99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Nope install the transmission before installing the piping because once you install the trans and bolt the cross member to the chassis it will move the location of everything, the turbo will more forward, the Tb will move, the whole engine will move.

OR You can try using a jack under the car to level it up the engine then run your piping till you install the trans. You can jack up the engine right where the bellhousing attaches to the engine.

Is your battery staying in the engine bay? i am asking just for a the clean look !!

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I am keeping the stock battery and holder, trying to keep the stock look. I laid out the piping today and the bov is going to be tight, but i think doable. Made some progress today with the cams.. this is as far as i want to go without some assistance.. double check to make sure everything was at tdc. Heres some progress..

94_soarer

iTrader: (8)

getting down to business i see, i cant wait until this thing is done!!

megamax

iTrader: (9)

what did you use to hold the cams in place whule you removed the bolt?? And did u use a air gun to loosen the bolt?? if it's that easy to remove the cam gears, then ill do my seals.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

Here you go sir sorry for the late reply, i completely forgot.

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

the FSM says to use a big wrench on that hex section near the front of the cam.

i used a big mexican speed wrench and it worked fine. (i think the hex section on the cam is like a 32mm. it's big)

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I actually didnt use anything to hold the cam in place while loosing the cam gears. The impact gun i got is mackdaddy, busted them loose the first time. I did undo the brackets that hokd the cams in place in the proper order according to the pdf attachment.

Thanks Quick...


Now all i need is a micrometer and another set of eyes for guidance... will have to play the waiting game for this install, dont want to screw anything up..

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

what are you going to mic?

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

^^^Shims I would guess.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

That is correct.. I called five people yesterday for help and no luck, why cant there be any more JZ ethusiastic here local? Lol.. I did leave my name and number with a shop a few minutes ago to give one of his employees. We will see..

cartmill

iTrader: (3)

you shouldn't need to get any new shims (i wouldn't think).
just put the cams in and use a feeler gauge to make sure they're close...

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

^^^ Exactly

just reinstall the shims in order that you removed them , use some assembly lube to install the cams then just use the feeler gauge and check the clearances. You shouldn't have to replace the stock shims unless they are completely OFF with the stock cams.

Don't use the impact with the install, small rachett to start and then use the Tq wrench.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I have read the file like twenty times, I just want to be sure I do it correctly... Thats all.. Come on yall build my confidence up!!!

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

I would be surprised if out of 24 valves, no shims are needed, but maybe he will luck out. We are talking about BC cams here, not HKS. I am curious to see how they measure out.

spoolxexo

iTrader: (4)

264 duration like everyone said is close to the stock 1jz cam profile, and the lift is marginal. 1mm.

But you won't know until you got them set in there. This is a precision process here.

Stock Intake/Exhaust
1jz-gte
lift 7.69 7.95
duration (adv) 224 228
duration @ .050"

BC264 Lift = 8.7mm. barely 1mm over stock lift.

Micrometers are for measuring shaft profiles for lathing, feeler gauges are what you need.

No biggie! Slap those things in!