Recommendation on polish and sealant
10-27-13, 09:10 AM
#1
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Recommendation on polish and sealant
Looking for a budget polish and seal.
Currently I'm using Coli #845 wax. But haven't done a polish or seal.
Any good budget recommendations will be gladly appreciated!
Currently I'm using Coli #845 wax. But haven't done a polish or seal.
Any good budget recommendations will be gladly appreciated!
10-27-13, 11:24 AM
#2
I have Blackfire SRC Polish and am very happy with it. What are you using as a buffer? Collinite is a great wax, I use it myself also. As far as sealant go i'd say go with Sonax Polymer Net Shield. Easy to apply and about 4-6 months protection from what i've seen.
10-27-13, 05:46 PM
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"Sealing" is putting a layer of wax, sealant, or coating on your paint.
So technically, by putting 845 on your car, you actually have been sealing it.
There are a million different polishes to choose from ranging from SMAT to DAT technologies.
The bigger question is, are you doing it by hand or with a machine polisher? What color is the paint and what is your end goal with it? Light swirl removal or full correction? Answers to those questions will dictate which products and tool you need.
So technically, by putting 845 on your car, you actually have been sealing it.
There are a million different polishes to choose from ranging from SMAT to DAT technologies.
The bigger question is, are you doing it by hand or with a machine polisher? What color is the paint and what is your end goal with it? Light swirl removal or full correction? Answers to those questions will dictate which products and tool you need.
10-28-13, 06:49 AM
#4
"Sealing" is putting a layer of wax, sealant, or coating on your paint.
So technically, by putting 845 on your car, you actually have been sealing it.
There are a million different polishes to choose from ranging from SMAT to DAT technologies.
The bigger question is, are you doing it by hand or with a machine polisher? What color is the paint and what is your end goal with it? Light swirl removal or full correction? Answers to those questions will dictate which products and tool you need.
So technically, by putting 845 on your car, you actually have been sealing it.
There are a million different polishes to choose from ranging from SMAT to DAT technologies.
The bigger question is, are you doing it by hand or with a machine polisher? What color is the paint and what is your end goal with it? Light swirl removal or full correction? Answers to those questions will dictate which products and tool you need.
Here is an article explaining protection on your paint, wax vs. sealant, etc etc. Please check it out.
Let's also make sure you fully understand what "polishing" entails.
A polish is a liquid that contains fine abrasive particles that are designed to remove a fine remove a very fine layer of paint in order to level the surface and produce a nice, glossy finish. This is done in order to remove fine surface defects that reside in your clear coat. See image below.
A polishing process is done with the goal to remove the majority of the light swirls or holograms that create a dull appearance.
Deeper defects will require more aggressive products commonly referred to as "compounds" which must then be followed with a polishing process.
With all of that in mind, you don't want to polish your car if you don't have swirl marks - you would be accomplishing nothing.
Since your vehicle is new, you very well may have swirls, scratches, holograms, etc from the poor dealership prep. If not, you are lucky, and you should take great caution in using proper washing and drying methods to reduce swirls in your paint. It is a well known fact in the detailing world that the majority of swirl marks come from improper washing and drying.
10-28-13, 10:43 AM
#5
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Collinite 845
If you're applying 845, you are technically sealing it. If you want a deeper shine I'd go with a hand glaze (non wax) and then finish up with the 845. It goes on much easier when you prep it like that. I buy 845 on http://macteconline.net as they have pretty good pricing and fast shipping. The shipping was free as well.
10-28-13, 12:17 PM
#6
^Exactly what he said.
Here is an article explaining protection on your paint, wax vs. sealant, etc etc. Please check it out.
Let's also make sure you fully understand what "polishing" entails.
A polish is a liquid that contains fine abrasive particles that are designed to remove a fine remove a very fine layer of paint in order to level the surface and produce a nice, glossy finish. This is done in order to remove fine surface defects that reside in your clear coat. See image below.
A polishing process is done with the goal to remove the majority of the light swirls or holograms that create a dull appearance.
Deeper defects will require more aggressive products commonly referred to as "compounds" which must then be followed with a polishing process.
With all of that in mind, you don't want to polish your car if you don't have swirl marks - you would be accomplishing nothing.
Since your vehicle is new, you very well may have swirls, scratches, holograms, etc from the poor dealership prep. If not, you are lucky, and you should take great caution in using proper washing and drying methods to reduce swirls in your paint. It is a well known fact in the detailing world that the majority of swirl marks come from improper washing and drying.
Here is an article explaining protection on your paint, wax vs. sealant, etc etc. Please check it out.
Let's also make sure you fully understand what "polishing" entails.
A polish is a liquid that contains fine abrasive particles that are designed to remove a fine remove a very fine layer of paint in order to level the surface and produce a nice, glossy finish. This is done in order to remove fine surface defects that reside in your clear coat. See image below.
A polishing process is done with the goal to remove the majority of the light swirls or holograms that create a dull appearance.
Deeper defects will require more aggressive products commonly referred to as "compounds" which must then be followed with a polishing process.
With all of that in mind, you don't want to polish your car if you don't have swirl marks - you would be accomplishing nothing.
Since your vehicle is new, you very well may have swirls, scratches, holograms, etc from the poor dealership prep. If not, you are lucky, and you should take great caution in using proper washing and drying methods to reduce swirls in your paint. It is a well known fact in the detailing world that the majority of swirl marks come from improper washing and drying.
10-29-13, 03:26 AM
#7
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Good information.
I have an Ultra White 3IS. I'm looking to get this car as glossy as possible.
I recently purchased BF Wet Diamond Sealant. I hope this will make the white POP. --Thoughts on BF WD? How about Carpro Reload?(For a white car, what do you think will be better out of the two?)
I plan on doing a hand polish as I do not have a buffer or will be planning to buy one.
I have an Ultra White 3IS. I'm looking to get this car as glossy as possible.
I recently purchased BF Wet Diamond Sealant. I hope this will make the white POP. --Thoughts on BF WD? How about Carpro Reload?(For a white car, what do you think will be better out of the two?)
I plan on doing a hand polish as I do not have a buffer or will be planning to buy one.
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10-29-13, 08:14 AM
#8
Good information.
I have an Ultra White 3IS. I'm looking to get this car as glossy as possible.
I recently purchased BF Wet Diamond Sealant. I hope this will make the white POP. --Thoughts on BF WD? How about Carpro Reload?(For a white car, what do you think will be better out of the two?)
I plan on doing a hand polish as I do not have a buffer or will be planning to buy one.
I have an Ultra White 3IS. I'm looking to get this car as glossy as possible.
I recently purchased BF Wet Diamond Sealant. I hope this will make the white POP. --Thoughts on BF WD? How about Carpro Reload?(For a white car, what do you think will be better out of the two?)
I plan on doing a hand polish as I do not have a buffer or will be planning to buy one.
With that being said, BFWD has a good reputation for darker cars - I've personally never used it on a white car, but I have had great results with CG BlackLight (another product used often on dark paint) on white cars.
CarPro ReLoad is a fantastic inorganic spray sealant that works well as a coating topper or boost in protection. It beads and sheets very well (like a coating) and is incredibly easy to apply. I just applied some to my vehicle last week to add some protection on top of my coating for the upcoming winter. I use ReLoad every month or two.
10-29-13, 11:53 PM
#9
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Definitely will pick up a polish 
After using Colinite #845 today, as my first wax job. Goodness, it took me a while, more than 1 1/2 hour to do the whole car. i
It seems quite hard to apply on an applicator pad, as i'm not sure how thin is thin to apply.(especially when i cannot distinguish if it's hazed or not)
Wax question: Is it bad to leave the wax on for MORE than 1 hour before buffing it off? Or will that let the wax sit longer and somehow absorb better?
After using Colinite #845 today, as my first wax job. Goodness, it took me a while, more than 1 1/2 hour to do the whole car. i
It seems quite hard to apply on an applicator pad, as i'm not sure how thin is thin to apply.(especially when i cannot distinguish if it's hazed or not)
Wax question: Is it bad to leave the wax on for MORE than 1 hour before buffing it off? Or will that let the wax sit longer and somehow absorb better?
10-30-13, 06:09 AM
#10
Definitely will pick up a polish
After using Colinite #845 today, as my first wax job. Goodness, it took me a while, more than 1 1/2 hour to do the whole car. i
It seems quite hard to apply on an applicator pad, as i'm not sure how thin is thin to apply.(especially when i cannot distinguish if it's hazed or not)
After using Colinite #845 today, as my first wax job. Goodness, it took me a while, more than 1 1/2 hour to do the whole car. i
It seems quite hard to apply on an applicator pad, as i'm not sure how thin is thin to apply.(especially when i cannot distinguish if it's hazed or not)
Collinite 845 can be finicky depending on your ambient conditions... check this article out to find where you went wrong. Collinite #845: The Definitive How-To Guide For This Legendary Wax
Some waxes are WOWO (wipe on, wipe off) meaning you apply the wax to a small area and then immediately remove it. If you do not, these types of waxes can be VERY difficult to remove.
Other waxes state it is best to allow the wax to dry to a haze. This drying time can vary depending on ambient conditions so it is best to learn how to check if the wax is dry using the "swipe test". Gently swipe your finger on a part of the car that has been covered with wax. If your finger wipes the wax away cleanly then the wax has dried. If the wax smears then it is still wet.
A tip for working with waxes, paint sealants or coatings that are new to you
Show Car Garage Video: How To Apply A Carnauba Finishing Wax By Hand Using The Straight-Line Technique
Last edited by zmcgovern4; 10-30-13 at 06:14 AM.
11-11-13, 07:13 PM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Hi fellas, just back on this forum. Just traded my IS250 in on a 2014 Rx450H (love the new wheels). I have been reading all of the recommendations, clay bar, zaino, Meg's, etc. I used Zaino products for years then started using various products from the local retail shops. I use Rejex on my airplane. I am completely overwhelmed by all of the info on what I need to do to care for my new car's paint. Anyone care to summarize best practices for new car paint? Clay bar really needed? Suggestions for products I can get over the counter?
Last edited by falconer; 11-11-13 at 07:44 PM.
11-12-13, 07:52 AM
#12
Hi fellas, just back on this forum. Just traded my IS250 in on a 2014 Rx450H (love the new wheels). I have been reading all of the recommendations, clay bar, zaino, Meg's, etc. I used Zaino products for years then started using various products from the local retail shops. I use Rejex on my airplane. I am completely overwhelmed by all of the info on what I need to do to care for my new car's paint. Anyone care to summarize best practices for new car paint? Clay bar really needed? Suggestions for products I can get over the counter?
Also, most 'new' cars have spent some amount of time on a lot - whether it was at the factory, in a shipping area, or at the dealership. This has given plenty of time for surface contaminates to bond to the paint and for water spots to begin to etch the paint.
For this reason, I will always recommend a full detail on brand new vehicles.
The basics steps are as follows:
- Clean wheels and tires
- Wash Car
- Remove fallout/iron particles
- Clay Car
- Machine polish to remove surface defects and produce an incredibly glossy finish
- Protect paint
- Protect wheels
- Dress Tires, Clean Exhaust, Clean Glass, Etc etc.
If you'd like me to elaborate on products to be used for these steps, I would be happy to do so. If you'd like me to recommend a trusted professional in your area, I would also be happy to do that.
-Zach
11-12-13, 06:38 PM
#13
Driver School Candidate
The unfortunate fact of the matter is that most new cars could benefit from a complete paint correction detail. Unless you were lucky enough to receive your vehicle as they were unloading it from the truck with the protective wrapping still on it, then the dealership has had time to allow their guys to 'detail it'. This typically resorts in buffer trails/holograms, dull paint, and an overall poor finish.
Also, most 'new' cars have spent some amount of time on a lot - whether it was at the factory, in a shipping area, or at the dealership. This has given plenty of time for surface contaminates to bond to the paint and for water spots to begin to etch the paint.
For this reason, I will always recommend a full detail on brand new vehicles.
The basics steps are as follows:
- Clean wheels and tires
- Wash Car
- Remove fallout/iron particles
- Clay Car
- Machine polish to remove surface defects and produce an incredibly glossy finish
- Protect paint
- Protect wheels
- Dress Tires, Clean Exhaust, Clean Glass, Etc etc.
If you'd like me to elaborate on products to be used for these steps, I would be happy to do so. If you'd like me to recommend a trusted professional in your area, I would also be happy to do that.
-Zach
Also, most 'new' cars have spent some amount of time on a lot - whether it was at the factory, in a shipping area, or at the dealership. This has given plenty of time for surface contaminates to bond to the paint and for water spots to begin to etch the paint.
For this reason, I will always recommend a full detail on brand new vehicles.
The basics steps are as follows:
- Clean wheels and tires
- Wash Car
- Remove fallout/iron particles
- Clay Car
- Machine polish to remove surface defects and produce an incredibly glossy finish
- Protect paint
- Protect wheels
- Dress Tires, Clean Exhaust, Clean Glass, Etc etc.
If you'd like me to elaborate on products to be used for these steps, I would be happy to do so. If you'd like me to recommend a trusted professional in your area, I would also be happy to do that.
-Zach
Thanks for any additional info!
Bill
11-13-13, 06:20 AM
#14
First, please CLICK HERE to read an article on proper washing and drying
Wheels & Tires
- A Bucket and Grit Guard used ONLY for wheels
- Wheel Cleaner
- Soft Wheel Brush for wheel faces
- EZ Detail Brush for cleaning barrels of wheels and in between spokes
- Tuf Shine Tire Cleaner & Brush
- Wheel Sealant to protect your wheels and make them easier to clean
- Premium Tire Dressing - a water based dressing to help nourish your rubber and keep it looking good
Washing & Drying
- Two Buckets and Two Grit Guards (money saving package!)
- Sheepskin Wash Mitt
- Optimum Car Wash (High Quality Shampoo)
- Two (or more) Waffle Weave Microfiber Drying Towels
- Optimum Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer (Quick Detail Spray)
- 5 or more Plush Microfiber Towels for use with Quick Detail Spray (high quality microfiber makes all the difference! do not purchase cheap towels from your local auto parts store. If you have them, use them for wheels and exhausts... don't use them on your paint!)
Decontamination
- Iron X Iron/Fallout Cleanser
- Fine Grade Clay Bar
- NanoSkin Glide Clay Lubricant (dilute in separate bottle)
- Two Waffle Weave Drying Towels to dry clay lube
Machine Polishing
- Porter Cable 7424XP Kit (includes machine, backing plate, 8 Pads and Pad cleaner - a great deal!)
- Meguiar's Ultimate Compound for removing heavier defects/scratches
- Meguiar's M205 Finishing Polish to produce an unbelievable shine
- 10 or more quality microfiber towels for removing polish residue (I typically use 30+ towels per full detail)
Protection
Sealant: Menzerna Power Lock
Wax: Menzerna Color Lock
Not mentioned:
- Glass cleaner
- Metal Polish/Protection for exhaust tips
- Engine Bay Cleaning/Dressing Products
- Exterior Trim Cleaning/Protection
- Interior Cleaning/Protection
^I would be happy to continue, however I find that usually when I spend this much time putting a list of products together for people, they rarely take it into consideration... so please let me know if you would like me to suggest these other products. I would be happy to if you were truly considering using them.
You will find a full, comprehensive detailing guide by CLICKING HERE. It will help to walk you through the full detail process.
I have added everything to a shopping cart for you... PLEASE CLICK HERE TO VIEW IT.
MSRP: $710.70 ... it is definitely worth noting that the many of these supplies will last you MANY years, so this is by far the more economical way to go if you intend on properly maintaining your vehicle on your own rather than paying a professional to polish it on a yearly basis... however, this process takes a significant amount of time, patience, practice, and dedication, so if that is something you do not have - seeking professional services is highly recommended.
The only person I know in the area is:
Immaculate Reflections
Jeff McGoveran
Antioch, CA.
(925) 354-7653
http://www.immaculate-reflections.com/
I cannot speak for Jeff, but I would personally charge around $600 for what I call my 'Exterior Enhancement Detail' which includes a very thorough cleaning, decontamination, finishing polish, traditional protection and basic interior detail.
Please let me know if you've got any more questions... hopefully this was helpful, as it takes me quite a while to put together these detailed responses
-Zach
Wheels & Tires
- A Bucket and Grit Guard used ONLY for wheels
- Wheel Cleaner
- Soft Wheel Brush for wheel faces
- EZ Detail Brush for cleaning barrels of wheels and in between spokes
- Tuf Shine Tire Cleaner & Brush
- Wheel Sealant to protect your wheels and make them easier to clean
- Premium Tire Dressing - a water based dressing to help nourish your rubber and keep it looking good
Washing & Drying
- Two Buckets and Two Grit Guards (money saving package!)
- Sheepskin Wash Mitt
- Optimum Car Wash (High Quality Shampoo)
- Two (or more) Waffle Weave Microfiber Drying Towels
- Optimum Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer (Quick Detail Spray)
- 5 or more Plush Microfiber Towels for use with Quick Detail Spray (high quality microfiber makes all the difference! do not purchase cheap towels from your local auto parts store. If you have them, use them for wheels and exhausts... don't use them on your paint!)
Decontamination
- Iron X Iron/Fallout Cleanser
- Fine Grade Clay Bar
- NanoSkin Glide Clay Lubricant (dilute in separate bottle)
- Two Waffle Weave Drying Towels to dry clay lube
Machine Polishing
- Porter Cable 7424XP Kit (includes machine, backing plate, 8 Pads and Pad cleaner - a great deal!)
- Meguiar's Ultimate Compound for removing heavier defects/scratches
- Meguiar's M205 Finishing Polish to produce an unbelievable shine
- 10 or more quality microfiber towels for removing polish residue (I typically use 30+ towels per full detail)
Protection
Sealant: Menzerna Power Lock
Wax: Menzerna Color Lock
Not mentioned:
- Glass cleaner
- Metal Polish/Protection for exhaust tips
- Engine Bay Cleaning/Dressing Products
- Exterior Trim Cleaning/Protection
- Interior Cleaning/Protection
^I would be happy to continue, however I find that usually when I spend this much time putting a list of products together for people, they rarely take it into consideration... so please let me know if you would like me to suggest these other products. I would be happy to if you were truly considering using them.
You will find a full, comprehensive detailing guide by CLICKING HERE. It will help to walk you through the full detail process.
I have added everything to a shopping cart for you... PLEASE CLICK HERE TO VIEW IT.
MSRP: $710.70 ... it is definitely worth noting that the many of these supplies will last you MANY years, so this is by far the more economical way to go if you intend on properly maintaining your vehicle on your own rather than paying a professional to polish it on a yearly basis... however, this process takes a significant amount of time, patience, practice, and dedication, so if that is something you do not have - seeking professional services is highly recommended.
....and trusted pro in my area (yolo county, CA). And what should I pay for this level of service? I actually stopped at the car wash I normally go to and asked them about there detailing services. I was not impressed, especially seeing the fella dropping the wax rag on the ground and promptly using it on his customers car. Checking yelp, others are not impressed either. I have just used there basic wash service in the past.
Thanks for any additional info!
Bill
Thanks for any additional info!
Bill
Immaculate Reflections
Jeff McGoveran
Antioch, CA.
(925) 354-7653
http://www.immaculate-reflections.com/
I cannot speak for Jeff, but I would personally charge around $600 for what I call my 'Exterior Enhancement Detail' which includes a very thorough cleaning, decontamination, finishing polish, traditional protection and basic interior detail.
Please let me know if you've got any more questions... hopefully this was helpful, as it takes me quite a while to put together these detailed responses
-Zach
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