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If my W58 ever decides to bite the dust that'll most likely be the route I go. I've driven a few CD09's and didn't care for them - an R154 seems like the most natural and cost effective upgrade *(but man those things aren't cheap lol).
My local driveline shop is kind of being weird about it, but I should be able to figure it out. Where do you recommend I source the dust shield from? It seems like most swaps exclude this, so should I worry about it?
I found it pretty cool that the imprints for the master cylinder and pedal assembly cutouts are already there in the firewall, even in a 2000 AT.
One thing I am kind of confused about is the clutch release hub and all the little clips that go around it. I can't seem to find a straightforward tutorial on how it is installed, but I do have this picture:
My local driveline shop is kind of being weird about it, but I should be able to figure it out.
Perhaps seek out another driveline shop if that one isn't on the same page with you. In Florida I did a lot of Google searches to find a driveline shop that not only handled custom modifications but which also confirmed they have a two-piece driveshaft balancing machine. Driveline shops that primarily do one piece shafts may not be equipped for this. Ask around.
Where do you recommend I source the dust shield from? It seems like most swaps exclude this, so should I worry about it?
Buy Toyota P/N 33146-30020 from McGeorge Toyota within the U.S. Or from Amayama if you are ordering other parts from them at the same time.
It's a $25 USD part through McGeorge. Do get it painted before installation though.
Originally Posted by xdTau
I found it pretty cool that the imprints for the master cylinder and pedal assembly cutouts are already there in the firewall, even in a 2000 AT.
Yep. It is there because the SC300/400 and Z30 Soarer were both manufactured on the same assembly line one after another. And since the JZZ30 Soarer 1JZ-GTE retained its manual transmission option all the way through its final model year in Japan and since the raw body panel pressings were not redesigned for the entire model run those blank areas for the pedal box and clutch master cylinder remained until all production finally ceased.
Originally Posted by xdTau
One thing I am kind of confused about is the clutch release hub and all the little clips that go around it. I can't seem to find a straightforward tutorial on how it is installed, but I do have this picture:
It is a tricky procedure to do. I also had a tough time with it the first time. Very annoying but it's just how it is done. Here is a good video tutorial which helped me. You need a good set of automotive snap ring pliers for this. Cheap ones didn't cut it for me.
I figure I'll list the exact parts that I bought for reference:
Driftmotion JZX100 R154 with Marlin Crawler speedo sensor
Driftmotion Oem A70 Supra R154 clutch (came with pilot bearing and throwout bearing)
Driftmotion 1JZ 19.5lb flywheel
Driftmotion oem R154 clutch release hub with clips
Driftmotion clutch line
Driftmotion oem R154 slave cylinder
Driftmotion R154 clutch fork
Grannas Racing A80 Supra clutch pedal assembly
Driftmotion Oem SC300 master cylinder
Xcessive manufacturing manual tranmission SC300 crossmember
Driftmotion R154 polyurethane trans mount
Driftmotion SC300 sound deadening piece
Z30 Concepts manual shift boot and trim piece
--I could be wrong but I thought the JZX100 R154 came with its own Toyota OEM 3-Pin VSS. Or that it could at least accept one. The Marlin Crawler VSS convertor is supposed to be used on 1986-1992 Supra MKIII R154's with mechanical speedo drives in that location. My car has one of those Marlin Crawler VSS units because I have an MKIII R154. But your JZX100 R154 should be equipped with the Toyota OEM VSS sensor instead... not the Marlin Crawler unit.
But... when I look at the transmission listing on Driftmotion's website I see they offer it with a blocked off VSS area, with an OEM gear or with the OEM gear and a Marlin Crawler VSS. I guess this is just a lower cost solution than sourcing the pricey OEM VSS unit for these transmissions. As long as they made it work all is good. I have NO complaints about my mechanical speedo gear drive with the screw-on Marlin Crawler VSS. It has been a totally reliable combination for me for ten years and going.
--The rear tail housing of your JZX100... weirdly I expected this to have the MKIV and SC style staggered transmission mount holes. But instead it has the much older style in-line trans mount holes which requires an MKIII Supra style mount and the XCessive Manufacturing old R154 to SC crossmember.
May I suggest you stick with an OEM Toyota Supra MKIII R154 transmission mount (rubber) instead? Polyurethane is great stuff but in this case the OEM part will plug right in. Then again you've already bought the polyurethane mount so it might as well be used. If you ever notice it is too harsh for your taste it is easy to change out on a shop lift.
Got my clutch pedal in today! It was a little difficult and I needed to move some stuff around, but it fits incredibly well. I bought an oem manual brake pedal rubber cover and cut my auto pedal down to size. I think it looks pretty good for being DIY. Yeah its pretty dirty right now
The pedal layout looks good! I'm surprised the spacing came out so well with just cutting the auto pedal down to size. I was going to suggest buying the OEM M/T brake pedal anyway while you still can (honestly it's a good idea anyway) but now your work has made me wonder if the *angle* of the metal is no different between auto and manual brake pedals. Perhaps it is just the metal plate where the rubber cover goes on that is different between the two versions?
Excellent work so far! You will enjoy the final result!
The plan is to definitely get a oem manual pedal at some point, but man, does it look pretty good as it is.
The only stuff I am waiting to arrive at this point is the transmission fluid, brake fluid, dust cover, and a big enough drill bit to make the center hole for the master cylinder. I also need to do my research on driveshaft stuff. A local shop told me they can do it, but they have to ship it to Arizona.
Unfortunately, I can't have my car out of order for more than 4 days, so either I find someone else, buy a front driveshaft from a soarer or mk3 supra, or just suck it up and go one piece .
I've already decided to do the swap rain or shine starting on the 13th, so I've got about a week to figure this out.
The plan is to definitely get a oem manual pedal at some point, but man, does it look pretty good as it is.
The only stuff I am waiting to arrive at this point is the transmission fluid, brake fluid, dust cover, and a big enough drill bit to make the center hole for the master cylinder. I also need to do my research on driveshaft stuff. A local shop told me they can do it, but they have to ship it to Arizona.
Unfortunately, I can't have my car out of order for more than 4 days, so either I find someone else, buy a front driveshaft from a soarer or mk3 supra, or just suck it up and go one piece .
I've already decided to do the swap rain or shine starting on the 13th, so I've got about a week to figure this out.
It DOES look good with your modification to the flat area!
On getting a new OEM one.... my advice? If you want one later on just buy one now and store it away in your spare parts. It will not always be available to buy brand new and it's a very inexpensive part that will bolt right in where the A/T pedal goes. At some point it will become a discontinued part. Undoubtedly an aftermarket SC manual brake pedal will be made to satisfy the aftermarket once that happens but if you want an OEM example just pick one up early and have it for later whenever you may need it.
Now as to your car not being possible to have out of commission for more than four days... in that case I recommend picking up another SC300 Automatic front driveshaft from a CL member here or from ebay or a wrecking yard. Then send that one out to have the modification done.
Did your driveline shop say that they could handle the final balancing once their outsource shop from Arizona gets the modified front driveshaft back in their hands?
I have found two decent full 92-00 SC300 Automatic driveshaft assemblies on eBay right now.
They said they would do the balancing, yeah. Hopefully I will have better luck with the other shops I'm gonna contact on monday.
Good Not all driveline shops can balance OEM two-piece driveshafts. One such machine that is used for this is a COETZ SE200 balancer that can work with two-piece driveshafts.
Originally Posted by xdTau
Okay, so everything arrived today. Calling a local driveshaft shop today to talk about extending my auto shaft's spline.
Emphasis mine. I want to make sure I've been clear about what specifically needs to be extended.
It is NOT the literal insertable splines on the unpainted steel shaft that goes INTO the back of the R154 that need to be extended... but rather the main *shaft* barrel of the driveshaft that needs to be extended by +50mm (+1.96"). The insertable spline section is the same length/depth for the SC300 Automatic, JZZ30 Soarer R154 and Supra MKIII Turbo R154.
It is the main shaft barrels that are different lengths for all three of these driveshafts.
I am embarrassed to admit it, but this clarification may be a game changer for me. I thought you were referring to the spline itself. I probably can pretty easily find a place to do it for me now. My dad is a long-time car guy, and when I told him I needed the spline extended, he thought I was crazy. This makes so much more sense haha. I am guessing this clarification will make it a lot easier for me to find a shop.
I am embarrassed to admit it, but this clarification may be a game changer for me. I thought you were referring to the spline itself. I probably can pretty easily find a place to do it for me now. My dad is a long-time car guy, and when I told him I needed the spline extended, he thought I was crazy. This makes so much more sense haha. I am guessing this clarification will make it a lot easier for me to find a shop.
Have no embarrassment! I have been in your shoes many times myself with projects like these!
Without a doubt it should be VERY easy for a good driveline shop to handle this! I am glad I caught your specific wording and clarified. I had no idea until that moment that you were under the impression that the spline itself needed lengthening.
Generally with custom driveshaft modifications it just amounts to lengthening or shortening a shaft or welding on pre-existing spline or companion flange (propeller) ends for whatever fore and aft applications are needed. Splines are never modified. You could take a Chevrolet manual transmission bolted into a Jaguar chassis using a Ford driveshaft and a Chrysler/Dodge rear end and still all you would be having the driveline shop do is uniformly weld on the appropriate input spline to the custom correct length driveshaft barrels and other parts so that everything inserts, lines up, balances and operates correctly and vibration-free.
Opinions and preference vary as to whether or not to modify an OEM two-piece driveshaft or have a custom one-piece made but in general you'll have the closest to OEM experience with a modified OEM driveshaft system. When you get up into the 1,000whp range with these cars that's when a custom one-piece might possibly become an actual need. These OEM SC driveshafts are very strong and they do a very good job delivering a smooth and vibration-free experience.
This will be very easy for you to have done. Although... it may still be worth it to buy a used SC300 Auto driveshaft off ebay and have that custom modified so as to minimize your car's downtime since you said it cannot be allowed to sit for more than 3-4 days at a time. I was able to leave my SC parked in my driveway without issue when I had my driveshaft length modified and re-balanced and it took my driveline shop (which was a 2 hour drive each way but I liked their work and sought them out) ) a week or so to get it ready for me.
03-21-23, 09:07 AM
