Build thread - new paint and body for 220K mile SC400
09-18-11 | 10:44 AM
#46
Don't wanna know lol. 
About $150 in primer, $290 in basecoat, have yet to find reducer so we'll see there, $125 in clear so far, and $35 for a Harbor Freight gun. $433 for the front bumper, $250 shipped for the rear and extensions, have yet to find sideskirts or door moldings. Probably $250 in sandpaper, blocks, glazing putty, masking supplies, mixing cups, paint suit, respirator, booth plastic, etc. I anticipate a grand in body parts and probably $800 in paint, with supplies, air filtration and the like eating up several hundred miscellaneous. Hoping to have a really top notch paint job with the only corners cut being ones that I'm okay with, plus the fun of doing a project like this and developing a skill set that I've always wanted but have never gotten to learn. Call it $2500 over eight months or so and that should probably about cover it.
About $150 in primer, $290 in basecoat, have yet to find reducer so we'll see there, $125 in clear so far, and $35 for a Harbor Freight gun. $433 for the front bumper, $250 shipped for the rear and extensions, have yet to find sideskirts or door moldings. Probably $250 in sandpaper, blocks, glazing putty, masking supplies, mixing cups, paint suit, respirator, booth plastic, etc. I anticipate a grand in body parts and probably $800 in paint, with supplies, air filtration and the like eating up several hundred miscellaneous. Hoping to have a really top notch paint job with the only corners cut being ones that I'm okay with, plus the fun of doing a project like this and developing a skill set that I've always wanted but have never gotten to learn. Call it $2500 over eight months or so and that should probably about cover it.
09-18-11 | 11:49 AM
#47
Lead Lap
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 575
Likes: 1
From: Denver, CO
Don't wanna know lol. About $150 in primer, $290 in basecoat, have yet to find reducer so we'll see there, $125 in clear so far, and $35 for a Harbor Freight gun. $433 for the front bumper, $250 shipped for the rear and extensions, have yet to find sideskirts or door moldings. Probably $250 in sandpaper, blocks, glazing putty, masking supplies, mixing cups, paint suit, respirator, booth plastic, etc. I anticipate a grand in body parts and probably $800 in paint, with supplies, air filtration and the like eating up several hundred miscellaneous. Hoping to have a really top notch paint job with the only corners cut being ones that I'm okay with, plus the fun of doing a project like this and developing a skill set that I've always wanted but have never gotten to learn. Call it $2500 over eight months or so and that should probably about cover it.
About $150 in primer, $290 in basecoat, have yet to find reducer so we'll see there, $125 in clear so far, and $35 for a Harbor Freight gun. $433 for the front bumper, $250 shipped for the rear and extensions, have yet to find sideskirts or door moldings. Probably $250 in sandpaper, blocks, glazing putty, masking supplies, mixing cups, paint suit, respirator, booth plastic, etc. I anticipate a grand in body parts and probably $800 in paint, with supplies, air filtration and the like eating up several hundred miscellaneous. Hoping to have a really top notch paint job with the only corners cut being ones that I'm okay with, plus the fun of doing a project like this and developing a skill set that I've always wanted but have never gotten to learn. Call it $2500 over eight months or so and that should probably about cover it.
09-18-11 | 02:21 PM
#48
What an awesome build! I've been painting my some trim pieces like my lips and spoiler with my spray gun but I'm to afraid to actually go and do the whole car. Hope this turn out great can't wait to see it finished!
09-18-11 | 03:53 PM
#49
Driver
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: CO
Damn color didn't come until later yesterday afternoon, and it didn't include reducer like I thought it would. Made a wasted trip to the Springs in search of some, but was skunked and will have to try again today (Sunday). Hoping to find the right stuff, mix up some color, and at least lay a basecoat on. Friday night I resprayed primer on the hood and some of the spots that needed it on the car, and it turned out pretty well, although I need to wetsand some little nibs and bits of crap out before I spray color. Hopefully I can have some red pics to post up tomorrow. 
09-18-11 | 07:39 PM
#51
Hey how far are you from Springs? Ive seen a bunch of people on cl in Sprgs we should have a meetup sometime. Looks like your making a ton of progress this is the first time Ive seen this thread. I wish I had your skills my front bumper is chipped to hell from rocks and a careless driver also on the drivers side panel from another careless driver
09-19-11 | 06:21 PM
#53
MY CAR IS RED AGAIN! 
The white spot is where I lost air pressure and the gun spattered a little, then I ran out of paint. Had to wetsand the spatters out, as well as three runs on the rest of the car, and then I carried on with another coat:
The reason the hood is still white is because I'm apparently dumb. I missed the leading edge of the hood with the couple coats of epoxy that I sprayed on the hood, so the one edge that will be out front bearing the brunt of dust and rocks doesn't have primer on it yet. No way in hell am I putting down color over that, so I'm just gonna wait until I pull the car out and hang the decklid and doors, and then prime those and that edge together. Annoying but not a disaster.
My filters are definitely picking up some airborne particulate:
I'm in between my third and fourth coats of base as I type this. According to SPI's Perfect Paint Job, I plan to wait until tomorrow to clear the car with four coats, 30 minutes apart. By the time I get done with work on Wednesday, I should be able to put wheels on, drop it, and roll it out so I can hang other parts.
The white spot is where I lost air pressure and the gun spattered a little, then I ran out of paint. Had to wetsand the spatters out, as well as three runs on the rest of the car, and then I carried on with another coat:
The reason the hood is still white is because I'm apparently dumb. I missed the leading edge of the hood with the couple coats of epoxy that I sprayed on the hood, so the one edge that will be out front bearing the brunt of dust and rocks doesn't have primer on it yet. No way in hell am I putting down color over that, so I'm just gonna wait until I pull the car out and hang the decklid and doors, and then prime those and that edge together. Annoying but not a disaster.
My filters are definitely picking up some airborne particulate:
I'm in between my third and fourth coats of base as I type this. According to SPI's Perfect Paint Job, I plan to wait until tomorrow to clear the car with four coats, 30 minutes apart. By the time I get done with work on Wednesday, I should be able to put wheels on, drop it, and roll it out so I can hang other parts.
09-19-11 | 08:24 PM
#55
Given a makeshift paintbooth, still impressive! This is going to be a beauty once you're finished, I have faith-which guns are you using just out of curiosity? disregard the last sentence I went back and re-read I see you're using HF guns.
Last edited by lilSCsteve; 09-19-11 at 08:42 PM.
09-19-11 | 10:54 PM
#57
Funny thing about that. I have a Sharpe Titanium T1 that I borrowed from a buddy who used to use it to spray powder at his powdercoating shop. It's probably a $250 gun. For some reason I thought it had a 1.3 tip, and my epoxy and clear require a 1.4, which is what the Harbor Freight gun has. So I started using the HF and got used to it, figured out how to dial it in, etc. I took another look at the Sharpe last night in the middle of base and the damn thing has a 1.4 tip! Could have been using the nice gun the whole time. At this point, though, I'm not sure I want to try something new. I may, on smaller parts, but we'll see.
09-20-11 | 07:48 AM
#58
Funny thing about that. I have a Sharpe Titanium T1 that I borrowed from a buddy who used to use it to spray powder at his powdercoating shop. It's probably a $250 gun. For some reason I thought it had a 1.3 tip, and my epoxy and clear require a 1.4, which is what the Harbor Freight gun has. So I started using the HF and got used to it, figured out how to dial it in, etc. I took another look at the Sharpe last night in the middle of base and the damn thing has a 1.4 tip! Could have been using the nice gun the whole time. At this point, though, I'm not sure I want to try something new. I may, on smaller parts, but we'll see.
09-20-11 | 10:41 AM
#59
coming along nice OP! have any pictures with clear on yet?
How is that make shift booth working out for you, we painted my car in the mechanic shop with no fans or tarp...its all in the painter skill and color sand everything after
How is that make shift booth working out for you, we painted my car in the mechanic shop with no fans or tarp...its all in the painter skill and color sand everything after
