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@LuBu
How long have you had your Acuras? Any major problems?
Have you ever driven an RX to compare against the ZDX?
I've been keeping detailed records of my vehicles since 2021.
Previously owned:
-2012 Acura TL SH-AWD 6AT, 10 months and ~10,600 miles (Sold @ 192.6k)
-2011 Acura TL SH-AWD 6MT, 10 months and ~8,000 miles (Sold @ 225.2k)
My current stable:
-2013 Acura TL SH-AWD 6AT, 10 months and ~6,800 miles since purchase (Currently @ 158.3k)
-2010 Acura ZDX, 6 months and ~10,800 miles since purchase (Currently @ 182.8k)
All of my Acura's have only had routine maintenance done. When I purchase a vehicle, I typically change all of the filters, and all of the fluids. I only replace brake pads and brake rotors if necessary. Any issues that arise, I replace or repair as needed. Thus far, with my recent Acura purchases, no issues have arisen outside of routine maintenance.
My IS F is the first Lexus that I've ever owned, and driven. I purchase a car because I want that specific car, not because I'm cross shopping a genre and its competition. I didn't consider any other vehicle when I was set on buying a ZDX. I've essentially been purchasing the cars from my bucket list from ~2009-2010 when I worked at dealerships.
Do you have a journal for your car? I looked through some of your old posts, and didn't see one.
Hubcentric rings - Do I want plastic, or aluminum?
Lugnuts - Haven't looked into which type yet.
Sorry, no journal or build thread. Some posts here.
Tire Rack bundled Aluminum hubcentric rings with my PF01's and they work well. On other setups, I have had both nylon/plastic and Aluminum rings. I prefer Aluminum because in my experience they are more robust and last longer. I have had to replace several nylon/plastic rings after tire/service shop mistreatment, to the extent that I keep spares on hand for that car. Smaller rings are easier to mangle, but the ones needed for the PF01's (460-895-6645BK) are thick and beefy, so damage should be less of an issue regardless of material composition.
I personally prefer closed lugs to mitigate corrosion risk. For these wheels with their deep lug pockets, I wanted the smallest hex diameter possible to avoid socket scars on the wheels. The ones Tire Rack sent were so large that I could barely get my nylon-sleeved sockets to work with them. Fail. I went with Ray's W171215B (17mm hex). Multeki 41886B should also work well.
Will an exposed stud rust over time with an open ended lug nut, from water and rain?
Just my opinion on the stud corrosion with regards to closed or open end lugnuts; water will still enter from in between the wheel and rotor, closed end will trap moisture, open end will trap less moisture.
I’m just going to throw a curve ball at ya.
im also 18” wheel hunting.
check these out:
Konig Heliogram 18x9.5 +35 offset konig wevsite says they’re 19.67 lb, rollforged light. And reasonably priced. At around $1200 a set.
im probably staying staggered though, so ima order these. But 18x9.5 +35 fronts
and 18x10.5 + 25 rears @ 20.49lbs
In bronze finish (I also used to have a blue STi back in the days and gold stock bbs’s looked good with blue)
my is-f is same blue now.
also take a look at motegi mr145 tracklight wheels.
kotegi has those in 18x9.5” with a whopping + 45 offset
so square set up + around $850-900 and best of all these are also rollforged and @ 19.5 pounds a piece.
i was thinking of grabbing those at first, cause +45 offset is actualy closest to our own stock +45front 19’s and rear +55 set up.
i passed on motegis only cause they don’t make a 10.5” wide for rears.
good luck.
(Btw there are guys that fit 275/35/18 square and swear they don’t rub up front on factory suspension, just someone else’s claim in wheels/tires thread, so don’t take my word for it, but worth checking out if your set on staying square)
our IS-F’s really need that 275mm in the back minimum if you’re planing to do headers/tune/intake eventually.
Just guessing, but it doesn't sound like you've driven a premier sports car yet. The IS F is good, but it's no Corvette, Porsche, or any of a number of premium exotics. It's great for what it is, but a real sports car will take it to the next level.
I've been conducting heavy research on various cars, their power output, and curb weights recently. I've become somewhat fascinated by curb weights, especially. The primary determining factor is the price point, though. For what I paid for my IS F, I doubt that I could've found a better power to weight ratio car. The C6 Z06 is remarkable, and would appear to be a logical upgrade after the IS F. Let's use the factory specifications and curb weights of the following cars:
(Previously owned. Estimated to make around ~300 WHP, ~330WTQ.)
1) 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi:
~3,260 lb curb weight
300 crank horsepower
300 crank torque
3,260 / 300 = 10.86 lb/hp ratio
(Previously owned.)
2) 1998 Audi A8 Quattro
~3,900 lb curb weight
300 crank horsepower
295 crank torque
3,900 / 300 = 13.00 lb/hp ratio
Obviously, the power to weight ratio doesn't depict the entire painting. I do know, that at least for myself, FWD will never be the answer. I'll hold reservation for RWD for once I experience a RWD car that has an LSD. SH-AWD has been irreplaceable thus far, though, at least for a daily driver in OH. I'm also curious and eager to experience how much of a difference the square wheel setup will make once I have it established on my IS F this upcoming summer.
The whole power to weight thing is why I was into bikes for a very long time. Once you ride something that weighs 400 pounds wet and makes 200+ hp, everything else seems really slow.
The whole power to weight thing is why I was into bikes for a very long time. Once you ride something that weighs 400 pounds wet and makes 200+ hp, everything else seems really slow.
The room for error on a 200+ HP motorcycle must be astronomically low. I had a 2007 Honda CBR 600RR around 2016, and I felt that it wasn't worth the risk on the street, so I can't imagine the liter bikes. I also had a 2012 Honda CBR 250R before the Vitpilen, and it was too weak, in my opinion. The Vitpilen has the perfect amount of power for urban riding.
I built engines in a shop for road racing/drag racing. We built a YZF1000 for drag racing in 1990 that ran mid 9's at 150 mph with wheelie bars and an air shifter. It was pretty fun. My roadrace/street Yamaha ran 11.04 at 126 mph with me (200 lbs) on it at Sac Raceway in 1991. Bikes now are even more crazy. My Yamaha would loft the front wheel in 3rd at 90 mph or spin the rear tire if traction wasn't good with just a hard throttle roll. I'm pretty sure a Tesla Plaid and some real exotics would make that feel slowish, but not much else that's street legal.
I anticipate that I'll be pulling the IS F out within the next month. As the temperature begins to rise, and the salt begins to clear, a month should suffice. The first order of business will be an oil change, and to inspect the undercarriage. Then, I'll order the Sikky rear sway bar, and RR Racing USRS.
The weather forecast makes it seem that spring will be in full session after next weekend. I will pull out the IS F then. In the meantime, I'm swapping back and forth between the ZDX and TL.
I pulled the IS F out today, and installed a piece in the trunk that was missing. I cruised about 100 miles, and the car is functioning correctly. The TPMS message is annoying, so I'll have to research if there's a way to disable it entirely. I believe it's pointless to install new ones since the gauge cluster doesn't display the actual pressures.
The seat is the aspect that must be affecting my perception. The seat in the IS F is planted, and has no slop/sway from its position. This is why the car doesn't seem to feel as fast as the speedometer indicates. I'm planted in the same position throughout the entire driving experience. In the TL and ZDX, there is movement in the seat during acceleration and hard turns.
Next tasks will be an oil change, and to swap out the driver's side exhaust garnish.
I finally inspected the AFE air filter, and it still looks new. If I'm not lazy tomorrow, I'll remove the rear bumper to replace the exhaust garnish, and swap the muffler delete in. Tonight, though, I'm going for a long cruise for several hundred miles, at the very least.
It seems that the simplest solution to the TPMS issue to actually replace the TMPS sensor... I don't want to alter any wiring.
02-25-24, 04:18 PM
