SC400TT Project Car Stage II
08-07-11, 06:37 PM
#1054
Update
Thanks Guys...Damned lights cost me a small fortune though...
Hey gang...
Sorry for the delay getting back on here...I have barely been on the forums at all lately...With the US economy being the way it is, I work harder to keep my income up, fortunately, I am with a most solid and financially conservative company which has always spent our money wisely, and invested back in our business wisely...so, we are actually doing quite well, and we continue to grow through the attrition of dissatisfied customers from our competitors, who continue to buy and merge their companies in a haphazard manner...This creates havoc with integrating cultures, product lines and in particular, billing systems, which results in poor customer experiences and frequently, a lack of cash flow. We also grow our company, but we do it much more carefully, and we are quite picky about buying hurting competitors, therefore, we are able to manage ourselves much more effectively, and we are able to provide excellence in customer service...Anyway, as I mentioned, due to my position, I can still control my income because I am on commission, but it means more time working than before...No worries...I like what I do.
Anyway, enough on that...My car, updates. I have not had much time to work on it lately...plus I had to fix the only oil leak I have really experienced...I traced it to the oil level sensor, as I believe I mentioned elsewhere...I decided to order a used one because since I was going there, I wanted to take no chances that it might be the sensor, and not the more common culprit...The inner gasket. I thought I would buy a new one until I nearly crapped in my pants when I asked the dealer for a price...$500 for a new one...Ouch...Just to tell me when my oil level is too low...Very important though...So, I searcehd until I found a used one, and bought it for $40. A new gasket was less than $2. I changed it out today...drained the oil, and it looked most excellent, I could determine no filings in the oil either...Color was still dark green, as I am using the Brad Penn Green Break in motor oil right now...I want to point out a few things I noticed...
Tomorrow, I will drain the coolant once again, remove the radiator, and add the new fan, as one of the new 14" cooling fans died on me...If this happens again, I will order SPAL's and install them.
I will post up another update when I get a moment this week. That should get me ready for the Dyno tune. We shall see.
Ryan
Hey gang...
Sorry for the delay getting back on here...I have barely been on the forums at all lately...With the US economy being the way it is, I work harder to keep my income up, fortunately, I am with a most solid and financially conservative company which has always spent our money wisely, and invested back in our business wisely...so, we are actually doing quite well, and we continue to grow through the attrition of dissatisfied customers from our competitors, who continue to buy and merge their companies in a haphazard manner...This creates havoc with integrating cultures, product lines and in particular, billing systems, which results in poor customer experiences and frequently, a lack of cash flow. We also grow our company, but we do it much more carefully, and we are quite picky about buying hurting competitors, therefore, we are able to manage ourselves much more effectively, and we are able to provide excellence in customer service...Anyway, as I mentioned, due to my position, I can still control my income because I am on commission, but it means more time working than before...No worries...I like what I do.
Anyway, enough on that...My car, updates. I have not had much time to work on it lately...plus I had to fix the only oil leak I have really experienced...I traced it to the oil level sensor, as I believe I mentioned elsewhere...I decided to order a used one because since I was going there, I wanted to take no chances that it might be the sensor, and not the more common culprit...The inner gasket. I thought I would buy a new one until I nearly crapped in my pants when I asked the dealer for a price...$500 for a new one...Ouch...Just to tell me when my oil level is too low...Very important though...So, I searcehd until I found a used one, and bought it for $40. A new gasket was less than $2. I changed it out today...drained the oil, and it looked most excellent, I could determine no filings in the oil either...Color was still dark green, as I am using the Brad Penn Green Break in motor oil right now...I want to point out a few things I noticed...
- My oil sensor and the used one I bought were identical...But, mine was exceptionally clean, with virtually no residue build up on it because I am the second owner, and I have always changed my oil at 3,000 miles with Mobil 1. The previous owner had also maintained the car well.
- The used sensor was in very good shape, but it had a lot of build up on it...This tells me the owner of that car did not change out his motor oil nearly as often as he probably should. I cleaned it up, oiled it up, installed the new rubber gasket, and installed it.
- Another note was that I was able to twist the top pf my oil sensor back and forth in the aluminum housing a little bit...This is why I searched for another sensor, as I wondered if this would be a source for a small leak, as my oil leak was small, but defintiely a leak. I was unable to twist the top of the used sensor I bought, so this may indeed have been a factor.
- I noticed the gasket on my sensor was a bit hard and brittle along the edges...I do not recall, bit this may have been the only gasket I neglected to change...most likely due to an oversight...
Oh well, done now. - The car has new oil in it, and it is lubed up.
- I had thought I had a partially stripped bolt hold for one of the bolts on the oil sensor, but, not so...All tightened up well.
Tomorrow, I will drain the coolant once again, remove the radiator, and add the new fan, as one of the new 14" cooling fans died on me...If this happens again, I will order SPAL's and install them.
I will post up another update when I get a moment this week. That should get me ready for the Dyno tune. We shall see.
Ryan
Last edited by SC400TT; 08-07-11 at 07:09 PM.
08-18-11, 02:00 AM
#1060
Communicate with friends
It is amazing how critical the stock set up is to ensuring proper cooling of the drivetrain of the SC...Especially the SC400. When I first started examining this issue, I looked closely at every aspect that Lexus had engineered...and removing the stock fan and radiator would mean that anything I modded would require me to pay close attention to the efficiency of those mods...I did not do so enough, I thought I had, but I had not. So overheating become an issue as soon as I placed the bumper cover on my car. The nose of the SC is not very conducive to proper airflow...Look at most cars, and you will notice 2 distinct similarities almost immediately...They all have a lower air dam section to vent air into the radiator, plus in most cases, they have a large grill that covers an area very close to the overall size of the upper half of the radiator compartment. These 2 components ensure proper air flow to the cooling system of the vehicles.
The SC does not have an upper grill, so directing sufficient volume of air into the cooling system is critical by other means...That is why the underbody panels are crucial to proper functioning of the cooling system. This becomes even more essential with the addition of
turbos into the front of the engine bay...the additional plumbing, removal of OEM heat shields, lack of room, etc, add to the need for sufficient air flow. Turbos add a whole lot of heat...even when ceramic coated and wrapped...be sure your (2) plastic side underbody panels are completely intact, and that they are installed and custom fitted around the
additional intercooler plumbing. Be sure the louvered and flat tray underside panels are installed and attached properly too as they all work together to create a very effective air compartment that not only catches the necessary volume of air needed to cool the system, but also to force and direct the air to flow through the engine compartment and out so that there is no heatsoak.
Use your underbody panels guys and gals...
Ryan
The SC does not have an upper grill, so directing sufficient volume of air into the cooling system is critical by other means...That is why the underbody panels are crucial to proper functioning of the cooling system. This becomes even more essential with the addition of
turbos into the front of the engine bay...the additional plumbing, removal of OEM heat shields, lack of room, etc, add to the need for sufficient air flow. Turbos add a whole lot of heat...even when ceramic coated and wrapped...be sure your (2) plastic side underbody panels are completely intact, and that they are installed and custom fitted around the
additional intercooler plumbing. Be sure the louvered and flat tray underside panels are installed and attached properly too as they all work together to create a very effective air compartment that not only catches the necessary volume of air needed to cool the system, but also to force and direct the air to flow through the engine compartment and out so that there is no heatsoak.
Use your underbody panels guys and gals...
Ryan
I continue to closely monitor your project. You did a great job and decided to successfully many complex problems.
High temperatures in the engine compartment you're talking about - a serious problem. I'm sure you and decide it successfully.
I want to share with you my thoughts about the temperature in the engine compartment of your SC 400.
Now in your SC 400-TT two large turbines, large radiator and engine with two powerful electric fan. They give a lot of heat in the engine compartment more 100 C. This is very bad for the engine temperature and the part of the intake manifold, which brings air to the cylinder head. The air from the intercooler air duct passing through the intake manifold will again heat up. Do you use the hood of the firm "Seybon Carbon", which has no windows in the front. Heat from the engine compartment nowhere to go so you do have two additional windows in the hood on both sides of the engine. Now your SC 400-TT needs hood firm "Viz Rasing" a window in the front. It needs to be done three windows:
A window - in front of the bonnet and 2 additional windows in the hood on both sides of the engine - as you've done on the hood of the firm "Seybon Carbon." See photo.
These three additional windows will give a large engine compartment ventilation.
I wish you good luck!
Thank you for your attention.
08-25-11, 04:18 PM
#1062
Ryan congrats on the car, getting alittle closer to dyno tuning. Man it seems like your never gonna get there. But you will. Wish you would hurry lol.
08-30-11, 02:53 PM
#1063
Update on fans
Good news, I have been able to carve out enough time to finally build the harnesses. They are completed. I simply need to connect them and install the fans. I will be working on it tonight when I get home for a little while. I will update you all how it turns out.
The harnesses look good. I used 10 gauge wire for both power and ground. I also installed a couple of quick disconnects:
I am excited about using the Spals...Best fans out there. Let's see how they perform.
Ryan
The harnesses look good. I used 10 gauge wire for both power and ground. I also installed a couple of quick disconnects:
- At the fans, I used weatherproof bullet connectors.
- near the relays, I used insulated dual bullet connectors which allow me to disconnet the power and ground quickly and easily.
- I installed the fuses on the fan side of the quick disconnects, utilizing screw down glass tube fuse receptacles with 30 amp fuses.
- Each fan is on it's own dedicated harness and relay, power and ground.
- I created a "Y" connection for the signal wire from the ECU to signal each relay.
I am excited about using the Spals...Best fans out there. Let's see how they perform.
Ryan
08-30-11, 02:58 PM
#1064
Dear Ryan - hello!
I continue to closely monitor your project. You did a great job and decided to successfully many complex problems.
High temperatures in the engine compartment you're talking about - a serious problem. I'm sure you and decide it successfully.
I want to share with you my thoughts about the temperature in the engine compartment of your SC 400.
Now in your SC 400-TT two large turbines, large radiator and engine with two powerful electric fan. They give a lot of heat in the engine compartment more 100 C. This is very bad for the engine temperature and the part of the intake manifold, which brings air to the cylinder head. The air from the intercooler air duct passing through the intake manifold will again heat up. Do you use the hood of the firm "Seybon Carbon", which has no windows in the front. Heat from the engine compartment nowhere to go so you do have two additional windows in the hood on both sides of the engine. Now your SC 400-TT needs hood firm "Viz Rasing" a window in the front. It needs to be done three windows:
A window - in front of the bonnet and 2 additional windows in the hood on both sides of the engine - as you've done on the hood of the firm "Seybon Carbon." See photo.
These three additional windows will give a large engine compartment ventilation.
I wish you good luck!
Thank you for your attention.
I continue to closely monitor your project. You did a great job and decided to successfully many complex problems.
High temperatures in the engine compartment you're talking about - a serious problem. I'm sure you and decide it successfully.
I want to share with you my thoughts about the temperature in the engine compartment of your SC 400.
Now in your SC 400-TT two large turbines, large radiator and engine with two powerful electric fan. They give a lot of heat in the engine compartment more 100 C. This is very bad for the engine temperature and the part of the intake manifold, which brings air to the cylinder head. The air from the intercooler air duct passing through the intake manifold will again heat up. Do you use the hood of the firm "Seybon Carbon", which has no windows in the front. Heat from the engine compartment nowhere to go so you do have two additional windows in the hood on both sides of the engine. Now your SC 400-TT needs hood firm "Viz Rasing" a window in the front. It needs to be done three windows:
A window - in front of the bonnet and 2 additional windows in the hood on both sides of the engine - as you've done on the hood of the firm "Seybon Carbon." See photo.
These three additional windows will give a large engine compartment ventilation.
I wish you good luck!
Thank you for your attention.
Steve your are so right on the SC looking sexy. But what really cought my eye, is that spoiler on the back. Now thats super sexy. Does anyone know what that is.
Ryan congrats on the car, getting alittle closer to dyno tuning. Man it seems like your never gonna get there. But you will. Wish you would hurry lol.
Ryan congrats on the car, getting alittle closer to dyno tuning. Man it seems like your never gonna get there. But you will. Wish you would hurry lol.
Ryan
08-31-11, 10:01 AM
#1065
I'm pretty sure it's an ABFlug wing, I seem to recall seeing ScottURNot test fit one of those a few years back...
There we go, found it: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...r-spoiler.html
There we go, found it: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...r-spoiler.html