PC detailing advice..
12-21-11, 04:12 PM
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PC detailing advice..
I just washed, clayed, washed, and waxed with Meguire Ultimate Wax last week but I wasn't happy with the result.. So I decided to purchase PC 7424 and detailing kit.
Before I start using XMT fine swirl remover #2 do I need to strip my wax with dawn?
How many pads do I need to complete the each step? kit comes with 1 orange, 1 white, and 2 gray pads..
My plan is to do the following:
1. XMT #2 with Orange pad
2. XMT #1 with White pad
3. Carnauba Finishing Glaze with Graypad
Any help / tips will be greatly appreciated!!!!!
Before I start using XMT fine swirl remover #2 do I need to strip my wax with dawn?
How many pads do I need to complete the each step? kit comes with 1 orange, 1 white, and 2 gray pads..
My plan is to do the following:
1. XMT #2 with Orange pad
2. XMT #1 with White pad
3. Carnauba Finishing Glaze with Graypad
Any help / tips will be greatly appreciated!!!!!
12-21-11, 06:21 PM
#2
Definitely strip the old wax.
Go to Walgreens and get some IPA and dilute it 50/50 with water. You use this rubbing alcohol solution after you are finished polishing to remove any leftover oils. This must be done to insure a clean surface before you wax or seal the paint.
As far as which pads to use.
Start with the least aggressive. If you are happy with the results, do the whole car that way. I've done several Lexus paints, they are relatively soft (not Honda soft, but still soft).
Start with a white pad and the swirl remover polish (not really fimiliar with any XMT products). Do one pass until the polish is completely broken down. Wipe the panel clean with a soft MF towel. Inspect the work with a spot light. If the swirls are gone, use that on the whole car. A black/grey pad is really only needed on really dark colors. If your car is light colored, it's kinda a waste of time, but go ahead and do it for the sake of practice. Don't forget a full IPA wipedown after you wash your car after the correction and before the final wax/sealant app.
If you got any more questions, shoot away. Hope I helped a little.
Go to Walgreens and get some IPA and dilute it 50/50 with water. You use this rubbing alcohol solution after you are finished polishing to remove any leftover oils. This must be done to insure a clean surface before you wax or seal the paint.
As far as which pads to use.
Start with the least aggressive. If you are happy with the results, do the whole car that way. I've done several Lexus paints, they are relatively soft (not Honda soft, but still soft).
Start with a white pad and the swirl remover polish (not really fimiliar with any XMT products). Do one pass until the polish is completely broken down. Wipe the panel clean with a soft MF towel. Inspect the work with a spot light. If the swirls are gone, use that on the whole car. A black/grey pad is really only needed on really dark colors. If your car is light colored, it's kinda a waste of time, but go ahead and do it for the sake of practice. Don't forget a full IPA wipedown after you wash your car after the correction and before the final wax/sealant app.
If you got any more questions, shoot away. Hope I helped a little.
12-21-11, 06:26 PM
#3
Forgot to say, don't be afraid to really use that PC. It's pretty much fool proof, so don't worry about moving the machine fast. It's a pretty weak polisher, so to get any type of correction with one, keep the arm speed slow and crank the machine to max or close to it. I'd also do a mark on the backing plate to know when the pad is spinning or just jiggling. If you push down too hard it will stop spinning and won't remove any type of paint defect.
12-22-11, 10:00 AM
#4
you should really have more than 1 pad of the orange and white. Once the pad loads up with product and removed material, performance will drop. What size pads are you using? If 6.5 inch by 1.25 inch thick then good luck getting them to spin on a PC. For best correction results, 5.5 inch pads are best, the thinner the better (i.e 7/8 inch flat pads).
Anyhow, after completing a panel, use the cleaning on the fly method where you hold a terry towel against the pad to take off as much spent product etc as possible. You don't have to reprime your pad, just put on 3 more dime sized drops then go to your next panel. Even doing this, I'll change out pads either 1/2 way or 1/3 of the way through a car. Gives you better results and the pads last longer overall. Unless you get a few more pads, you won't be able to do this.
Make sure you do a test spot with a tapeline so you can see if your technique (slow movement with pressure, and X number of passes) is working for you. It's a big waste of time and effort if you just slap on a pad, polish the whole car, strip off the polishing oils (this is important b/c they can sometimes hide fine swirls/marring that you will see later after a few washes) then pull it out into the sun and see that you didn't get the results you were hoping for.
Once you get a good result on your test spot, then just replicate that process on the entire car and you are golden.
Anyhow, after completing a panel, use the cleaning on the fly method where you hold a terry towel against the pad to take off as much spent product etc as possible. You don't have to reprime your pad, just put on 3 more dime sized drops then go to your next panel. Even doing this, I'll change out pads either 1/2 way or 1/3 of the way through a car. Gives you better results and the pads last longer overall. Unless you get a few more pads, you won't be able to do this.
Make sure you do a test spot with a tapeline so you can see if your technique (slow movement with pressure, and X number of passes) is working for you. It's a big waste of time and effort if you just slap on a pad, polish the whole car, strip off the polishing oils (this is important b/c they can sometimes hide fine swirls/marring that you will see later after a few washes) then pull it out into the sun and see that you didn't get the results you were hoping for.
Once you get a good result on your test spot, then just replicate that process on the entire car and you are golden.
12-22-11, 05:59 PM
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As for wiping down after polishing, you do risk marking your paint when you do that, so be careful! Not really needed if using wax, but sealant yes. Waste of time if you are going to glaze anyway.
12-22-11, 07:13 PM
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Yes like said before you need to strip off the Wax you laid down last week with a mixture of rubbing IPA Alcohol and water in a spray bottle and just spray and wipe off very gently with a MF cloth.
You would probably want to get a couple pads (2-4) of each, and depending on how deep the swirls are you might want to invest in a yellow light cut pad.
I also used a PC with a 6.5 inch and I'm not sure how it compares to 5.5 but it will work, it might take a while for it to start cutting and for you to start seeing results. Do 1 test panel (2x2) and go from the white pad to the orange pad. After you have figured out the amount of pressure and passes needed, you can move on.
Also be sure to tape off trim and any edges on the car as those parts have the least paint and you might polish off some paint.
Might want to use some tarp (or garbage bags) tape off the windows/tires where polish might splatter.
Good luck!
You would probably want to get a couple pads (2-4) of each, and depending on how deep the swirls are you might want to invest in a yellow light cut pad.
I also used a PC with a 6.5 inch and I'm not sure how it compares to 5.5 but it will work, it might take a while for it to start cutting and for you to start seeing results. Do 1 test panel (2x2) and go from the white pad to the orange pad. After you have figured out the amount of pressure and passes needed, you can move on.
Also be sure to tape off trim and any edges on the car as those parts have the least paint and you might polish off some paint.
Might want to use some tarp (or garbage bags) tape off the windows/tires where polish might splatter.
Good luck!
12-22-11, 07:51 PM
#7
Even 50% is too strong for IPA. About 20% is all that's needed. I much prefer using mineral spirits or panel wipe, seems a safer option, plus multiple wipe downs are not needed to remove LSP.
As for wiping down after polishing, you do risk marking your paint when you do that, so be careful! Not really needed if using wax, but sealant yes. Waste of time if you are going to glaze anyway.
As for wiping down after polishing, you do risk marking your paint when you do that, so be careful! Not really needed if using wax, but sealant yes. Waste of time if you are going to glaze anyway.
In the past I used to dilute much more at 12% or more often at 17.5% (70% IPA 8oz. into a 32oz. bottle, rest with water). They work fine, but imo going 50/50 is much more effective. Never had a problem, don't know anyone who has.
As far as not needing it, I highly disagree. Some waxes are stronger than sealants. Getting 476S stripped takes more effort than many traditional sealants, so it's definitely needed, and not only for stronger waxes.
Some sealants/coatings won't even bond if the surface is not completely clean of any old wax or polish oil (for instance, the popular Wolf's BW).
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12-23-11, 01:11 AM
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If you are getting the 70% IPA diluted 50/50 it forms a 35% solution. Hell, I've used 90% IPA at 50/50 and works just fine.
In the past I used to dilute much more at 12% or more often at 17.5% (70% IPA 8oz. into a 32oz. bottle, rest with water). They work fine, but imo going 50/50 is much more effective. Never had a problem, don't know anyone who has.
As far as not needing it, I highly disagree. Some waxes are stronger than sealants. Getting 476S stripped takes more effort than many traditional sealants, so it's definitely needed, and not only for stronger waxes.
Some sealants/coatings won't even bond if the surface is not completely clean of any old wax or polish oil (for instance, the popular Wolf's BW).
In the past I used to dilute much more at 12% or more often at 17.5% (70% IPA 8oz. into a 32oz. bottle, rest with water). They work fine, but imo going 50/50 is much more effective. Never had a problem, don't know anyone who has.
As far as not needing it, I highly disagree. Some waxes are stronger than sealants. Getting 476S stripped takes more effort than many traditional sealants, so it's definitely needed, and not only for stronger waxes.
Some sealants/coatings won't even bond if the surface is not completely clean of any old wax or polish oil (for instance, the popular Wolf's BW).
Read what I said again about wipe downs not being needed.....
There's safer (and more effective) products to strip LSP.
Last edited by LexyISF; 12-23-11 at 01:18 AM.
12-23-11, 01:40 AM
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12-23-11, 02:46 AM
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you want to talk about wasting energy?
why waste energy doing multiple wipe downs with IPA (it won't touch some sealants), when a wipe down with panel wipe will do the job in a single wipe down, and isn't as harsh if left on the paint?
And why waste energy doing a wipe down before you polish, if polishing will remove it?
why waste energy doing multiple wipe downs with IPA (it won't touch some sealants), when a wipe down with panel wipe will do the job in a single wipe down, and isn't as harsh if left on the paint?
And why waste energy doing a wipe down before you polish, if polishing will remove it?
12-23-11, 07:06 AM
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Thanks for the great info guys~!! I will def try different methods and see what comes out best.. I will def post results after I'm done.. still waiting for my package to come in!!! Hopefully Fedex takes care of my package o.O
12-26-11, 08:32 PM
#13
you want to talk about wasting energy?
why waste energy doing multiple wipe downs with IPA (it won't touch some sealants), when a wipe down with panel wipe will do the job in a single wipe down, and isn't as harsh if left on the paint?
And why waste energy doing a wipe down before you polish, if polishing will remove it?
why waste energy doing multiple wipe downs with IPA (it won't touch some sealants), when a wipe down with panel wipe will do the job in a single wipe down, and isn't as harsh if left on the paint?
And why waste energy doing a wipe down before you polish, if polishing will remove it?
As far as WHEN to do an IPA wipedown. Obviously you wouldn't do it BEFORE polishing. I don't know why you keep bringing that up; I know I never mentioned that. You do it after to remove "polishing" oils so your wax or sealant has a clean surface to bond with. That's it.
Please give me some links or proof that 50/50 70% IPA will burn paint. Kinda curious because I highly doubt it's possible, even if you purposely try to ruin paint using that.
12-28-11, 08:03 AM
#14
Yes like said before you need to strip off the Wax you laid down last week with a mixture of rubbing IPA Alcohol and water in a spray bottle and just spray and wipe off very gently with a MF cloth.
You would probably want to get a couple pads (2-4) of each, and depending on how deep the swirls are you might want to invest in a yellow light cut pad.
You would probably want to get a couple pads (2-4) of each, and depending on how deep the swirls are you might want to invest in a yellow light cut pad.
OP, you do not need to do this. Wash the car using your normal car soap, add some paint safe APC (like Optimum power clean) or some dawn dish soap if you want to help strip some of the lsp off, clay the car, then polish.
on soft lexus clear, you also probably don't need a yellow pad. The most I've ever needed is orange (light cutting). Paired with a nice diminishing abrasive polish like power finish or sip and you might get away with a one step. As for taping the car, to be safe, put some painters tape around the trim, side mirror crevices, and front/rear lights. No need to tape up the glass like you are spray painting the car.
as for wiping down after polishing, I prefer to just wash the car after polishing to get rid of polishing oils. Yes it takes a bit longer but with a black car, I won't use IPA at any concentration.
