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I think its a PAC harness. Can't recall the number but I used it on my 2021 IS350 with ML to pull signal for a JL Audio 10" I had in a small sealed box in the trunk. Worked great and sounded great. I left the OEM sub in place in that car so it was easier to pull signal at the amp and not grab it at the OEM sub connector with a METRA adapter, etc. Traded to a 23 IS350 and going this new free-air route first to see if I can avoid losing trunk space and keep it looking more OEM, while still getting decent bass.
Another reason for using the harness is so I can tune the crossover frequency a little if I want. Pulling the signal at the sub output/speaker connector will work fine - you will just be stuck with whatever frequency signals the OEM amp sends it. That might even end up a better route to go if the replacement sub (because it is free air) can't handle any changes in the frequency reproduction range. If that's the case, I could then just disconnect the full range signal at my new amp and essentially I'd be doing the same thing as you, but I will have added a complicated harness for no reason (unless I end up ditching this free-air concept and go back to a box-type application
I think its a PAC harness. Can't recall the number but I used it on my 2021 IS350 with ML to pull signal for a JL Audio 10" I had in a small sealed box in the trunk. Worked great and sounded great. I left the OEM sub in place in that car so it was easier to pull signal at the amp and not grab it at the OEM sub connector with a METRA adapter, etc. Traded to a 23 IS350 and going this new free-air route first to see if I can avoid losing trunk space and keep it looking more OEM, while still getting decent bass.
Another reason for using the harness is so I can tune the crossover frequency a little if I want. Pulling the signal at the sub output/speaker connector will work fine - you will just be stuck with whatever frequency signals the OEM amp sends it. That might even end up a better route to go if the replacement sub (because it is free air) can't handle any changes in the frequency reproduction range. If that's the case, I could then just disconnect the full range signal at my new amp and essentially I'd be doing the same thing as you, but I will have added a complicated harness for no reason (unless I end up ditching this free-air concept and go back to a box-type application
Love the explanation ! Thank you for that info good sir. And yes the sub I'm using is a 8" pioneer free-air sub. Has a good magnet like your RF so hopefully with the amp that thump gets going within its frequency.
No real progress this weekend, just some more prep. Checked to see if my amp would fit where I wanted it to go - looks good! Waiting on a remote gain **** and some switch blanks. Hoping to be able to modify a gain **** to fit in one of my open switch openings toward the left side of the steering wheel. I'm not wanting an exterior-mounted **** assembly. The IS350 has small switches, though so it might be a tough task but I'll see what I can do. I am wanting to also avoid a permanent mod to the car, like installing the switch to the center console by drilling a hole. Amp location
No real progress this weekend, just some more prep. Checked to see if my amp would fit where I wanted it to go - looks good! Waiting on a remote gain **** and some switch blanks. Hoping to be able to modify a gain **** to fit in one of my open switch openings toward the left side of the steering wheel. I'm not wanting an exterior-mounted **** assembly. The IS350 has small switches, though so it might be a tough task but I'll see what I can do. I am wanting to also avoid a permanent mod to the car, like installing the switch to the center console by drilling a hole. Amp location
Wow that amp fits like a charm in there ! I would've loved to find one that size to hide it. Oh well lol but i lile your ideas and how yours is coming along. Tomorrow I finally set time aside so I can drill the bracket to mount the sub. Then next is find a day to start mounting everything up.
Finally drilled the holes and mounted the sub onto the bracket.
Also bought new shorter screws cause the ones that came with the sub were too long and might hit the deck when the bracket gets mounted.
And I did my best on the weatherstripping for the cushion.
Everything is ready to go. Now time to find a good day off to install it all on.
Nice to see the progress.
I messed around with a remote gain control tonight. Not sure it'll work with my AudioControl amp because the gain **** is Alpine. My main goal was to fit the **** in a factory switch location for that OEM look (and make it easy to reverse the installation later if I want to by simply replacing the switch blank). If I need to use the AudioControl ****, I've determined I'll put it in the center tunnel, left side near the driver knee. There's a panel there that is easy to remove and replace if I ever wanted to return the vehicle to a stock look and not have holes. Gain ****
Nice to see the progress.
I messed around with a remote gain control tonight. Not sure it'll work with my AudioControl amp because the gain **** is Alpine. My main goal was to fit the **** in a factory switch location for that OEM look (and make it easy to reverse the installation later if I want to by simply replacing the switch blank). If I need to use the AudioControl ****, I've determined I'll put it in the center tunnel, left side near the driver knee. There's a panel there that is easy to remove and replace if I ever wanted to return the vehicle to a stock look and not have holes. Gain ****
Did you remove the metal bracket with the 2 slots on this **** ? Been thinking about doing that to my pioneer bass ****.
Started Saturday........hope to finish it up today. Took some pics yesterday along the way. Tapped my 12v switched at the cigarette lighter/12v outlet in the console. De-pinned and re-pinned to get a "cleaner" install. I decided to add add a quick-connect terminal to my remote power source. Comparing the OEM "sub" with the RF 8" I'm installing. Side by side comparison. OEM diameter RF diameter Didn't have to modify the trunk ceiling liner! My intercept harness to tap my speaker signal amp mounted in left trunk cubby
Just a quick follow up. All finished except my remote gain (Alpine) did NOT work with my Audio Control amp. I am going to try a different remote gain I have to try to salvage my idea of mounting the **** in an existing switch knockout on the left side of the steering wheel. If I have to scrap that idea, I will put the AudioConbrol **** in the center console on one of the side panels that is easily removed and replaced.
Bottom line on the performance for me is that it sounds very, very good! I've only had it in there and running for a day or so but the bass is soooooo much better. I think it is actually pretty impressive considering what it is. It sure was a pain in the butt to get to the sub, modify the mount, etc but I really like the finished product. No lost space, looks 100% OEM (unseen mods) except for the power wire under the hood, but you have to be looking for it to even notice that.
I'll post up my final comments about the gain control when I get to it -hopefully this weekend.
Crossing this project off my list. Remote gain installed. Not my first choice, but couldn't easily mount it inconspicuously without modifying the car and I wanted to avoid that. Yes, I did have to modify this panel, but it is cheap and easily replaced if I want to down the road. Hope this helps any others out looking to do a similar subwoofer enhancement. Picture from behind the panel. Only had to drill the hole, no dremel required. Easily accessible by the driver, but not conspicuous. Close up
yeh I’m looking to add some subwoofers 🔊 to my 2022 is 350 but also want a clean install. I kindah wished I got the mark Levinson sound system haha oh well
I have the Levenson system, and while it sounds good, with excellent imaging, the deep bass is not strong. I am looking to add another sub. Not looking to rattle the neighbors, but I do like to feel it in the car.
I've owned both systems in 2 different IS350s (2021 and now 2023) and I agree with @Lee3333 . The ML is pretty decent for a factory system in terms of imaging. Bass extension is pretty poor, though. In the standard system, it just seems to lack everywhere but most noticeably in the bass department. If you want meaningful bass, you're going to need to upgrade regardless of your OEM system in your IS350. In my first IS350, I added a separate JL 10" in a box and it really helped a LOT. Just about right. If you're looking for a neighborhood-raising system, it would not be it but really liked it other than the box in the trunk that just seemed too out of place on a car like this. So, for the second system I just upgraded the rear-deck sub with an 8" Rockford Fosgate sub and a hidden AudioControl amp. Love that you can't see anything aftermarket - all hidden except for a remote bass **** tucked away near the driver's knee and the power wire under the hood (neither is obvious). It sounds WAY better than stock, but I don't think as good as the JL in a box. It also took a lot of time to install. I'm glad I did it though because it looks OEM, lost zero trunk space, and added low frequency extension that the car was desperately lacking.
I've owned both systems in 2 different IS350s (2021 and now 2023) and I agree with @Lee3333 . The ML is pretty decent for a factory system in terms of imaging. Bass extension is pretty poor, though. In the standard system, it just seems to lack everywhere but most noticeably in the bass department. If you want meaningful bass, you're going to need to upgrade regardless of your OEM system in your IS350. In my first IS350, I added a separate JL 10" in a box and it really helped a LOT. Just about right. If you're looking for a neighborhood-raising system, it would not be it but really liked it other than the box in the trunk that just seemed too out of place on a car like this. So, for the second system I just upgraded the rear-deck sub with an 8" Rockford Fosgate sub and a hidden AudioControl amp. Love that you can't see anything aftermarket - all hidden except for a remote bass **** tucked away near the driver's knee and the power wire under the hood (neither is obvious). It sounds WAY better than stock, but I don't think as good as the JL in a box. It also took a lot of time to install. I'm glad I did it though because it looks OEM, lost zero trunk space, and added low frequency extension that the car was desperately lacking.
I tried your approach in my Chevy HHR. Used a free air sub, added Dynamat and accoustic packing, etc. Then I built a sub box that mounted on the drivers rear seat and would fold with it (attached to the head rest bars). That sounds great.
For my 2023 IS, I like the mid bass the factory sub provides. Trunk is large enough that I wouldn't mind just using a single sub box, not too big and an amp mounted on the box to keep things simple, and easy to unplug if I need to. Just need to find where where the factory sub amp is so I can tap off the speaker level outputs, unless they use RCA plugs, which would be much better and I could just get a Y plug adapter.
03-23-23, 05:41 AM
