DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

tedious work removing that isn't it. im having flash backs to when i did that earlier this year.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Received these a few minutes ago from the body shop man on my bumpers and such. They arent the best quality, but it's progress in the making.. Will post more of these as he sends them to me. I am just glad they are getting done. We made a trade for his work on my bumpers and new factory emblems, for my 61" Sony big screen tv.. I hope they turn out great...





I did alot of the old paint removal myself as posted in earlier pages, but they are going to fill in the holes that were in them from the front tag and the dimples from it too.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

The tach you pull the cluster make sure you disconnect the battery before you remobe the cluster because it will set you airbag light .
Remove the white cover on the back of the cluster, toward the top of the cluster on the board you will see R109 resistor. just get a piece of wire just that resistor from one side to the other , install the cluster and enjoy your car.
i need to do mine so i will post some pics when i get to mess with it , it's very easy !!

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Thats the best thing about this website is all of the helpful guys wanting to contribute their ideas, goals, and questions on here. Quick post them when you can, that would be great. There is NOT one on here as of now and that info would help out alot of us doing the swap.

If I use the AEM standalone through DM, is there any other devices that I need to buy? Like the boost controller, stock ecu, speed limiter removal, and such, or is everything done through the tuning phase of the standalone? I dont think I need the stock ECU anymore since I wil be going standalone. What about patch harnesses? I am still unclear on a few things in the turbo world. Laslty, do I need a BOV? Drove another SC the other day, might I say, the baddest one yet, and he didnt have one. I thought I needed one.. Someone chime in and take me to turbo world class 101.... :-)

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

The SC you drove probably has stock bypass valve on it. You should get a blow off valve. It does serve a purpose besides makin a loud noise between shifts. It prevents compressor surge or back spinning. So instead of the turbo sucking air its blowing out for a few seconds. Not good for turbo life. Get one.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

What AEM EMS from driftmotion are you gonna use?
You will need WB gauge
You can just buy the Mac valve and it works great with any AEM EMS.
You don't need the stock ECU anymore.
You don't need a limiter removal,no boost cut controler will be needed .

what about the patch harness? driftmotion should give you a patch harness if you are buying the honda ems that they started using on the 1jz with the patch harness and a premade start up map.
BoV you need one i am running (2)Tial 50mm on my car i don't like them but they are one of the best in the market for high boost application because they don't leak like the others.
I loved my Hks SSQV first generation , it sounded sexy
get a good fuel pump (s)!!

what fuel rail are you running? what fpr ? what fuel lines?
Don't Do the 12V fuel mod it doesn't work that great on sc400 with 2jz or 1jz trust me it cost me an engine

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Thanks for answering the questions....

Speaking of the fuel mod, I have already done it.. I guess I need to redo it and place it back stock.. Thats the good thing about this thread, is the knowledge on do's and dont's. I am running stock fuel rail on the 1JZ but with Power Enterprise 800cc injectors with new seals. The fuel lines, I havent decided yet or got that far along. I want to use stock ones, but I may have to modify them too much to get them too work. I will be buying the AEM that DM offers, it comes with the patch already..

I like the idea of the HKS and the sound of them, thats another item I am on the look out for. I am running the TT fuel pump. Drove the car about a month and half before build to assure it worked and functioned. Can I run twin pumps in the tank to increase pressure? Or buy one that is outside along with the stock one? How much would it cost to run E85, any special fittings, lines, etc? Why cant I run it now with stock lines and such? Take me to school, in lamin terms.

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

good question about the fuel pressure. i myself and endeavoring to make 500hp. and these walboro's seem to max out around 550hp range. would it be safer to run 2 pumps? i plan on ditching the walboro and get a denso pump anyway. just wanted someones input on the subject as well. and um.. how do you power 2 pumps anyway?

Cletus

iTrader: (7)

-Make it simple and do a good in tank that will do the job, trying to hunt down fittings to convert it all to the pump sucks. if you have access to a tig welder you find yourself a AN fitting that you can drill out and slide over your stock fuel line and weld it on, this way you have easy access to lines to connect it all . The AEM has a bunch of auxillarys to run NOS, Methanol etc.. so you just wire in a relay thats powered by ecu.
-No sense in buying bigger than 550cc injectors for the stock rail, when youll max the stock fuel rail at 550hp anyway, save money and get injectors that fit a top feed rail. (45 psi w/ out the vacuum connected)
- From what I understand to run e85 all you need is 30% more of it, so plan on 850cc to hit 600 bhp plus alot of boost =) like 30psi. They say ethanol is corrosive to natural rubber, well the natural rubber in engines stopped in the 70s, all the rubber now days is synthetic, so no worries about those rumors or what have you.

I made 460rwhp/432ftlbs with a 1jz on twin walbros, topfeed 550cc pump gas, billet 6265 @20psi
The toyota inline motors will run as many crank horse as cc injectors. 550cc x .20 % lost in drivetrain = 110 hp lost, 550-110= 440 dependent on the tuner, this motor runs like a rapped ape, happy boosting..

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Now that is more good info in lamin terms. I want 550 rwhp all day with a good tune. I believe with the 800cc injectors, stage 2 cams, standalone, BW S366 turbi, should do that all day! Anything over 550rwhp in my SC will be a plus.

So you are saying the stock fuel rail itself will run out of fuel at around 550ho regardless if injector size? Can someone else confirm this with true trial and error?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

I wanted HKS again but i didn't wanna spend $250 and end up with the copy .
Yes you can run twin pumps intank, but i like the inline pump setup because they usually flow more. like a denso intank with 044 inline is plenty of fuel for pump gas and 700rhwp depending on your injectors.

for E85 i will not run it on stock lines don't do it not recommended. It cost alot of money to do it right, right type of filters you can't just use any type of filters you need a stainless mess filter (40) +micron .
If you are not gonna buy the teflon lines and the right filters, right injectors because some injectors don't like E85, right fuel pumps setup bosch 044 doesn't like E85 intank, right fuel rail yes right fuel rail. You need anodize fuel rail.
The fittings are very expensive so far total i have about $600-700 on fuel lines and fittings.

If you are just gonna do 93 oct on your setup i would do on big pump bosch 044 intank that will be plenty for of fuel for 500rwhp.
Or like i said denso intank with 044 inline or you can try the new aeromotive stealth pumps they are cheaper than the Denso and flow better.
You wanna build your setup to have room to grow incase you want more power!

I made over 500rwhp on the stock fuel rail, fpr, stock lines (1) walbro and 1000cc.
Yes you are right i wouldn't spend the money on side feed injector to keep the stock fuel rail.
the stock fuel lines are little restricted , i found that out when i got in my tank. You have small tiny lines in the tank that comes from the fuel pump to the bottom of the tank on the right same scenario for the return line.

when you said alot of boost like 30 psi to make 600bhp , it's a little confusing... 600bhp not Rwhp
You don't need 30 psi on 1jzgte 880cc,EMS,and 264 cams to make that type of power on E85 .With 1000cc injectors and right fuel pumps, right fuel pressure i have no doubt it will make 730rwhp and a right tuner.
Remember E85 makes more tq than 93 oct or race gas, spools 500 rpm faster and runs cooler.
You don't wanna run E85 in your stock line because it will leak sooner or later it's not safe and i wouldn't do it or recommend it to anyone.Braided Stainless Steel PTFE / Teflon lines are great for replacing many factory rubber hoses such as rubber fuel lines, brake lines, and clutch lines. PTFE / Teflon does not deteriorate or bulge with age like rubber does, and has far superior chemical resistance. The stainless steel outside keeps the inner diameter uniform, allowing faster and more efficient fluid transfer (this means a firmer, more responsive pedal feel when replacing brake lines.) The stainless steel outside also keeps the lines looking shiny, new and professional all the time, and prevents damage to the inner hose.

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

QuickSC4 you should be digitized into an artificial intelligence like the computer on Star Trek! That was one helluva knowledge smack down! I bow down bradder

elijah5590

great build i will be following this

PoGikoSc4

iTrader: (17)

reading thru this thread makes me loved my project car more..a lot of knowledgeable folks here on CL.. keep it coming folks..

supraclone

my car has blowoff valves, but they are turned down as the tuner that built my car "Scott from THE SHOP" said i DONT need them as he warranties the turbo and they dont use them on any car.
Nothing on my setup is stock and im running an hks standalone, cnc head, cams. i love the sound of the turbo more than blow off valves.