxing is easier to do with a DA and it is easier to put on a thin coat so you use less product and make it easier to remove later.

I always remove my wax/sealant by hand.

pls return that machine and purchase a DA. Your paint will thank you.

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

That's your opinion and that's fine... but your statement about rotaries only being good for removing material quick has nothing to do with the OP and nothing to do with the users experience. That was a direct attack at the machine itself. I have a few rotaries (Milwaukee and PE14-2) and a DA (3401) and they are all great tools. For a neglected car that has severe marring, scratching and swirls I would not even think about touching my DA because I don't have a week to correct what a rotary can do in a fraction of the time. If holograms are a problem when you are dealing with difficult paint and don't wanna mess with different polish and pad selection on a rotary, that's when the DA Flex comes out and takes care of it with no issues.

Every machine has it's place. There's a reason new rotaries are still being designed today. If they were so ineffective, everybody would be using only DA polishers. And it has nothing to do with "that's all they had"... believe me DA polishers have been around for decades, it's nothing new. The only thing new is the MF correction system that came out and that is not something any top end detailer would use...not even on a half-expensive car.

embolism

I never said they were ineffective -- on the contrary, they are so effective, if you aren't careful you can burn your paint or put in some nice holograms that will stand out like crazy on a black car. I've never even heard of the model the OP is using but assuming it is on par with stuff like harbour freight...

I understand your point about the machines. Obviously I'm not posting this stuff on a thread about rotaries. I was honestly addressing the OP with my post.

Perhaps you could offer some suggestions for learning how to use a rotary (in case OP really wants to learn) since you have experience with them.

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

In my learning stages of PC to Rotary, I found it extremely difficult to burn paint. Its literally common sense when working with rotary. Not too much pressure to "grip" the paint, plenty of lubrication, and speeds within reason. I've finished down perfectly with rotary. In fact, I rarely touch my PC after I broke the rotating shaft. It takes practice and skill thats all

embolism

okay

do you have any advice for the OP and the specific rotary he purchased?

eyezack87

iTrader: (4)

Those speeds seem fine for most polishing. I vary from 900-1300rpm when polishing paint on most vehicles. My suggestion to the OP is to practice on a scrap piece of trunk with the appropriate pads/polish before attempting it on his own. Just in case he does somehow mess up or the machine's true speed isn't as listed

TYPEONE8

Ok i returned the WEN cause i couldnt find any videos on it and kinda of sketchy using it with those 2 speeds so i bought one from harbor freight it seems to be good seen a few videos on it some like it some dont but what i like about it is that i can adjust the speed from 200-3377rpm. So now my question what rpm should i polish and wax or speed level i should set it too. Im going to be using Meguiars polishing and buffing pads with swirlx and ultimate wax and is pre polishing compound necessary before i wax the car?

embolism

can you post a pic of your paint in the sunlight? Maybe take a pic of the worst swirls you are talking about. Your car is black and an older MY so I'm thinking the paint condition is pretty bad if it hasn't been polished before. On the flip side, Swirl X is a very mild polish. Seems almost counter intuitive to be using it with something as powerful as a rotary but if you want to give it a go, then practice and consider a more aggressive product like Ultimate Compound. I don't know what pads to use with a rotary so maybe the guys can help you there.

Here are some articles for you to read:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ear-coats.html
The holograms on the black lexus in the first pic is what can happen with your rotary if you aren't careful.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...hind-term.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...owed-down.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...g-project.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ry-buffer.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...prise-you.html

Here's the entire list:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-phillips.html

And another list of articles to read, there is a guide specifically for rotary polishing
http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html

Also read about proper washing techniques and supplies so once you get your car looking fine, you don't mess it up again after the first wash.

Good luck and have fun