1992Lexus.. Complete build thread with pictures and links!
#451
1JZ Single SC400
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Send me the repair manual please... to 1jzsc400@gmail.com or PM me the link.. Thanks Quick
I read the reatapping the bango bolt on the supra forums, but I thought it would be easier to order the 20 dollar part from DM and just screw it in.. Not to sound lazy, but I am ready to here this thing crank up..
I also been researching the spark plug gap. The NGK Iridium ones I bought were like 9 bucks a piece. they come pregapped to .044. I have been reading to gap them to .026, does this sound correct?
I read the reatapping the bango bolt on the supra forums, but I thought it would be easier to order the 20 dollar part from DM and just screw it in.. Not to sound lazy, but I am ready to here this thing crank up..
I also been researching the spark plug gap. The NGK Iridium ones I bought were like 9 bucks a piece. they come pregapped to .044. I have been reading to gap them to .026, does this sound correct?
#452
Lexus Test Driver
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yeah i'd gap them somewhere around .030
a little smaller gap if you're running higher boost, and a larger gap for lower boost.
the concept is just to keep the gap "optimal," and i think for turbo cars that's usually around .030
higher boost (~20psi+) i'd say ~.025
of course a slightly larger gap will be better for drivability and cold starts, etc. but you probably won't notice a difference unless you get the gap too large and it misfires in boost.
like Quick said, be very careful torquing those cams down correctly. the aftermarket ones are easier to break because the lobes are taller (lift). i've had multiple friends break their aftermarket cams when trying to install them. you'd be surprised how easily the damn things will crack in half when you torque down the wrong cam cap bolt...
a little smaller gap if you're running higher boost, and a larger gap for lower boost.
the concept is just to keep the gap "optimal," and i think for turbo cars that's usually around .030
higher boost (~20psi+) i'd say ~.025
of course a slightly larger gap will be better for drivability and cold starts, etc. but you probably won't notice a difference unless you get the gap too large and it misfires in boost.
like Quick said, be very careful torquing those cams down correctly. the aftermarket ones are easier to break because the lobes are taller (lift). i've had multiple friends break their aftermarket cams when trying to install them. you'd be surprised how easily the damn things will crack in half when you torque down the wrong cam cap bolt...
Last edited by cartmill; 02-14-12 at 03:00 PM.
#453
1JZ Single SC400
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I will keep this info about the torque sequence and not going to tight in my mind. I might just let the Local Lexus guy do it and double check the clearances. If I need shims, are the 1JZ and the 2JZ same? Can I buy these at the dealer or special order or any parts store?
I gapped all my plugs around .027 or so...
Thanks for the info Cartmill!!! Cartmill can you install these cams with confidence and precision? Pay you for your time and effort...
I gapped all my plugs around .027 or so...
Thanks for the info Cartmill!!! Cartmill can you install these cams with confidence and precision? Pay you for your time and effort...
#454
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I will post it on here some the other can also use it if needed and i will email you a copy.
The shims i am 99% sure you won't have to replace them, other wise you can use the 2jz or the 1uz one they are the same.
No need to buy them from lexus or Toyota. all you need is the shims and they come off the bucket easily just spray some air between the bucket and the shim and it will pop right and use the micrometer to measure the thickness.
The plugs i would gap between .028 to .030 but remember aem uses wasted spark so when you use the TT coils anything past 16-18 psi you will have some ignition break that's why people get the HKS DLI.
The worse thing that can happen is when you are running someone and your ignition is breaking up it happened to me couple time and i was hating life my whole way home.
That's why on all my setups i run 2jzVVti coils they are setup for wasted spark so NO DLI is need atleast for 33 psi .
So save your money for a DLI if you gonna run more than 18 psi.
If you are not confortable doing the cams , i would let someone with little more experience do it. It's like replacing the HG anybody can pull the old gasket and put a new one but when it comes to the torquing down the cam caps bolts and the head bolts not everyone can do it right that's the fun part.
Good luck man i can't wait till this thing is done alot of man hours went to this Car, it's not even the money lol it's your time that you will never get back !!
The shims i am 99% sure you won't have to replace them, other wise you can use the 2jz or the 1uz one they are the same.
No need to buy them from lexus or Toyota. all you need is the shims and they come off the bucket easily just spray some air between the bucket and the shim and it will pop right and use the micrometer to measure the thickness.
The plugs i would gap between .028 to .030 but remember aem uses wasted spark so when you use the TT coils anything past 16-18 psi you will have some ignition break that's why people get the HKS DLI.
The worse thing that can happen is when you are running someone and your ignition is breaking up it happened to me couple time and i was hating life my whole way home.
That's why on all my setups i run 2jzVVti coils they are setup for wasted spark so NO DLI is need atleast for 33 psi .
So save your money for a DLI if you gonna run more than 18 psi.
If you are not confortable doing the cams , i would let someone with little more experience do it. It's like replacing the HG anybody can pull the old gasket and put a new one but when it comes to the torquing down the cam caps bolts and the head bolts not everyone can do it right that's the fun part.
Good luck man i can't wait till this thing is done alot of man hours went to this Car, it's not even the money lol it's your time that you will never get back !!
#455
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IIRC if you measure everything out you can order MR2 shim less buckets and never have to worry about shims again. I want to do the BC 264's eventually and will probably go that route.
Shimless Valve Buckets Part #'s
About $13.50 Ea.
13751-46030 5.06 mm
13751-46040 5.08
13751-46050 5.10
13751-46060 5.12
13751-46070 5.14
13751-46080 5.16
13751-46090 5.18
13751-46100 5.20
13751-46110 5.22
13751-46120 5.24
13751-46130 5.26
13751-46140 5.28
13751-46150 5.30
13751-46160 5.32
13751-46170 5.34
13751-46180 5.36
13751-46190 5.38
13751-46200 5.40
13751-46210 5.42
13751-46220 5.44
13751-46230 5.46
13751-46240 5.48
13751-46250 5.50
13751-46260 5.52
13751-46270 5.54
13751-46280 5.56
13751-46290 5.58
13751-46300 5.60
13751-46310 5.62
13751-46320 5.64
13751-46330 5.66
13751-46340 5.68
13751-46350 5.70
13751-46360 5.72
13751-46370 5.74
Shimless Valve Buckets Part #'s
About $13.50 Ea.
13751-46030 5.06 mm
13751-46040 5.08
13751-46050 5.10
13751-46060 5.12
13751-46070 5.14
13751-46080 5.16
13751-46090 5.18
13751-46100 5.20
13751-46110 5.22
13751-46120 5.24
13751-46130 5.26
13751-46140 5.28
13751-46150 5.30
13751-46160 5.32
13751-46170 5.34
13751-46180 5.36
13751-46190 5.38
13751-46200 5.40
13751-46210 5.42
13751-46220 5.44
13751-46230 5.46
13751-46240 5.48
13751-46250 5.50
13751-46260 5.52
13751-46270 5.54
13751-46280 5.56
13751-46290 5.58
13751-46300 5.60
13751-46310 5.62
13751-46320 5.64
13751-46330 5.66
13751-46340 5.68
13751-46350 5.70
13751-46360 5.72
13751-46370 5.74
Last edited by GSXRMack; 02-14-12 at 06:52 PM. Reason: added shim less Part #'s and cost
#456
Lexus Champion
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I will post it on here some the other can also use it if needed and i will email you a copy.
The shims i am 99% sure you won't have to replace them, other wise you can use the 2jz or the 1uz one they are the same.
No need to buy them from lexus or Toyota. all you need is the shims and they come off the bucket easily just spray some air between the bucket and the shim and it will pop right and use the micrometer to measure the thickness.
The plugs i would gap between .028 to .030 but remember aem uses wasted spark so when you use the TT coils anything past 16-18 psi you will have some ignition break that's why people get the HKS DLI.
The worse thing that can happen is when you are running someone and your ignition is breaking up it happened to me couple time and i was hating life my whole way home.
That's why on all my setups i run 2jzVVti coils they are setup for wasted spark so NO DLI is need atleast for 33 psi .
So save your money for a DLI if you gonna run more than 18 psi.
If you are not confortable doing the cams , i would let someone with little more experience do it. It's like replacing the HG anybody can pull the old gasket and put a new one but when it comes to the torquing down the cam caps bolts and the head bolts not everyone can do it right that's the fun part.
Good luck man i can't wait till this thing is done alot of man hours went to this Car, it's not even the money lol it's your time that you will never get back !!
The shims i am 99% sure you won't have to replace them, other wise you can use the 2jz or the 1uz one they are the same.
No need to buy them from lexus or Toyota. all you need is the shims and they come off the bucket easily just spray some air between the bucket and the shim and it will pop right and use the micrometer to measure the thickness.
The plugs i would gap between .028 to .030 but remember aem uses wasted spark so when you use the TT coils anything past 16-18 psi you will have some ignition break that's why people get the HKS DLI.
The worse thing that can happen is when you are running someone and your ignition is breaking up it happened to me couple time and i was hating life my whole way home.
That's why on all my setups i run 2jzVVti coils they are setup for wasted spark so NO DLI is need atleast for 33 psi .
So save your money for a DLI if you gonna run more than 18 psi.
If you are not confortable doing the cams , i would let someone with little more experience do it. It's like replacing the HG anybody can pull the old gasket and put a new one but when it comes to the torquing down the cam caps bolts and the head bolts not everyone can do it right that's the fun part.
Good luck man i can't wait till this thing is done alot of man hours went to this Car, it's not even the money lol it's your time that you will never get back !!
#457
Lexus Test Driver
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The plugs i would gap between .028 to .030 but remember aem uses wasted spark so when you use the TT coils anything past 16-18 psi you will have some ignition break that's why people get the HKS DLI.
The worse thing that can happen is when you are running someone and your ignition is breaking up it happened to me couple time and i was hating life my whole way home.
That's why on all my setups i run 2jzVVti coils they are setup for wasted spark so NO DLI is need atleast for 33 psi .
The worse thing that can happen is when you are running someone and your ignition is breaking up it happened to me couple time and i was hating life my whole way home.
That's why on all my setups i run 2jzVVti coils they are setup for wasted spark so NO DLI is need atleast for 33 psi .
just FYI, AEM V2 has 8 ignition drivers, so you can run a 2jz fully sequential (no waste spark and DLI crap).
old AEM had 5 only ignition drivers, so you had to fire the coils in pairs, so the 2jzGE VVTI coils were an a viable upgrade (as they were designed to fire in pairs). why did the previous AEM only have 5 ignition drivers? who knows. the new one has 8.
Last edited by cartmill; 02-15-12 at 09:24 AM.
#458
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So until he gets the part number of the box he will be getting we are in the dark if he needs a DLI or not.
I was a little confuse last night i thought he was 2jzgte for some reason
Oh Cartmill go ahead an help my boy with the cams please!!!
#459
Lexus Test Driver
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Well i just remembered this that he won't be using the 30-1100 that requires a DLi .Yes the 30-6100 doesn't require a DLi but he is not using that either he is using a Honda Box from DM that they modify to work on the 1JZGTE.
So until he gets the part number of the box he will be getting we are in the dark if he needs a DLI or not.
I was a little confuse last night i thought he was 2jzgte for some reason
Oh Cartmill go ahead an help my boy with the cams please!!!
So until he gets the part number of the box he will be getting we are in the dark if he needs a DLI or not.
I was a little confuse last night i thought he was 2jzgte for some reason
Oh Cartmill go ahead an help my boy with the cams please!!!
this one?
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/...rer1jz-gte.php
i think they have a typo there, because those factory plugs (image #2) are for a Chaser, not a Soarer. the Soarer 1jzgte ECU has two rows of plugs: (from that link) "We sell a different version for 1JZ-GTE engine harnesses that have connectors with 2 rows of pins."
anyway, what's pictured (with those taller toyota ECU plugs) is the Chaser jumper harness.
and Quick, that link says it has enough injector and ignition drivers to run the 2jz fully sequential, so we're all good here.
and no, i'm not quite prepared at the moment to do any aftermarket cam installs. sorry friends
#460
Pole Position
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1JZGTE has the same ignition coils and igniter as the 2JZGTE
this one?
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/...rer1jz-gte.php
i think they have a typo there, because those factory plugs (image #2) are for a Chaser, not a Soarer. the Soarer 1jzgte ECU has two rows of plugs: (from that link) "We sell a different version for 1JZ-GTE engine harnesses that have connectors with 2 rows of pins."
anyway, what's pictured (with those taller toyota ECU plugs) is the Chaser jumper harness.
and Quick, that link says it has enough injector and ignition drivers to run the 2jz fully sequential, so we're all good here.
and no, i'm not quite prepared at the moment to do any aftermarket cam installs. sorry friends
this one?
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/...rer1jz-gte.php
i think they have a typo there, because those factory plugs (image #2) are for a Chaser, not a Soarer. the Soarer 1jzgte ECU has two rows of plugs: (from that link) "We sell a different version for 1JZ-GTE engine harnesses that have connectors with 2 rows of pins."
anyway, what's pictured (with those taller toyota ECU plugs) is the Chaser jumper harness.
and Quick, that link says it has enough injector and ignition drivers to run the 2jz fully sequential, so we're all good here.
and no, i'm not quite prepared at the moment to do any aftermarket cam installs. sorry friends
Last edited by 94_soarer; 02-15-12 at 10:32 AM.
#461
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No i know it's the same coils but what i was saying since i thought he was 2jz he would be on Version1 Aem Ems since it's PNp since he is 1JZ gte it's not PNP to the aem 30-1100.
Soarer and Chaser are 4 rows pin and the Supra JZA70 is 2 row, i know Chaser is 4 row because i had a Chaser swap in my car , and the Soarer is 4 row also i have an ECU from a Soarer i am selling.
Soarer and Chaser are 4 rows pin and the Supra JZA70 is 2 row, i know Chaser is 4 row because i had a Chaser swap in my car , and the Soarer is 4 row also i have an ECU from a Soarer i am selling.
#463
Lexus Test Driver
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you are correct! i had a chaser 1jz vvti in my SC a couple years ago. i thought the soarer was the different ECU, it's supra though. my mistake
#464
1JZ Single SC400
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To clear up some confusion, i will be buying the AEM standalone version 2 from DM. It is the one from the honda vehicles but modified to fit the soarer. That is what this 1jz came out of. Guys i wanted to thank everyone who has contributed to my build and the very useful knowledge.. it has been a long journey, but in the end, i hope it runs very well.
More parts came in today.... guess what it was??? Lol
Stay tuned... people its close...
I have a question, since the tranny is still out of the car, i notice the motor sits a little low in the front. My question is can i go ahead and run the piping, or should i wait till the tranny is installed, so the correct pipe cuts are correct, or does it really make a difference? I would like to do this so i can start putting the bumper, lights, etc back on... i wonder if an inch or so would make this much of an difference of how the motor sits back?
More parts came in today.... guess what it was??? Lol
Stay tuned... people its close...
I have a question, since the tranny is still out of the car, i notice the motor sits a little low in the front. My question is can i go ahead and run the piping, or should i wait till the tranny is installed, so the correct pipe cuts are correct, or does it really make a difference? I would like to do this so i can start putting the bumper, lights, etc back on... i wonder if an inch or so would make this much of an difference of how the motor sits back?
#465
Lexus Champion
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Don't fit that piping until the motor is where it will be permanently. Fitting even the smaller 2.5" piping was a HUGE pita around the drivers side. It is really busy in that area of the car due to all the AC, and PS stuff. I am afraid that you will fit it all up, and then moving the motor will throw all the measurements off and you will have to do it all again.