Fidel Cashflo's 1996 LS400 drift car build
08-17-11, 10:38 AM
#76
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there are only 2 diff codes for the JZA80, A and B. A has a 200mm (7.87in) ring gear and is found in all nonturbo cars and automatic turbo cars. B has a 220mm (8.66in) ring gear and is only found in 6spd turbo cars.
the 2+LS shares the 200mm sized ring gear size with the SC, 2GS, and JZA80.
the 2+LS shares the 200mm sized ring gear size with the SC, 2GS, and JZA80.
. dont flame
08-17-11, 04:08 PM
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Wheels is a very general statement, I honestly doubt a forged 2 piece track wheel will be effected by the 350degree baking process for the little time its in the oven.
The powdercoater I use is a very close friend of mine, does probably 15-20 sets of wheels a week. Never heard anything about wheels cracking or stressing. There are different types of powders for low and high heats (low being around 350-375 degrees)...
I'm honestly not worried about it, nor are the wheels mine anymore.
The powdercoater I use is a very close friend of mine, does probably 15-20 sets of wheels a week. Never heard anything about wheels cracking or stressing. There are different types of powders for low and high heats (low being around 350-375 degrees)...
I'm honestly not worried about it, nor are the wheels mine anymore.
08-18-11, 05:44 AM
#81
Get the **** out of my thread. Are you seriously retarded? I don't think you've read a single post in the thread before making your post.
I sold the SSR's. And please show me how powdercoating a wheel causes it to weaken? That 350degrees for 10-20 mins really has an effect on a set of FORGED track wheels right? GTFO.
And as for the statement about drifting a 4000 lb car with a 1jz? The car weighs 3650 from factory, and I have removed everything from the interior/trunk/bay that is unneeded. Car will weigh somewhere around 3300 lbs, similar to a MK3 supra and about 300lbs lighter than a factory SC300 (japanese counterparts come with the 1JZ....).
My old 1UZ made 216/223 uncorrected in about 95-100 degree heat.
So my 1JZ on 10psi, front mount, full 3" exhaust... Should be around 270-280whp.... Yeah man, that sounds terrible!
I sold the SSR's. And please show me how powdercoating a wheel causes it to weaken? That 350degrees for 10-20 mins really has an effect on a set of FORGED track wheels right? GTFO.
And as for the statement about drifting a 4000 lb car with a 1jz? The car weighs 3650 from factory, and I have removed everything from the interior/trunk/bay that is unneeded. Car will weigh somewhere around 3300 lbs, similar to a MK3 supra and about 300lbs lighter than a factory SC300 (japanese counterparts come with the 1JZ....).
My old 1UZ made 216/223 uncorrected in about 95-100 degree heat.
So my 1JZ on 10psi, front mount, full 3" exhaust... Should be around 270-280whp.... Yeah man, that sounds terrible!
yeah, i saw you sold them after i posted that, but then said you were powdercoating your new wheels also. its been documented that that heat changes the metalurgy of the aluminum, yes. i guess youve never seen pics of forged hre wheels, ccw wheels and the like that were broken at a track event after they were powdercoated? and your going to drift on the wheels which will put just as much stress on them. its a safety issue
and last i checked, the ls400 was more like 3850 stock. my 93 was over 4000lbs with a full tank of gas. ive had it on a truck scale, and the weight according to the title was 3850. i still think your retarded for wanting to drift an ls. fix it up, sure, even the 1jz swap, whatever floats your boat, but drift it? seriously? have you even checked the rear suspension bushings? half of them are prolly deteriorated away, if not 3/4's, which is common. i saw no mention of checking them, or replacing them.
and i also find it odd that you think a 1jz swap is the solution when you cant fix a simple misfire. yes you had it planned anyway, but if a simple misfire is so hard for you to figure out and fix, i sure hope you never have any issues with the tourqueless wonder your throwing in there.
btw, when you tq a valve cover down properly and it still leaks, it is obvious it needs a new gasket, tightening it down until it cracks is not the way to fix a valve cover gasket leak.
Last edited by williamb82; 08-18-11 at 05:50 AM.
08-19-11, 04:16 PM
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hey cashflo keep doing what you are doing. i think it is awesome. i also went from 240's to a ls400 to drift. im doing a different setup but in all drifting a big heavy car is no different then a small car. as long as your set it up right and can handle the car. ive seen many celsiors drift at ebisu when i went with no problem. love the car great work and cant wait to see what happens.
as for powdercoating wheels. i have been a powdercoater for 3 years and have done hundreds of wheels without any of them cracking or breaking. most of these wheels going on cars that drift. hope this doesnt put fuel on the fire. just my 2 cents.
as for powdercoating wheels. i have been a powdercoater for 3 years and have done hundreds of wheels without any of them cracking or breaking. most of these wheels going on cars that drift. hope this doesnt put fuel on the fire. just my 2 cents.
08-23-11, 06:22 AM
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hey cashflo keep doing what you are doing. i think it is awesome. i also went from 240's to a ls400 to drift. im doing a different setup but in all drifting a big heavy car is no different then a small car. as long as your set it up right and can handle the car. ive seen many celsiors drift at ebisu when i went with no problem. love the car great work and cant wait to see what happens.
as for powdercoating wheels. i have been a powdercoater for 3 years and have done hundreds of wheels without any of them cracking or breaking. most of these wheels going on cars that drift. hope this doesnt put fuel on the fire. just my 2 cents.
as for powdercoating wheels. i have been a powdercoater for 3 years and have done hundreds of wheels without any of them cracking or breaking. most of these wheels going on cars that drift. hope this doesnt put fuel on the fire. just my 2 cents.
I've done a lot of reading up and there are many companies that use powdercoated OEM wheels from factory... Are you telling me that they are gonna crack?
I'm not worried about it though, there are people that just have to hate when they disagree with something. Why would I just fix it up? After its all said and done, I have less than $1000 into the chassis? You can't even find a nice S13 shell for that much. Believe me, I'll be replacing any broken bushings.
Also how am I going to be putting more stress on the wheels? I'll be sliding the car (breaking traction), much less stress than grip with some sticky tires.
08-23-11, 05:10 PM
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yeah. dislikers gonna dislike. ive slid a chevy tahoe so pretty much anything can slide.
so many companys refinish their wheels. rotiform,fifteen52,borbet, etc.. the list goes on. can wait for more updates and for this car to be done. gives me ideas for mine.
so many companys refinish their wheels. rotiform,fifteen52,borbet, etc.. the list goes on. can wait for more updates and for this car to be done. gives me ideas for mine.
08-23-11, 08:06 PM
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So here’s the last time the engine will look like this. I started disassembling everything to clean the motor and get it ready for new parts and a new look.
God, I can’t wait until I get everything simplified, there’s way too much going on here:
Soo many vacuum lines, t fittings, coolant passages, and fuel lines that run together. I may just cap everything off except for the essentials and see what the dealio is.
Started removing everything that was easily accessible, started throwing everything in sandwich bags and labeling them as I went. Bought some cheap Walmart tackle boxes (big clear ones with a bunch of compartments) started throwing bolts in there and labeling. Oh yeah, organization.
These twins have no shaft play what so ever! I can’t wait to get these bad boys on 12psi. Won’t be too long til it receives MKIV 550’s, a tubular and a HOLSET with some standalone action.
Polished one up with a wire wheel, flossin.
Yeah.. That’s more like it.
The motor is in surprisingly good shape, no major problems that I’ve seen, most of the harness connectors were good aside from one injector and one coilpack. But I’ll be sure to fix those with new OEM clips when I have my buddy convert the harness.
Started filling the holes before I paint the bay, just need to be ground down now.
I dropped off my charge pipes, intake mani, pulleys, and valve covers to get powdercoated. And just a last picture to keep your interest up.
I picked up my 8 feet of 3” 0.065 wall aluminum piping, some 2.5” square tubing to make my shifter extension, and I’m still waiting on my 10 feet of 3” 0.065 wall unpolished stainless for my exhaust.
Still need to make 2 more orders for the rest of my parts (final tidbits from Driftmotion) and my clutch pedal and master from CNC. Then local driveshaft and it’s time for wheelies.
God, I can’t wait until I get everything simplified, there’s way too much going on here:
Soo many vacuum lines, t fittings, coolant passages, and fuel lines that run together. I may just cap everything off except for the essentials and see what the dealio is.
Started removing everything that was easily accessible, started throwing everything in sandwich bags and labeling them as I went. Bought some cheap Walmart tackle boxes (big clear ones with a bunch of compartments) started throwing bolts in there and labeling. Oh yeah, organization.
These twins have no shaft play what so ever! I can’t wait to get these bad boys on 12psi. Won’t be too long til it receives MKIV 550’s, a tubular and a HOLSET with some standalone action.
Polished one up with a wire wheel, flossin.
Yeah.. That’s more like it.
The motor is in surprisingly good shape, no major problems that I’ve seen, most of the harness connectors were good aside from one injector and one coilpack. But I’ll be sure to fix those with new OEM clips when I have my buddy convert the harness.
Started filling the holes before I paint the bay, just need to be ground down now.
I dropped off my charge pipes, intake mani, pulleys, and valve covers to get powdercoated. And just a last picture to keep your interest up.
I picked up my 8 feet of 3” 0.065 wall aluminum piping, some 2.5” square tubing to make my shifter extension, and I’m still waiting on my 10 feet of 3” 0.065 wall unpolished stainless for my exhaust.
Still need to make 2 more orders for the rest of my parts (final tidbits from Driftmotion) and my clutch pedal and master from CNC. Then local driveshaft and it’s time for wheelies.
09-06-11, 08:06 PM
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Made the rest of the orders I needed, just waiting for parts to show up. I can't wait to get the motor together and ready to be dropped in.
Bay is completely painted and almost back together, just need to get new AC O-Rings to put the lines/drier/condenser back in the bay.
I took out my chassis harness and re-loomed it all and deleted a few un-needed things.
Bay is completely painted and almost back together, just need to get new AC O-Rings to put the lines/drier/condenser back in the bay.
I took out my chassis harness and re-loomed it all and deleted a few un-needed things.
09-09-11, 07:05 PM
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those turbos are going to fall apart soon haha not trying to act like i know but the fins are ceramic in those and they fell apart shortly after the motor was put in. so they were replaced with a T-78. regardless this is going to be dope as ****