1992 "Tired of all my dailys turning into project cars" SC300/1JZGTE
01-07-12, 06:37 PM
#77
Lead Lap
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I am using a -4 line with a 12x 1.50 into the Holset.
Then connected to a 12 x 1.25 into the 1jz block.
My line came with a restrictor, but they are only for ball-bearing GT CHRAs. I'm going to leave it out.
This is a diesel turbo, so they get like 85lbs of pressure at idle!
I also got the shifter assembly extended, and the clutch pedal is mocked in.
All I need now is a Clutch Master, a Clutch slave, a line, and some fittings for the oil line and I'm finally finished!
Then connected to a 12 x 1.25 into the 1jz block.
My line came with a restrictor, but they are only for ball-bearing GT CHRAs. I'm going to leave it out.
This is a diesel turbo, so they get like 85lbs of pressure at idle!
I also got the shifter assembly extended, and the clutch pedal is mocked in.
All I need now is a Clutch Master, a Clutch slave, a line, and some fittings for the oil line and I'm finally finished!
I guess its a standard T3 adapter for the drain?
01-10-12, 06:59 AM
#78
Sven- I used the Stock Block feed, but none of the twin hardware will work, it's all proprietary Toyota stuff.
The drain, like you said is T3. Make sure its around 19mm, Holsets need proper oil management, but will run forever when you get it right.
92- Your wish is my command!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edomN...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uogXQ...ature=youtu.be
The drain, like you said is T3. Make sure its around 19mm, Holsets need proper oil management, but will run forever when you get it right.
92- Your wish is my command!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edomN...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uogXQ...ature=youtu.be
01-11-12, 08:07 AM
#80
Thanks JZBrian.
To be truthful I wanted to do this the absolute bare bones way, to see how much it would really cost if I did everything.
Turns out it came out way, waayy under $5000 including the car. I think its pretty incredible myself!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmBZT...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oxHp...ature=youtu.be
DO NOT turn your speakers up too loud!!
To be truthful I wanted to do this the absolute bare bones way, to see how much it would really cost if I did everything.
Turns out it came out way, waayy under $5000 including the car. I think its pretty incredible myself!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmBZT...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oxHp...ature=youtu.be
DO NOT turn your speakers up too loud!!
01-15-12, 12:40 AM
#81
Driver School Candidate
This is pretty impressive. I need to buy and learn to use a TIG welder (I'm decent with a MIG) and then I can start making a lot of upgrade parts myself. I am planning on a 2J NA-T conversion, looking for around 400whp or a little more. I REALLY like the idea of making things yourself rather than going with a kit - much more satisfaction at the end of the day.
BUILT *not* BOUGHT is my thing.
BUILT *not* BOUGHT is my thing.
01-15-12, 05:19 AM
#83
Mr. Tmf2004 I appreciate the kind words. Your GS is total sex, and I want it....NOW!!
From this point on I will be continuing to fix up the car, but Bodywork, Coilovers, and some new shoes are definitely in order. Time to make the car presentable.
01-15-12, 10:00 AM
#84
1JZ Single SC400
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I think I would have made the car presentable before I worked on the swap... The good thing is that if you dented it during the swap, you dont have anything to worry about... :-)
Fix all the rust, and good god, paint that thing... lol
Fix all the rust, and good god, paint that thing... lol
01-15-12, 11:35 AM
#85
Yeah, but you see I live in Maine, so fixing rust is a lifetime of effort.
We don't necessitate "Looks" over running every day. Winter time is a beast on cars from the North East.
I am happy that I have a smooth running, reliable car finally after all the DSMs I've been dissapointed by.
My build plan has saved me a ton of money and headache after learning from cars that constantly failed on me.
We'll make it pretty, I promise.
Now go start your car, the only radio you will ever need is that sweet JZ!
We don't necessitate "Looks" over running every day. Winter time is a beast on cars from the North East.
I am happy that I have a smooth running, reliable car finally after all the DSMs I've been dissapointed by.
My build plan has saved me a ton of money and headache after learning from cars that constantly failed on me.
We'll make it pretty, I promise.
Now go start your car, the only radio you will ever need is that sweet JZ!
01-17-12, 02:02 PM
#86
HOW TO WELD THE DIFFERENTIAL
1. Remove Diff.
2.Prepare diff for Welding. Clean with Brake clean. Dirt = Poor penetration = Weld will break.
3.Weld the Spider gears to the housing on each side. I use a TIG welder for max penetration.
4. Allow Diff to cool. Check for binding. Reinstall cover and fill with fluid.
5. Go out and enjoy 2 wheels spinning!
1. Remove Diff.
2.Prepare diff for Welding. Clean with Brake clean. Dirt = Poor penetration = Weld will break.
3.Weld the Spider gears to the housing on each side. I use a TIG welder for max penetration.
4. Allow Diff to cool. Check for binding. Reinstall cover and fill with fluid.
5. Go out and enjoy 2 wheels spinning!
01-17-12, 02:33 PM
#88
1JZ Single SC400
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I wanted to do this in my rear end, but people bashed me about. They called it a ghetto style job. I hope it works out for you. Chime in on the reults once its installed and you have beat it to death. I am still intrerested on how it holds up.
