Adik

iTrader: (3)

so on my old car... i only wax it and quick detailer after i wash it... but now i wanna go to the next lvl.. haha..

so what kind of stuffs do i need? does the color of the car matter? if it does

i own a SFP... i wanna do an all out detail...

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

I got a few barely used/new detailing products that i'm not using anymore. PM me if interested.

jfelbab

Haven't posted this in a while but you might find it helpful.

I've developed my "best practices" over 52 years of detailing (now retired) and they are still constantly evolving as new products come to market. But, bear in mind that there are a lot of right answers and a lot of good products to choose from. This is what works for me and I'm of the opinion that you should to find what works for you and stick with it. An important fact to remember, it is the process that is the key to stunning results and the products are secondary to the process.

Typically, every 3-4 months I do a complete detail of my personal cars. The timing depends on the environment and how the car was kept. The detail entails a Wash, Clay, Polish and Wax or Sealant. Once I have done a complete detail I maintain by washing every week and applying a gloss enhancer product, Ultimate Quik Wax (UQW) after every wash.

Washing - An occasional run through a touchfree Laser Automatic Wash won't damage the finish during periods of inclement weather but I avoid any cloth automatic wash or washes that towel dry your car. I prefer washing it myself using a good quality car wash.

I never use a dishwashing detergent on my vehicles as it is not as good as a car wash. It is designed to remove grease from dishes, not dirt from paint. It also will remove some protection (wax or sealants).

I use two 5 gallon buckets with grit guards (one for soap and one for rinsing the wash mitts) and I measure the precise amount of car wash concentrate to use. Using too much will shorten the life of the wax or sealant. Using too little will not deliver the needed lubricity.

I always wash my car in the shade when the paint is cool to the touch so that I don't develop water spots which can be difficult to remove.

I buy new sheepskin wash mitts every few months and keep them spotless. I don't use the same mitt on my wheels and rocker panels that I use to wash my paint. Older mitts get this dirtier task.

I dry my vehicle using an open hose and low pressure flow to sheet off as much water as I can then I gently blot dry with waffle-weave microfiber towels. I consider these much better at absorbing water and not marring the paint than a chamois.

I now evaluate the paint to see what steps are needed.

Clay - Even new cars can benefit from clay. I lightly draw my dry fingertips over the paint on my hood after it has been washed and dried. If it doesn't feel as smooth as glass, I clay.

I cut the clay bar into two or three pieces and put the unused piece(s) in a plastic box or baggie. If (when) I drop a piece of clay while using it, I throw it away and fetch one of the unused pieces. I use lots of the supplied Quik Detailer lube. I clay a 2' x 2' section at a time and test with my fingertips to insure that the contaminants have ben removed. As the clay gets dirty I fold it and re-kneed it into a pad and continue the process.

I clay my paint then move on and clay the windows and finally the wheels. I toss the piece of clay when I have finished with the wheels as it is now qute contaminated and should not be used back on paint again.

Cleaning and Polishing - I use a paint cleaner or a combination cleaner/polish product to remove stains and grime that is imbedded in the paint. I like Meguiar's new #205 (Ultra Finishing Polish) for this but Meg's SwirlX is also fine if you prefer OTC products. If you have deeper marring you might try the more aggressive Meguiar's #105 (Ultra Cut Compound), ScratchX or their Ultimate Compound product.

If you can afford a buffer look for a good dual action orbital type. Don't expect to polish paint with the cheap $30 stuff on the market. They might apply wax ok but they don't have the power needed to correct defects in paint. A rotary buffer can damage your paint if you are not skilled in it's use and paint repair costs a lot of money. OTOH, it is almost impossible to harm your paint with a good DA orbital buffer and the proper pads. You can use a DA buffer to polish your paint very frequently with no fear of removing too much paint. I use a Porter-Cable 7336 that is now 17 years old and still going strong. One of the best detailing tools I ever bought, it cuts my detailing time by a factor of 10 over polishing by hand. Now with the new microfiber pads this tool is even more effective.

Waxing/Sealing - Now that the finish is looking its best, I seal it to protect the look. It is important to note that a wax or sealant imparts surprisingly little to the overall look. Most of the appearance (85-90%) comes from the previous polishing steps in your preparation. Waxing or sealing protects that look.

It is commonly believed that if you live in a very hot area of the country, a polymer sealant may be a better choice than a carnauba wax. Tests show that pure carnauba wax begins to evaporate at 160° F, a temperature paint surfaces easily can reach. Most carnauba waxes are not pure carnauba however but I believe polymer sealants do have a much higher resistance to heat.

For sealants, I like Meguiar's #21 (Synthetic Sealant) or NXT Tech Wax 2.0. The wetlook shine delivered is as good or better than any other product I've used. If you prefer the warm glow of a carnauba by all means use it. I'd plan on applying carnaubas more frequently in hot climates.

A polymer sealant is a great product for wheels too. It resists brake dust and wheels stay clean longer and clean up easier. I like Meguiar's Quik Wheel Detailer for this purpose as it is extremely slippery and brake dust hardly sticks to it. I spray on a MF applicator and apply to the wheel and buff.

Leather - I use a leather cleaner and a protectant at least quarterly to keep it clean, supple and to prevent it from drying out and cracking. My favorite products for leather are Leather Masters Leather Cleaner and Leather Masters Protection Cream.

When cleaning leather, I make sure to wipe off all traces of the detergent with a moist cotton towel after cleaning. I then buff dry with another cotton towel and wait about 10 minutes before applying the protection cream. I advise against using conditioner products. They are, as a group, oily or slippery and they can't penetrate the leather as most auto leather is coated with a urethane paint. a conditioner usually leaves a film of oil or silicone on the seats which acts to attract more dirt and dust. I prefer to use a protectant on the leather as it dries hard and does not attract or hold on to dirt. The LM Protection Cream leaves the leather dry and silky smooth. The best thing you can do for your leather is to keep it clean. I use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer on a weekly basis to remove any dirt and dust from my leather and also lay down UVA and UVB protection.

Other Interior - For interior detailing I prefer Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. This is a product that does not add gloss or leave an oily residue. It leaves the interior looking like new. It doesn't make the dash glossy so that it produces glare. This product also has UV protection to slow aging and prevent sun damage and is nearly odorless.

Tires - It is important to clean the tires well prior to application of any dressing. I don't like chemical tire/wheel cleaners as they will strip any wax or sealant on the wheels. Instead I use a stiff brush and car wash soap. I let the tires dry fully then apply a thin coat of tire dressing. I pay particular attention to keeping the coating thin and even. I spray it on a foam tire applicator and wipe down the tire with a terry cloth to remove excess. I carefully wipe out the tire sipes to minimize any potential for it to sling onto the paint.

I also occasionally clean the tires with a pressure washer that has a low power setting (600-800 psi). This device is also fairly useful for cleaning fender wells.

Maintenance - Finally, I maintain the exterior with a spray gloss enhancer. There are several products here that work well. I use Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax (UQW). This is a Wipe On - Wipe Off (WOWO) product that applies in about 10 - 15 minutes and leaves the paint very slick with that freshly detailed look. The added slickness afforded by this approach greatly aids in preventing bugs and dirt from sticking to the paint and makes the car almost self cleaning. I also find the product to give a RainX effect to glass and it is an excellent exterior vinyl protector. One product does it all.

I also keep a bottle of Quik Detailer and a few microfiber towels in the car to use to remove bird droppings, bugs or other messes as soon as they occur. Bugs and bird droppings will often permanently etch paint if not removed promptly.

As a last note, swirls and cobwebs are easier to prevent than to remove. Everything that touches the paint has the potential to cause marring so I take great care to use impeccably clean towels and applicators and minimize, as much as possible, any unnecessary contact with the paint.

For videos of the correct processes see Meguiar's or AutoGeek's websites.


Warning... Detailing is a sickness. I caught it 52 years ago and am still afflicted. LOL

Adik

iTrader: (3)

thanks.. ur post is very helpful... so what kind of clay do u use? and can i use the clay like a wax? do the car first then take em all of the same time?

Adik

iTrader: (3)

idk what im talking about... lol... never used clay... or a polisher...

rayon78

yes this post is very useful jfelbab.

jfelbab

I personally use Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay kit but In terms of clay performance they all, Mother's, Clay Magic and Meguiar's, get the job done. I chose Meguiar's for the two large bars in the kit, a plastic storage box is included as is a good quality microfiber towel and a bottle of QD.

If you are shopping for supplies, don't overlook our forum sponsors as they usually offer a discount and get glowing reviews for customer support. Occasionally they offer a BOGO deal and/or free shipping offers.

Adik

iTrader: (3)

so who do u think is the best forums sponsor i should buy stuffs?

im planning on getting a whole kit... is porter cable 7424xp ok?

jfelbab

All the sponsors here provide great service, IMO. I've not heard a bad word about any. The best sponsor is the one who has the products you want and the prices that seem fair.

My first buffer was a Porter-Cable and it is a rugged machine. It came with a "Lifetime" warranty and it's still running today after more than 15 years of heavy use. Back then it was made in the US. Today I believe it is Chinese made.

That said, If I were to buy another buffer today, I'd pick up the following:

Meguiar's Microfiber Correction System.

Here is a link to the kit.
http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-da-...er-system.html

If you choose another DA buffer you can still use the MF pads and polishes. A starter kit is available the supplies everything you need to run on many DA buffers.

Adik

iTrader: (3)

thanks man... uve been really helpful..

Adik

iTrader: (3)

and uhh.. is it better to use the foam or microfiber?

jfelbab

That's mostly a personal choice. Foam has been the tool for many years but technology moves on and I like the MF pads much more than the foam. They cut faster and finish nicer, IMO. Pads are relative inexpensive and you should try both types and choose which you like better.

Also keep in mind that auto paint is different from vehicle to vehicle. Some paint is soft and others hard. Some take more work to cut and polish and others are easy. When starting to use the DA buffer always do a small (1'x1') test spot with the pad/polish and see if it is making the corrections you are expecting. If not change the pressure, the pad or the polish and test again.

Be sure to view the videos showing the polishing process I mentioned earlier on in this thread. Polishing paint, while not rocket science, is often like an art form and you get better at it with every use.

Adik

iTrader: (3)

another question.... i washed my car and waxed it... but theres like dirt spots i cant remove... like dirty water spots on the bumper... do i have to clay it? idk what to do

jw669

iTrader: (8)

You may need to polish it

jfelbab

Do these specks feel like something "ON" the paint?

If you draw your dry fingertips over the specks do they feel like something stuck on the paint? It so I'd try clay to remove them. If the paint feels smooth over the specks then I'd try a polish.