How do I clean these small little dot?
#31
Did you use the Iron x?
#32
Iron-X is expensive, but my time is more valuable to me. If it can save me hour(s) of work and allow me to finish a job with less fatigue, than it's a product I will use every single time.
#34
That's the reason I told you to use Iron-X before you clay bar it... Going straight to clay barring is not only more dangerous on the paint, but also a waste of time and energy with all the chemicals available today.
Iron-X is expensive, but my time is more valuable to me. If it can save me hour(s) of work and allow me to finish a job with less fatigue, than it's a product I will use every single time.
Iron-X is expensive, but my time is more valuable to me. If it can save me hour(s) of work and allow me to finish a job with less fatigue, than it's a product I will use every single time.
#37
I'd hit it with iron x twice. So rinse and dry after teh first time, then do it again. You might not even need a clay bar.
#38
You have to rinse off the iron x off with a garden hose and get it all out of the crevices. Then spray on some clay lube and clay bar what's left of the specs. ONR should be fine as a clay lube at the proper dilution although it's not the best product to use as a lube.
I'd hit it with iron x twice. So rinse and dry after teh first time, then do it again. You might not even need a clay bar.
I'd hit it with iron x twice. So rinse and dry after teh first time, then do it again. You might not even need a clay bar.
#39
If you have no water source, I guess you can spray the onr directly from the bottle and force the iron-x out of the emblem areas and crevices as best as possible. Rinsing with a hose is going to be much easier , quicker, and more effective. However if that's not an option at all, you could try the ONR route although I would advice against it.
#40
#41
#42
The OP has stated several times that his only way of cleaning the car at his residence is with rinseless or waterless washing which is why I omitted IX from my previous recommendations. I would not recommend using IX unless you can thoroughly rinse the treated areas with pressurized water.
I would not recommend this. I do like the idea of a hand held pressurized sprayer though. Since you're only treating a very small area, and not the entire car, this may be a work around for you in your water-less environment. You may also try to simply spray some IX onto a towel, then wipe the area gently to see if you can really keep the IX isolated to the small areas that have contamination.
If it were my car, I would just suck it up and know that every 3-6 months I will need to do a more thorough chemical decontamination process rather than worry about small particles it every 1-2 weeks.
#43
Yeah, it'll be your best option since you can't use a hose. It was to be a pressurized sprayer since a normal spray bottle won't be strong enough to rinse all the ironx out of the cracks and crevices.
Or you could buy 1 gallon bottles of water and only dump it on areas you use ironx if you're washing outdoors.
Or you could buy 1 gallon bottles of water and only dump it on areas you use ironx if you're washing outdoors.
#45
Yeah, it'll be your best option since you can't use a hose. It was to be a pressurized sprayer since a normal spray bottle won't be strong enough to rinse all the ironx out of the cracks and crevices.
Or you could buy 1 gallon bottles of water and only dump it on areas you use ironx if you're washing outdoors.
Or you could buy 1 gallon bottles of water and only dump it on areas you use ironx if you're washing outdoors.