Got all them toys!
03-04-03, 09:47 PM
#1
Search Function Inc.
Thread Starter
Got all them toys!
OK, I think I am ready to shine it up. Going to make that black even blacker 
Anything else I have missed? Anything you would recommend?
P.S. Guitarman, you are the man...man! Thx for your help!
Anything else I have missed? Anything you would recommend? P.S. Guitarman, you are the man...man! Thx for your help!
03-05-03, 05:22 PM
#2
HOLY MACARONI!
You weren't kidding around when you said you were going out and buying stuff! I am amazed.
One thing; I was under the assumption you were going for the Porter Cable D/A random orbit polisher, and that sure looks like their rotary to me, so...be very careful if it is. Great tool, but you need to practice on a lawn mower or some other unimportant piece of painted metal first, before you start on your other car. Learn to use it well and you'll be amazed at what you can do.
Anyhoo...I wish everyone was THAT proactive! (Hey, you're helping out the ecomomy right?)
Email me if you need assistance.Cheers... Dan H onequiksc@cfl.rr.com:
One thing; I was under the assumption you were going for the Porter Cable D/A random orbit polisher, and that sure looks like their rotary to me, so...be very careful if it is. Great tool, but you need to practice on a lawn mower or some other unimportant piece of painted metal first, before you start on your other car. Learn to use it well and you'll be amazed at what you can do.
Anyhoo...I wish everyone was THAT proactive! (Hey, you're helping out the ecomomy right?)
Email me if you need assistance.Cheers... Dan H onequiksc@cfl.rr.com:
Last edited by Guitarman; 03-05-03 at 05:22 PM.
i've been waiting for it to get warmer so i can have some fun also.
03-06-03, 10:29 AM
#5
Search Function Inc.
Thread Starter
Oh man, looks like I got the wrong buffer! I wonder if I can just put it to low RPM and use it like the other orbital Porter Cable that is safe for newbies.
03-06-03, 10:45 AM
#6
Pole Position
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ArmorAll?
Ive heard bad things about Armor All. Read more and try to stay away from it. Use 303 for the tires.
What is that orange can? Ive used Permatex Orange Hand Cleaner w/ Pumice for my friends RX with beige leather and it worked great. Used Hide Food (or Hide Care- available from any Jaguar parts dealer for about $15).
Please post pics/review after you are done.
What is that orange can? Ive used Permatex Orange Hand Cleaner w/ Pumice for my friends RX with beige leather and it worked great. Used Hide Food (or Hide Care- available from any Jaguar parts dealer for about $15).
Please post pics/review after you are done.
03-06-03, 12:55 PM
#7
Retro, I wouldn't be so hasty to return it, I mean , if you're willing to learn how to use it, there are things you can do with that tool that you CAN'T do with the orbital. An orbital is a great tool, don't get me wrong, but you can't remove paint as fast and easy with it. Which of course makes the rotary dangerous to the untrained, but wonderful in the hands of someone experienced.
Just keep the rpms VERY low (under 1000 for now) , keep it MOVING (never hold it in one spot while it's running) and stay away from ridges and edges, or tape them off with masking tape. Don't throttle the rpms up and down,lock in a set rpm (if it has that feature) or just keep the speed steady.
You CAN do it, it just takes getting to know the weight/feel and balance of the machine and learning how to work in the polish. Move the buffer about 1/2 ft. to 1 ft per second at around 800 to 1000rpm to start. You can apply the polish to the pad then place the buffer and pad onto the paint and turn it on, moving it immediately. Overlap each pass, and work horizontally, then vertically, then at a 45 degree angle across what you just did .Do a 1ft x 2 ft area only, and buff/wipe as many times as you need till you see results. Work till the polish is almost dry, then spritz some quick detailer on the remaining residue before you buff it off with a terry towel or microfiber. That will make removal easier and reduce the chance of swirls from wiping the remaining dry compound. When you have gotten that 1ft x 2ft area looking good, spray some isopropyl alcohol and water (50/50 mix) on it to remove the fillers and residue from the polish /compound. This way, you won't be fooled by that stuff hiding scratches etc.
Once you have eliminated oxidation, spider webbing etc, you're ready to wax . Take your time, and remember; speed and high RPMs are NOT your friend. They will increase the possibilities of a burn through, deeper swirling, and an edge / backing plate gouge if you're not careful.
As a final note, if you use a fine polish such as a swirl remover, ALWAYS run the buffer as SLOW AS POSSIBLE on you final passes , otherwise you may just put more swirls into the paint.
Once you feel you have a handle on how to use it, you can speed up some buffing to 1200 to 1750 RPM, but you must get some experience and confidence under your belt first. Cheers, Dan H
Just keep the rpms VERY low (under 1000 for now) , keep it MOVING (never hold it in one spot while it's running) and stay away from ridges and edges, or tape them off with masking tape. Don't throttle the rpms up and down,lock in a set rpm (if it has that feature) or just keep the speed steady.
You CAN do it, it just takes getting to know the weight/feel and balance of the machine and learning how to work in the polish. Move the buffer about 1/2 ft. to 1 ft per second at around 800 to 1000rpm to start. You can apply the polish to the pad then place the buffer and pad onto the paint and turn it on, moving it immediately. Overlap each pass, and work horizontally, then vertically, then at a 45 degree angle across what you just did .Do a 1ft x 2 ft area only, and buff/wipe as many times as you need till you see results. Work till the polish is almost dry, then spritz some quick detailer on the remaining residue before you buff it off with a terry towel or microfiber. That will make removal easier and reduce the chance of swirls from wiping the remaining dry compound. When you have gotten that 1ft x 2ft area looking good, spray some isopropyl alcohol and water (50/50 mix) on it to remove the fillers and residue from the polish /compound. This way, you won't be fooled by that stuff hiding scratches etc.
Once you have eliminated oxidation, spider webbing etc, you're ready to wax . Take your time, and remember; speed and high RPMs are NOT your friend. They will increase the possibilities of a burn through, deeper swirling, and an edge / backing plate gouge if you're not careful.
As a final note, if you use a fine polish such as a swirl remover, ALWAYS run the buffer as SLOW AS POSSIBLE on you final passes , otherwise you may just put more swirls into the paint.
Once you feel you have a handle on how to use it, you can speed up some buffing to 1200 to 1750 RPM, but you must get some experience and confidence under your belt first. Cheers, Dan H
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03-11-03, 08:20 AM
#9
I need your help please...
Oxidation is destroying my paint.
Living in Miami, FL for a year has really oxidized my hood, roof, trunk, rear bumper, & front bumper.
I feel that the hood, roof, and trunk can be saved because when I wax it still shines and there is still a clear coat present. But I know its oxidized because when viewed at certiant angles in the day and under florecent light at night you can see pink blotches (my coupe is red).
The bumpers are toast. They are pretty faded, but the seem to still maintain a light shine but the color is not bright red anymore. Also in the rear bumper there is some cracking (spiderwebbing I think thats the term) .
More than likely I would probably get the front ,rear bumper and also the side view mirrors repainted (they have no clear at all). But I wanted to know what could I use from start to finish to
1. Strip off all old wax
2. Get rid of the oxidation (permanatly)
3. Apply the best polish & wax
4. Sit back and enjoy the work..
Thanks Guys.
PS. not to hijack your thread but maybe some of the things you purchased would help me too..
Living in Miami, FL for a year has really oxidized my hood, roof, trunk, rear bumper, & front bumper.I feel that the hood, roof, and trunk can be saved because when I wax it still shines and there is still a clear coat present. But I know its oxidized because when viewed at certiant angles in the day and under florecent light at night you can see pink blotches (my coupe is red).
The bumpers are toast. They are pretty faded, but the seem to still maintain a light shine but the color is not bright red anymore. Also in the rear bumper there is some cracking (spiderwebbing I think thats the term) .
More than likely I would probably get the front ,rear bumper and also the side view mirrors repainted (they have no clear at all). But I wanted to know what could I use from start to finish to
1. Strip off all old wax
2. Get rid of the oxidation (permanatly)
3. Apply the best polish & wax
4. Sit back and enjoy the work..
Thanks Guys.
PS. not to hijack your thread but maybe some of the things you purchased would help me too..
03-11-03, 05:52 PM
#10
Thai, I'll try to address this for you.
!) Dawn dishwash soap will strip your existing wax, use just a couple drops in your bucket. Thing is though, if you're going to compound or polish your paint, that process will strip off anything that's on there anyway, so it's moot...
2).This is harder to answer since I can't actually see your paint, but the best approach is to use the least amount of abrasive possible to remove it, especially since your paint is on the decline in those areas you mentioned. I'd start with something like 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material, or something of similar grit such as KIT's Scratch -Out in the yellow bottle (available everywhere and only $3). It's not as good as the 3M stuff , but it's WAY cheaper, and I used to get good results on minor oxidation with it.
If these don't work, you will have to go a bit heavier grit to something like Meguiar's Scratch X or 3M Fine-Cut Rubbing Compound. Followed afterwards by a swirl remover polish, like the 3M F-I II listed above or 3M Swirl Remover. Remember; you WILL often have to repeat the buffing step 2x...3x whatever is necessary to remove the oxidation by hand, it's a lot of work and you can't always get the results you need by simply wiping some polish on and buffing it off, it may take some time and effort. Just do small areas, and 1 panel at a time, till you get there. A rotary buffer speeds things up considerably, but also presents problems and dangers to the inexperienced. A good alternative between hand and rotary buffing is a D/A (dual action) buffer such as Porter Cables'. Safe for the novice. Worth it if you're going to be polishing and waxing regularly.
3) Wax: This is up to you. With summer coming on, you might want to consider a polymer or polymer/carnauba blend, as they hold up to heat better than a pure carnauba, which melts @165 degrees.Carnauba's have better depth generally and the oils help hide minor swirling. Pro's and con's to each. Some polymers include: Zaino. Blackfire, NuFinish, Liquid Glass, Finish First, Klasse...
It all depends on how often you want to wax, how much $$$ you want to spend, and if the car sits in the sun a lot, they all factor in .
Hope this helps. Dan H
!) Dawn dishwash soap will strip your existing wax, use just a couple drops in your bucket. Thing is though, if you're going to compound or polish your paint, that process will strip off anything that's on there anyway, so it's moot...
2).This is harder to answer since I can't actually see your paint, but the best approach is to use the least amount of abrasive possible to remove it, especially since your paint is on the decline in those areas you mentioned. I'd start with something like 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material, or something of similar grit such as KIT's Scratch -Out in the yellow bottle (available everywhere and only $3). It's not as good as the 3M stuff , but it's WAY cheaper, and I used to get good results on minor oxidation with it.
If these don't work, you will have to go a bit heavier grit to something like Meguiar's Scratch X or 3M Fine-Cut Rubbing Compound. Followed afterwards by a swirl remover polish, like the 3M F-I II listed above or 3M Swirl Remover. Remember; you WILL often have to repeat the buffing step 2x...3x whatever is necessary to remove the oxidation by hand, it's a lot of work and you can't always get the results you need by simply wiping some polish on and buffing it off, it may take some time and effort. Just do small areas, and 1 panel at a time, till you get there. A rotary buffer speeds things up considerably, but also presents problems and dangers to the inexperienced. A good alternative between hand and rotary buffing is a D/A (dual action) buffer such as Porter Cables'. Safe for the novice. Worth it if you're going to be polishing and waxing regularly.
3) Wax: This is up to you. With summer coming on, you might want to consider a polymer or polymer/carnauba blend, as they hold up to heat better than a pure carnauba, which melts @165 degrees.Carnauba's have better depth generally and the oils help hide minor swirling. Pro's and con's to each. Some polymers include: Zaino. Blackfire, NuFinish, Liquid Glass, Finish First, Klasse...
It all depends on how often you want to wax, how much $$$ you want to spend, and if the car sits in the sun a lot, they all factor in .
Hope this helps. Dan H
Last edited by Guitarman; 03-11-03 at 05:54 PM.
03-15-03, 06:17 PM
#12
http://www.bmwworld.com/repairs/detailing/buffing.htm
Scroll down and view the pics of the Porter-Cable 7424p (the first pic) and then the Makita 9227 and Milwaukee 5460, and you will see their physical differences. The Porter cable is a D/A (dual action ) orbital, the Makita and Milwaukee units are examples of rotary buffers.
The following link contains a pic of a Craftsman random orbit buffer, and it's among the least expensive type D/A available. Note it is plastic, and large with 2 handle grips, unlike the Porter Cable machine, which is single handled like a rotary and largly metal. The Porter cable is a higher quality unit, and more versatile in it's "rotary like" appearance and design, since it can get into tighter places. It all depends on what your needs and budget are. One thing to look for in any type is variable spped, and a locking trigger.
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_To...Polisher_10626
Cheers.
Scroll down and view the pics of the Porter-Cable 7424p (the first pic) and then the Makita 9227 and Milwaukee 5460, and you will see their physical differences. The Porter cable is a D/A (dual action ) orbital, the Makita and Milwaukee units are examples of rotary buffers.
The following link contains a pic of a Craftsman random orbit buffer, and it's among the least expensive type D/A available. Note it is plastic, and large with 2 handle grips, unlike the Porter Cable machine, which is single handled like a rotary and largly metal. The Porter cable is a higher quality unit, and more versatile in it's "rotary like" appearance and design, since it can get into tighter places. It all depends on what your needs and budget are. One thing to look for in any type is variable spped, and a locking trigger.
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_To...Polisher_10626
Cheers.
Last edited by Guitarman; 03-15-03 at 06:55 PM.
03-15-03, 08:37 PM
#13
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Originally posted by Guitarman
http://www.bmwworld.com/repairs/detailing/buffing.htm
Scroll down and view the pics of the Porter-Cable 7424p (the first pic) and then the Makita 9227 and Milwaukee 5460, and you will see their physical differences. The Porter cable is a D/A (dual action ) orbital, the Makita and Milwaukee units are examples of rotary buffers.
The following link contains a pic of a Craftsman random orbit buffer, and it's among the least expensive type D/A available. Note it is plastic, and large with 2 handle grips, unlike the Porter Cable machine, which is single handled like a rotary and largly metal. The Porter cable is a higher quality unit, and more versatile in it's "rotary like" appearance and design, since it can get into tighter places. It all depends on what your needs and budget are. One thing to look for in any type is variable spped, and a locking trigger.
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_To...Polisher_10626
Cheers.
http://www.bmwworld.com/repairs/detailing/buffing.htm
Scroll down and view the pics of the Porter-Cable 7424p (the first pic) and then the Makita 9227 and Milwaukee 5460, and you will see their physical differences. The Porter cable is a D/A (dual action ) orbital, the Makita and Milwaukee units are examples of rotary buffers.
The following link contains a pic of a Craftsman random orbit buffer, and it's among the least expensive type D/A available. Note it is plastic, and large with 2 handle grips, unlike the Porter Cable machine, which is single handled like a rotary and largly metal. The Porter cable is a higher quality unit, and more versatile in it's "rotary like" appearance and design, since it can get into tighter places. It all depends on what your needs and budget are. One thing to look for in any type is variable spped, and a locking trigger.
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_To...Polisher_10626
Cheers.
03-15-03, 08:50 PM
#14
If you look at the BMW link, they explain the differences pretty well.
In a nutshell, a rotary simply spins in a circle. A great deal of heat is generated thusly. This is what a pro uses, but can be dangerous for the inexperienced if you're not careful. You can remove scratches, heavy oxidation etc. with this.
An orbital D/A mimics the human hand and spins in an eccentric orbit. Very little heat is generated since it can't focus on a central point. Safer for the novice, but limited in it's use to "cut" paint. Fine for light polishing, swirl removal, and waxing.
Hope that helps.
In a nutshell, a rotary simply spins in a circle. A great deal of heat is generated thusly. This is what a pro uses, but can be dangerous for the inexperienced if you're not careful. You can remove scratches, heavy oxidation etc. with this.
An orbital D/A mimics the human hand and spins in an eccentric orbit. Very little heat is generated since it can't focus on a central point. Safer for the novice, but limited in it's use to "cut" paint. Fine for light polishing, swirl removal, and waxing.
Hope that helps.