sdwtchlvr

iTrader: (1)

I've tried to clean headlights countless times before. Purchased those kits from auto part stores but have never really be able to achieve the results I was after. But every kit I bought previously required sanding by hand.

I finally broke down and dropped $25 on a kit with an attachment for my drill...for some rotary action. I know...I'm a cheap skate when it comes to these sorts of things. The kit I got was the 3M headlight restoration kit pictured below. It comes with an attachment for a drill and 3 levels of sanding discs and 1 buffer wheel. Each headlight takes about 20 minutes and that's including prep.




These are just iphone pics but I'm really pleased with the result. Here is a pic of the semi-restored headlight. What you are looking at is the best I could achieve with a kit requiring me to sand by hand.



And here is a pic of the restored headlight using the 3M kit. The photo doesn't show it but it looks brilliant.



And here is a pic of both, unrestored and restored.



All in all, I'm very pleased. As I'm sure many of you know, restoring the headlights greatly improves the look of your exterior. $25 well spent. I'm sure there are other kits that have drill adapters and they probably all work just about the same. But take my advice and go for one of them...you'll be glad you did.

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

Yep, people have been using that kit for many years now. It's probably one of the most popular "kits" out there. It basically takes the "buff and wax" approach that many detailers use and gives you all the supplies needed in one package.

I really hate to be the bearer of bad news, but this is not a permanent solution to the problem. If your headlights are becoming dull and/or yellowing, it's a sign of clearcoat failure. Most cars have a thin protective coating on the headlights that over time tends to fade away. When it fades (usually do to sun exposure), the bare plastic lens starts looking very dull and aged. Polishing the headlights, wetsanding, and waxing/sealing is only good for a quick fix. Be prepared to do this every few months or so to restore that "new headlight" look.

Only way to solve the problem permanently is to completely sand off the factory coating (usually 400>800>1000>1500) and to reapply a new coating and get that UV treated. Or have a bodyshop just sand off the coating and apply automotive grade clearcoat (in case they don't have a UV lamp) as that should last for a good number of years too without needing much upkeep.

Either way, great work, and great product, especially for those that don't have a buffer since this is designed to be used with a drill.

sdwtchlvr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info. I was unaware of any of clear coat issue. How ever I don't think it's worth the trouble or cost to have them clear coated by a body shop...but I don't have a problem throwing a wax on them when I wash/wax my car which is about every 2-3 weeks. Should pro-long the deterioration a bit.

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

Waxing might help, although I personally haven't seen a clear difference between waxing after buffing and leaving unprotected. Another option to consider is to apply a clear film on the headlights(same material that is used for clear bras). Many people have their headlights wrapped when they drop their car for clear bra installation, and apparently the film really protects the headlights over the years. I haven't tried it myself, but it seems like something you can even do yourself with a little research and patience, wrapping a few headlights can't be that hard I am assuming.

Or you can look at nano-coatings like Aquartz or Cquartz or something like Opti-Coat 2.0. These products are usually applied on the entire car including the headlights or taillights. They are basically very durable sealants (last over a year, and Opti-Coat apparently lasts many years without EVER needing any waxing or anything else while it's on the car). Only downside is, you can't really remove them or strip them like traditional LSPs. You need to use a polisher of some sort to remove the product if you change your mind in the future.

UDel

Those drill/buffing kits are nice and will work with very minor headlight fogging but they either don't or barely work on most polycarbonate/lexan headlights that have more serious headlight yellowing,fogging, or crazing. With the more noticeable headlight dulling you can not avoid the need to wet sand to get them looking new to almost brand new. I have tried a yellow pad with a compound with my PC the fastest speed on my headlights when they were bad and it did not even make a difference. I had to wet sand to get them looking mostly new and get that yellow off. Adding wax helps but after a year they end up starting to turn yellow/foggy again and will require wet sanding again. I will try Opti Coat 2.0 and see if that works in keeping the headlights clearer.

tapau

After reading on the net I ended up buying the Sylvania kit because it was the only one that included the UV coating. Maybe you could just get a bottle of it instead of the entire kit.

LexyISF

Just wet sand them. No need for a kit. I did this today actually, just used 600 then 2000. Polish up with Menzerna 203S (a medium polish) and job done.

embolism

you could also do a 50/50 coating of spar urethane and mineral spirits to seal the lights.

don't even need to buff, just wet sand up to 2000 grit and coat...