what is the best leather cleaner product out there ?
#18
you mean those products are good to clean it up? I don't have tears, but expected lines for the age of car, and the lines seem to get amplied with dirt.
what kind of brush do you use to agitate?
I'm not going to use conditioner, but a protectant makes sense after i get it clean.
what kind of brush do you use to agitate?
I'm not going to use conditioner, but a protectant makes sense after i get it clean.
#19
#20
we have "Zero by Woolite". Is that the woolite you speak of?
we use folex in the house. it is a good carpet cleaner, almost too good. it gets the stain area cleaner than the rest of the carpet, then you can see the bright spot where the old stain was.
we use folex in the house. it is a good carpet cleaner, almost too good. it gets the stain area cleaner than the rest of the carpet, then you can see the bright spot where the old stain was.
#21
I personally use Leather Masters leather cleaner on my own leather, both automotive and home furnishing. I use Woolite Complete or Original on the other vehicles I still do. I believe Woolite Zero is also just fine for leather cleaning. Dilute anywhere in the range of 10:1 or 20:1 (water/Woolite)
Regardless of what cleaner you use, wipe down the leather with a wrung-out cotton towel to remove all traces of the detergent when you have finished cleaning the leather.
Regardless of what cleaner you use, wipe down the leather with a wrung-out cotton towel to remove all traces of the detergent when you have finished cleaning the leather.
#23
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (21)
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-131-a...r-cleaner.aspx
Cleaner
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-66-ad...nditioner.aspx
Conditioner
Excellent stuff.
Cleaner
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-66-ad...nditioner.aspx
Conditioner
Excellent stuff.
#25
TI II, that video seemed to show an already clean car. mine is quite bad. I tried mixed water/woolite and a probably-stiffer-brush athan I should have tried. Nope. tried a hard scrub with micro fiber cloth. nope.
tried a leather cleaning product from a car detailers kit. Nope.
maybe my seats are beyond hope and I'm expecting too much.
tried a leather cleaning product from a car detailers kit. Nope.
maybe my seats are beyond hope and I'm expecting too much.
#26
Lexus Fanatic
Leatherique will remove dirt and grime that other cleaners can't touch. And the best part is, it does it with almost no abrasion and will not damage the leather in any way. There is also no nasty soap residue left behind that you have to worry about.
#30
Cleaning should be a piece of cake. The leather, while dirty, appears to be in good shape. I would remind you that all that dirt on the leather becomes an abrasive every time you slide in and out of the car so prompt cleaning is important. I would use Leather Masters Strong leather cleaner on the leather and a foam pad. The proper cleaning method is CHAT. C=Chemical detergent, H=Heat, A= Agitation and T=Time.
The Chemical is the liquid detergent. The Heat is achieved by using warm/tepid water. Agitation is done via the foam pad by working the foamy mix in small circles, and Time refers to the dwell time.
You want to wet the foam pad with the cleaning solution and squeeze it repeatedly to work up a lot of foam. Clean a small area (about a foot square) at a time. Let the soapy/foamy mix dwell for a minute or two but not dry then wipe up with a clean, white cotton towel. Inspect the towel after the wipe-up and notice the dirt removed. Repeat this cleaning and inspect the towel again. When the seat is clean, the towel will come up clean as well.
If after two or three passes the area is not cleaning as you expect, you can use a soft nylon brush to gently agitate the soiled area to loosen the dirt but don't aggressively scrub the leather. The leather surface coating is really a thin layer of paint and you want to let the CHAT method do the work without damaging the leather surface.
Once you have cleaned the leather go back and wipe it down with another wrung out cotton towel to insure complete removal of all traces of the cleaner. Next, gently but briskly, buff the leather dry with a clean cotton towel. Let the leather air dry for another 15-30 minutes then apply the Leather Masters Protection Cream. Lighter colored leather is prone to dye transfer. I didn't see that issue in your photos but I recommend using the LM protectant on all light colored leather. It also will make the future cleaning of the leather much easier.
The Chemical is the liquid detergent. The Heat is achieved by using warm/tepid water. Agitation is done via the foam pad by working the foamy mix in small circles, and Time refers to the dwell time.
You want to wet the foam pad with the cleaning solution and squeeze it repeatedly to work up a lot of foam. Clean a small area (about a foot square) at a time. Let the soapy/foamy mix dwell for a minute or two but not dry then wipe up with a clean, white cotton towel. Inspect the towel after the wipe-up and notice the dirt removed. Repeat this cleaning and inspect the towel again. When the seat is clean, the towel will come up clean as well.
If after two or three passes the area is not cleaning as you expect, you can use a soft nylon brush to gently agitate the soiled area to loosen the dirt but don't aggressively scrub the leather. The leather surface coating is really a thin layer of paint and you want to let the CHAT method do the work without damaging the leather surface.
Once you have cleaned the leather go back and wipe it down with another wrung out cotton towel to insure complete removal of all traces of the cleaner. Next, gently but briskly, buff the leather dry with a clean cotton towel. Let the leather air dry for another 15-30 minutes then apply the Leather Masters Protection Cream. Lighter colored leather is prone to dye transfer. I didn't see that issue in your photos but I recommend using the LM protectant on all light colored leather. It also will make the future cleaning of the leather much easier.
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6od (05-25-18)