Proper way to wash 2014 IS 350 F-Sport Rims and Clear Bra question
11-27-13, 07:13 AM
#1
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Proper way to wash 2014 IS 350 F-Sport Rims and Clear Bra question
Brand new to the world of painted rims. Since I will probably not be washing the car myself (live in an apartment complex without access to a hose), I have historically taken my car to a handwash place not too far from me.
Is there any specific instructions I need to give to the guy before he washes my rims? How easy it to scratch them while washing? There's all that brake dust which is freaking me out!
I also have a question about the clear bra's. I recently had a bad run in with some road debris and there is a little blemish on the hood. Will the clear bra make this blemish less visible (I will try to take a picture of it when I get home later). I've been told it might. It's not really a scratch (maybe a slight scratch) and it's not realy a dent. Almost like it removed some of the clear coat. It just looks a bit discolored and is not noticeable unless you look for it (like I do everytime I look at the hood
) The car is is Ultra White and I wanted to see if this would help and make it less visible to me.
Even without the blemish factor, is it worth it to get the clear bra? Do they discolor over time?
Does anyone have any recommneded installers in the NYC area?
Thanks in advance for all the help and advice!
Is there any specific instructions I need to give to the guy before he washes my rims? How easy it to scratch them while washing? There's all that brake dust which is freaking me out!
I also have a question about the clear bra's. I recently had a bad run in with some road debris and there is a little blemish on the hood. Will the clear bra make this blemish less visible (I will try to take a picture of it when I get home later). I've been told it might. It's not really a scratch (maybe a slight scratch) and it's not realy a dent. Almost like it removed some of the clear coat. It just looks a bit discolored and is not noticeable unless you look for it (like I do everytime I look at the hood
) The car is is Ultra White and I wanted to see if this would help and make it less visible to me.Even without the blemish factor, is it worth it to get the clear bra? Do they discolor over time?
Does anyone have any recommneded installers in the NYC area?
Thanks in advance for all the help and advice!
11-27-13, 07:25 AM
#2
Go to the Wash Experts in Coney Island, 2390 Mcdonald Ave. however, if i were you i'd get a 5 gallon bucket and some ONR, some quality MF towels and drying towels, and use the Gary Dean method, get some OOC also. if you don't have access to a hose you can always go to wally world or target and pick up a few gallons of distilled water. 2 gallons should be enough to wash your car. oh, get you some OID for a final wipe down after you wash the car.
11-27-13, 10:04 AM
#3
If getting the clear bra installed you should look into getting all the imperfections out. As the film will need to be removed. Is it worth it, depends. How **** are you? Is it a lease? How long do you plan on keeping the car?
I had my GS done because I bought it, so I plan on keeping the car for a while. It shouldn't yellow. Xpel has a 10 year warranty so if something goes wrong, it's taken care of...
Where in NYC are you?
Syd- have you been to the wash experts? I've seen mix reviews...
I had my GS done because I bought it, so I plan on keeping the car for a while. It shouldn't yellow. Xpel has a 10 year warranty so if something goes wrong, it's taken care of...
Where in NYC are you?
Syd- have you been to the wash experts? I've seen mix reviews...
Last edited by puckhead85; 11-27-13 at 10:18 AM.
11-27-13, 01:21 PM
#4
Go to the Wash Experts in Coney Island, 2390 Mcdonald Ave. however, if i were you i'd get a 5 gallon bucket and some ONR, some quality MF towels and drying towels, and use the Gary Dean method, get some OOC also. if you don't have access to a hose you can always go to wally world or target and pick up a few gallons of distilled water. 2 gallons should be enough to wash your car. oh, get you some OID for a final wipe down after you wash the car.
ONR = Optimum No Rinse
OOC = Optimum Opti Clean
OID = Optimum Instant Detailer
OCW = Optimum Car Wax
Threw that last one in b/c it's the only spraywax you'll ever need. You'll feel like you're cheating cause it's so easy to wax your car.
I see it's a white car. Didn't notice the colour from your other post. Now I'd highly recommend you get it coated with either Optimum Opticoat or Cquartz finest. There are others but I think either of those will suit you best.
Fair warning, I'm about to get really geeky here. You can stop reading now cause once you get into the finer points, you become OCD and nothing will ever satisfy you.
Soft white paint is notorious for staining and little orange flecks which is iron that gets embedded in your clearcoat and works it's way into the paint. Once it starts rusting, then your car looks like it has freckles. You can clay them off but really, you're just shearing the iron off at the surface. You'll need a product like iron X to dissolve the stuff that is embedded. It's really cool when you see it working ; stuff turns purple as it works and the car looks like it's bleeding. There are lots of videos of all this stuff on youtube: Gary Dean method, iron X, how to opticoat the car yourself, etc... Might be too cold to do it yourself now but if you're in an apartment, maybe your parking area is warm enough to sneak down one night and do it.
Opticoat cures harder than the original clearcoat (in many cases) which makes it harder for the brake dust etc to settle and work its way into the paint. It's supposed to be a permanent coating that will last until it gets polished off.
Last edited by embolism; 11-27-13 at 01:27 PM.
11-27-13, 01:28 PM
#5
Fair warning, I'm about to get really geeky here. You can stop reading now cause once you get into the finer points, you become OCD and nothing will ever satisfy you.
Soft white paint is notorious for staining and little orange flecks which is iron that gets embedded in your clearcoat and works it's way into the paint. Once it starts rusting, then your car looks like it has freckles. You can clay them off but really, you're just shearing the iron off at the surface. You'll need a product like iron X to dissolve the stuff that is embedded. It's really cool when you see it working ; stuff turns purple as it works and the car looks like it's bleeding. There are lots of videos of all this stuff on youtube: Gary Dean method, iron X, how to opticoat the car yourself, etc... Might be too cold to do it yourself now but if you're in an apartment, maybe your parking area is warm enough to sneak down one night and do it.
Soft white paint is notorious for staining and little orange flecks which is iron that gets embedded in your clearcoat and works it's way into the paint. Once it starts rusting, then your car looks like it has freckles. You can clay them off but really, you're just shearing the iron off at the surface. You'll need a product like iron X to dissolve the stuff that is embedded. It's really cool when you see it working ; stuff turns purple as it works and the car looks like it's bleeding. There are lots of videos of all this stuff on youtube: Gary Dean method, iron X, how to opticoat the car yourself, etc... Might be too cold to do it yourself now but if you're in an apartment, maybe your parking area is warm enough to sneak down one night and do it.
11-27-13, 02:29 PM
#6
^examples of Iron X working. Note: These cars have been thoroughly foamed, rinsed, and hand washed. They were then treated with Iron X to remove the bonded above surface iron particles also known as fallout. The purple reaction is caused when Iron X reacts with iron particles and dissolves them from the surface.
Purchase Iron X Here
It is truly a very important product for any car owner to have as it makes decontamination much quicker and easier... it just looks cooler on white cars
11-27-13, 02:58 PM
#7
If getting the clear bra installed you should look into getting all the imperfections out. As the film will need to be removed. Is it worth it, depends. How **** are you? Is it a lease? How long do you plan on keeping the car?
I had my GS done because I bought it, so I plan on keeping the car for a while. It shouldn't yellow. Xpel has a 10 year warranty so if something goes wrong, it's taken care of...
Where in NYC are you?
Syd- have you been to the wash experts? I've seen mix reviews...
I had my GS done because I bought it, so I plan on keeping the car for a while. It shouldn't yellow. Xpel has a 10 year warranty so if something goes wrong, it's taken care of...
Where in NYC are you?
Syd- have you been to the wash experts? I've seen mix reviews...
Since you're new to detailing, you prob don't know what all those acronyms above are. They are basically products in the Optimum line-up.
ONR = Optimum No Rinse
OOC = Optimum Opti Clean
OID = Optimum Instant Detailer
OCW = Optimum Car Wax
Threw that last one in b/c it's the only spraywax you'll ever need. You'll feel like you're cheating cause it's so easy to wax your car.
I see it's a white car. Didn't notice the colour from your other post. Now I'd highly recommend you get it coated with either Optimum Opticoat or Cquartz finest. There are others but I think either of those will suit you best.
Fair warning, I'm about to get really geeky here. You can stop reading now cause once you get into the finer points, you become OCD and nothing will ever satisfy you.
Soft white paint is notorious for staining and little orange flecks which is iron that gets embedded in your clearcoat and works it's way into the paint. Once it starts rusting, then your car looks like it has freckles. You can clay them off but really, you're just shearing the iron off at the surface. You'll need a product like iron X to dissolve the stuff that is embedded. It's really cool when you see it working ; stuff turns purple as it works and the car looks like it's bleeding. There are lots of videos of all this stuff on youtube: Gary Dean method, iron X, how to opticoat the car yourself, etc... Might be too cold to do it yourself now but if you're in an apartment, maybe your parking area is warm enough to sneak down one night and do it.
Opticoat cures harder than the original clearcoat (in many cases) which makes it harder for the brake dust etc to settle and work its way into the paint. It's supposed to be a permanent coating that will last until it gets polished off.
ONR = Optimum No Rinse
OOC = Optimum Opti Clean
OID = Optimum Instant Detailer
OCW = Optimum Car Wax
Threw that last one in b/c it's the only spraywax you'll ever need. You'll feel like you're cheating cause it's so easy to wax your car.
I see it's a white car. Didn't notice the colour from your other post. Now I'd highly recommend you get it coated with either Optimum Opticoat or Cquartz finest. There are others but I think either of those will suit you best.
Fair warning, I'm about to get really geeky here. You can stop reading now cause once you get into the finer points, you become OCD and nothing will ever satisfy you.
Soft white paint is notorious for staining and little orange flecks which is iron that gets embedded in your clearcoat and works it's way into the paint. Once it starts rusting, then your car looks like it has freckles. You can clay them off but really, you're just shearing the iron off at the surface. You'll need a product like iron X to dissolve the stuff that is embedded. It's really cool when you see it working ; stuff turns purple as it works and the car looks like it's bleeding. There are lots of videos of all this stuff on youtube: Gary Dean method, iron X, how to opticoat the car yourself, etc... Might be too cold to do it yourself now but if you're in an apartment, maybe your parking area is warm enough to sneak down one night and do it.
Opticoat cures harder than the original clearcoat (in many cases) which makes it harder for the brake dust etc to settle and work its way into the paint. It's supposed to be a permanent coating that will last until it gets polished off.
Last edited by sydtoosic; 11-27-13 at 03:10 PM.
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11-27-13, 03:40 PM
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Wow...great information everyone! Thanks to everyone who posted. Yes, my car is Ultra White.
The detail provided is greatly appreciated. I never knew there were options that required very little water. Looks like I have go find these products and place an order!
To answer some of the questions asked:
1) I own the car
2) Plan to have it for a while (probably 5+ years)
3) Very particular about my car (though admittedly, very naive on the best way to maintain it - if that wasn't already obvious)
4) My garage is constantly 65 degrees in the winter (75 in the summer)
Will be watching youtube tonight!
The detail provided is greatly appreciated. I never knew there were options that required very little water. Looks like I have go find these products and place an order!
To answer some of the questions asked:
1) I own the car
2) Plan to have it for a while (probably 5+ years)
3) Very particular about my car (though admittedly, very naive on the best way to maintain it - if that wasn't already obvious)
4) My garage is constantly 65 degrees in the winter (75 in the summer)
Will be watching youtube tonight!
11-27-13, 04:39 PM
#9
Wow...great information everyone! Thanks to everyone who posted. Yes, my car is Ultra White.
The detail provided is greatly appreciated. I never knew there were options that required very little water. Looks like I have go find these products and place an order!
To answer some of the questions asked:
1) I own the car
2) Plan to have it for a while (probably 5+ years)
3) Very particular about my car (though admittedly, very naive on the best way to maintain it - if that wasn't already obvious)
4) My garage is constantly 65 degrees in the winter (75 in the summer)
Will be watching youtube tonight!
The detail provided is greatly appreciated. I never knew there were options that required very little water. Looks like I have go find these products and place an order!
To answer some of the questions asked:
1) I own the car
2) Plan to have it for a while (probably 5+ years)
3) Very particular about my car (though admittedly, very naive on the best way to maintain it - if that wasn't already obvious)
4) My garage is constantly 65 degrees in the winter (75 in the summer)
Will be watching youtube tonight!
Click here to read a great article about rinsless washing with Optimum No Rinse (ONR). This article speaks about using it for winter washing, but you would use the same process no matter the season.
Another great rinseless wash method (as already mentioned) is the Gary Dean Wash Method... it is my personal choice for maintenance washes when my car is still in good shape (ie not too dirty).
Here is a detailing guide that will walk you through the basics of every step of the detailing process.
-Zach
11-27-13, 06:42 PM
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Watched the videos, but have some questions.
If the car gets really dirty, is it safe to go to one of those "hand wash" places? They do not put the car on the conveyor belt, they wash it with a hose and sponge. And then apply this method?
Also, this method is good for the F-Sport rims? Just paranoid about all the brake dust. Need to find the video on how to put on Opti-Coat on the rims and where to buy it.
The advances in washing/detailing are amazing! Haven't felt like I've had a car I want to baby this much since I got my A4 back in '97!
If the car gets really dirty, is it safe to go to one of those "hand wash" places? They do not put the car on the conveyor belt, they wash it with a hose and sponge. And then apply this method?
Also, this method is good for the F-Sport rims? Just paranoid about all the brake dust. Need to find the video on how to put on Opti-Coat on the rims and where to buy it.
The advances in washing/detailing are amazing! Haven't felt like I've had a car I want to baby this much since I got my A4 back in '97!
11-28-13, 07:01 AM
#12
Maybe b/c the wife has appropriated my supply and started using it to pre-treat grease stains on her clothes...
Last edited by embolism; 11-28-13 at 07:09 AM.
11-28-13, 04:07 PM
#13
I would definitely suggest you getting a clear bra on especially since you live in NY. I had mine installed by Phil from DetailersDomain. He's a great guy and they do great work. As for the wash I used to go pretty often. They are ok, nothing really beats washing it yourself. For the winter I usually use Optimum products since I park my car out water freezes pretty quickly if you don't dry it off quickly.
11-28-13, 06:20 PM
#14
11-28-13, 06:26 PM
#15
Watched the videos, but have some questions.
If the car gets really dirty, is it safe to go to one of those "hand wash" places? They do not put the car on the conveyor belt, they wash it with a hose and sponge. And then apply this method?
Also, this method is good for the F-Sport rims? Just paranoid about all the brake dust. Need to find the video on how to put on Opti-Coat on the rims and where to buy it.
The advances in washing/detailing are amazing! Haven't felt like I've had a car I want to baby this much since I got my A4 back in '97!
If the car gets really dirty, is it safe to go to one of those "hand wash" places? They do not put the car on the conveyor belt, they wash it with a hose and sponge. And then apply this method?
Also, this method is good for the F-Sport rims? Just paranoid about all the brake dust. Need to find the video on how to put on Opti-Coat on the rims and where to buy it.
The advances in washing/detailing are amazing! Haven't felt like I've had a car I want to baby this much since I got my A4 back in '97!
. opti coating your wheels IMO should be done with the wheels off, so that you can hit the barrels and behind the spokes, but it can be done with the wheels on, you just won't be able to get in there like you should.