HOMER350

Yesterday I got wash, clay, paint correction, polish, and polymer wax done.
Will post before/after in the next post!

I need to start hand washing and waxing the IS. Something I haven't cared to do myself on my cars for....13 years? Since I had my black SC300. So I'm way out of the game.
I've just been taking my car to a hand wash or drive through. I don't need the lecture I know/knew damn well it was no good but my time is incredibly limited. And I paid the price.

Obsidian Black IS350 clear coat was looking horrible. So many swirls and other light scratches it really had me in a bad place.

That's all fixed now, well about 80% corrected I'd say, may 90%. The swirls are still there slightly in some areas a bit but he didn't feel comfortable going any harder at it.

Now I need some help please to insure the car stays nice and minimize the continuing of scratches and damage to the clear coat.

I live in a condo community and it's impossible to wash the car at home.
The recent thread posted about utilizing a coin-opt place is the route I plan to go. Using a touch-free method as much as I can.
Any other suggestions to this regard? Without a drive-way and hose...how do you get it done right?

Can I get some suggestions on materials to use?

1. What to use to actually wash/rub the car down with? Like those wash mits, or just microfiber towels?

2. Good Car Wash Soap/Wax mix?

3. Good bucket? (just kidding)

4. What do I dry the car with?

5. Easy reliable wax? Polymer/Carnuba blend?

6. Best materials for waxing? Applicator and towel to wipe off.

6. Spray-on quick wax between waxings? (after washing)

HOMER350

BEFORE




AFTER

TominPT

That car is looking great.
Here are my comments on some of your questions, what I do. I am no pro by any means and I am sure others may have better ideas and suggestions.

1. What to use to actually wash/rub the car down with? Like those wash mits, or just microfiber towels?
I use microfiber towels or a soft cotton towel.

2. Good Car Wash Soap/Wax mix?
I use a small amount of gentle hair shampoo mixed in warm water. It seems to work just fine with a very soft bristle brush to wash off dirt and road grime, spray with plain water first.

3. Good bucket? (just kidding)

4. What do I dry the car with?
After washing with soap/water mix and then a once over with microfiber towels let air dry (I have soft water where I live, if you have hard water you might need to do more to make sure it dries without leaving water spots.)
5. Easy reliable wax? Polymer/Carnuba blend? I have tried several but my favorite, and very inexpensive, is Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell in a paste form. I usually put on 1 coat. In my '05 VW Passat TDI which has been banished from the garage (since I bought my '05 LS430) I put 4 or 5 coats and it lasts a long time, and really looks great. The clear coat is perfect on that 15 year old car.

6. Best materials for waxing? I use the foam applicator that comes with the paste wax and microfiber towels, changing often.

6. Spray-on quick wax between waxings? (after washing) There are lots of these products on the market but I do not use any of them.

LeX2K

Don't use "hair shampoo" you have no idea the PH level which means it will probably accelerate the removal of any protective coating. I generally buy Meguiar's Gold Class it has high lubricity and not expensive. For washing a microfiber mitt is nice to have.

After you've done all that work, especially on a black car, apply a good ceramic coating otherwise you'll be doing paint correction all over again soon.

Moisture

That's an excellent job with the paint correction there. Looking good. If I am not mistaken we have discussed this on my thread yesterday.

Basically speaking, the less contact you make with your paint using these rags the better. Be very sure never to use a swirling motion or you will get swirl marks. Use only side to side, up and down.

TominPT

FWIW, the shampoo (Cameo professional shampoo) I use is pH neutral and a 1/2 oz. in 2 gallons of water has zero effect on pH of the water used for washing. I tested that with pH strips. I like it for its lubricity.

laobo979

iTrader: (5)

If you can minimize the touching of the paint it help a lot kinda of touch less wash. By that I mean do a pre wash with none acid cleaner, foam cannon soap, then wash off, after that dry with a blower if you have one. If needed then use a quality microfiber towel with your favorite detailer spray after to shine it up. If your car really dirty then a two bucket wash with grit guard. I usually do a touch less here an there to mine car unless it really dirty to minimize it getting swirls. Sun Joe does make a battery power washer not as powerful as gas or electric but great for apartments.
1. I use microfiber mitt myself.
2. Any good PH balance soap work when working in the sun. I just use Adam soap.
4. Try a battery leaf blower for touchless. I use Gritos garage PFM I dry both car with one towel without ringing it out.
5. It all preference on that just like any other products.
6. I usually use after wash as a drying add. or skip depending on the wash.

SW17LS

Hair shampoo? Why do people always try and use household stuff to clean cars?! Use a good quality car soap

jfelbab

My Fav's
1. What to use to actually wash/rub the car down with? Like those wash mits, or just microfiber towels?
Sheepskin wash mitts.
2. Good Car Wash Soap/Wax mix?
Meguiar's Gold Class wash.
3. Good bucket? (just kidding)
I use two buckets one with the wash soap and one rinse bucket with a grit guard in the bottom.
4. What do I dry the car with?
Waffle weave drying towels.
5. Easy reliable wax? Polymer/Carnuba blend?
Meguiar's Ultimate Wax (a synthetic polymer sealant)
6. Best materials for waxing? Applicator and towel to wipe off.
Foam wax applicators and plush microfiber towels for removal.
7. Spray-on quick wax between waxings? (after washing)
Meguiar's Ultimate Quik spray wax. (a polymer sealant)

A very well respected detailing expert once told me decades ago, "Find something you like and use it often."

HOMER350

I appreciate you suggestions thank you. Used to work with a mechanic who flipped cars as well. We would use the hard shell turtle wax and that was really easy stuff always left good results for minimal effort.

When you do multiple coats....do you do the coats per section as you go. Or the whole car start to finish, then again, again, etc.

HOMER350

Yeah I know you're right. Maybe I'm leaning towards keeping the car with a healthy coat of wax at all times because that's what in used too. I have in my mind there is little room for error with ceramic coating, I need to watch some applications on video.
Mechanically I'm willing to dig into unknown territory more so than with this...however this has to be easier on the back ha.

Is this better than me just maintaining the wax on the car? Or should I strip the wax and do ceramic while I have the paint nice and corrected?

HOMER350

Thanks. I may look into a battery leaf blower when I move my storage until closer to home.

HOMER350

I may start with those products. I can buy locally and not too expensive to at least try. Thanks

Do you throw those sheepskin mitts in the laundry? Or just rinse out well after washes?

LeX2K

Immediately after paint correction is the best (and really only) time to apply a ceramic coating. It does take some practice to apply I first did it on an old car but it turned out great. Or save your pennies and take it to a pro won't be hideously expensive if you've done the paint correction yourself. The way I look at it is the time saved in not having to constantly apply various coatings is so worth it. I apply a spray booster after a wash most times which takes 5-10 minutes.

HOMER350

I paid to have the correction and polish all done. Although a good deal for what it was (not 100% correction but much much better)....I'm planning on going DIY from here which better suits me anyways.

I may text my guy just to check anyways.