endo022

I'm new to this world so I thought I'd start out by asking for advice from the season pros here.

I got a 2013 Obisidian GS in December 2012. I've washed it a total of 2x (it's cold and rainy here in Seattle...cut me some slack LOL).

I'm rounding up supplies and equipment for a full detail job to get the GS ready for the nice sunny days that's coming up.

I noticed that there's a bunch of swirl marks on the paint most likely due to the dealer prep.
I've been reading up on all the different posts with the obsidian paint problems and how easy it scratches and swirls. Of all the different posts, everyone has a different way to going about treating and correcting the swirls. Some are detailers that do it for a living and some are DIYers.

My process (simplified):

Wash car with Chemical Guys Citrus Wash (to remove any layer of wax/polish that was applied by dealer)

Apply Compound to remove swirls.

Menzerna Fast Gloss Compound (FG-400)


Apply Polish to clean it up and shine it up.

Sonax Profiline Nano Polish 3/6


Apply Sealant to seal the gloss in.

Wolf's Hard Body


Equipment: I got a foam gun, two 5 gallon buckets and grit guards, sheepskin wash mitt and a Griot 6" Random Orbital Polisher (came with five 6.5" white pads), 2 waffle weave drying towels, sonax wheel cleaner

Other equipment that's needed or recommended:
Orange light cutting pads to apply the compound?
microfiber towels

Am I missing any other supplies/equipment to start this off on?

Thanks in advance for any tips/advice/recommendations!

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

Looks like you have done your research... just remember, begin with the LEAST AGGRESSIVE METHOD FIRST. So do a test spot with the Sonax 3/6 and polishing pad and see what the results are... if the car is in good shape, there is a chance you will not need to use FG400 at all.

It looks like all you have are white pads? You may need finer finishing pads to finish down perfectly on that soft paint without micromarring. I would suggest picking up some black, blue, and/or crimson pads for finishing. As you mentioned, you may need more aggressive pads for compounding IF you even need to compound. FG400 + White pads is a nice combo, but if you want better defect removal you may need orange light cutting pads or even MF cutting pads... however I find it hard to believe that such a new car would be trashed enough to need to go that aggressive. Only you can make that decision, since you are the one looking at it.

Do not skimp on the quality of your MF towels. Purchase the expensive ones with silk lined edges. WIth paint as soft as Obsidian Black, ANY cheap MF towel from your average auto parts store will most likely mar the paint. Trust me on this.

Be patient, and the results will be fantastic. Detailing is like any other skill... it comes with practice and patience. Don't rush, take your time, and learn what works for you. We'd love to see before and after pics too!!

Good luck - let me know if you've got any other questions.
-Zach

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

Get a bunch of the LC orange, crimson (or black) pads. It's all you will need on that paint.

And just a word of advice, don't try to get every product on the market just to test it out. It's a huge waste of money. Find something that works and stick to it.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

This is good advice. Find what works and what you like and stick to it. Everyone has there own thing.

zapa

I would recommend that you clay bar the car also. You should pick up a few clay bars and a quick detailer to use as a lubricant or a kit like this one. This step should be done after you wash the car and before you begin to polish.

http://www.autogeek.net/woclco.html

If you are going to be picking up some more stuff make sure you pick up some ironx wheel cleaner. It is by far the best wheel cleaner I have used.

http://www.autogeek.net/ironx-paint-cleaner.html

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

Man, how could anyone not have picked up that he left claying off the list? Good call.


General Steps needed for full correction detail:
-Clean Wheels and Tires
-Wash car (preferably with Citrus wash diluted to strip remaining LSP)
-Dry Car (doesn't have to be perfect, as you are going to clay right after washing)
-Decontaminate the paint (most often done with detailing clay... you may also choose to use a product like Iron X prior to claying)
-Tape off any/all trim, emblems, sharp edges, etc that have potential to be damaged during polishing
-Perform a test spot to determine the least aggressive process that will allow you to achieve your desired results
-Carry out the process you had done on your test spot to correct the entire car (remember to clean your pad on the fly often, switching to a completely new pad when needed. Take your time, work slow, use slow arm speed and work in small enough areas)
-IPA wipe down or Wash the Car again to remove any remaining polishing residue and oils (OPTIONAL STEP)
-Apply Glaze (OPTIONAL STEP)
-Apply Sealant (typically let it cure for a while. I use this curing time to apply tire shine and polish exhaust tips)
-Apply Wax (optional if applying sealant, however highly recommended to top the sealant with a layer of wax! Just my opinions)

... Think that just about covers the basics

Have fun! Post some before/during/after pics!

zapa

^^^^ that order is just about the same as I would have told you.

endo022

Thanks for all the advice.

I'll try using the polish first to see if it'll take out the swirls before going for the compound.

What's an IPA wipe down?

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

IPA = Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol). It is used to strip the paint of any remaining polish residue or oils that are left on the surface. Simply mix it with water in a spray bottle and then spray the paint, and wipe with a soft MF towel. This is a step that is optional. It is important to dilute the IPA so that it is not strong enough to damage the paint - 13% IPA to water is the recommended ratio.

Hope that helps.
-Zach

1111GS

If I were you, I would find a trusted detail shop in your area (ask around here most likely someone will point you to a right place) stop by the place to check out what types of services they offer and types of cars go there, have them correct the paint for you (you may just need stage I), apply 22PLE or OC. Then you can do the maintenance afterward.

PeachyDiva

Got mine on Sunday.....not happy with the dealer prep. I actually had them send it back to do it again, that was a mistake!!
I was thinking of finding a detail shop here in Bellevue and just doing the maintenance afterward.
There is a shop close to the dealers here in Bellevue, they see some nice cars...might check them out

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

NEVER let the dealer touch your car... the correct "dealer prep" is to say "If you have any of your guys touch my car, I will not accept it." It will save you time, money, and headaches later if they simply just don't touch your car.

User 41924

I have to say, that the dealership where I've bought our last 3 cars, does a pretty decent job of prep. I was surprised and impressed! That said, I picked it up on a Thursday night, and did a full paint detail on Saturday. The clay step was almost useless, as they had already cleaned the paint very well. A good buffing and sealer did make it look and feel better, but the real value was that I knew I had used quality product and had a good starting point for future care.

endo022

Let me know how it goes PeachyDiva...I would definitely be interested in hearing which shop you'll be taking it to.

What color did you get

larryinWA

I've read a couple of posts on CL about detailers in bellevue, but I plan to do my own, so I haven't sought them out.