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I think for an auto-x/track car the 4.08 will be perfect for ~400hp in a turbo car with small turbo and R154. The 4.30's feel really short; which could be ideal on smaller and tighter courses whereas the 3.76/3.92 would be for much larger tracks such as the Nürburgring because of how long you could pull in 3rd/4th on wider sweeping corners and long straights in 5th at top speeds.
Thank you guys so much! I'll be sticking with the 4.27 and keep the 4.08 on hand for my eventual turbo set up. An LSD is not out of the question but will be a bit of the ways off..
My goals are to have a small single turbo making around 400 hp. I'm going for reliability over power as this will be a track car in its later years.
With a stroke of luck I was able to trade the newer style OEM mount I bought by mistake with an Mk3 style mount I needed from a local SC FB member. He through in a short shifter as well.
I just impulsively bought a #89661-24380 ecu off of eBay. From what I read, this should be exactly what I need to plug into my 1995 Cali Spec Sc300 to remain compliant. I am STOKED, my wallet is not. With that being said, I have a spare 95 Fed Spec 89661-24360 M/T ECU to sell. What's a reasonable price range? $500?
I now have to do some research with key programming (i have 3 keys and a valet +second owner+ )
not to mention figuring out compatibility of the 92 manual cluster I got.
That ECU sounds correct. Check the big list of SC ECUs for confirmation. If you have a 1995 CA Emission SC the the unique-to-1995-CA SC300 M/T computer is what you need for a plug and play solution, yes.
You may want to get it capacitor serviced just for good measure unless its already been serviced.
1995 SC300 CA Emission models have an early implementation of 4-wire heated O2 sensors on the exhaust manifold before it was standardized for ALL 1996 models and they also have the 3rd O2 sensor on the #2 catalytic converter under the middle of the car that is the norm for all 1992-1995 OBD1 CA Emission SC300s.
So that 1995 only SC300 CA Emission M/T ECU is both a very oddball design being OBD1 but also being set up for all the hardware that would be standard on every OBD2 1996-1997 SC300 one year early just for the California market.
Im sure it wasnt cheap but you did well to pick it up! 👍
The ECU I picked up is actually the same part number you had for sale a while ago (I got it for 2.5x the price ) Your old post was the determining factor on if it would work.
It was only after I bought the car that I realized how specific my gen was regarding ECU.
I think capacitor and key programming would take place at the same time.
It's about time to pick up a radiator and water pump for the old girl.
^^ I am glad my old post helped you out in this regard!! Yes, 1995 SC300 CA Emission models (whether A/T or M/T) are unique in that they have a one-year-only ECU. There may have been a revision part number for it but the part number I once had and that you now have is probably it.
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I recommend buying a roll of clear package tape which you should cut into 2-3 strips to put over the original ECU identifying label. As you can already see the deterioration on yours you should stabilize it before it becomes totally unreadable in the future. Toyota chose to print those ECU labels on a kind of thermal sticker material and over time it fades and can scratch away so as to become totally illegible.
Also, take a label maker (Brother or other brand) loaded with white tape that accepts black letter ink and print out a couple with the same identifying info to stick elsewhere on the front of the ECU on the same side as the factory identifying label:
(Make, Model, Model Year, ECU Part Number, Emission Type, Transmission Type)
That way it'll never become a mystery engine ECU that no one can identify in the future. I've done this with all of my SC ECUs.
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I forget what I sold that ECU for but it was reasonable for the time and it went to a young guy who was doing the same manual conversion if I recall correctly.
I am not aware that the master ignition key needs to be programmed to any SC ECU. These cars do not have immobilizers. Some later model Aristo 2JZ-GTE VVT-i and later model 1JZ-GTE VVT-i Toyotas do have factory immobilizer equipped engine ECUs... but SC300/400's and Z30 Soarers do not.
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For the radiator, if you are planning to upgrade from stock then I recommend the Koyo aluminum model for Supra MKIV's. These are M/T only designs (which require a separate external aftermarket transmission cooler for A/T's) but in your case it would be perfect. Your stock SC300 fan shroud will swap over.
I made a step by step picture filled DIY guide for installing one of those back in 2012 or so complete with a guide to build some rubber mounts to get it at the right height in the SC.
Thank you so much. I truly would be 10 steps behind if it wasn't for you.
I'll be sure to follow your advice on the ECU conservation. The one I'm trying to sell definitely needs it.
Hyped on the immobilizer info. I was getting worried that I would have to fight through that headache. A buddy of mine is pretty confident he can program my key if needed. I need to hit up Tanin and check for pricing on the the capacitor service. Currently low on funds.
Gonna keep that Koyo recommend in my back pocket, my powersteering is now first on my list.
You'll be ten steps ahead before you know it, Joe!
I think 1995 SC key programming uses a door lock and ignition "dance" if I remember correctly. I believe we have the procedure published here on the forum somewhere.
If your PS pump is going out then try getting a "new" reman unit from Toyota or Lexus. You can also buy the OEM rebuild kit from the dealer. Driftmotion also sells remanufactured OEM 2JZ-GE PS pumps.
One thing to note is to keep the neck from your original pump. Some remanufactured pumps do not come with the correct angle neck attached but it's easy to swap your original one over with a new OEM O-ring.
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If it is your PS rack that is leaking I strongly recommend trying to go through a Lexus dealer to get an OEM remanufactured one first. The dealer is the highest quality source for a reman replacement rack, if still available.
If it is your PS high pressure hose that is leaking then I recommend removing that entire hose assembly and taking it to a professional automotive high pressure PS hose rebuilding shop. Have them put new pressure hoses with new crimps while re-using your original banjo end hardware at all the original angles. Most cities have at least one such specialist shop that rebuilds OEM power steering high pressure hose assemblies.
It's been little under a year since this thread was started and I'm happy to say the old girl has been officially swapped. I had fully intended to document the occasion, however, I was fighting both time and the rain. It took a solid 2 days to complete but I was able to make the 2 hour drive back from San Diego to LA tonight. In a storm no less.
One big curveball that I hit was my Xcessive crossmember was hit with a shipping delay. As all plans were made and I had a free weekend (wife and kid were with family) I went ahead and just went for it.
I have a few things to sort out. Reverse light wiring. Replace the janky modified auto crossmember. and seal up the tunnel.
Glad to help! Congratulations on getting the swap done and driveable for the most part!! Especially in that storm. I've been watching the news reports and getting the lowdown from friends in L.A. It's been pretty bad in some areas that see mudslides.
I took a 2 hour run to the grocery store last night haha.
Two things I'm curious about is:
1. Swapping ECU's. Im going to send my 95 CA spec to tanin for refurb and capacitor replacement. I havent checked inside yet but figure I would need to do it eventually, why not do it and put it in for good. My question is, apart from the key code "dance" do I need to be wary of any other issues?
2. I got a manual cluster from a 1992 Sc300. Will this be plug and play? I know I'll have an off odometer but that wont bother me as much as the PRND haha.
Dude - there's NOTHING like rowing gears in a big coupe like this. Excellent work on the swap and glad to hear that you're smitten with it. I wouldn't worry too much about the ECU until you have a problem, but it doesn't hurt to send it out proactively. As for the cluster, I BELIEVE it's plug and play, you'll just have to deal with the wrong mileage being shown (someone please correct me if I'm wrong).
I just tried to mount up my Xcessive crossmember. Unfortunately, the bolt holes from transmount to crossmember are a bit to narrow. I have what I assume to be an early style Mk3 transmount. No big deal, might try to get the a different transmount at driftmotion tomorrow assuming they have it in stock.
What worries me is that with the current mount, the transmission sits too low during the test fit, leaving a 1-inch gap between the body and crossmember, even when flush with the transmount. Even with the transmission jacked up to the top of the tunnel, there's still a 1-inch separation. Could cutting more of the tunnel be necessary, considering it's an extended Mk3 shift housing? Or is it my crossmember or mount choice?
Is it possible that i would need cut more of my tunnel? This is a extended Mk3 shift housing, so as I said, with the trans jacked to the top, the crossmember is about 1 inch from the body. Current tunnel opening Current tunnel opening I should have grabbed more pics, but here you can see the trans mount a bit. Please excuse my ghetto solution and the massacre of my stock crossmember
I took a 2 hour run to the grocery store last night haha.
Two things I'm curious about is:
1. Swapping ECU's. Im going to send my 95 CA spec to tanin for refurb and capacitor replacement. I havent checked inside yet but figure I would need to do it eventually, why not do it and put it in for good. My question is, apart from the key code "dance" do I need to be wary of any other issues?
2. I got a manual cluster from a 1992 Sc300. Will this be plug and play? I know I'll have an off odometer but that wont bother me as much as the PRND haha.
1) You can check inside the ECU if you want but Tanin will still do their same work and QC final inspection with their SC300 shop car at their office just to make sure it fires up their test car before sending it back to you. I always send with enough insurance to buy another ECU and send them a special request to add additional insurance for the same replacement amount before they send it out for a return.
The "key dance" has more to do with programing a new key for your Door Lock ECU. 1992-2000 SC300/400's do not come with immobilizers in their ECUs.
2.) Your odometer will be off. Tanin can fix that too and it's a common service with them. They have a verification process and can take the current A/T cluster odometer reading and program the donor M/T cluster to match your original cluster's A/T odometer reading. If it were me, considering how seriously odometer readings tend to be taken, I'd go to that trouble.
Mind you-- when you remove the cluster you MUST NOT turn on the car's ignition until a new cluster has been installed. If you do nothing will be harmed but you will have to do a truly annoying "wire dance" with the Diagnostic Port in order to clear the Airbag Malfunction CEL which does not go away even if you disconnect the battery for a long time. The airbag ECU stores the CEL in memory and requires it to be cleared.
Why this is triggered just because you have no instrument cluster installed when powering up the car is anyone's guess. Even Tanin Auto has complained about what an annoying quirk that is in a video they have showing how to remove the instrument cluster.
2B.) The larger issue with the cluster is that it isn't exactly plug and play. A couple of things are changed in the wiring pinouts and the polarity of the cluster lighting is different. 1992-1994 clusters are plug and play with those model years. 1995-1996 clusters are plug and play with those model years. 1997 with 1997. And so forth.
12-29-23, 08:10 AM
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) Your old post was the determining factor on if it would work.
Especially in that storm. I've been watching the news reports and getting the lowdown from friends in L.A. It's been pretty bad in some areas that see mudslides.
