project:Soarer
#95
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
so... my mk3 supra pedal came today.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/supramk3clutchpedalassy.jpg)
and since iam all about trial and error..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/doesnotcompute.jpg)
does not compute... a member on here waqs trying to sell me one of these for $150.00. i USED to drink cool-aid, but not anymore. i snagged this for 50 shipped so not a real biggie..
i would like to make this work if possible.. i see i need to drill another hole..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/hasachance-.jpg)
i also removed that damn foam foot pedal rest..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/footstopperfoam.jpg)
i need help people.. give me some insight on how to make this work?? id like to get this in on thurdsay..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/supramk3clutchpedalassy.jpg)
and since iam all about trial and error..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/doesnotcompute.jpg)
does not compute... a member on here waqs trying to sell me one of these for $150.00. i USED to drink cool-aid, but not anymore. i snagged this for 50 shipped so not a real biggie..
i would like to make this work if possible.. i see i need to drill another hole..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/hasachance-.jpg)
i also removed that damn foam foot pedal rest..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/footstopperfoam.jpg)
i need help people.. give me some insight on how to make this work?? id like to get this in on thurdsay..
#97
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here we go,
Remember you have only one chance to do it right, everything MUST be precise. I did this with MKIII pedal and the clutch master cylinder, i advise you to do the same because its only $25 at autozone![Big Grin](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Align everything side by side and mark the studs, make sure the clutch master is vertical to the pedal assembly
Drill the hole.
You want to drill it right on the edge of the pedal assembly but enough space for a nut to fit.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000722.jpg)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_000068.jpg)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000732.jpg)
Drill the hole in the master to match up the hole on the assembly and trim the extra. You doing this because the whole assembly of the master cylinder does not fit the firewall,theres a fender in the way, so it must be shortened.You'll see it down the road
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_000066-1.jpg)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000802.jpg)
Go to home depot and get you longer bolts, about 1" or 1 1/2 " longer than the originals. Drill the thread in the master cylinder so they slide in
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_000079.jpg)
Now go back to home depot and buy the bolt for the master cylinder, because it will have to be longer than the stock one. Take the pedal with you because the bolt must be metric, you can screw it on to test it.Or just bring the nut from the master cylinder.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_000075.jpg)
Grind the head to look like the factory one for smooth swivel
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000742.jpg)
Lets get inside now.
Drill the bottom hole indention first and align the big hole to be drilled. So go back to home depot and buy the hole saw to cut the hole for the master cylinder.It should look like this.Notice where the firewall ends and the fender begins, thats what i was talking about.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000822.jpg)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_000078.jpg)
So once you are done ,you need a 1/4 inch spacers to go behind the pedal assembly ,so the pedal can travel all the way down.You can use a nut, like i did.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000832.jpg)
So now bolt everything up, and put some lock washers behind the nuts, so they wont get loose.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000842.jpg)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000822.jpg)
Here is the bolt that must be matched perfect. Notice its between where the fender starts and the pedal wall assembly.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000902.jpg)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000882.jpg)
Here's a view from engine bay. The bolt is barely clearing the fender ,going into the firewall.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000952.jpg)
Steel lines can be routed through the factory hole in the fender and going down to the tranny tunnel.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000942.jpg)
So this is how much work it takes to get it done. Its up to you now, you have the choice of paying money and getting factory stuff, or more work, but get it done cheaper.
The pedal works perfect for me, i can actually adjust how much of the bite i want my pedal to have, since i have the longer bolt that goes to my master cylinder.
Remember you have only one chance to do it right, everything MUST be precise. I did this with MKIII pedal and the clutch master cylinder, i advise you to do the same because its only $25 at autozone
![Big Grin](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Align everything side by side and mark the studs, make sure the clutch master is vertical to the pedal assembly
Drill the hole.
You want to drill it right on the edge of the pedal assembly but enough space for a nut to fit.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000722.jpg)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_000068.jpg)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000732.jpg)
Drill the hole in the master to match up the hole on the assembly and trim the extra. You doing this because the whole assembly of the master cylinder does not fit the firewall,theres a fender in the way, so it must be shortened.You'll see it down the road
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_000066-1.jpg)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000802.jpg)
Go to home depot and get you longer bolts, about 1" or 1 1/2 " longer than the originals. Drill the thread in the master cylinder so they slide in
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_000079.jpg)
Now go back to home depot and buy the bolt for the master cylinder, because it will have to be longer than the stock one. Take the pedal with you because the bolt must be metric, you can screw it on to test it.Or just bring the nut from the master cylinder.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_000075.jpg)
Grind the head to look like the factory one for smooth swivel
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000742.jpg)
Lets get inside now.
Drill the bottom hole indention first and align the big hole to be drilled. So go back to home depot and buy the hole saw to cut the hole for the master cylinder.It should look like this.Notice where the firewall ends and the fender begins, thats what i was talking about.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000822.jpg)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_000078.jpg)
So once you are done ,you need a 1/4 inch spacers to go behind the pedal assembly ,so the pedal can travel all the way down.You can use a nut, like i did.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000832.jpg)
So now bolt everything up, and put some lock washers behind the nuts, so they wont get loose.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000842.jpg)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000822.jpg)
Here is the bolt that must be matched perfect. Notice its between where the fender starts and the pedal wall assembly.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000902.jpg)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000882.jpg)
Here's a view from engine bay. The bolt is barely clearing the fender ,going into the firewall.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000952.jpg)
Steel lines can be routed through the factory hole in the fender and going down to the tranny tunnel.
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss90/Garik_Axper/WP_0000942.jpg)
So this is how much work it takes to get it done. Its up to you now, you have the choice of paying money and getting factory stuff, or more work, but get it done cheaper.
The pedal works perfect for me, i can actually adjust how much of the bite i want my pedal to have, since i have the longer bolt that goes to my master cylinder.
#101
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Like i said before, iam all about trial and error. But using the mk3 clutch master was too much drilling. since i have the sc300 master and mk3 supra clutch pedal id figure i would give it a shot... THE RESULTS??????????
took me 2 and a half days and some trips to the store.
lets find out..
first you have to remove the panel under the dash. i found this dial,and these wires. is this some spy system??
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/wthdoesthisdialdo.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/speakerwiresyoudecide.jpg)
next up you have to clock the holes on the assembly. we start by removing the stock spacers. an air chizel would make life easier. but since iam a poor sob i had to do ett the hard way..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/SANY0013.jpg)
and like so.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/SANY0014.jpg)
now here comes the tricky part. you have to measure where you are going to drill the holes for the master to mate up to the assmbly. you "WILL" use the oem master template under the dash.
so you will have to clock the master in the upright position on the clutch assembly.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/SANY0023.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/SANY0024.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/SANY0022.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/SANY0021.jpg)
now it's time to move onto to the body. i said you WILL use the stock cut outs. cut away the foam real good so you can get to your work area..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/clutchmastercut-out.jpg)
the regular drill and then a hole saw set will make this a breeze.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/clutchmastercuttedout.jpg)
now after the hole is made we test fit where the master will sit.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/testfittingthemaster.jpg)
after a lot of test tries, the final formula to make this work is
-X3 half inch steel spacers
-x3 locking nuts
-x1 fully threaded bolt.
-x1 bolt fastener with locking clevis pin(got this from lowes).
i got these other parts from ace hardware as loews bolt selection sucked.
the only real problem was on the left side on the assmebly after it was mounted. seems only a thin walled 13mm socket would clear to tighten it down. so i used a spacer to make the head of the nut more easier to reach.
pictured below is the extended bolt i brought. you only need one side as the left is harder to get to and appears to have less thread head(on the regular bolt) than the extended one..
you will put the nut on once the master is on the wall.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/longerbolt.jpg)
the next problem is the pedal main spring was brushing against these wires. can't move the fuse box so time to improvise..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/wireclearance.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/wireclear2.jpg)
AND THE FINISHED PRODUCT!!!!(FOR NOW).
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/finalmastermount.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/finalpedalfitting.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/finalpetalfitting2.jpg)
well the verdict is??? the mk3 supra clutch pedal will fit. some mods but better with a sc300 master cyl. the pedal does go all the way down to the floor. why??? because there is no pressure line or fluid hooked up. iam confident i have enough pedal travel for the clutch engage.
if not i will just make the contact bolt longer. i plan on cutting off the brake pedal to make more room and space the clutch pedal....
took me 2 and a half days and some trips to the store.
lets find out..
first you have to remove the panel under the dash. i found this dial,and these wires. is this some spy system??
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/wthdoesthisdialdo.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/speakerwiresyoudecide.jpg)
next up you have to clock the holes on the assembly. we start by removing the stock spacers. an air chizel would make life easier. but since iam a poor sob i had to do ett the hard way..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/SANY0013.jpg)
and like so.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/SANY0014.jpg)
now here comes the tricky part. you have to measure where you are going to drill the holes for the master to mate up to the assmbly. you "WILL" use the oem master template under the dash.
so you will have to clock the master in the upright position on the clutch assembly.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/SANY0023.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/SANY0024.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/SANY0022.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/SANY0021.jpg)
now it's time to move onto to the body. i said you WILL use the stock cut outs. cut away the foam real good so you can get to your work area..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/clutchmastercut-out.jpg)
the regular drill and then a hole saw set will make this a breeze.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/clutchmastercuttedout.jpg)
now after the hole is made we test fit where the master will sit.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/testfittingthemaster.jpg)
after a lot of test tries, the final formula to make this work is
-X3 half inch steel spacers
-x3 locking nuts
-x1 fully threaded bolt.
-x1 bolt fastener with locking clevis pin(got this from lowes).
i got these other parts from ace hardware as loews bolt selection sucked.
the only real problem was on the left side on the assmebly after it was mounted. seems only a thin walled 13mm socket would clear to tighten it down. so i used a spacer to make the head of the nut more easier to reach.
pictured below is the extended bolt i brought. you only need one side as the left is harder to get to and appears to have less thread head(on the regular bolt) than the extended one..
you will put the nut on once the master is on the wall.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/longerbolt.jpg)
the next problem is the pedal main spring was brushing against these wires. can't move the fuse box so time to improvise..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/wireclearance.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/wireclear2.jpg)
AND THE FINISHED PRODUCT!!!!(FOR NOW).
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/finalmastermount.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/finalpedalfitting.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/finalpetalfitting2.jpg)
well the verdict is??? the mk3 supra clutch pedal will fit. some mods but better with a sc300 master cyl. the pedal does go all the way down to the floor. why??? because there is no pressure line or fluid hooked up. iam confident i have enough pedal travel for the clutch engage.
if not i will just make the contact bolt longer. i plan on cutting off the brake pedal to make more room and space the clutch pedal....
Last edited by megamax; 01-03-12 at 07:08 PM.
#102
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
so now since iam under the dash i go to install my camry throttle cable.. i get under the dash on the console side. and i see this black box ziptied to a bar. wait they don't ziptie stuff like that from the factory. behold there is an alarm system
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/alarmbrain.jpg)
who ever installd this was very detailed. and there is a cluster **** of wires under this dash. i would not want to wire in an alarm system looking at all that crap....
so the camry throttle cable really is longer(duh).
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/camryt-cableleftsc400.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/t-cables2.jpg)
so guyz??? what is this, a speed limiter?? it has a wire comming out of it.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/speedlimiter-.jpg)
so i take the center console apart. and ive never seen som many damn plugs on one unit before??? wtf do all these plugs go to? removed the car phone charger, and finally the damn auto shifter. the far is finally getting a 5spd personality..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/somanydamnplugs.jpg)
iam selling my oem machima stero. it works. $50.00+ship
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/makachooichieforsale.jpg)
so i checked on the fuel tank, now mind you this car has been sitting for a year and a half +. so the fuel is poo brown(not doo-doo brown, just light poo). and the fuel pump looks like a wally. i thought a big v8 would have a larger oem unit?
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/brownpeeinthefueltank.jpg)
and finally i got the centr console off. can someone tell me how much and where i have to cut for the shifter??? iam using a sc300 w58 1993 approx. so i don't have the super extended handle.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/centerconsoleremoved.jpg)
so next up is removing the bumper cover. then it's back to work on the engine..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/alarmbrain.jpg)
who ever installd this was very detailed. and there is a cluster **** of wires under this dash. i would not want to wire in an alarm system looking at all that crap....
so the camry throttle cable really is longer(duh).
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/camryt-cableleftsc400.jpg)
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/t-cables2.jpg)
so guyz??? what is this, a speed limiter?? it has a wire comming out of it.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/speedlimiter-.jpg)
so i take the center console apart. and ive never seen som many damn plugs on one unit before??? wtf do all these plugs go to? removed the car phone charger, and finally the damn auto shifter. the far is finally getting a 5spd personality..
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/somanydamnplugs.jpg)
iam selling my oem machima stero. it works. $50.00+ship
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/makachooichieforsale.jpg)
so i checked on the fuel tank, now mind you this car has been sitting for a year and a half +. so the fuel is poo brown(not doo-doo brown, just light poo). and the fuel pump looks like a wally. i thought a big v8 would have a larger oem unit?
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/brownpeeinthefueltank.jpg)
and finally i got the centr console off. can someone tell me how much and where i have to cut for the shifter??? iam using a sc300 w58 1993 approx. so i don't have the super extended handle.
![](http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/supersayianjim/lex%20file/centerconsoleremoved.jpg)
so next up is removing the bumper cover. then it's back to work on the engine..
Last edited by megamax; 01-03-12 at 07:11 PM.
#104
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
dang that looks like a lot of work! all of that time and modifying just to put in a clutch pedal from a 3rd Gen supra is easier than just spending the money and getting a proper Jzz31 clutch pedal?
its not even that expensive. im just sayin. tryin to avoid frustration. got more than enough gray hair on my head and im not to my mid 30s yet
its not even that expensive. im just sayin. tryin to avoid frustration. got more than enough gray hair on my head and im not to my mid 30s yet
#105
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Its really not that hard really. And the labor once u know exactly is well under 300 beans. This is for people on a budgt. Or if u rather spend the money on another mod or if u have this pedal laying around. I spent a total of 60 beans. Meaning I saved 240 plus. That's something to shake your stick at.