HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Honestly this car is a dog stock ! It's heavy and what 180whp? I'm used to the 8psi na-t that would rip through gears.

Thank you man what's weird is the camera doesn't capture how awesome the TT wheels look in person. I can't wait to put 295/45's on the rears.

I'm so happy to have a reliable driving Lexus again, even with the 6 puck comp stage 4 I can dig it.
So far so good! My worst fear was getting the head back on and have a BHG right away or some really bad luck again with the car but its been really smooth.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

So any updates? This has been a great read, I'll be keeping this subscribed to reference later. Great car man!

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

***UPDATE***

Been driving the car for a year now after the GTE HG, new refreshed head, and ARP head studs and it drives great.

I have a habit of hoarding parts for future endeavors and I had been piecing together a JDM GTE / Aristo ecu mod for some time. Ali from the boards mentioned being able to convert to the ECU without the VVTi coil pack swap and using the stock distributor so I figured I would give it a go.

Originally I installed my JDM supra ecu with the factory injectors and it was running very lean and didn't want to idle properly, and drove sluggish, very poorly.

Today I did two things:
Replaced the spark plugs with fresh BKR7EIX's, kept the stock gap at .31-.32
Installed my osidetiger 550cc injectors.

These were the only two things replaced and I pulled the battery to reset the ecu.

Cold started the car, fired first try idling low in the 3-400 range. The fuel was at 16.XX ish and then richened up to a flat "10.0". This was expected as the injectors are 110cc larger than stock. The question that everyone has is if the GTE ecu is able to compensate / learn with the larger injector and lean out by itself.

After 10 miles of driving I now have a solid 14.8-15.2 A/F mixture at idle. It warm starts perfectly without any issues and idle is now solid at 700-800rpm. Cruising the A/F fluctuates now between 14.5-15.5. The only part that is noticeably rich is say the transition from throttle to pulling out of gear coasting to a stop, the car will go rich to 11.0 or so and then even out to the 14.8-15.2 range within seconds.





So that debunks the 550cc injector question, the car drives wonderful! Idles smooth as silk not a single hiccup either. There is a noticeable brief "rich" point after coasting down or letting the RPM drop where the A/F will go rich for a moment and then lean back out. I have a feeling this will always be an issue due to the fact that there are so many variables occuring so fast and the injectors are in fact 110cc to large. Cold start still idles very rich until the ECU clicks out of cold start mode and into warm idle mode, at that point the air / fuel leans out to where it should be.





Video showing what idle A/F is like after the JDM ecu learns the 550cc injectors:





The current setup I'm using is a:
JDM 6SPD Supra ecu
DS62 ignitor
Stock toyota map sensor
AEM IAT sensor
Osidetiger 550cc injectors
Stock distributor and coil
Stock intake manifold
Non-Turbo for the moment


Some pictures of the setup:




Jerry Rigged the intake pipe but its simple and works:






My pile of wiring from my old stock harness:






Added 5 pins to the ecu for the other 5 cylinders, these are soldered together and then spliced into the stock IGT wire.









The pins used on the new DS62 ignitor, shows 4 pins unused.









Quick Pic of the car just for reference, this is with my ETS front mount intercooler:





I still have my turbo setup as well, which was a billet 6265. I'm actually in the process of trying to make the big 1.00 divided turbine housing fit with the stock intake manifold / throttle body but clearance is an issue.

Does anyone here have experience with the ebay / XSpower turbo manifolds and a precision turbo like 6265 or 6765? If so where you able to make it work with the stock throttle body / intake manifold? And if so what turbine A/R did you go with to accomodate the lack of clearance there?

I'm trying to decide if I should switch to the treadstone cast manifold, or invest in a small .68 T4 turbine housing and see if it provides more clearance.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

I've done a test fit of my pte 6376 on my xs power manifold and it doesn't seem to sit high at all...but..it does need like a 1/4 inch spacer because runner number one touches the compressor housing. PM me if you'd like pics or are interested in the manifold. I'm going the treadstone route but because of wastegate and project preferences.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

What size A/R is the housing?

Mine is a divided 1.00 T4. Initially when I purchased this housing I had high hopes of one day running Sound Performance's Quick Spool valve but I just want a solid 400whp.

I think the size of my housing is what is causing the issue but I just want to verify this before I spend $230.00 on a new turbine and still have the same issue.



Here's how the clearance looks as of right now:

You can tell that the turbine housing is to close to the where the IC pipe coupler would be. Even with a heat blanket and the ceramic coating I'm afraid it won't work.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

I have a .68AR housing on mine. Also a T4 undivided. Your exhaust housing turbo flange also seems way thicker than mine does.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

didn't realize you were going turbo right after doing the tt ecu mod. looks like its coming along well except for the turbo clearance but I'm sure you will get that sorted out.

BAD954BOI

iTrader: (5)

I think it's the housing.. Plus going to a .68 or .81 while help with lag.. But you also have the option of going ffim or modifying the turbo manifold so that it sits lower

Either way good luck

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

If your looking for a solid 400 hp like you stated that A/R is a bit much...I would look into a smaller A/R like .88......Get a divided housing as well helps spool turbine a little quicker

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

hey HiPSI, i haven't posted on here in a while, but just happened to catch your thread while browsing the forum...


i'm just curious as to why you decided to go with a TT ecu (which has 6 ignition channels) but you've bridged all the triggers together to trigger the single coil on the stock distributor.

is it even possible to use the distributor's internal trigger (36+1 IIRC) on the stock ECU? i thought the TT ecu used one 6 tooth on the crank and two 1 tooth triggers on the cams (all 3 of which have their own input pins back at the ECU).

just curious. seems like a lot of work and time running wires when you have to change it all when you decide to utilize the rest of those expensive parts you have there!

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Ya I noticed the Divided T4 looked like it didn't fit quite right, larger at the base flange. My other manifold is a divided manifold and it fits it perfect, but that manifold sits slightly higher than this one.


I still kept all my turbo stuff from my last build I just needed a engine management solution and the GTE ecu hopefully will provide me a good option.


Ya the 1.00 divided was alittle overboard at the time, believe it or not it spools actually still pretty good but maybe with the .68 it will bring it down 400rpm faster.

Ali would be a better source to ask specific questions but the main reason I did all this was to take advantage of the GTE ecu and timing / boost control with the MAP sensor versus the terrible NA ecu on boost.

Bridging all 6 cylinders allows to use the stock distributor and simplifies the install. I actually have VVTi ignition coils ready to swap over but I wanted to try the stock distributor first. The car runs and drives awesome as is and pulls hard to, no negative effects staying with the distributor.

Once I decide to switch to coil on plug, it's as easy as running two wires from ecu to the ignitor. the other 3 igniton wires are jumped over to the two new wires, and then wiring from the ignitor to the coil packs. This will allow for more clearance, deleting the distributor, and supposely a smoother running more boost without cutting out.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Just purchased an open T4 .68 turbine housing! Hopefully it will provided a safe enough clearance from the throttle body so I can start boosting again.

Do most of you guys running NA-T setups with the stock intake / throttle body run exhaust wrap on the upper IC pipe? Or a turbine housing blanket? I'm afraid of the heat being an issue there.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I have a blanket on the turbine and the intercooler pipe is basically pressing against it holding it in place.
The turbo stays hot and the i/c pipe doesn't get super hot, just the regular amount of hot. generally even after some pulls you can touch the turbo blanket and the pipe, and I can say without the blanket you don't want to set your hand on that pipe the turbo will radiate so much heat without it.

IMO its more beneficial to run the blanket with the stock intake setup. the pipe wrap will only do a little bit, but the turbo blanket really keeps that heat in the turbo. I used to melt couplers there all the time at the throttle body before going with the blanket, we are talking 3-4 ply couplers melting.
since putting on the blanket, haven't even started melting my new one. I'll try and upload a pic later if you want.

your exhaust housing looks larger though, it may be a tight fit or put a small bump in the pipe, I have seen people do that.
lowering the flange though would be the best but costly, may just want to go FFIM at that point if you are up for it but if you are looking for less power a smaller turbo or hotside might do the trick as well. many options.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Ya after watching the videos with people putting their hands on the turbine while doing dyno pulls I knew that was the better option since the pipe is literally almost laying on the turbine housing.

Hopefully moving from the 1.00 divided to the .68 open T4 housing it will be enough clearance. I know this housing chokes performance but honestly at 400+ whp I've got other supporting mods to worry about!

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Good news and bad news!

Good news is a .68 T4 open housing significantly reduces the mass of the turbine housing and allows enough room for the intercooler piping.










Bad news is that this turbine housing doesn't fit my billet 6265!! The seller described it as fitting all P-trim exhaust wheels and I specifically asked it it would fit my billet 6265 and was told that it would. Turns out the overall depth of the turbine wheel is taller and needs a deeper style housing to fit my turbo . So now I'm back to square one, had to send back the housing.