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Exterior Coating: GTechniq or 22PLE

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Old 06-19-13, 11:17 AM
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SeanGTS
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Default Exterior Coating: GTechniq or 22PLE

Found a detailer for my car in WA, he is suggesting that I use the GTechniq product line as an exterior coating. Does anyone have any experience with it? Is it better/worse than the 22ple coating?

He says it should last about 2 years.... This is on an obsidian ISF.
Old 06-19-13, 12:19 PM
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zmcgovern4
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Which GTechniq product are you specifically referring to? GTechniq coatings are not nearly as popular as the other "major" coatings - ie: OptiCoat 2.0, 22ple, and CQuartz. It is somewhat difficult to find any reviews on their coatings because not many people use them.

I have had 22ple on my car for a year now and love it, it has similar durability claims to what you say the GTechniq is supposed to have (2 years). If you want something longer lasting, OptiCoat is a great choice, too.
Old 06-19-13, 01:01 PM
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SeanGTS
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I'm not sure, I thought he said C1.

How much does the 22ple cost? Does to cover the glass and wheels as well?
Old 06-19-13, 08:44 PM
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GTechniq is serious business. The reason it is not popular in the U.S is because not alot of people stock it here, so it's not as available. They have a "installer" program where you can become a qualified personnel to be a licensed installer with them. Their product is very expensive, but it's well worth the money from what I hear. It's very popular in Europe and generally overseas. There's alot of info on it on detailingworld.uk
From what I heard, their glass coating is pretty much the best on the market.

We have some of their coatings at the shop that we just got in, but we have yet to experiment with it.

- Roman
Old 06-20-13, 05:02 PM
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larryinWA
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22ple is not expensive. 2 coats would be less than $100.
Old 06-20-13, 08:38 PM
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97-SC300
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Originally Posted by SeanGTS
Does to cover the glass and wheels as well?
Yes, 22PLE can be applied to anything. They have a few different coatings with the bottles having different labels. I believe one is a glass specific coating, one is a paint coating, and one for trim and rubber.

Technically, they are all "glass" coatings because they are made up of glass particles. We had a bottle cap explode on one of the 22PLE bottles maybe because it was kept in a hot environment during a mobile job when left in the car for several hours), but most of it crystallized inside and whatever leaked out also crystallized. We also toss the applicators away after use because they harden the next day. That alone tells you that this stuff isn't just marketing BS, but actual physical proof that it does what they claim. I honestly don't see the difference in their coatings, maybe the formula is somewhat tweaked a bit for glass, paint, and trim, but working with all three is the same. I've also witnessed the 22PLE has filling properties. I used it on some powder coated gloss black wheels which were pretty badly swirled up (nothing deep, but very abundant), and after application a noticeable amount of the swirls were filled in.

Originally Posted by larryinWA
22ple is not expensive. 2 coats would be less than $100.
To the average person, that is very expensive. Definitely need to market to the right client as most people haven't got a clue what these coatings are.
Old 06-20-13, 08:49 PM
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larryinWA
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Could be. I was comparing this to the $600 the dealer wanted me to pay for a polish & sealant, that would probably last 6 months. Seems like a bargain to me.
Old 06-21-13, 06:13 AM
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97-SC300
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Yes if you can apply the coating yourself that is cheaper than paying a dealership to do god knows what. All of the dealer cars we work on look completely destroyed. There literally has not been one that wasn't plagued with holograms, micromarring, and every other defect you can inflict in the paint when you give a rotary to someone who hasn't got a clue how to use it. But most high end detailers will not even agree to apply 22ple without first doing at least one step correction.... And by than you are looking at close to or well over that 600 price that dealerships charge.
Old 06-21-13, 07:12 AM
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larryinWA
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I did it myself. I probably spent $600, but now have a DA, MF towels, lots of cleaning and polishing supplies and some good experience. I'll do better next time, but it looks better than it did with 18 miles on it, from the dealer. I also made the mistake of letting the dealer wash it at the 1,000 mile check. That won't happen again. I need a big "Do Not Wash" sign to hang on the mirror for the 5,000 mile service next week. It would be fun to learn polishing from a pro. I do OK, but would like to be better at it.
Old 06-21-13, 07:53 AM
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97-SC300
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Originally Posted by larryinWA
I did it myself. I probably spent $600, but now have a DA, MF towels, lots of cleaning and polishing supplies and some good experience. I'll do better next time, but it looks better than it did with 18 miles on it, from the dealer. I also made the mistake of letting the dealer wash it at the 1,000 mile check. That won't happen again. I need a big "Do Not Wash" sign to hang on the mirror for the 5,000 mile service next week. It would be fun to learn polishing from a pro. I do OK, but would like to be better at it.
It takes a good amount of practice to really get good at polishing. You're not going to master (even a PC) from polishing one or two cars because there are too many factors involved from different paint systems, to the wide variety of polishes. What you should really be focused on is keeping the pad flat, the amount of pressure you use at the beginning, middle, and finishing portion of every pass, and the speeds you work with. Also, if you have a rotary or a Flex DA,, around curved surfaces (curvy portions of hoods, curvy rear section on exotic cars, you will need to understand which way your buffer is spinning, and be aware of the "cutting edge" so that you know which direction to start moving the machine in and which direction to move the machine towards the end of the pass so that you are not cutting anymore, but refining the first few passes you've made. This is the part that really has a bit of a learning curve and may not even be obvious if you are making mistakes, but on some cars like a soft Jet Black, you will see all your mistakes if you aren't familiar with the cutting edge, direction of the rotation, and keeping the pad flat. It's not too difficult, but definitely takes some practice.
Old 06-21-13, 05:33 PM
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haven't had any experience with G Techniq, but i have had 22PLE on my paint, 22PLE is not as durable as i thought and lasts 24 months if that. i've switched to OC 2.0, much much better coating IMO and it is permanent. i've read good reviews on the G Techniq as well as watched a couple of vids, but it's life span is supposedly 24 months. i was tempted but chose the OC instead, maybe i'll slap a coat of the G Techniq on the wife's RX.
Old 06-21-13, 07:00 PM
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97-SC300
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Originally Posted by sydtoosic
haven't had any experience with G Techniq, but i have had 22PLE on my paint, 22PLE is not as durable as i thought and lasts 24 months if that. i've switched to OC 2.0, much much better coating IMO and it is permanent. i've read good reviews on the G Techniq as well as watched a couple of vids, but it's life span is supposedly 24 months. i was tempted but chose the OC instead, maybe i'll slap a coat of the G Techniq on the wife's RX.
Opti Coat is definitely in a different class. In a class of it's own. I don't know any other coating that has OC durability. OC Pro is even better than OC 2.0

If you got 24 month durability out of 22PLE, than that is awesome! I thought the claimed durability was right around that mark or slightly less, and usually coatings and sealants wear out sooner than their hyped up to be. If it says it will last 24 months, I usually take that with a grain of salt and perceive those claims to only be achieved under ideal conditions, and we do not live in an ideal world.
Old 06-21-13, 09:18 PM
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sydtoosic
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i totally agree... this world is far from ideal. OC has surpassed my expectations, i have found no diminishing factors or questionable integrity of the coating... it's still going strong and i'm washing and maintaining exclusively with ONRWW, OOC, OCW, OPC, this is my DD. i'm very impressed so far. have to look into the OC PRO... was that the coating for pro detailers only, that was not available for the public?
Old 06-22-13, 10:55 AM
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97-SC300
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Originally Posted by sydtoosic
i totally agree... this world is far from ideal. OC has surpassed my expectations, i have found no diminishing factors or questionable integrity of the coating... it's still going strong and i'm washing and maintaining exclusively with ONRWW, OOC, OCW, OPC, this is my DD. i'm very impressed so far. have to look into the OC PRO... was that the coating for pro detailers only, that was not available for the public?
Yes, you need to be a business to get it. Google Opti-Guard, it's the same product.

There is a waiver you need to sign too before they sell it to you. It's alot more difficult to work with than OC 2.0.
Old 06-22-13, 04:14 PM
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sydtoosic
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Originally Posted by 97-SC300
Yes, you need to be a business to get it. Google Opti-Guard, it's the same product.

There is a waiver you need to sign too before they sell it to you. It's alot more difficult to work with than OC 2.0.
i figured as much... the OC Pro doesn't allow alot of work time as opposed to the public-friendly OC 2.0. i'm still willing to give it a try. will the Pro version adhere to the OC 2.0 or will it have to be removed before the Pro version is applied?


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