Leeladisky

Okay folks,

I just purchased the following Zymol Products listed in order of their recommended application:

1) Zymol HD Cleanse (surface prep)
2) Zymol Japon Wax
3) Zymol Detail Wax (for bumpers and plastic)

Many of you also suggest a Glaze of some sort? If so, which Glaze should I use before the wax that will NOT prevent the wax from bonding? Zymol doesn't specifically suggest any glaze before the wax, the above is the recommended order.

Any help would be appreciated! I know that Zymol is all natural and cannot bond to polymer based stuff, but any direction would be appreciated.

Lee

Daddy-O

I've not used Zymöl products, but have seen it used. My take-away was that it provides a beautiful, but very short-lived finish.

Zymöl HD-Cleanse web site claims: "removes light oxidization, moderate scratches, accumulated road film, tar, acid rain deposits, renewing the original lustre of your paint." It sounds like two other products that I use...Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion and P21S Gloss-enhancing Paintwork Cleanser.

They are cleaners that offer some of the benefits of a glaze (Oils and fillers).

I've never heard any manufacturers of Carnauba wax claim that their wax wouldn't bond to a glazed surface. If you're curious, spend the $10 for a bottle of Meguiar's #7 or #5...or a bottle of 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Test these products on one or two panels after HDCleanse and before waxing. Report your findings here, if you're so inclined.

Good luck.

RON430

Zymol waxes have no abrasives, like any good wax, so the HD cleanse is their version of a very fine hand polish to remove contaminants and light oxidation. It does a very good job, especially for a novice, but it does take a fair amount of elbow grease. Glaze can be a misleading term but after you have gotten down to smooth, fresh paint, using the HD cleanse, I like to use the Meguairs #7 glaze for a little more depth. If you want to make life a lot easier with the wax application, get some microfiber towels to remove haze. Zymol inevitably puts down a very thin layer, especially if you follow the directions and remove the haze very quickly. If you let the haze form very much it is a real problem to remove but the microfiber towels have a lot of "grab" and will get the haze off without too much aggravation. While microfiber is pretty good at not reintroducing scratches, it can happen, so try to let the towel do the grabbing and remove the haze, don't lean on it too much. I recently went back from Zaino to Zymol although I am using their Concours wax. I haven't posted my opinion yet because I haven't had it on long enough to have a worthwhile opinion, especially through some washings, but the depth of shine is spectacular ( I have the 2k1 very, very dark blue GS). It also was a little easier to work with than the Zaino in my opinion. Because Zymol goes on very thin, it is a good candidate for multiple layers. It isn't only Zaino that benefits from multiple layers.

Leeladisky

Ron 430,

Do you put a Glaze on before the Zymol wax? If so, which one do you use?

Lee

Daddy-O

Did someone say microfiber towels?

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Scroll down the page linked above for superb quality MF towels.

Leeladisky

All,

As Zymol is NOT a Polymer based product (it contains Carnuba, etc.), can I use a Meguire's #7 Gloss before the Zymol product???? I also intend on doing the following steps:

1) Cleaning the paint / clay, etc.
2) Meguire's #3 Gloss
3) Zymol Wax
4) Meguire's Teflon or Polymer based wax for a sealer

This is my plan. Should I follow the above plan? Change something? Reverse the steps for a better result?

HELP!

Lee

Daddy-O

1. Wash car. Clay if necessary. Check to see if clay is necessary by rubbing the paint ligtly with a baggie over your fingertips. Does the paint feel rough? If so, then clay...Then clean the paint as directed with Zymöl HDCleanse.

2. Meg's #3 is a Machine Glaze. Use Meg's #7 Showcar Glaze, or if in a high-humidity area, use #5 New Car Glaze. You Lexus should look spectacular now, but you must seal it.

3. Zymöl wax. Apply second layer 24-48 hrs later.

4. Stand back and smile.


5. No polymer will bond to a carnauba wax like Zymöl. You must apply a polymers on a clean finish. If you're interested into polymer finishes, return the Zymöl and take a look at Klasse, Zaino, Blackfire or Meguiar's #9000 series Medallion products

Leeladisky

Okay - how would this work?

1) Clay/Clean
2) Glaze
3) Polymer/Teflon
3) Zymol Wax

I've been told that waxing OVER a Polymer product shouldn't be a problem - it just provides extra protection... would this, in fact, work or is it a wax of time (all puns intended)?

Lee

Daddy-O

What do you mean by polymer/teflon?

Most polymers are part of a system that requires it's own proprietary prep stage.

Teflon?

As I mentioned in my last post: You must apply a polymers on a clean finish. If you're interested into polymer finishes, return the Zymöl and take a look at Klasse, Zaino, Blackfire or Meguiar's #9000 series Medallion products

RON430

Lee, sorry I didn't get back to you. As Daddy-O says, the Meguiar's glaze #7 is the showcar glaze and the one I use before I wax or apply protectant. I think you will find advocates of both polymer based systems and carnuba wax based systems and the debate will rage on for a long time. Don't know Daddy-O's opinion but I think you are trying for a "belt and suspenders" approach using both but I am not sure you will find that to be the case. If you have a polymer/Teflon product that you believe in, I would probably use it and skip putting the wax over it. And if you are a believer in wax, I would use it. There have been several posts here on surface preparation using machine or hand polishing and this is really where the surface appearance comes from if you are willing to expend the time (it is not trivial to learn and I don't recommend learning on your Lexus) or the money (and don't be surprised if you are not happy with a detailer's job either, there are good guys and not so good guys out there). But once the paint has been polished you are really adding protectant. I am not quite sure why I switched off the Zaino, it does a very good job and has been engineered to take a great deal of the finickyness out of the job. I have not done a side by side but my gut says that carnuba still has the edge for producing the mile deep gloss (especially on the dark colors). I may be crazy, there are some who readily say that I am, but the polymers seem to be prone to a very fine fogging, could be moisture getting into the polymer before it cures. I also have a few other issues like the famous sap incident. I expect that if I have the paint prepared and a good protectant that the worse that will happen is that if I have a contaminant on the surface, I can remove the protectant and the contaminant will come with it. Well, I can tell you that river birch sap makes an almost epoxy like bond with Zaino. On a car with carnuba, you bring out the liquid Dawn and the wax, and everything on top of it, generally goes away. I am not sure if I am explaining this well or if Daddy-O has anything to add but it still probably comes down to personal preference. I have a garage and am comfortable with cleaning and waxing the car so I am not looking for a "once a year" product (if such a thing exists). The Zymol Concours is a carnuba that you spread in your palms and let your body heat melt it and then spread it on the car (sounds strange but it is surprisingly quick) and then use those microfiber towels (jump on the group buy because if you get into this you will get a selection of these things, they are that good) to remove the haze. There is a noticeable difference in it after about a day, it seems to really harden up over 24 hours, something that Zaino really doesn't seem to do. Washing is another issue but the reason I want that hardness is to hold down the inevitable micrscratches and swirl marks that you get from washing. I know this is going to be a potential can or worms but if you have a favored polymer sealant, I would stick with it. If you have a favorite wax, I would probably stick with it. I am just uncomfortable trying to mix the two. Even though they might work on each other, I doubt you will get the full benefits of either adding up. I am sure everyone else will jump in with their opinions.

Daddy-O

Some people adds carnauba after a polymer, but it's not necessary. 1+1 doesn't always =2. If you're going polymer...stay with it, or remove it completely like RON430 and switch to carnauba.

If you are using polymer and add a carnauba layer, then you cannot apply any more polymer without removing the wax.

I prefer KISS method and I like waxing my car, especially with the products I currently use. I do it all by hand.

I did just order a Porter Cable 7424, though.

RON430

Daddy-O, great point about mucking up future polymer application with the conventional wax there. Wasn't sure why I was hesitant but I think you will be miles ahead of the game using one or the other and that mixing them together is going to be of questionable value if not cause headaches.

The detailer who passed away but taught me a great deal about detailing (went with my bimmer infatuation), probably would not like the 7424 because it would be too slow for him. But he had many years of experience and I have to say the 7424 is about all I can handle. It does a very good job and with time can rival virtually any pro job. Mean Gene and I have compared some notes and we both use the Griot machine polishes (three different grades) and I am pretty happy. I got some of the 3M swirl remover and it appears to be very agressive when used with a polisher so I pitched it, I have done this for a while but I need the safety factor of slightly less agressive cutting compounds. The Griot stuff may not be cheap but with the 7424, it does a really good job. Just not interested enough to try and get rid of all the orange peel, gawd I hate the new paints....