Time to decontaminated and re-wax - Advices?
#1
Time to decontaminated and re-wax - Advices?
Hey guys,
My car is due for a full decontaminated and re-wax, and I want to try out some new products. I've had the car for about 2 years now, and I had never really decontaminated the car to the fullest. Clayed it once, and really just used Meg's UQW after each wash.
I've read on forums that CarPro IronX is the first step to decontamination
My question is... is it better to use Iron X BEFORE wash or AFTER wash? And if over spray lands on glass/plastic trim/chrome parts.. is it OK?
For sealant/wax, I am looking to purchase this. Anyone have experience with Meg's ULW
If someone has any step by step protocols to take for denomination and re-wax, please advise me.
My car is due for a full decontaminated and re-wax, and I want to try out some new products. I've had the car for about 2 years now, and I had never really decontaminated the car to the fullest. Clayed it once, and really just used Meg's UQW after each wash.
I've read on forums that CarPro IronX is the first step to decontamination
My question is... is it better to use Iron X BEFORE wash or AFTER wash? And if over spray lands on glass/plastic trim/chrome parts.. is it OK?
For sealant/wax, I am looking to purchase this. Anyone have experience with Meg's ULW
If someone has any step by step protocols to take for denomination and re-wax, please advise me.
Last edited by nathantse; 07-18-17 at 11:38 PM.
#2
Hey guys,
...
I've read on forums that CarPro IronX is the first step to decontamination https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Remover-Liter-Sprayer-Cherry/dp/B004UMB7WY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500437901&sr=8-1&keywords=carpro+ironx
My question is... is it better to use Iron X BEFORE wash or AFTER wash? And if over spray lands on glass/plastic trim/chrome parts.. is it OK?
YOU CAN USE IRON X BEFORE OR AFTER WASHING. I HAVE DONE IT BOTH WAYS MANY MANY TIMES. IF YOUR VEHICLE IS PARTICULARLY DIRTY (I MEAN LOOSE DIRT, NOT BONDED CONTAMINANTS) THEN I WOULD WASH IT FIRST. IF THERE IS A BUNCH OF DIRT ON THE SURFACE, I WOULDN'T TRUST IRON X TO BOTH PENETRATE THE THICK LAYER OF DIRT AND ALSO BE EFFECTIVE AT REMOVING THE BONDED FERROUS PARTICLES ON THE SURFACE OF THE PAINT. IF YOUR VEHICLE IS NOT THAT DIRTY, THEN I WOULD USE IRON X PRIOR TO WASHING BECUASE IRON X WORKS BEST ON A DRY VEHICLE.
IF YOU FEEL THE NEED TO WASH YOUR CAR FIRST, THIS IS NO PROBLEM. DON'T FEEL LIKE YOU HAVE TO DRY IT OFF BEFORE YOU USE IRON X, THAT WOULD JUST BE SILLY. SIMPLY SHEET AWAY THE MAJORITY OF THE WATER AND THEN SPRAY WITH IRON X... YOU WILL LIKELY HAVE THE SAME RESULTS.
KEY THINGS: MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE IS COMPLETELY COOL TO THE TOUCH, ENTIRELY OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT, AND DO NOT ALLOW IX TO DRY. THOROUGHLY, AND I MEAN THOROUGHLY, RINSE THE CAR AFTER USING IX... THIS IS ANOTHER REASON I LIKE TO USE IT BEFORE WASHING SO I HAVE PLENTY OF TIME TO RINSE AND REMOVE ANY REMAINING CHEMICAL THAT MAY BE IN THE JAMS/CREVICES.
For sealant/wax, I am looking to purchase this. Anyone have experience with Meg's ULW https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500438958&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=megauirs%2Bwax&th=1&psc=1
If someone has any step by step protocols to take for denomination and re-wax, please advise me.
THE STEPS ARE VERY SIMPLE... CLEAN, DECONTAMINATE, PROTECT. MEANING YOU MUST REMOVE LOOSE DIRT BY WASHING, YOU MUST REMOVE BONDED CONTAMINATION BY MEANS OF DETAILING CLAY (AND OPTIONAL CHEMICALS SUCH AS IRON X AND TAR X SHOULD YOU CHOOSE TO USE THEM), THEN APPLY PROTECTION. **IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO COMPLETELY DECONTAMINATE EVERY TIME YOU WISH TO REAPPLY BASIC PROTECTION SUCH AS A WAX OR A SEALANT. SIMPLY WASH, DRY, THEN REAPPLY. ONLY DECONTAMINATE AS NEEDED**
IF YOUR PAINT HAS SUPERFICIAL DEFECTS AND IS IN NEED OF POLISHING OR EVEN PAINT CORRECTION, THEN REVISE THE PROCESS AS SUCH: CLEAN, DECONTAMINATE, REFINE, PROTECT. WHERE THE REFINEMENT REFERS TO THE POLISHING OR CORRECTION WORK.
...
I've read on forums that CarPro IronX is the first step to decontamination https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Remover-Liter-Sprayer-Cherry/dp/B004UMB7WY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500437901&sr=8-1&keywords=carpro+ironx
My question is... is it better to use Iron X BEFORE wash or AFTER wash? And if over spray lands on glass/plastic trim/chrome parts.. is it OK?
YOU CAN USE IRON X BEFORE OR AFTER WASHING. I HAVE DONE IT BOTH WAYS MANY MANY TIMES. IF YOUR VEHICLE IS PARTICULARLY DIRTY (I MEAN LOOSE DIRT, NOT BONDED CONTAMINANTS) THEN I WOULD WASH IT FIRST. IF THERE IS A BUNCH OF DIRT ON THE SURFACE, I WOULDN'T TRUST IRON X TO BOTH PENETRATE THE THICK LAYER OF DIRT AND ALSO BE EFFECTIVE AT REMOVING THE BONDED FERROUS PARTICLES ON THE SURFACE OF THE PAINT. IF YOUR VEHICLE IS NOT THAT DIRTY, THEN I WOULD USE IRON X PRIOR TO WASHING BECUASE IRON X WORKS BEST ON A DRY VEHICLE.
IF YOU FEEL THE NEED TO WASH YOUR CAR FIRST, THIS IS NO PROBLEM. DON'T FEEL LIKE YOU HAVE TO DRY IT OFF BEFORE YOU USE IRON X, THAT WOULD JUST BE SILLY. SIMPLY SHEET AWAY THE MAJORITY OF THE WATER AND THEN SPRAY WITH IRON X... YOU WILL LIKELY HAVE THE SAME RESULTS.
KEY THINGS: MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE IS COMPLETELY COOL TO THE TOUCH, ENTIRELY OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT, AND DO NOT ALLOW IX TO DRY. THOROUGHLY, AND I MEAN THOROUGHLY, RINSE THE CAR AFTER USING IX... THIS IS ANOTHER REASON I LIKE TO USE IT BEFORE WASHING SO I HAVE PLENTY OF TIME TO RINSE AND REMOVE ANY REMAINING CHEMICAL THAT MAY BE IN THE JAMS/CREVICES.
For sealant/wax, I am looking to purchase this. Anyone have experience with Meg's ULW https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500438958&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=megauirs%2Bwax&th=1&psc=1
If someone has any step by step protocols to take for denomination and re-wax, please advise me.
THE STEPS ARE VERY SIMPLE... CLEAN, DECONTAMINATE, PROTECT. MEANING YOU MUST REMOVE LOOSE DIRT BY WASHING, YOU MUST REMOVE BONDED CONTAMINATION BY MEANS OF DETAILING CLAY (AND OPTIONAL CHEMICALS SUCH AS IRON X AND TAR X SHOULD YOU CHOOSE TO USE THEM), THEN APPLY PROTECTION. **IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO COMPLETELY DECONTAMINATE EVERY TIME YOU WISH TO REAPPLY BASIC PROTECTION SUCH AS A WAX OR A SEALANT. SIMPLY WASH, DRY, THEN REAPPLY. ONLY DECONTAMINATE AS NEEDED**
IF YOUR PAINT HAS SUPERFICIAL DEFECTS AND IS IN NEED OF POLISHING OR EVEN PAINT CORRECTION, THEN REVISE THE PROCESS AS SUCH: CLEAN, DECONTAMINATE, REFINE, PROTECT. WHERE THE REFINEMENT REFERS TO THE POLISHING OR CORRECTION WORK.
These articles may also be informational:
Explaining the Decontamination Process Pt 1
Explaining the Decontamination Process Pt 2
#3
Thanks Zach,
Regarding the Iron X, it is OK if overspray gets on glass/plastic trim/etc as long as I thoroughly rinse off?
Also, for proper hand waxing, I've seen videos of ppl using circular motions (I understand that this will give even and overlapping coatings), but wouldn't this run the risk of installing swirls, IF dirt/etc gets into the pad/surface?
Would you recommend going circular motions or back/forth/up/down motions when hand waxing?
Regarding the Iron X, it is OK if overspray gets on glass/plastic trim/etc as long as I thoroughly rinse off?
Also, for proper hand waxing, I've seen videos of ppl using circular motions (I understand that this will give even and overlapping coatings), but wouldn't this run the risk of installing swirls, IF dirt/etc gets into the pad/surface?
Would you recommend going circular motions or back/forth/up/down motions when hand waxing?
#4
You might have partly answered my questoin Zach..
I do weekly maintenance washes with a spray wax final detail/ dry
I do monthly wax applications using Auto Glym HD Wax (I love this stuff btw) (thinking about getting a coating but I will definitely need some paint correction - $$$)
Before I do my monthly coat of wax.. Do I need to clay bar the entire vehicle again?? Or just looking it over with a fine tooth comb for any tar spots etc. good enough and then spot cleaning them?
For question above - I've heard of people using wax with circular motions (sometimes instructions tell you to) and some people prefer linear motions
I personally use linear motions (straight lines up and down) and its worked well for me.. I'm not sure there is a "right" way to do it.. I know that people tend to shy away from circular motions for the reasons you mentioned..
You just need to really make sure that your paint is clean when you wax it.. even as your car sits after you dry it - I always blow a stream of air over the paint to clear off any dust/ sediment that has settled in that short time before applying the wax
I do weekly maintenance washes with a spray wax final detail/ dry
I do monthly wax applications using Auto Glym HD Wax (I love this stuff btw) (thinking about getting a coating but I will definitely need some paint correction - $$$)
Before I do my monthly coat of wax.. Do I need to clay bar the entire vehicle again?? Or just looking it over with a fine tooth comb for any tar spots etc. good enough and then spot cleaning them?
For question above - I've heard of people using wax with circular motions (sometimes instructions tell you to) and some people prefer linear motions
I personally use linear motions (straight lines up and down) and its worked well for me.. I'm not sure there is a "right" way to do it.. I know that people tend to shy away from circular motions for the reasons you mentioned..
You just need to really make sure that your paint is clean when you wax it.. even as your car sits after you dry it - I always blow a stream of air over the paint to clear off any dust/ sediment that has settled in that short time before applying the wax
#5
You might have partly answered my questoin Zach..
I do weekly maintenance washes with a spray wax final detail/ dry
I do monthly wax applications using Auto Glym HD Wax (I love this stuff btw) (thinking about getting a coating but I will definitely need some paint correction - $$$)
Before I do my monthly coat of wax.. Do I need to clay bar the entire vehicle again?? Or just looking it over with a fine tooth comb for any tar spots etc. good enough and then spot cleaning them?
For question above - I've heard of people using wax with circular motions (sometimes instructions tell you to) and some people prefer linear motions
I personally use linear motions (straight lines up and down) and its worked well for me.. I'm not sure there is a "right" way to do it.. I know that people tend to shy away from circular motions for the reasons you mentioned..
You just need to really make sure that your paint is clean when you wax it.. even as your car sits after you dry it - I always blow a stream of air over the paint to clear off any dust/ sediment that has settled in that short time before applying the wax
I do weekly maintenance washes with a spray wax final detail/ dry
I do monthly wax applications using Auto Glym HD Wax (I love this stuff btw) (thinking about getting a coating but I will definitely need some paint correction - $$$)
Before I do my monthly coat of wax.. Do I need to clay bar the entire vehicle again?? Or just looking it over with a fine tooth comb for any tar spots etc. good enough and then spot cleaning them?
For question above - I've heard of people using wax with circular motions (sometimes instructions tell you to) and some people prefer linear motions
I personally use linear motions (straight lines up and down) and its worked well for me.. I'm not sure there is a "right" way to do it.. I know that people tend to shy away from circular motions for the reasons you mentioned..
You just need to really make sure that your paint is clean when you wax it.. even as your car sits after you dry it - I always blow a stream of air over the paint to clear off any dust/ sediment that has settled in that short time before applying the wax
Here's a video from AMMO NYC, this guy does a pretty good explanation of when to clay
And thanks for your input with hand waxing, I think I will stick with linear motions, just to be safe.
#6
You might have partly answered my questoin Zach..
I do weekly maintenance washes with a spray wax final detail/ dry
I do monthly wax applications using Auto Glym HD Wax (I love this stuff btw) (thinking about getting a coating but I will definitely need some paint correction - $$$)
Before I do my monthly coat of wax.. Do I need to clay bar the entire vehicle again?? Or just looking it over with a fine tooth comb for any tar spots etc. good enough and then spot cleaning them
For question above - I've heard of people using wax with circular motions (sometimes instructions tell you to) and some people prefer linear motions
I personally use linear motions (straight lines up and down) and its worked well for me.. I'm not sure there is a "right" way to do it.. I know that people tend to shy away from circular motions for the reasons you mentioned..
You just need to really make sure that your paint is clean when you wax it.. even as your car sits after you dry it - I always blow a stream of air over the paint to clear off any dust/ sediment that has settled in that short time before applying the wax
I do weekly maintenance washes with a spray wax final detail/ dry
I do monthly wax applications using Auto Glym HD Wax (I love this stuff btw) (thinking about getting a coating but I will definitely need some paint correction - $$$)
Before I do my monthly coat of wax.. Do I need to clay bar the entire vehicle again?? Or just looking it over with a fine tooth comb for any tar spots etc. good enough and then spot cleaning them
For question above - I've heard of people using wax with circular motions (sometimes instructions tell you to) and some people prefer linear motions
I personally use linear motions (straight lines up and down) and its worked well for me.. I'm not sure there is a "right" way to do it.. I know that people tend to shy away from circular motions for the reasons you mentioned..
You just need to really make sure that your paint is clean when you wax it.. even as your car sits after you dry it - I always blow a stream of air over the paint to clear off any dust/ sediment that has settled in that short time before applying the wax
With my car sealed, I could probably go a long time and usually the wash process removes all the significant road tar on the car without the need for harsh chemicals. And after a year of dd'ing only the rear end of the car needed attention probably due to the exhaust. and other minor stubburn spot removals.
Trending Topics
#8
I've shared my thoughts above in blue caps.
These articles may also be informational:
Explaining the Decontamination Process Pt 1
Explaining the Decontamination Process Pt 2
These articles may also be informational:
Explaining the Decontamination Process Pt 1
Explaining the Decontamination Process Pt 2
#9
1: Foam
2. Rinse
3. Dry (with compressed air)
4. Spray Iron X (On spots that NEEDS it, I have a white car so its easier to spot)
5. Dwell 5 mins
6. Rinse
7. Foam AGAIN
8. Hand wash
9. Dry again
10. Clay, if needed
11. Wax/Seal
Seems tedious, but I think this is the best way to make sure Iron X is completely off the car, as well as using it for its effective purpose. Any pro detailer, please correct my steps if there is any.
Zach mentioned that you can spray Iron X on a dry car (if not too dirty) before a wash. But, I read that its better on a clean/dry car. But up to you.
#10
Regarding the Iron X, it is OK if overspray gets on glass/plastic trim/etc as long as I thoroughly rinse off?
Also, for proper hand waxing, I've seen videos of ppl using circular motions (I understand that this will give even and overlapping coatings), but wouldn't this run the risk of installing swirls, IF dirt/etc gets into the pad/surface?
Would you recommend going circular motions or back/forth/up/down motions when hand waxing?
Also, for proper hand waxing, I've seen videos of ppl using circular motions (I understand that this will give even and overlapping coatings), but wouldn't this run the risk of installing swirls, IF dirt/etc gets into the pad/surface?
Would you recommend going circular motions or back/forth/up/down motions when hand waxing?
Wax in straight line motions using very little pressure. The application of wax has been a mystery to many vehicle owners for all of time... all you need to do is spread the product onto the paint. Making small circles with pressure (ie "buffing") does nothing when using a pure wax or sealant. Don't trust Mr. Miyagi for everything
I was actually reading up on this. I think the best way to prevent this is spray ONLY on spots deemed necessary with iron particles. Also, rewash or wash the vechcile again if you haven't already. This is my game plan:
1: Foam
2. Rinse
3. Dry (with compressed air)
4. Spray Iron X (On spots that NEEDS it, I have a white car so its easier to spot)
5. Dwell 5 mins
6. Rinse
7. Foam AGAIN
8. Hand wash
9. Dry again
10. Clay, if needed
11. Wax/Seal
Seems tedious, but I think this is the best way to make sure Iron X is completely off the car, as well as using it for its effective purpose. Any pro detailer, please correct my steps if there is any.
Zach mentioned that you can spray Iron X on a dry car (if not too dirty) before a wash. But, I read that its better on a clean/dry car. But up to you.
1: Foam
2. Rinse
3. Dry (with compressed air)
4. Spray Iron X (On spots that NEEDS it, I have a white car so its easier to spot)
5. Dwell 5 mins
6. Rinse
7. Foam AGAIN
8. Hand wash
9. Dry again
10. Clay, if needed
11. Wax/Seal
Seems tedious, but I think this is the best way to make sure Iron X is completely off the car, as well as using it for its effective purpose. Any pro detailer, please correct my steps if there is any.
Zach mentioned that you can spray Iron X on a dry car (if not too dirty) before a wash. But, I read that its better on a clean/dry car. But up to you.
The following users liked this post:
nathantse (07-25-17)
#11
Thanks Zach for the information.
Took me a good 4 hours to complete this project.. Wash, Dry, IronX, Wash, Dry, Clay, Waxed, Windows.
Just curious what results other white car owners have... The paint is forsure slicker and much softer, but the "gloss" and "reflection" is only a tad better than before.
(I still see my reflection, but its not nearly as good as a freshly waxed black car)
Took me a good 4 hours to complete this project.. Wash, Dry, IronX, Wash, Dry, Clay, Waxed, Windows.
Just curious what results other white car owners have... The paint is forsure slicker and much softer, but the "gloss" and "reflection" is only a tad better than before.
(I still see my reflection, but its not nearly as good as a freshly waxed black car)
#12
have you thought about ceramic coating? I've had it on my 3IS for over 3 years now and i just recently started seeing it not bead off water as well as it used to. I've been meaning to do a complete detail on my car but it's been so hot lately in socal.
#13
I've read that Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax can last up to 6-9 months (This the stuff I just put on today). It does gives a good shine, and hopefully repels some dirt/etc. But, I do like that ceramic coating acts like another clear coat, which can take some minor damage.
#14
yea the prep work can be labor intensive, but i'd say you did more than half the work already with your decontamination process. You just need to do paint correction, or not if you prefer not to, and apply the coating itself.
I don't believe the liquid wax will last you anywhere close to 9 months, maybe under ideal circumstances? sitting in your garage and driven only on nice days?
I'm waiting for it to cool down significantly to work on my car. this heat is making me very lazy
I don't believe the liquid wax will last you anywhere close to 9 months, maybe under ideal circumstances? sitting in your garage and driven only on nice days?
I'm waiting for it to cool down significantly to work on my car. this heat is making me very lazy
#15
yea the prep work can be labor intensive, but i'd say you did more than half the work already with your decontamination process. You just need to do paint correction, or not if you prefer not to, and apply the coating itself.
I don't believe the liquid wax will last you anywhere close to 9 months, maybe under ideal circumstances? sitting in your garage and driven only on nice days?
I'm waiting for it to cool down significantly to work on my car. this heat is making me very lazy
I don't believe the liquid wax will last you anywhere close to 9 months, maybe under ideal circumstances? sitting in your garage and driven only on nice days?
I'm waiting for it to cool down significantly to work on my car. this heat is making me very lazy