charley95

I've been looking on Autogeek and other sites to replace my drying towels. I prefer the larger towels and would like a recommendation on which one to purchase. Is the waffle weave the way to go on this? What's the best drying towel you guys are using?

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

Waffle Weave microfiber towels are the most absorbent drying towels out there. They are specifically made for drying your vehicle.

Many other types of microfiber towels are not absorbent, and therefore are terrible at drying.

If you're dealing with particularly delicate paint, another great option is a plush drying towel like the Uber Super Drying Microfiber Towel. The only thing about the plush drying towels is they tend to lint a little, but not a major issue.

sydtoosic

what Z said, been using WWMF drying towels since day one... they are great. as a matter of fact, DI is having a sale on MF towels as i type... i believe they are 25% off... i use the plush uber also, i wash them first then prime the towel by drying the windows first... little trick i learned from Phil over at DD...

2URGSE

I use the California jelly blade before I use those towels, cuts my drying time. Doesn't scratch the paint either.

CRowe14

Is it possible to use an object that essentially causes friction to the paints surface and not scratch it?

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

Theoretically, yes... in order to scratch a material, you must use a material that is harder than the material you are trying to scratch... so if you use something that is softer than paint, you shouldn't be able to scratch the paint.

If wax were harder than paint, you would destroy your car if you tried to wax it, instead you are able to rub it all over and then wipe it off without causing damage.

Unfortunately there are too many variables to account for in the real world to make any guarantees.

CRowe14

This makes complete sense, and I guess I should have been more specific when asking this question, back with a few things I've read in the past.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I recall reading that even though one may have washed a vehicle, there is still the possibility of particulate remaining on the car. When using a squeegee method to remove water, though the rubber is softer than the surface its removing water from, you're still inheriting the risk of scratching the surface, correct?
With the example of wax that you used, wax was created with the intention to be applied to a harder, painted surface in either a back and forth or circular motions, and more obviously, the variable of friction is invited by the harder, coated surface, resulting in a thin film of protection and in some cases, minor scratch correction.
Something else I've read within the realms of this particular section of the forum, was that some people use a feather-like "duster" to remove fine layers of dust that can accumulate on a cars' surface, and that practice is frowned upon by others as well, citing that, though the device used to remove dust is softer than its mated surface, it still, by way of force and friction against particulate, will cause scratches.
I understand that there is no absolute way to prevent light scratching or light marring by drying a vehicle, its just that I thought that the most effective way and least invasive way to dry a vehicle was a very good quality moisture absorbent towel and using the process of "blotting".
If in fact a jelly blade works, and cuts down drying time without damaging the clear coat, I would absolutely try it out.

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

Very correct... I personally do not recommend the squeegee method for this reason. A towel, on the other hand, has a better chance of picking up the particulate and cushioning the surface from the debris due to the nap of the towel while a squeegee is a rigid surface that will drag particulate on the surface.

Right... except a pure wax will never correct defects, it will simply fill them in for temporary appearance of defect removal.

Correct, the reasoning here is that while the duster itself may be a soft surface, the dust itself is the issue. There is no lubrication between the duster and the surface, so the particles that are being wiped off act as an abrasive. The proper way to handle light dust is with a waterless or rinseless wash which will provide plenty of lubrication when removing light dirt/dust.


If you do not have spotless water or a forced air dryer, then yes, I agree that blotting water is the safest way to dry the car as it minimizes "rubbing" and therefore reduces the chances of dragging particles on the paint.

ZAM

With the Uber Super Drying Microfiber Towel, do you place on the car and pat it down to dry or just wipe across the car? Also, is there a similar product on Amazon that also has prime?

Dr. Jekyll

iTrader: (1)

The last drying towel you will ever need:

https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...rying+towel.do

2URGSE

Washing the car with a 5 gallon bucket with grit guard, and a good wash mitt is as equally as important as drying in order to prevent scratches.

If you're going to use clay bar, make sure you have enough lube and the claybar is clean. I usually retire mine after 2 cars, although if you're detailing a car that has not been washed or clay for god knows how long and the clay gets really dirty, I would have 2 brand new clay bars ready.

PondScum

Use the sheeting method with no nozzle on your hose to get most of the water off, then the "drape and drag" method of drying with your waffle weave MF towel. For a conventional drying method (i.e. not using a blower), I think this will result in the fewest drying-induced scratches.