Thats the correct answer.. Bingo!!!

Thats another reason why I chose the version 2, plus the cost benefit of having it.

 

Yessir bro, great minds think alike!! so basically ur setup will be S366,BC 264 cams,Aem V2!! this will make great #'s

when i switch to a 2JZ block i will also add Aem V2 BC 264,& S366 along with fuel system & E85!!

 

i posted that because AEMv2 has closed loop boost control. so you basically enter the equivalent of "run 20 psi" in the target boost map and it runs 20 psi. most of the EBCs just have a "duty" you set with a sharpness setting -- not nearly as cool. the aem boost control will also take a switched input and let you CLICK and switch to a higher or lower boost.... and you can do speed based or gear based boost control (ie. "run only 10psi until i reach 60 mph, then run 20psi" or whatever)

so you just buy a simple boost control solenoid, control it with the AEM, and you don't have to spend $$$ on a separate EBC and run another controller thing into your cabin...





and please know that i'm not some kind of rep for AEM or something. just trying to help you out here. since you already own the damn thing these expensive EMSs can do all kinds of cool/useful stuff, so utilize it!

 

^^^ I cannot wait to buy mine from DM i can sell my stock m/t soarer ecu,greddy bcc,greddy scc, apexi safc2 & Hks evc 5 :-)

 

that AEMv2 for the 1jz is a KILLER deal.

i am confused slightly as to why it has low current injector/ignition drivers. they must get a great deal on an AEMv2 box for a Honda that has injector resistors and externally ignited ignition coils (low amp drivers inside the AEM ecu?). interesting.

 

Now thats some cool information to know about the AEM. So the question is, do I really need a BC? I think i already know the answer.

 

Thanks! I wasn't sure

 

all you need is a boost control solenoid. i think the AEM one is less than 100$


so you just hook up the solenoid to the AEM (similar to how you would hook up a traditional EBC) and it will control the boost.


and for the record, i do not apologize for turning this thread into EMS101 guys.
apparently the thing to do on clublexus is get a piggyback ECU and several extra electronics and boost controllers to control everything.

 

Are we building the same car LOL (minus 1J vs 2j)!! I am picking up the AEMv2 today as well because I do not want to screw with the DLI. If you get v1 then you have to get the DLI for sure and then you are close to the cost of the v2 anyhow. I am bypassing a local AEMv1 box for sale for $900 because of the need of DLI.

can I use my blitz boost control solenoid or would it just be better/smarter to get another one?

 

Well i wouldnt say that a piggyback ecu with several other electronics and boost controllers is what we prefer here on clublexus but then again with a GTE motor either 1J or 2J the piggybacks such as Apexi Safc2 MapEcu 1,2,& 3 work pretty good on a GTE swap but now they finally have come across a good deal on a stand alone that will work PNP for the 1J n 2J without extras such as DLI etc...Aem V2 pnp for the 1JZ for $1275 is a deal!!!

 

So the converted Honda v2 box from DM is fully sequential and can drive all 6 coils without wasted spark?

 

from the DM product info section on the Soarer 1jz aemv2 kit:

"The only real limitation of this ecu are that it can only run high impedance injectors directly, but it can run low impedance injectors if a injector resistor is used...This unit has 6 injector drivers, and 6 ignition drivers, but it can not run ignition coils directly without the use of a factory or aftermarket igniter."

i don't know which honda that aem box controlled originally, but it was apparently a fully sequential v6.


http://store.driftmotion.com/static/...rer1jz-gte.php

 

I dont mind the college class on my thread, as long as it pertains to my build of the 1JZ. Just kidding, this thread is for anyone who has the money and time to do the swap correctly with alot of pictures along the way. Thats the point of this thread. Trial and errors with alot of uncovered and researched information on the SC400.

 

yeah i'm really trying to not sound like an elitist in your thread or something and say stuff like "YOU MUST BUY A STANDALONE, STOCK ECU SUCKS" etc. but you should utilize all the cool features you can do with your standalone (and you can make things a lot cleaner if you don't have to install other controllers/FCDs/EBCs/etc) and make everything worth the coin you just dropped on it

 

I failed to mention in this build. If you decide to run an AEM oil pressure gauge or something similar, do not get confused on which oil bulb to take out of the cluster. The one by the rpm, is for the oil LEVEL, so keep it in its place, the other oil light, in the bottom of the right hand corner, next to the battery, thats the oil PRESSURE. The oil PRESSURE is the one to REMOVE.