White spots after waxing
10-17-13, 11:37 AM
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
White spots after waxing
Hey guys,
I usually wax my car with turtle black box wax but I ran out of the stuff so i switched over to mothers synthetic wax because ive had some good experiences with it on former cars. (it was cheaper too but former cars weren't black) Car looked great after I waxed it but now a few days later I am getting a bunch of white spots all over the hood and body. Logically thinking, It looks like the wax filled in some of the uneven spots on the paint and dried up so now its kind of impossible to get out. Does anyone have any input on how to fix/also even up my paint.
going outside to take pic to post now
Some of the 2nd picture is dust from where I work but you can see some of the white spots in what im talking about
I usually wax my car with turtle black box wax but I ran out of the stuff so i switched over to mothers synthetic wax because ive had some good experiences with it on former cars. (it was cheaper too but former cars weren't black) Car looked great after I waxed it but now a few days later I am getting a bunch of white spots all over the hood and body. Logically thinking, It looks like the wax filled in some of the uneven spots on the paint and dried up so now its kind of impossible to get out. Does anyone have any input on how to fix/also even up my paint.
going outside to take pic to post now
Some of the 2nd picture is dust from where I work but you can see some of the white spots in what im talking about
Last edited by NYKnick101; 10-17-13 at 11:46 AM.
10-17-13, 11:59 AM
#2
Looking at this pic...
... your paint needs a lot of work.
When you look at your vehicle in the sun, you should see pure reflections without any (or many) scratches, swirls, or haze.
A proper paint correction would help to remove all of those swirl marks, scratches, water spots, and other surface defects.
^A true professional can achieve fantastic results with machine polishing and could make your paint look like new again.
If you want the ultimate appearance and protection, I would advise you to invest in a paint coating as well. A coating like CQuartz Finest will greatly enhance your vehicle's appearance (after it has been properly polished) and will provide years of protection so you will not have to worry about waxing! It also makes it much easier to wash and dry your vehicle. More info and a map of installers in your area can be found on www.CQFinest.com
Let me know if you've got any questions
-Zach
When you look at your vehicle in the sun, you should see pure reflections without any (or many) scratches, swirls, or haze.
A proper paint correction would help to remove all of those swirl marks, scratches, water spots, and other surface defects.
^A true professional can achieve fantastic results with machine polishing and could make your paint look like new again.
If you want the ultimate appearance and protection, I would advise you to invest in a paint coating as well. A coating like CQuartz Finest will greatly enhance your vehicle's appearance (after it has been properly polished) and will provide years of protection so you will not have to worry about waxing! It also makes it much easier to wash and dry your vehicle. More info and a map of installers in your area can be found on www.CQFinest.com
Let me know if you've got any questions
-Zach
10-17-13, 12:14 PM
#4
That would be my recommendation... unless you feel up to a big job and want to invest several hundred dollars in tools and products. It is not too hard to learn, but it takes a decent investment up front to obtain all of the necessary equipment and products.
*Just a note: A cheap detailer is usually a poor detailer. Just keep that in mind when shopping around. I would highly suggest picking a professional from the map on the www.CQFinest.com website, or even www.DetailersDomain.com since you may be in that general area.
*Just a note: A cheap detailer is usually a poor detailer. Just keep that in mind when shopping around. I would highly suggest picking a professional from the map on the www.CQFinest.com website, or even www.DetailersDomain.com since you may be in that general area.
10-18-13, 11:44 AM
#5
DD ( detailers domain ) FTW... 55 oak st., Norwood NJ. Phil is who you'd want to talk to, great guy and even greater detailer. all my Lexus vehicles went to DD. 201-660-7010
10-18-13, 03:21 PM
#7
What have you tried? You might try a IPA wipe down or a solvent like DuPont Prepsol. This should dissolve the wax/sealant.
This is the result of product getting into the small rock chips and drying white. If you reseal,use a sealant that specifically states that it doesn't dry white.
This is the result of product getting into the small rock chips and drying white. If you reseal,use a sealant that specifically states that it doesn't dry white.
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10-18-13, 10:33 PM
#8
Any of the WOWA (wipe-on, walk away) sealants, such as Opti-Seal will dry clear. They have to, since you don't buff them off.
10-19-13, 03:52 PM
#9
An OTC sealant to consider is Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax.
Why I like it...
Good looks and remarkably long lasting too. Goes on easy and comes off even easier. Leaves the paint very slick so dirt releases easily. Applies in a very thin coat so the bottle lasts a long time. It doesn't dry white. It can be used in direct sunlight. It is very useful on exterior vinyl trim leaving a nice sheen that doesn't run in the rain. It leaves a Rain-X effect on glass with zero streaking. It is available almost everywhere for under $20.
Another alternative would be coatings. Of course, a full polish would be needed first. The coating will fill the rock chips somewhat and these coatings also dry clear.
Why I like it...
Good looks and remarkably long lasting too. Goes on easy and comes off even easier. Leaves the paint very slick so dirt releases easily. Applies in a very thin coat so the bottle lasts a long time. It doesn't dry white. It can be used in direct sunlight. It is very useful on exterior vinyl trim leaving a nice sheen that doesn't run in the rain. It leaves a Rain-X effect on glass with zero streaking. It is available almost everywhere for under $20.
Another alternative would be coatings. Of course, a full polish would be needed first. The coating will fill the rock chips somewhat and these coatings also dry clear.
10-20-13, 11:05 AM
#10
Lexus Fanatic
It looks like you need to clay your finish and then give it a good polish or have a detailer give it a polish. If you just added wax you probably want to remove the wax with a degreasing liquid soap/or diluted alcohol before you clay/polish. Most likely excess wax is catching on stuck on particles/sap on your finish and you are seeing dried wax that was not removed when adding it and wiping it off.
10-21-13, 10:31 AM
#11
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
thanks everyone, I havent done it yet from a busy weekend. I want to take it to a detailer but IDK if i should do it now or wait til after the winter. I know I want to do it for sure though. I'm gonna try the DIY options you all recommended though
10-21-13, 11:07 AM
#12
Here is what I saw in your pics and what I would recommend to remedy all of the issues...
- The white spots: As mentioned, these are simply from dried product. You can remove wax residue with a diluted isopropyl alcohol solution and a microfiber towel. This will degrade or remove any existing wax on the surface.
- Contamination: Overtime, contaminates will bond to your paint and will not come off with standard washing. While I technically cannot "see" this, I would assume your paint needs to be decontaminated. This can be done with a clay bar. Detailing clay works to safely remove these bonded particles and leave a smooth, clean surface behind. This process also degrades any wax on the surface. This process is typically needed once or twice a year.
- Very dull paint: Your paint shows the usual signs of being a daily driven vehicle. Swirls, scratches, water spots, etc are all easily visible in the 2 photos you posted above. These defects are easily reduced/removed with proper machine polishing.
Here is the basic outline of the process that you would need to follow to restore your paint to a nice, clean, glossy finish.
- Clean wheels and tires (usually 30-60 minutes depending on how well maintained your wheels and tires are)
- Thoroughly wash paint (I typically spend 30-60 minutes on this type of very thorough pre-polishing wash)
- Decontaminate Paint with detailing clay (if your car has never been clayed, this will take 2+ hours)
- Machine Polish (you may need 2 polishing steps for the best results, this step can easily take 4-8 hours... or more)
- Wash the vehicle again to remove any dust and polish remaining on the surface (usually 20-30 minutes)
- Wipe the vehicle down with diluted IPA to remove any remaining polishing oils (10-15 minutes)
- Apply sealant to provide several months of protection (20 minutes)
- Finish Fine details like polishing exhaust tips, dressing tires, dressing trim, cleaning glass, etc etc (time varies)
I would quote someone ~8-9 hours for a one-stage correction process on a 2IS (or other standard sedan) and 12-13 hours for a 2 stage correction process... you can surely do all of this on your own, but as I already mentioned you will spend hundreds on the proper tools and products. This is a very worthwhile investment if you plan on maintaining your cars yourself for many years. You will find that most cars can benefit from a light polish every year or two (assuming they are properly maintained in between polishing), so if you have your own equipment it will save you money in the long run.
On the other hand, it is much easier to set up a maintenance routine with a reputable professional and know your vehicle is in good hands and will look amazing without any work required from you.
Let me know if you've got any other questions
-Zach
- The white spots: As mentioned, these are simply from dried product. You can remove wax residue with a diluted isopropyl alcohol solution and a microfiber towel. This will degrade or remove any existing wax on the surface.
- Contamination: Overtime, contaminates will bond to your paint and will not come off with standard washing. While I technically cannot "see" this, I would assume your paint needs to be decontaminated. This can be done with a clay bar. Detailing clay works to safely remove these bonded particles and leave a smooth, clean surface behind. This process also degrades any wax on the surface. This process is typically needed once or twice a year.
- Very dull paint: Your paint shows the usual signs of being a daily driven vehicle. Swirls, scratches, water spots, etc are all easily visible in the 2 photos you posted above. These defects are easily reduced/removed with proper machine polishing.
Here is the basic outline of the process that you would need to follow to restore your paint to a nice, clean, glossy finish.
- Clean wheels and tires (usually 30-60 minutes depending on how well maintained your wheels and tires are)
- Thoroughly wash paint (I typically spend 30-60 minutes on this type of very thorough pre-polishing wash)
- Decontaminate Paint with detailing clay (if your car has never been clayed, this will take 2+ hours)
- Machine Polish (you may need 2 polishing steps for the best results, this step can easily take 4-8 hours... or more)
- Wash the vehicle again to remove any dust and polish remaining on the surface (usually 20-30 minutes)
- Wipe the vehicle down with diluted IPA to remove any remaining polishing oils (10-15 minutes)
- Apply sealant to provide several months of protection (20 minutes)
- Finish Fine details like polishing exhaust tips, dressing tires, dressing trim, cleaning glass, etc etc (time varies)
I would quote someone ~8-9 hours for a one-stage correction process on a 2IS (or other standard sedan) and 12-13 hours for a 2 stage correction process... you can surely do all of this on your own, but as I already mentioned you will spend hundreds on the proper tools and products. This is a very worthwhile investment if you plan on maintaining your cars yourself for many years. You will find that most cars can benefit from a light polish every year or two (assuming they are properly maintained in between polishing), so if you have your own equipment it will save you money in the long run.
On the other hand, it is much easier to set up a maintenance routine with a reputable professional and know your vehicle is in good hands and will look amazing without any work required from you.
Let me know if you've got any other questions
-Zach
10-09-21, 12:41 AM
#13
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Here is what I saw in your pics and what I would recommend to remedy all of the issues...
- The white spots: As mentioned, these are simply from dried product. You can remove wax residue with a diluted isopropyl alcohol solution and a microfiber towel. This will degrade or remove any existing wax on the surface.
- Contamination: Overtime, contaminates will bond to your paint and will not come off with standard washing. While I technically cannot "see" this, I would assume your paint needs to be decontaminated. This can be done with a clay bar. Detailing clay works to safely remove these bonded particles and leave a smooth, clean surface behind. This process also degrades any wax on the surface. This process is typically needed once or twice a year.
- Very dull paint: Your paint shows the usual signs of being a daily driven vehicle. Swirls, scratches, water spots, etc are all easily visible in the 2 photos you posted above. These defects are easily reduced/removed with proper machine polishing.
Here is the basic outline of the process that you would need to follow to restore your paint to a nice, clean, glossy finish.
- Clean wheels and tires (usually 30-60 minutes depending on how well maintained your wheels and tires are)
- Thoroughly wash paint (I typically spend 30-60 minutes on this type of very thorough pre-polishing wash)
- Decontaminate Paint with detailing clay (if your car has never been clayed, this will take 2+ hours)
- Machine Polish (you may need 2 polishing steps for the best results, this step can easily take 4-8 hours... or more)
- Wash the vehicle again to remove any dust and polish remaining on the surface (usually 20-30 minutes)
- Wipe the vehicle down with diluted IPA to remove any remaining polishing oils (10-15 minutes)
- Apply sealant to provide several months of protection (20 minutes)
- Finish Fine details like polishing exhaust tips, dressing tires, dressing trim, cleaning glass, etc etc (time varies)
I would quote someone ~8-9 hours for a one-stage correction process on a 2IS (or other standard sedan) and 12-13 hours for a 2 stage correction process... you can surely do all of this on your own, but as I already mentioned you will spend hundreds on the proper tools and products. This is a very worthwhile investment if you plan on maintaining your cars yourself for many years. You will find that most cars can benefit from a light polish every year or two (assuming they are properly maintained in between polishing), so if you have your own equipment it will save you money in the long run.
On the other hand, it is much easier to set up a maintenance routine with a reputable professional and know your vehicle is in good hands and will look amazing without any work required from you.
Let me know if you've got any other questions
-Zach
- The white spots: As mentioned, these are simply from dried product. You can remove wax residue with a diluted isopropyl alcohol solution and a microfiber towel. This will degrade or remove any existing wax on the surface.
- Contamination: Overtime, contaminates will bond to your paint and will not come off with standard washing. While I technically cannot "see" this, I would assume your paint needs to be decontaminated. This can be done with a clay bar. Detailing clay works to safely remove these bonded particles and leave a smooth, clean surface behind. This process also degrades any wax on the surface. This process is typically needed once or twice a year.
- Very dull paint: Your paint shows the usual signs of being a daily driven vehicle. Swirls, scratches, water spots, etc are all easily visible in the 2 photos you posted above. These defects are easily reduced/removed with proper machine polishing.
Here is the basic outline of the process that you would need to follow to restore your paint to a nice, clean, glossy finish.
- Clean wheels and tires (usually 30-60 minutes depending on how well maintained your wheels and tires are)
- Thoroughly wash paint (I typically spend 30-60 minutes on this type of very thorough pre-polishing wash)
- Decontaminate Paint with detailing clay (if your car has never been clayed, this will take 2+ hours)
- Machine Polish (you may need 2 polishing steps for the best results, this step can easily take 4-8 hours... or more)
- Wash the vehicle again to remove any dust and polish remaining on the surface (usually 20-30 minutes)
- Wipe the vehicle down with diluted IPA to remove any remaining polishing oils (10-15 minutes)
- Apply sealant to provide several months of protection (20 minutes)
- Finish Fine details like polishing exhaust tips, dressing tires, dressing trim, cleaning glass, etc etc (time varies)
I would quote someone ~8-9 hours for a one-stage correction process on a 2IS (or other standard sedan) and 12-13 hours for a 2 stage correction process... you can surely do all of this on your own, but as I already mentioned you will spend hundreds on the proper tools and products. This is a very worthwhile investment if you plan on maintaining your cars yourself for many years. You will find that most cars can benefit from a light polish every year or two (assuming they are properly maintained in between polishing), so if you have your own equipment it will save you money in the long run.
On the other hand, it is much easier to set up a maintenance routine with a reputable professional and know your vehicle is in good hands and will look amazing without any work required from you.
Let me know if you've got any other questions
-Zach
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