Biggu

iTrader: (12)

So people keep *****ing at me to get this done and im just flat out lazy now from working on everyone elses car now. with that said though I have made some progress, I finished all the lines for the fuel tank, bolted the tank back into place and as well finished wiring the fuel pumps in. I also mounted the battery box down into place.

I found out I will need to lower the radiator down because It doesent look like the cap will fit with the hood down. Thats not much of an issue, just more custom **** ill need to do.

I need to get a ANL or ANF fuse holder, Any one know the best place to get a good quality one with 150a fuse link? best buy looks like they carry them but i have no idea where else to go to get them

excuse the ****ty pictures, all i had was my phone.







I dont think I have any pictures of this but I had a 90 degree fitting welded to the turbo outlet so all I need to do is run the intercooler piping.

Does anyone know where I can get a 5 ply silicone coupling that 15 degree bend or so? I might just need to get some inter cooler piping bent to the correct shape to get it to work correctly

so things to do to get this car to fire up will be to finish the wiring to the battery including fuse links, finish the fuse links for the power to the relays to the fuel pump, finish the grounds to the relay, finish modifying the downpipe and exhaust to fit up, make intercooler piping, buy a BOV, finish vacuum lines to bov/ wastegate and it should be ready to go.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

this looks sweet man.

that short IC piping will be nice, but aren't you concerned with airflow to to the radiator?

is that an engine oil cooler and a PS oil cooler you have in the front there?

good2go

iTrader: (6)

Google and internet order are your best friends there. They're cheaper, no tax, and ship in small (inexpensive) packaging.

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

Air flow is one thing that people keep bringing up but the whole front end will be ducted off to allow air to go to its respected areas and those areas alone. I understand air is like a fluid that will take a path of least resistance but those im not worried about. With the massive fans that will be behind the radiator any air will be pulled all the way through it. Im not planning on having any issues once its ducted out but theres always that chance. Plans always change for a reason.

That is a engine cooler and PS cooler. I may be getting a taller oil cooler for extra cooling but we will see what temps are like.

DealMkr

I'm glad to see you update your build thread here. On OD it seems to be slacking haha. Anyways if there is anything wrong with that second fuel pump just message me. Btw I have an SC400 now

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

As a an update, The car finally has power! I hooked up the battery yesterday and was able to move the steering wheel down so I can get the dash hooked up and I was able to roll down the windows on both side so I can get in with out opening the doors.

More news, I dropped off the downpipe to moorespeed to have the Vband flange changed to the correct one and have it extended by 2 inches that way it will fit correctly. Once thats done I will have it ceramic coated to go on the car for good. I ordered a Tial 50mm BOV yesterday and I will be needing to get a dump tube either made up or order one.

Once the downpipe gets ordered and put on the car, I just need to add some coolant and I should be ready to fire it up. The main thing that may need done is to lower the radiator down to make sure the hood closes.

Its getting close and im getting more excited about it.

meangreen1

iTrader: (13)

Cant wait for vids

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

So as of yesterday the car has 3 gallons of e76, 6 quarts of oil, brand new spark plugs at the correct gap, all fuel lines tightened, all oil lines tightened and what not. Got the downpipe back yesterday from being mocked up and its going back for final welding. I tried to prime the fuel system last night however the power to the pump didn't kick on but I have all the wires behind the dash out and im pretty sure they are unplugged so the ECU wasn't getting any power. Plan for this weekend is to put the dash back and all the wires plugged back and and pending getting the downpipes back hopefully trying to start it.

SOON!!!

tk3000

iTrader: (2)

Hell Yes, crazy build man!

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

So this weekend I got the radiator pipe modified, cold side inter cooler piping done (needs welded), coolant added, turbo mounted fuel system primed the dash and all that back in.

I did try and start the car and the starter just makes a click and that's about it. Might be a power issue im not sure i didn't get to look into it. I kept trying and if i hold the key I ended up popping my ANL fuse so i need to go find another one.

I did order a ATI super dampened pully today and I also ordered a air filter and a few other toys for the sc. It should be ready to fire any time soon now!

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

So i cant get the engine to turn over at all. Starter will click and try but the engine wont budge. Ive tried a extremely large breaker bar on the crank bolt and I still cannot move it.

Either the trans is some how holding so it wont turn over or the bottom half got seized from being stored in the garage with out spark plugs.

What i dont get is it spun over just fine on the engine stand so its gotta be the trans. Looks like Im pulling the trans off.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

this may sound stupid, but could the trans be stuck in gear? do you have the shifter installed?
does it matter what you do with the clutch pedal?
have you tried adjusting the clutch master cylinder push rod? you got that crazy new clutch, maybe the clutch master needs adjustment.
also, it looks like with that clutch you converted from a pull-type r154 to a push type?

plenty of things to check into there.

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

the trans is deffinitly in neutral. clutch pedal doesent help and in neutral I can spin the drive shaft. Im going to try and drop the trans from the engine and see if it still is stuck or not. If it still wont turn looks like im pulling the engine and doing some new internals.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Ouch! That sucks in a big way man, sorry to hear that. Maybe it is just something going on with that clutch...

Good luck with it.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

I seriously doubt its an engine internal issue. Everything would have to be completely rusted beyond recognition in order to prevent rotation. You could probably drop a bottom end in the ocean for a year and still spin it over with a breaker bar. Binding from improper clearances or component failure may cause non-rotation, but if it spun on the stand I bet its clutch/trans related.