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#8
when you lower a car with our type of suspension you increase the camber angle due to the change in suspension geometry.
#10
8.5" front and 9.5" rear. running 235 35 19's all the way around. there's a 15mm spacer up front, i had a 35mm spacer in the rear but it was just a bit too much. i had camber maxed at negative and the coilovers all the way down but they still hit. fenders are rolled to within an inch of their lives and they still tore up the sidewalls. i'm going to go toa 25mm spacer and it should be perfect.
i do like the reds, but i'm actually going to smoke them out.
i'm on megans.
#13
OK, serious question, not trying to talk smack here....
Is that good for the tires? Does it still ride and perform as well?
I don't know jack about lowering cars, but seems like you would want the wheel sitting level. I know when you properly raise/lift a 4x4 you don't want any additional or less camber than stock.
#14
it's not all about tire wear, a little camber (properly set up, on our cars it's about -1.8-2 front and -1.5-1.8 in the rear) on a ropped car greatly increases cornering capability. now, the reason you seee people like me and other running really aggressive wheels, we need a decent bit more camber in order to fit the wheels into the fenders decently. personally i'm not a huge fan of the boso-style ridiculous amounts of camber, and just use enough camber to clear. in my case, i can set all the OE-camber adjustments to positive, and still end up with ~-2 and -3 front and rear.
ride and performance are fine, understeers a little bit because of the extra camber in the rear, but factory stock did the same thing because the car's so front heavy, always takes a tap on the brakes to get some weight into the front for better turn in.
tires wear a little faster, depends on how much camber you have. camber only becomes a problem when you don't rotate or flip the tires, if you do you're generally alright.
Camber isn't nearly as hard on tires as people make it out to be, it's TOE that completely EATS tires.
ride and performance are fine, understeers a little bit because of the extra camber in the rear, but factory stock did the same thing because the car's so front heavy, always takes a tap on the brakes to get some weight into the front for better turn in.
tires wear a little faster, depends on how much camber you have. camber only becomes a problem when you don't rotate or flip the tires, if you do you're generally alright.
Camber isn't nearly as hard on tires as people make it out to be, it's TOE that completely EATS tires.
#15
Yea, toe will eat a set of front tires for lunch!
I need to remove my rear wheels to look at the suspension set-up. So i guess when you lower one of these vehicles the kit does not supply either a shorter lower arm or longer upper arm? Again, i need to pull the wheel to see if i'm talking correctly because im used to suspension geometry on solid axle 4x4 stuff.
Car suspension is new to me.
I need to remove my rear wheels to look at the suspension set-up. So i guess when you lower one of these vehicles the kit does not supply either a shorter lower arm or longer upper arm? Again, i need to pull the wheel to see if i'm talking correctly because im used to suspension geometry on solid axle 4x4 stuff.
Car suspension is new to me.