clear coat question
#16
Hey guys, it's me again. So since my clear coat on my gs400 is peeling off, just sand off the clear and applying new clear coat is a no go, i tried gathering as much info as i can get, just so you know this is the first time ever working on a car's paint.
This is what i intend to do, please do correct me if am wrong:
Step 1- wash car
Step 2 - Wet sand clear coat with 1500 grid sand paper
Step 3- apply primer, let it sit for an hour, then wet sand it again with 2000 grid until surface is smooth and uniform
Step 4- apply paint and let it sit for couple hours
Step 5- apply 2-3 clear coat layers with 45 minutes interval.
Step 6- take car cor a spin...
Is it that simple or not really.!
This is what i intend to do, please do correct me if am wrong:
Step 1- wash car
Step 2 - Wet sand clear coat with 1500 grid sand paper
Step 3- apply primer, let it sit for an hour, then wet sand it again with 2000 grid until surface is smooth and uniform
Step 4- apply paint and let it sit for couple hours
Step 5- apply 2-3 clear coat layers with 45 minutes interval.
Step 6- take car cor a spin...
Is it that simple or not really.!
With a 2K clear it will not bond properly if you just sand your existing clear off and then spray it on, not sure exactly how long it will last, maybe a few months to year or two that way.
I will have to go back and find what I did/see what I wrote before I did some spraying but I don't believe you want to sand the primer with 2000grit, you want a rougher service for the paint to grab onto like 600 or 800grit I believe. If you laid on a good coat and don't have any excess spots you don't have to sand the paint between coats but you can if you are not using metallic paint, I would just correct sand the final clear for any mistakes. Read the instructions on paint/clear for how long you let the paint stand until you re apply coats and clear coat, between coats I think it is normally around 20 minutes for urethane, for clear I think it is around half an hour to an hour and you have a window of maybe 2 hours, maybe less. I would let the car sit in a garage to dry/cure, you will have to do some wetsanding afterward to correct some runs, areas you applied to think, or areas where you held the can/sprayer too far and it created bumps. Let the car sit in the sun to finish curing and don't apply a wax/sealant for 2 or 3 months. Also make sure the garage is warm with low humidity.
It is going to be tough to paint your whole roof with rattle cans because it is too big a surface and will be extremely difficult to get a uniform finish, you will also need a couple cans ready to go when you run out which will likely be in the middle of a line. You are definitely going to have to do some wet sand correcting when you are done.
Don't bother with the spray paints you get at autozone or chain stores because they are all lacquer or enamel based and there could be some compatibility problems with a 2K clear, don't use the clearcoats from the chain stores either because it won't last in constant sunlight nor will it be resistant to gasoline or other chemicals.
The best way to go is a urethane basecoat/clearcoat process. Have a paint shop mix the urethane paints for you in aerosol spray cans if that is the way you are going, then buy a few cans of the Spraymax 2K clear or other similar 2K clear. You will need a respirator and goggles especially for the 2K clear and you have to protect/tape off the rest of the car. I would watch a few videos and talk to the people on painting forums and at the paint shop before you try this.
Practice with cheap paint/cheap clear on a spare panel similar to your roof to get your spray technique down as best you can.
Your basecoat is not going to be glossy/shiny either, the 2K clearcoat is going to provide the gloss.
With a roof you may want to just see how much it will cost to have a shop to spray it because it will not be as easy as doing smaller parts like a door, front clip, or spoiler and it may not cost you much more to have the roof sprayed compared to what you have to buy for the roof.
Last edited by UDel; 03-30-15 at 10:12 AM.
#17
Are you talking about repainting your entire roof or just the small spots where the clear is failing?
With a 2K clear it will not bond properly if you just sand your existing clear off and then spray it on, not sure exactly how long it will last, maybe a few months to year or two that way.
I will have to go back and find what I did/see what I wrote before I did some spraying but I don't believe you want to sand the primer with 2000grit, you want a rougher service for the paint to grab onto like 600 or 800grit I believe. If you laid on a good coat and don't have any excess spots you don't have to sand the paint between coats but you can if you are not using metallic paint, I would just correct sand the final clear for any mistakes. Read the instructions on paint/clear for how long you let the paint stand until you re apply coats and clear coat, between coats I think it is normally around 20 minutes for urethane, for clear I think it is around half an hour to an hour and you have a window of maybe 2 hours, maybe less. I would let the car sit in a garage to dry/cure, you will have to do some wetsanding afterward to correct some runs, areas you applied to think, or areas where you held the can/sprayer too far and it created bumps. Let the car sit in the sun to finish curing and don't apply a wax/sealant for 2 or 3 months. Also make sure the garage is warm with low humidity.
It is going to be tough to paint your whole roof with rattle cans because it is too big a surface and will be extremely difficult to get a uniform finish, you will also need a couple cans ready to go when you run out which will likely be in the middle of a line. You are definitely going to have to do some wet sand correcting when you are done.
Don't bother with the spray paints you get at autozone or chain stores because they are all lacquer or enamel based and there could be some compatibility problems with a 2K clear, don't use the clearcoats from the chain stores either because it won't last in constant sunlight nor will it be resistant to gasoline or other chemicals.
The best way to go is a urethane basecoat/clearcoat process. Have a paint shop mix the urethane paints for you in aerosol spray cans if that is the way you are going, then buy a few cans of the Spraymax 2K clear or other similar 2K clear. You will need a respirator and goggles especially for the 2K clear and you have to protect/tape off the rest of the car. I would watch a few videos and talk to the people on painting forums and at the paint shop before you try this.
Practice with cheap paint/cheap clear on a spare panel similar to your roof to get your spray technique down as best you can.
Your basecoat is not going to be glossy/shiny either, the 2K clearcoat is going to provide the gloss.
With a roof you may want to just see how much it will cost to have a shop to spray it because it will not be as easy as doing smaller parts like a door, front clip, or spoiler and it may not cost you much more to have the roof sprayed compared to what you have to buy for the roof.
With a 2K clear it will not bond properly if you just sand your existing clear off and then spray it on, not sure exactly how long it will last, maybe a few months to year or two that way.
I will have to go back and find what I did/see what I wrote before I did some spraying but I don't believe you want to sand the primer with 2000grit, you want a rougher service for the paint to grab onto like 600 or 800grit I believe. If you laid on a good coat and don't have any excess spots you don't have to sand the paint between coats but you can if you are not using metallic paint, I would just correct sand the final clear for any mistakes. Read the instructions on paint/clear for how long you let the paint stand until you re apply coats and clear coat, between coats I think it is normally around 20 minutes for urethane, for clear I think it is around half an hour to an hour and you have a window of maybe 2 hours, maybe less. I would let the car sit in a garage to dry/cure, you will have to do some wetsanding afterward to correct some runs, areas you applied to think, or areas where you held the can/sprayer too far and it created bumps. Let the car sit in the sun to finish curing and don't apply a wax/sealant for 2 or 3 months. Also make sure the garage is warm with low humidity.
It is going to be tough to paint your whole roof with rattle cans because it is too big a surface and will be extremely difficult to get a uniform finish, you will also need a couple cans ready to go when you run out which will likely be in the middle of a line. You are definitely going to have to do some wet sand correcting when you are done.
Don't bother with the spray paints you get at autozone or chain stores because they are all lacquer or enamel based and there could be some compatibility problems with a 2K clear, don't use the clearcoats from the chain stores either because it won't last in constant sunlight nor will it be resistant to gasoline or other chemicals.
The best way to go is a urethane basecoat/clearcoat process. Have a paint shop mix the urethane paints for you in aerosol spray cans if that is the way you are going, then buy a few cans of the Spraymax 2K clear or other similar 2K clear. You will need a respirator and goggles especially for the 2K clear and you have to protect/tape off the rest of the car. I would watch a few videos and talk to the people on painting forums and at the paint shop before you try this.
Practice with cheap paint/cheap clear on a spare panel similar to your roof to get your spray technique down as best you can.
Your basecoat is not going to be glossy/shiny either, the 2K clearcoat is going to provide the gloss.
With a roof you may want to just see how much it will cost to have a shop to spray it because it will not be as easy as doing smaller parts like a door, front clip, or spoiler and it may not cost you much more to have the roof sprayed compared to what you have to buy for the roof.
#18
#20
That is what I will do if i were in your situation. If you wrap, go with 3M carbon fiber wrap. It looks sick! I''m thinking of doing this even when my roof is in perfect condition lol
#21
CF wrap is very tempting and very costly compared to the regular matt black vinyl wrap, will shop around and go with what my budget allows me too
#22
Another crazy option is color changing wrap I'm thinking doing it to my entire car.
#23
Hahahaha don't you think color changing is an overkill!?! My GS is red and I think black will look stunning on it
#25
I think gloss black will look stunning on it but you get to be very careful not creating swirl or scratch. I think matte black is still good, looks great and easy to maintain. Still, IMO, nothing beats carbon fiber black save a bit more and go do it once, do it right.
#26
I hear ya, how much do CF usually run? I don't wanna pay a step price, if I have an idea on about how much it costs I might negotiate better...
#27
The part is essentially very similar so it doesn't really matter what you pick. The labor is what contributes most to the cost.
3M carbon fiber 1080 wrap price $32 (5 square feet) on
3M Gloss black 1080 wrap price $30 (5 square feet)
3M carbon fiber 1080 wrap price $32 (5 square feet) on
3M Gloss black 1080 wrap price $30 (5 square feet)
#28
The part is essentially very similar so it doesn't really matter what you pick. The labor is what contributes most to the cost.
3M carbon fiber 1080 wrap price $32 (5 square feet) on Amazon.com: 3M Scotchprint 1080 Carbon Fiber Vinyl Flex Wrap Black CF12 60"x12": Automotive
3M Gloss black 1080 wrap price $30 (5 square feet) Amazon.com: 5ft x 1ft (5 Sq/ft) 3M GLOSS Black G12 Scotchprint Car Wrap Vinyl Film 1080 Series: Automotive
3M carbon fiber 1080 wrap price $32 (5 square feet) on Amazon.com: 3M Scotchprint 1080 Carbon Fiber Vinyl Flex Wrap Black CF12 60"x12": Automotive
3M Gloss black 1080 wrap price $30 (5 square feet) Amazon.com: 5ft x 1ft (5 Sq/ft) 3M GLOSS Black G12 Scotchprint Car Wrap Vinyl Film 1080 Series: Automotive
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