Hey guys,

I just purchased my first Lexus less than a month ago--the IS 250 F Sport, to be exact. I've read and heard all the horror stories about dealerships putting swirls/scratches on brand new cars when they wash them, because of improper techniques. I've also scoured this forum -- and to be honest -- I'm really overwhelmed with all the products and opinions.

I don't want to buy just anything that says "cleaning" or "drying", etc. and would really value your guys' feedback and suggestions.

That being said, what exactly is recommended for a perfectionist when it comes to the whole 9 yards -- from prepping the car for an authentic car wash (by hand) to the drying, detailing, sealing, etc??

Any and every step/product recommendation from you all is EXTREMELY appreciated.

ONE more thing : Is a rinse less car wash/wax something I can do only sometimes, when I'm in a pinch?

A million thanks to those of you who are giving up your time to give me tips and tricks.

 

I highly recomend that you check out and read the forums over at Autogeek. All depends on your budget and what you like to use for products and how involved you want to get. Usual steps go like this...
Wash
Decontaminate
Clay
Compound
Polish
Seal
Wax

Enjoy.....and maintain

 

For washing, I have switched over to a no rinse method. From these forums, I found this how-to:

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-no-rinse-onr/

I purchased the equipment described here, follow these instructions, and frankly, I love it and doubt I'll go back to anything else. I wash both of my cars this way and love it.

 

These are some of my recommendations for basic detailing products and tools. It is important to remember that proper technique is key... even with something as "simple" as washing. If proper techniques are not followed, permanent damage can occur.

First, please CLICK HERE to read an article on proper washing and drying

Wheels & Tires
- A Bucket and Grit Guard used ONLY for wheels
- Wheel Cleaner
- Soft Wheel Brush for wheel faces
- EZ Detail Brush for cleaning barrels of wheels and in between spokes
- Tuf Shine Tire Cleaner & Brush
- Wheel Sealant to protect your wheels and make them easier to clean
- Premium Tire Dressing - a water based dressing to help nourish your rubber and keep it looking good


Washing & Drying
- Two Buckets and Two Grit Guards (money saving package!)
- Sheepskin Wash Mitt
- Optimum Car Wash (High Quality Shampoo)
- Two (or more) Waffle Weave Microfiber Drying Towels
- Optimum Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer (Quick Detail Spray)
- 5 or more Plush Microfiber Towels for use with Quick Detail Spray (high quality microfiber makes all the difference! do not purchase cheap towels from your local auto parts store. If you have them, use them for wheels and exhausts... don't use them on your paint!)


Decontamination
- Iron X Iron/Fallout Cleanser
- Fine Grade Clay Bar
- NanoSkin Glide Clay Lubricant (dilute in separate bottle)
- Two Waffle Weave Drying Towels to dry clay lube


Machine Polishing
- Porter Cable 7424XP Kit (includes machine, backing plate, 8 Pads and Pad cleaner - a great deal! I would recommend asking for 2 Orange Light Cutting Pads, 2 White Polishing Pads, 2 Black Finishing Pads, and 2 Blue Fine Finishing Pads)
- You may also consider Meguiar's Microfiber Cutting Pads if you have harder paint or more severe defects that need to be removed.
- Menzerna Fast Gloss 400 Cutting Compound for removing heavier defects/scratches
- Meguiar's M205 Finishing Polish to produce an unbelievable shine
- If you have softer paint, or black paint, you may find it beneficial to follow up with an even finer polish like Menzerna Micro Polish SF4500
- 10 or more quality microfiber towels for removing polish residue (I typically use 30+ towels per full detail)

Protection
Sealant: Menzerna Power Lock
Wax: Menzerna Color Lock


Misc. Other Tasks
- Glass Cleaner: Stoner Invisible Glass
- Metal Polish/Protection: Chemical Guys Metal Wax (Metal Polish + Metal Sealant in one step!)
- Engine Bay Cleaning: Optimum Power Clean
- Engine Bay Dressing: 303 Aerospace Protectant for engine covers/plastic panels and Chemical Guys Black on Black spray for hoses, harnesses, and hard to reach areas.
- Exterior Trim Protectant/Coating: 22ple VR1 Plastic and Trim Restorer (up to 1 year of durable, fantastic looking trim protection.
- Light Interior Cleaning/UV Protection: 303 Aerospace Protectant for a slightly glossy appearance or Einszett Cockpit Premium for a 'like new' matte finish


You will find a full, comprehensive detailing guide by CLICKING HERE. It will help to walk you through basics of the full detailing process.

Please let me know if you've got any other specific questions regarding processes, products, technique, etc.

-Zach

 

^I agree...


Optimum No Rinse (ONR) is also a great option for maintaining your vehicle. It is not something you can "only use in a pinch", but it should not be used on a vehicle that is excessively dirty IMO.

 

Agreed. I should have added the fine print.

I do not live somewhere with much ice, snow, or salted roads. We get that maybe once or twice a year, and even then I'm unlikely to drive in it. So, luckily, I'm not having to wash off that type of grime.

Switching to a no rinse wash has made it a lot easier for me to keep my cars clean, because it's very easy and, after my kid is in bed in the evening, I can easily go out to the garage and wash the cars. Therefore I can do it more frequently and the dirt doesn't build up.

However, as you said, if they were REALLY dirty, I'd probably still pull them out of the garage and hose them down.

 

Thanks, guys! So my plan would be to traditionally wash once a month, and maintain with a no-rinse solution once per week. I just bought Maguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer to hold me over--I haven't used it on the entire car yet--just spot cleaned an area. Is this product good to use as well, while I order stuff from DI?

 

When I started reading your thread, my immediate reply was going to be to point you to a great resource article I used. Well turns out Zach beat me to it - this is the exact guide/resource I used to do my first comprehensive (i.e. Approx 20 hour) detail on my SFP IS250. I actually have it printed and stored in a pouch hanging on the wall of my garage for future details!

As others say, do a lot of reading. You want to be prepared before you start the job and not have to fumble in the middle of a job. Best of luck, the reward is well worth the effort!