2Gen GS300...LS2 6-Speed Build Thread
#196
I will get it to work eventually using the GM sensor. I have some very smart friends who are going to make me a converter box so the gauge will read properly and I can adjust the temp range!
You mean your going to go for something similar to the way I molded mine? I thought about modifying the shifter to come through the stock hole like you've done but then decided not to as the cupholder assembly is to deep anyway and is still in the way below which it why I guess yours are missing also even though you moved the shifter over.
I'll tell you what though, I MISS MY CUPHOLDERS!!!! I never realized how much I used them until I had none. Best I can do now it flip the rear armrest down and reach back to put drinks in the popout holder there. Bottled drinks only these days too..
But I suppose you already understand since you don't have cupholders with the panel you have now..
I'll tell you what though, I MISS MY CUPHOLDERS!!!! I never realized how much I used them until I had none. Best I can do now it flip the rear armrest down and reach back to put drinks in the popout holder there. Bottled drinks only these days too..
But I suppose you already understand since you don't have cupholders with the panel you have now..
#199
#201
That's why I have a scan gauge and cannot be seen when the car is off. It reads like 17 parameters straight from the PCM.
#203
Wow. Just watched your dyne run... it sounds tastefully rich and throaty. Congrats on the phenomenal build thread. It has been awesome to follow your progress and see the end result.
I know you had a a lot of parts donated by manufacturers, but ballpark estimate, what would this same swap run? I realize you were meticulous and retained all the luxury features, just curious like a lot of others how practical/feasible this swap would be. Again, thanks for this invaluable build thread Mike.
I know you had a a lot of parts donated by manufacturers, but ballpark estimate, what would this same swap run? I realize you were meticulous and retained all the luxury features, just curious like a lot of others how practical/feasible this swap would be. Again, thanks for this invaluable build thread Mike.
#204
Wow. Just watched your dyne run... it sounds tastefully rich and throaty. Congrats on the phenomenal build thread. It has been awesome to follow your progress and see the end result.
I know you had a a lot of parts donated by manufacturers, but ballpark estimate, what would this same swap run? I realize you were meticulous and retained all the luxury features, just curious like a lot of others how practical/feasible this swap would be. Again, thanks for this invaluable build thread Mike.
I know you had a a lot of parts donated by manufacturers, but ballpark estimate, what would this same swap run? I realize you were meticulous and retained all the luxury features, just curious like a lot of others how practical/feasible this swap would be. Again, thanks for this invaluable build thread Mike.
#205
Did you still retain your ABS? and if so, how did you go about it? What Lexus parts did you keep or instead utilize from GM? Also how hard was it dealing with the State smog referee? Or did the Dept of motor Veh. let you go to any private smog shop and just come and show them the results. Was it a test only smog station or a test and fix?
I spoke to a state smog ref.(BAR? - Burea of autotive repair) and he gave me a green light on an LS1/LS2 ( newer than 1st Gen GS3000, and cleaner running engines so supposedly not a problem) as long as I use the stock GM emissions equipment(cat, manifold,etc). Did you run into any issues with this?
Did you have any thoughts on using the 6.0L/5.3L truck motor[LQ4](-Iron Block, 60% cheaper than LS1). Did you not go that route because there is a chance the smog referee would not pass it due to it being from a truck? Or was it because there was more assistance and support for an LS1/2 swap available when needed?
Sorry for so many questions, but I have 2 different routes to go (5.7L-LS1, 6.0L-LS2, or 5.3L/6.0L-LQ4) and I would like to choose the most economical.
Any insight you could give would be greatly appreciated and I'm sure will assist several future members on this board.
Thanks.
I spoke to a state smog ref.(BAR? - Burea of autotive repair) and he gave me a green light on an LS1/LS2 ( newer than 1st Gen GS3000, and cleaner running engines so supposedly not a problem) as long as I use the stock GM emissions equipment(cat, manifold,etc). Did you run into any issues with this?
Did you have any thoughts on using the 6.0L/5.3L truck motor[LQ4](-Iron Block, 60% cheaper than LS1). Did you not go that route because there is a chance the smog referee would not pass it due to it being from a truck? Or was it because there was more assistance and support for an LS1/2 swap available when needed?
Sorry for so many questions, but I have 2 different routes to go (5.7L-LS1, 6.0L-LS2, or 5.3L/6.0L-LQ4) and I would like to choose the most economical.
Any insight you could give would be greatly appreciated and I'm sure will assist several future members on this board.
Thanks.
sorry i must have missed your post earlier.
This swap is not for everyone. Thats for sure. and its only 5 pages. you must have NOOB settings
I like the muscle car sound, however being a luxury car; I chose a different route on the exhaust to give the best performance and a quiet sound at idle and light throttle. However at WOT it sounds like a BEAST. Just the way I wanted it.
So far my coolant temp doesnt work. because of how the Lexus one works with the factory pcm. However I am lucky and a few engineering friends are going to make a signal converter box to make the GM sensor read out onto the factory gauge.
Other than that, I lost nothing. except the factory 3.0L motor
check out the link in my post above (DYNO VIDEO)
This swap is not for everyone. Thats for sure. and its only 5 pages. you must have NOOB settings
I like the muscle car sound, however being a luxury car; I chose a different route on the exhaust to give the best performance and a quiet sound at idle and light throttle. However at WOT it sounds like a BEAST. Just the way I wanted it.
So far my coolant temp doesnt work. because of how the Lexus one works with the factory pcm. However I am lucky and a few engineering friends are going to make a signal converter box to make the GM sensor read out onto the factory gauge.
Other than that, I lost nothing. except the factory 3.0L motor
check out the link in my post above (DYNO VIDEO)
Last edited by kene; 11-01-11 at 06:49 AM.
#206
Did you still retain your ABS? and if so, how did you go about it? What Lexus parts did you keep or instead utilize from GM? Also how hard was it dealing with the State smog referee? Or did the Dept of motor Veh. let you go to any private smog shop and just come and show them the results. Was it a test only smog station or a test and fix?
I spoke to a state smog ref.(BAR? - Burea of autotive repair) and he gave me a green light on an LS1/LS2 ( newer than 1st Gen GS3000, and cleaner running engines so supposedly not a problem) as long as I use the stock GM emissions equipment(cat, manifold,etc). Did you run into any issues with this?
Did you have any thoughts on using the 6.0L/5.3L truck motor[LQ4](-Iron Block, 60% cheaper than LS1). Did you not go that route because there is a chance the smog referee would not pass it due to it being from a truck? Or was it because there was more assistance and support for an LS1/2 swap available when needed?
Sorry for so many questions, but I have 2 different routes to go (5.7L-LS1, 6.0L-LS2, or 5.3L/6.0L-LQ4) and I would like to choose the most economical.
Any insight you could give would be greatly appreciated and I'm sure will assist several future members on this board.
Thanks.
I spoke to a state smog ref.(BAR? - Burea of autotive repair) and he gave me a green light on an LS1/LS2 ( newer than 1st Gen GS3000, and cleaner running engines so supposedly not a problem) as long as I use the stock GM emissions equipment(cat, manifold,etc). Did you run into any issues with this?
Did you have any thoughts on using the 6.0L/5.3L truck motor[LQ4](-Iron Block, 60% cheaper than LS1). Did you not go that route because there is a chance the smog referee would not pass it due to it being from a truck? Or was it because there was more assistance and support for an LS1/2 swap available when needed?
Sorry for so many questions, but I have 2 different routes to go (5.7L-LS1, 6.0L-LS2, or 5.3L/6.0L-LQ4) and I would like to choose the most economical.
Any insight you could give would be greatly appreciated and I'm sure will assist several future members on this board.
Thanks.
The ONLY way to legalize an engine change is through B.A.R. in California. You go to a state referee they assign you too when you call for an appointment.
You do it all right and you pass. If something is wrong, they tell you. I have BAR'd most all my cars, so I understand how it all works. Nothing hard about it, just a lot of work and to me, its well worth it.
Cannot use a truck engine. Must use an engine from a car and must be same year or newer and more efficient than the factory engine. Basically my car has to act and look like whatever car the engine came out of. Just in a different chassis.
Hope this helps!
#207
The ONLY ONLY reason why I don't think I personally would ever go down this road is because I feel the car would sound too much like a muscle car or hot rod. I like when luxury / sport sedans sound rather civilized during normal driving but sound beastly at WOT. This thing would probably sound like your at the dragstrip at all times...especially if you have an aggressive exhaust. High performance...no doubt! and I'm sure you will mop the floors against many HP cars but it is "starting" to veer away from being what a Lexus GS is IMHO.
#209
#210
1.) Must piggy back stock Lexus PCM to make the ABS work.
2.) I will document everything for a write up when I remove the ABS and all the components and go with a non-abs booster and Wilwood Prop valve.
My guess is within the next 2 months I will do the booster swap. I have a lot of other things going on.
2.) I will document everything for a write up when I remove the ABS and all the components and go with a non-abs booster and Wilwood Prop valve.
My guess is within the next 2 months I will do the booster swap. I have a lot of other things going on.