1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Thanks QuickSC4 for the kind words man. Wish you were staying with your setup. The fuel pressure regulator is a MInes Performance one. I got it from another member on here. It is brand new. I wanted to go with steel braided but I think it will be too much bling on the engine bay. I am still going to use those type fittings for the catch can and lines. I think that will be sufficient. The bracket I made yesterday didnt work right after I rechecked everything today. I had to start over and make another. I didnt check the throtle linkage on the other side of the throttle body. It actually hit the plate and the fuel pressure line. I had to make another and bring it down and away from the throttle body more. I also installed the map sensor on the fire wall and ran the vacuum line to it from the fitting on the intake manifold. I retaped the rubber wiring shield coming out of the fuel rail. I didnt do it the first time.

megamax

iTrader: (9)

Looks good. Since I have a w58 I will be waiting to see how u figure out this tranny mount. I think the actuall aluminum brackets are the same, and u have to get a different rubber mount and do some drilling?

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I am leading to believe that's what I am going to have to do. This thing is getting to me!!!! Did the neutral safety switch bypass this morning. Heres how I done it.

I drilled a hole big enough for the wire to go through the side of the box, then ran it along under the other wires that was in the wheel well. Ran through the firewall along with the others and then wrapped it around the steering column so I knew it wouldnt move. Here is some picture of how I did it.







Once I got it through the firewall, I started to remove the plastic pieces as shown. Just some screws underneath and one on the top left under the vent. Also remove the trim under the center vents.







this is the black/white wire for the NSS, just splice into this. and tie in...





your done... I will finish up the fuel pump relay this afternoon and the 2 wires from the harness shown in red, this is for the iginitor and coils for them to get power when I turn the key on.. I will prolly tie into the fuse panel on the driver side somewhere. Time to break out the multimeter...

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

The 1jz auto harness is done for the reverse lights. This is what i did. Take the 8 wire plug in harness which is grey in color and strip back the flex loom. Then expose the wires.





Take the yellow and red/black wire away from others..



Then cut and extend the wires with the same gauge or bigger wiring. I chose 14 gauge. Extended about one foot.




Solder and heat shrink them with tubing and place back in the flex loom, retape it.





I chose to loop the red/black wire twice so I wouldn't forget which wire is what. Thats the reason for the short one..On the tranny side, find the two wires, one black and one white, cut off connector. I left enough slack just in case I had to use it again for whatever reason.










You connect the yellow wire to the white side of the tranny,and the red/black goes to the black side of the tranny.


Thats how far I can go until I mate this thing for marriage to the 1jz. I figured it was easier out of the car , then trying to solder under it with jack stands.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

For the cluster to work properly, remember to ground out the temp needle by the wiring in the passenger side, and then remove the cluster from car. Take off the white backing, 5 screws.. Then find R109 resistor, and place about an inch of wire, open on both ends, tuck under the current resistor, and then solder it. This mod is only good for the 92-94, if its the 95-97, use the same resistor but different number.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Dont forget to remove the P, N, D, 2, 1 bulbs from the center of the cluster. I actually forgot to do this. Leave the R light in...

I finally finished the relay to the fuel pump. No more bad stock relay problems. I mounted the relay on the lid of the gas tank where the stock wiring goes in from the top. Works like a champ.

DoomLight

iTrader: (3)

on my cluster just used electrical tape and covered the clear panel that says PRND2L then put the cluster back together. so u can't see the automatic selector parts at all.

of course i had to remove the black shroud over the gauges. but thats pretty easy. now u can't tell this cluster from a standard manual cluster.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Thats a good idea. Keep that in mind since I haven't removed the bulbs yet. When I powered it up the abs light stayed on. Still trying to figure that out. It is a known problem. I did find the patch harness from DM online today but it is out of stock. I wonder if it is all I need? Someone chime in who has done the swap.

Vwpride12

Coming along nicely. How do you remove the speaker covers on the rear deck? Or is it all just one piece?

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

You have to remove both seats in rear. Then pull the whole piece out. Its secured by plastic tabs if you still have them. Flip this piece over and the covers are held in with screws. GL.

Thanks for the compliments. Things should go quicker. Taxes have been done. :-)

Vwpride12

Thanks. It's not a race, go at your own pace.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I am. Its been down almost five months now. Still have a lot to do but a lot has been done. I can be very patient when it comes to perfection on a budget. That's what I am on!!!

WadeLovell

iTrader: (5)

There is a good post on resetting the ABS light. Is that the issue or does it come on as if the cluster were disconnected every time to turn on the ignition?

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

The actual problem lies with the ABS sesor and wiring itself. I have read countless threads on this today and it has led no where. I have also PM'd several members and I am awaiting the replies back from them on some insight. I also am led to believe that I need a patch harness that Driftmotion sells for $155. This goes somewhere on the trannsmission but them to ???? I havent had time to talk to Aaron today, but I will tomorrow about this issue. Several members doesnt seem to care about this issue, but I want everything 100% operating and working correctly like it did before the swap.

I cant answer your question directly, do to being a swap in progress. I have to work out all the kinks when I have everything installed and running. I do know that when I power the car and without having the ECU installed/unplugged, all the gauges on the cluster works, windows roll up and down, interior lights work, etc, but the fuel gauge shows correctly when the car is off, but when I power to ACC, the fuel gauge goes to EMPTY. The temp is reading right as it did normally when it was cold. The last thing the ABS light stays on the whole time the car is in the ACC position, but the check engine nor the trac comes on either. I dont know of these two work off the main ecu or not.. I am guessing they do.

I have double checked and then rechecked all the wiring, and the grounds, so if this problems persit, I will just pull the bulb behind the cluster and be without ABS. I am hoping to get some insight from Dr.Tweak and Aaron tomorrow.

Keep everyone posted.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Another thing I failed to mention that immediately when the battery is connected the third brake light on the spoiler stays lit the entire time. I also have the taillights out as well. i dont know if they need to be connected somehow for this to not be lit up without my foot on the brake. Maybe also be tied in to the ECU not being plugged in.. Need the wiring people to chime in.