2002 gs430
#137
Racer
iTrader: (3)
Perusing Japan auctions while bored at work on a payday is a surefire way to blow through my paycheck I won auctions for a brand new OEM grey domelight surround with sunglasses holder and an OEM double-din radio surround. Also in progress are a brand new body color matched Tom's grille and set of used TRD struts with Sportivo springs. While I find the ride quality of the black TRD springs to be fine for the drop, wifey doesn't like riding in my car and I need her to be comfortable in it so she can drive it whenever I take hers down to work on it. I expect the Sportivos should take the edge off of sharper bumps.
So PM me if anyone is interested in buying the black TRD springs and/or struts.
So PM me if anyone is interested in buying the black TRD springs and/or struts.
See how I feel now huh….. lol YAJ is the Devil
#138
Intermediate
Thread Starter
#139
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Yeah I'm so glad I learned about it but kind of wishing I never had at the same time haha.
But Streeter won those two auctions for me so now I just wait for the JDM fairy to deliver the strut/spring assemblies and grille. Then it's on to swapping springs for the 3rd time now
But Streeter won those two auctions for me so now I just wait for the JDM fairy to deliver the strut/spring assemblies and grille. Then it's on to swapping springs for the 3rd time now
#140
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Wheel speed sensor is replaced.
Driver door and door panel are sound deadened the same as the left side. I had to go back to my pics to remember how I did it the first time to make sure everything was applied evenly. Unfortunately, I couldn't creak proof the driver panel as much as I wanted to. The poor thing is barely hanging together as a bunch of the plastic rivets that hold the upper and lower panel and inner door handle assembly are broken. I was able to at least drive two screws through two of the rivet points to hold it better but I'll have to keep an eye on the junkyards again to see if another black interior pops up. I'd like to find one that's in better shape at some point. Plus there's also a couple little white spots on the armrest I can't get off that are still annoying me.
I finally got the last of the godawful fake wood adhesive trim off after warming it with a heat gun and picking at it until my fingertips became raw. The interior detailer was still drying in the second pic so the panel isn't actually as splotchy as it looks.
Driver door and door panel are sound deadened the same as the left side. I had to go back to my pics to remember how I did it the first time to make sure everything was applied evenly. Unfortunately, I couldn't creak proof the driver panel as much as I wanted to. The poor thing is barely hanging together as a bunch of the plastic rivets that hold the upper and lower panel and inner door handle assembly are broken. I was able to at least drive two screws through two of the rivet points to hold it better but I'll have to keep an eye on the junkyards again to see if another black interior pops up. I'd like to find one that's in better shape at some point. Plus there's also a couple little white spots on the armrest I can't get off that are still annoying me.
I finally got the last of the godawful fake wood adhesive trim off after warming it with a heat gun and picking at it until my fingertips became raw. The interior detailer was still drying in the second pic so the panel isn't actually as splotchy as it looks.
The following users liked this post:
LatinLS430 (06-27-24)
#141
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I think the speakers in the front doors are 16 ohm, but the tweeter and woofer is wired in parallel which cut’s the resistance in half. So they could run one channel to a pair of speakers in each front door, while keeping the impedance correct for the ML amp. You can replace them with a component set that is 8 ohms and use a passive crossover to ensure correct wattage and frequency reaches each speaker without effecting the resistance.
But so far my attempts to work with the OEM system aren't going too great. I was thinking those FaitalPRO woofers I linked above could have worked as drop ins for the OEM woofer box. I don't know why I thought the OEM woofers were 4" when I ordered those because they're actually about 6" so those will be getting returned.
Then I thought maybe I could drop in those Eminence woofers I bought before that but they're just a bit too large to fit in the OEM box. I had speaker adapters on hand but those were a bit of a tight fit too but not so much that I couldn't make them work. I utilized the stock wiring to hook them up which worked well except they sound like ****. I think a car door just isn't a good application for them considering they're designed for home theater. So I'm getting closer to saying **** it and doing an independent system altogether especially considering I've got an OEM double-din surround coming. That will be go on the back burner though after my recent spending above.
#142
Instructor
Actually, i didn’t realize you had the ML system when I made my previous comment. I don’t know exactly what they have going on but I would guess that the tweeter measures the really rare 6 ohms, because it’s wired in some unusual combination with the other tweeter and the center channel. The factory sound systems are difficult to upgrade. If you want quality sound, and are willing to spend a little money, there are plenty of better options. An aftermarket amp, a component set, a decent sub and some type of LOC or DSP, and it’ll sound great with minimal investment.
#145
Instructor
Wheel speed sensor is replaced.
Driver door and door panel are sound deadened the same as the left side. I had to go back to my pics to remember how I did it the first time to make sure everything was applied evenly. Unfortunately, I couldn't creak proof the driver panel as much as I wanted to. The poor thing is barely hanging together as a bunch of the plastic rivets that hold the upper and lower panel and inner door handle assembly are broken. I was able to at least drive two screws through two of the rivet points to hold it better but I'll have to keep an eye on the junkyards again to see if another black interior pops up. I'd like to find one that's in better shape at some point. Plus there's also a couple little white spots on the armrest I can't get off that are still annoying me.
I finally got the last of the godawful fake wood adhesive trim off after warming it with a heat gun and picking at it until my fingertips became raw. The interior detailer was still drying in the second pic so the panel isn't actually as splotchy as it looks.
Driver door and door panel are sound deadened the same as the left side. I had to go back to my pics to remember how I did it the first time to make sure everything was applied evenly. Unfortunately, I couldn't creak proof the driver panel as much as I wanted to. The poor thing is barely hanging together as a bunch of the plastic rivets that hold the upper and lower panel and inner door handle assembly are broken. I was able to at least drive two screws through two of the rivet points to hold it better but I'll have to keep an eye on the junkyards again to see if another black interior pops up. I'd like to find one that's in better shape at some point. Plus there's also a couple little white spots on the armrest I can't get off that are still annoying me.
I finally got the last of the godawful fake wood adhesive trim off after warming it with a heat gun and picking at it until my fingertips became raw. The interior detailer was still drying in the second pic so the panel isn't actually as splotchy as it looks.
Even the discoloration on the leather can also be repaired fairly easily and with minimal expense.
If you have any questions about this, send me a DM and I can point you in the right direction for some solutions.
#147
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Heat dome in the southeast = working in the air cooled garage.
Got some goodies in anticipation of redoing the stereo.
Thus far I've replaced the 8 gauge wiring I originally ran from the engine bay through the dash with 4 gauge so I have the power bandwith to amp both components and a sub. It terminates behind the glove box. I'm going to run a distro block there to split off 8 gauge to a future amp in the trunk for a sub and an amp for components which I'll hopefully be able to stash in the CD changer box after I gutted it:
Then I deadened the rear right door using slightly different methods from the front:
Deadener on the inside of the exterior skin
Followed by closed cell foam
Won't be running rear speakers so I kind of closed off the opening with more foam
Additional deadening on the interior skin (vapor barrier reinstalled after of course)
Before door panel
Added deadener and all push pins replaced
Topped with foam
Complete
Got some goodies in anticipation of redoing the stereo.
Thus far I've replaced the 8 gauge wiring I originally ran from the engine bay through the dash with 4 gauge so I have the power bandwith to amp both components and a sub. It terminates behind the glove box. I'm going to run a distro block there to split off 8 gauge to a future amp in the trunk for a sub and an amp for components which I'll hopefully be able to stash in the CD changer box after I gutted it:
Then I deadened the rear right door using slightly different methods from the front:
Deadener on the inside of the exterior skin
Followed by closed cell foam
Won't be running rear speakers so I kind of closed off the opening with more foam
Additional deadening on the interior skin (vapor barrier reinstalled after of course)
Before door panel
Added deadener and all push pins replaced
Topped with foam
Complete
The following users liked this post:
LatinLS430 (06-27-24)