HiPSI's NA-T / Build Thread - Billet 6265 in store
09-21-12, 01:27 PM
#226
Nice update man,
Car looks amazing as always.
Hey Omar, I made a custom bezel already where the opening is a little further back. I personally witnessed an SC with a 6spd with a proper "hump" style tunnel that you see on 6spd supras and factory 95-97 SC300 5spds. It had the shorter 96-96 supra oem shifter and that thing definitely hit the bezel with just light shifting. I didn't wanna worry about it so I made a custom one. No big deal, at least I wouldn't need to worry about it popping out of gear or just the annoying factor.
Car looks amazing as always.
Hey Omar, I made a custom bezel already where the opening is a little further back. I personally witnessed an SC with a 6spd with a proper "hump" style tunnel that you see on 6spd supras and factory 95-97 SC300 5spds. It had the shorter 96-96 supra oem shifter and that thing definitely hit the bezel with just light shifting. I didn't wanna worry about it so I made a custom one. No big deal, at least I wouldn't need to worry about it popping out of gear or just the annoying factor.
09-21-12, 01:36 PM
#227
Thanks man. I actually got it re-sprayed because the first time it was painted satin black with a clearcoat that had a flattening agent...came out too glossy. I painted it flat black now and it looks 100% factory now. I'll make sure to post it up in a few weeks when I am all done here.
09-21-12, 01:57 PM
#228
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Andrew ,
You can get it tune as it is right now , so you can atleast enjoy the car before you tear it apart again for the hG replacement.
I have couple places that i use, thye do amazing work!
18-19 psi is the max i would run on 93 with tt hg, me personally i hate meth injection , if you wanna do it safely just do the HG i have seen too many burned up pistions On SF.
Don't Do it Please!
Yeah it's not worth driving 1hr 1/2 to fill up , unless you got a 55gallons drum .
And you can just have Brad tune it right now on E85 just to see what it will do, i bet you will change your mind about storing the fuel at the house LOL.
Dmitry ,
Post some pics on your thread , i would like to check it out!!
You can get it tune as it is right now , so you can atleast enjoy the car before you tear it apart again for the hG replacement.
I have couple places that i use, thye do amazing work!
18-19 psi is the max i would run on 93 with tt hg, me personally i hate meth injection , if you wanna do it safely just do the HG i have seen too many burned up pistions On SF.
Don't Do it Please!
Yeah it's not worth driving 1hr 1/2 to fill up , unless you got a 55gallons drum .
And you can just have Brad tune it right now on E85 just to see what it will do, i bet you will change your mind about storing the fuel at the house LOL.
Dmitry ,
Post some pics on your thread , i would like to check it out!!
09-21-12, 02:19 PM
#229
Andrew ,
You can get it tune as it is right now , so you can atleast enjoy the car before you tear it apart again for the hG replacement.
I have couple places that i use, thye do amazing work!
18-19 psi is the max i would run on 93 with tt hg, me personally i hate meth injection , if you wanna do it safely just do the HG i have seen too many burned up pistions On SF.
Don't Do it Please!
Yeah it's not worth driving 1hr 1/2 to fill up , unless you got a 55gallons drum .
And you can just have Brad tune it right now on E85 just to see what it will do, i bet you will change your mind about storing the fuel at the house LOL.
Dmitry ,
Post some pics on your thread , i would like to check it out!!
You can get it tune as it is right now , so you can atleast enjoy the car before you tear it apart again for the hG replacement.
I have couple places that i use, thye do amazing work!
18-19 psi is the max i would run on 93 with tt hg, me personally i hate meth injection , if you wanna do it safely just do the HG i have seen too many burned up pistions On SF.
Don't Do it Please!
Yeah it's not worth driving 1hr 1/2 to fill up , unless you got a 55gallons drum .
And you can just have Brad tune it right now on E85 just to see what it will do, i bet you will change your mind about storing the fuel at the house LOL.
Dmitry ,
Post some pics on your thread , i would like to check it out!!
I think my FIC 1100's will support around 600whp on e85, I'll just have to add another pump and external line.
09-21-12, 04:32 PM
#230
Lexus Test Driver
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I don't like meth injection because you don't have any failsafe, I you were running a Proefi I will tell you to go for it!
In case a line pops or something happen you have no way to tell , till you hear a noise .
My ID1000 supported 700whp on E85, just add another pump and you golden!
I get about 12-13mpg on E85 ..If you are not gonna drive it everyday you should consider the E85. For a daily car it cost me $600 a month Lol
In case a line pops or something happen you have no way to tell , till you hear a noise .
My ID1000 supported 700whp on E85, just add another pump and you golden!
I get about 12-13mpg on E85 ..If you are not gonna drive it everyday you should consider the E85. For a daily car it cost me $600 a month Lol
09-21-12, 07:47 PM
#231
Sure thing, I even got several pics during the process when I made it. I am gonna make another one if I like how this one is positioned. But the next one, I wanna make so that the boot is easily removable and not epoxied in place permanently like I have it now and how it comes from the factory.
12-02-12, 07:36 PM
#236
Thanks guys, I've really fell behind on updates. Between working retail and now not having any garage it seems like I can't get anything done.
Recently a smoking at idle issue arose and I could not figure out what was causing it due to the color being white at times and bluish too. The car would billow smoke at idle and then I'd take it up the road and it would clear out and stop smoking. I suspected the HG or possibly rings to be the culprit but a compression test showed me that the motor is healthy. Pulled the downpipe off and there was a river of oil running down it. I removed the center cartridge of the turbo from the turbine housing and oil seeped out alot!
I ended up sending the turbo off to Kirk at theboostlab.com as he offered to look at it for free since I knew I was out of my warranty from Precision. Kirk was outstanding and had the turbo back in 3 days including shipping time back to me! He stated that the bearing internals were coked black in oil and the turbo had some hot spots possibly from hot shut downs. This car is barely being run hard, I drive it very infrequently and it idles more than actually gets driven it seems like (Max boost has been 10psi). I suspect that my oil return is the problem. I'm going to open up my drain hole some more as I feel it is restricting it from returning to the pan and it's backing up into the housing.
Kirk coated the center cartridge and exhaust wheel as well it looks better than brand new.
So now I have my turbo back and I'm waiting on some time off work to redrill the pan with a 7/8" hole saw that Kirk recommended which should open the return hole to the stock OEM size. I fear this again as I was super cautious with the first time drilling with a unibit and I hated it in fear of shaving getting in. I'm going to take my time and clean the hole saw off very frequently.
Callie had to get in on the pix
On another note I did pick up a set of fresh brand new TTC 268 deg cams / BC Racing springs and retainers / & Titan Billet timing tensioner bracket. I'm also going to step down to a .81 open turbine housing and hopefully gain more low end torque / spool (I'm currently on a 1.00 divided due to initially wanting to run a SPracing quick spool valve but ended up not being able to due to my exhaust manifold design.
I'm also going to flush out the coolant system with distilled water and then replace the thermostat / radiator hoses / and put some fresh toyota red coolant in.
Recently a smoking at idle issue arose and I could not figure out what was causing it due to the color being white at times and bluish too. The car would billow smoke at idle and then I'd take it up the road and it would clear out and stop smoking. I suspected the HG or possibly rings to be the culprit but a compression test showed me that the motor is healthy. Pulled the downpipe off and there was a river of oil running down it. I removed the center cartridge of the turbo from the turbine housing and oil seeped out alot!
I ended up sending the turbo off to Kirk at theboostlab.com as he offered to look at it for free since I knew I was out of my warranty from Precision. Kirk was outstanding and had the turbo back in 3 days including shipping time back to me! He stated that the bearing internals were coked black in oil and the turbo had some hot spots possibly from hot shut downs. This car is barely being run hard, I drive it very infrequently and it idles more than actually gets driven it seems like (Max boost has been 10psi). I suspect that my oil return is the problem. I'm going to open up my drain hole some more as I feel it is restricting it from returning to the pan and it's backing up into the housing.
Kirk coated the center cartridge and exhaust wheel as well it looks better than brand new.
So now I have my turbo back and I'm waiting on some time off work to redrill the pan with a 7/8" hole saw that Kirk recommended which should open the return hole to the stock OEM size. I fear this again as I was super cautious with the first time drilling with a unibit and I hated it in fear of shaving getting in. I'm going to take my time and clean the hole saw off very frequently.
Callie had to get in on the pix
On another note I did pick up a set of fresh brand new TTC 268 deg cams / BC Racing springs and retainers / & Titan Billet timing tensioner bracket. I'm also going to step down to a .81 open turbine housing and hopefully gain more low end torque / spool (I'm currently on a 1.00 divided due to initially wanting to run a SPracing quick spool valve but ended up not being able to due to my exhaust manifold design.
I'm also going to flush out the coolant system with distilled water and then replace the thermostat / radiator hoses / and put some fresh toyota red coolant in.
Last edited by HiPSI; 12-02-12 at 07:54 PM.
12-05-12, 07:13 PM
#237
Finally got around to installing my freshly rebuilt 6265.
I wanted to redo my half assed oil pan drill attempt since I feel this was causing the return line to be insufficient and back up oil into the center cartridge which led to oil coking up the bearings and leaking oil out the exhaust seal / smoking.
Here is what my original attempt looked like, this was after an hour of slowly drilling / cleaning bit / cleaning the pan etc etc.
So per Kirk's advice @ theboostlab.com and alot of senior people on clublexus / supraforums NA section I redrilled the oil pan using a 7/8" hole saw w/ pilot drill bit. I feared that my current hole in the center would cause the pilot bit to not "grab" the coin once I pushed through and I'd lose it in the pan and have to pull the pan / drop subrame :sad. I about had a heart attack in anxiety when I felt the drill fall in suddenly. Thankfully this didn't happen and after an hour or so of slowly drilling / cleaning / swabing the oil pan hole out it went through and the coin stayed in the hole saw like it should.
Before:
After:
The feared / dreaded coin! You can see how much larger the new hole is now.
Brand new TTC / Cowboy Bebop 268 deg camshafts came in! BC Springs & retainers & billet timing tensioner bracket are also enroute from my black friday shopping. I'm hoping these will give me a solid 40-50whp gain. My DSM responded extremely well to some mild FP2 cams back in the day.
I wanted to redo my half assed oil pan drill attempt since I feel this was causing the return line to be insufficient and back up oil into the center cartridge which led to oil coking up the bearings and leaking oil out the exhaust seal / smoking.
Here is what my original attempt looked like, this was after an hour of slowly drilling / cleaning bit / cleaning the pan etc etc.
So per Kirk's advice @ theboostlab.com and alot of senior people on clublexus / supraforums NA section I redrilled the oil pan using a 7/8" hole saw w/ pilot drill bit. I feared that my current hole in the center would cause the pilot bit to not "grab" the coin once I pushed through and I'd lose it in the pan and have to pull the pan / drop subrame :sad. I about had a heart attack in anxiety when I felt the drill fall in suddenly. Thankfully this didn't happen and after an hour or so of slowly drilling / cleaning / swabing the oil pan hole out it went through and the coin stayed in the hole saw like it should.
Before:
After:
The feared / dreaded coin! You can see how much larger the new hole is now.
Brand new TTC / Cowboy Bebop 268 deg camshafts came in! BC Springs & retainers & billet timing tensioner bracket are also enroute from my black friday shopping. I'm hoping these will give me a solid 40-50whp gain. My DSM responded extremely well to some mild FP2 cams back in the day.
Last edited by HiPSI; 12-05-12 at 07:16 PM.
12-06-12, 09:29 AM
#239
HiPSI,
My car is doing the exact same thing yours was. Start it and let it idle and after a few minutes white smoke. I can go drive it and it will clear up. I'm guessing seals on the turbo since it has about 25,000 miles on the build. It's pretty annoying to let it be idling in driveway and it's smoking like it is. Neighbors loving me.
Shane
My car is doing the exact same thing yours was. Start it and let it idle and after a few minutes white smoke. I can go drive it and it will clear up. I'm guessing seals on the turbo since it has about 25,000 miles on the build. It's pretty annoying to let it be idling in driveway and it's smoking like it is. Neighbors loving me.
Shane
