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Old 01-26-08, 08:51 AM
  #46  
Curry
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Oil came out looking normal.





Old 01-26-08, 11:29 AM
  #47  
Curry
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Just finished pulling the plugs...

Cylinder 1 and 2 FULL of oil....

3, 4, 5 and 6 all had oil too but not as much as 1 and 2.

Going to clean up a little and proceed to pull off the valve cover gasket. Once thats done Ill clean up some more.










Last edited by Curry; 01-26-08 at 11:36 AM.
Old 01-26-08, 11:40 AM
  #48  
100mgbluep
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valve covers leaking on the inside wall?
Old 01-26-08, 11:49 AM
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Blizzy
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Curry...this is one hell of a project. It will be very rewarding once you are done and torching the streets with a car that you fully brought back to life.

It is good to see you back with an SC in hand.
Old 01-26-08, 12:43 PM
  #50  
Curry
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It is. lol.

I'll just be glad when the motor is running right again.
Old 01-26-08, 01:56 PM
  #51  
Lex-Fiend
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From the looks of it so far, this car is going to be like brand new, how long do you think it will take?
Old 01-26-08, 02:07 PM
  #52  
Curry
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I'm hoping by the end of next week to have the motor up and running 100% Maybe earlier if things go well and the weather cooperates.
Old 01-26-08, 02:22 PM
  #53  
ram3ez
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Originally Posted by Curry
I'm hoping by the end of next week to have the motor up and running 100% Maybe earlier if things go well and the weather cooperates.
GL I jus read through all this thread and some of the others. I think the color combo you have is pretty rare but hey on working on your car outside in nyc weather. For the past 2 days I've been going out almost starting to work on my car and then chickening back into my blanket and bed. Im sure you feel the same way lol
Old 01-26-08, 04:07 PM
  #54  
Curry
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Thanks,

I know what you mean man, I keep trying to run back inside but I push myself to keep going otherwise its never gonna get done lol.

I just wrapped it up for today. I got quite a bit of work done.

- Changed the wheels on the car to some better looking stockers
- Installed a new distributor rotor
- Removed the Throttle body
- Removed the Y on the intake manifold
- Drained the oil
- Bunch of random stuff in between

For tomorrow:

- Finish the EGR delete
- Finish coolant bypass
- Clean up the valve cover and anywhere else that has oil
- Install the valve cover gasket
- Clean up the plug holes

While trying to get that EGR piece out I just got frustrated with it and ended up using the sawzall on it. LOL. It did work and nothing else got damaged thankfully.

I hope to god I know where all those vacuum lines go back. When I was done it was just a mess of them...

Last edited by Curry; 01-26-08 at 05:07 PM.
Old 01-26-08, 10:42 PM
  #55  
100mgbluep
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Lol, i told you that you would end up hating the egr You dont need those vacuum lines dude. Just block all of them off except the one to the butterfly on the runners, the one for the stock fpr, and the one in front for the downshifter thingy. Cleans up the bay a lot and allows you to remove the whole hose kit under the y plenum.
Old 01-26-08, 10:48 PM
  #56  
Curry
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Ok ill work on that as well. But yea im tearing out all the egr crap for sure.
Old 01-27-08, 12:57 AM
  #57  
TURBO819
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Curry I saw Travis on Friday and he told my about your SC400. I was reading your POST and did not put two and two together. Sorry to hear about that. You and Travis came to my house to pick up Travis's car. So here is the deal I have a good head and all the stuff to get you up an running. The whole upper engine it had 74K on it. Take a ride out and it's your. If I got it and you need it. It's yours. Stop killing yourself it free. Travis has my number.


Just put on the new parts you got and move onto the next part of your project

Everything I need to tune this motor up has been ordered.

1. Complete gasket and seal kit from mark (1.3MM Steel head gasket for turbo included)

2. ARP Studs

3. Water Pump + timing belt

4. Other tune up supplies

Last edited by TURBO819; 01-27-08 at 01:00 AM.
Old 01-27-08, 01:19 AM
  #58  
TURBO819
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Default Factory Spec.

Originally Posted by Curry
Ok ill work on that as well. But yea im tearing out all the egr crap for sure.
I think that all those items were put on the engine for a reason that is why modern engines get over 200k with on time maintenance. Just get the engine to factory spec.
1.EGR
2.Coolant bypass

Since we're going to be in there deep, i'm going to be doing the EGR delete and coolant bypass.

I don't think that is the right way to go.

When combustion temperatures exceed 2500 degree F., atmospheric nitrogen begins to react with oxygen during combustion. The result is various compounds called nitrogen oxides (NOX), which play a major role in urban air pollution. To reduce the formation of NOX, combustion temperatures must be kept below the NOX threshold. This is done by recirculating a small amount of exhaust through the "exhaust gas recirculation," or EGR. valve.

The EGR valve controls a small passageway between the intake and exhaust manifolds. When the valve opens, intake vacuum draws exhaust through the valve. This dilutes the incoming air/fuel mixture and has a quenching effect on combustion temperatures which keeps NOX within acceptable limits. As an added benefit, it also reduces the engine’s octane requirements which lessens the danger of detonation (spark knock).

The EGR valve consists of a poppet valve and a vacuum diaphragm. When vacuum is applied to the EGR valve diaphragm, it pulls the valve open allowing exhaust to pass from the exhaust manifold into the intake manifold. Some engines have "positive backpressure" EGR valves, while others have "negative backpressure" EGR valves. Both types contain a second diaphragm that modulates the action of the valve. This prevents the valve from opening unless there is a certain level of exhaust backpressure in the system. EGR valves are calibrated for specific engine applications. The wrong valve may flow too much or not enough exhaust and cause emission, driveability and detonation problems.

EGR valves do not normally require maintenance or replacement for preventative maintenance. But the valve can become clogged with carbon deposits that cause it to stick or prevent it from closing properly. Dirty EGR valves can sometimes be cleaned, but replacement is necessary if the valve is defective.

Some newer engines are so clean from a NOX emissions standpoint that no EGR valve is required.
Old 01-27-08, 06:51 AM
  #59  
aliga
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Originally Posted by TURBO819
I think that all those items were put on the engine for a reason that is why modern engines get over 200k with on time maintenance. Just get the engine to factory spec.
1.EGR
2.Coolant bypass

Since we're going to be in there deep, i'm going to be doing the EGR delete and coolant bypass.

I don't think that is the right way to go.

When combustion temperatures exceed 2500 degree F., atmospheric nitrogen begins to react with oxygen during combustion. The result is various compounds called nitrogen oxides (NOX), which play a major role in urban air pollution. To reduce the formation of NOX, combustion temperatures must be kept below the NOX threshold. This is done by recirculating a small amount of exhaust through the "exhaust gas recirculation," or EGR. valve.

The EGR valve controls a small passageway between the intake and exhaust manifolds. When the valve opens, intake vacuum draws exhaust through the valve. This dilutes the incoming air/fuel mixture and has a quenching effect on combustion temperatures which keeps NOX within acceptable limits. As an added benefit, it also reduces the engine’s octane requirements which lessens the danger of detonation (spark knock).

The EGR valve consists of a poppet valve and a vacuum diaphragm. When vacuum is applied to the EGR valve diaphragm, it pulls the valve open allowing exhaust to pass from the exhaust manifold into the intake manifold. Some engines have "positive backpressure" EGR valves, while others have "negative backpressure" EGR valves. Both types contain a second diaphragm that modulates the action of the valve. This prevents the valve from opening unless there is a certain level of exhaust backpressure in the system. EGR valves are calibrated for specific engine applications. The wrong valve may flow too much or not enough exhaust and cause emission, driveability and detonation problems.

EGR valves do not normally require maintenance or replacement for preventative maintenance. But the valve can become clogged with carbon deposits that cause it to stick or prevent it from closing properly. Dirty EGR valves can sometimes be cleaned, but replacement is necessary if the valve is defective.

Some newer engines are so clean from a NOX emissions standpoint that no EGR valve is required.


kenny go back to sleep,lol

that egr throws nastly stuff back into the intake.
Old 01-27-08, 10:56 AM
  #60  
Curry
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^ haha.

Thanks kenny, I'll let you know when we can come get the head.


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