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1992Lexus.. Complete build thread with pictures and links!

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Old 09-23-11, 06:13 AM
  #61  
skirts
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Any new pictures or parts?
Old 09-23-11, 08:04 AM
  #62  
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Get an AEM FIC, it kicks MAP ECU's ***.

The S366 is perfect for a wound up street car.

Gotta remember, there was time when GReddy T88's were "Street Turbos"

Plus the noises that come out of the BW are super sexy.

You can make your own QSV for a fraction of the cost.

Yes, you do need a NON-divided Manifold for it to work.

Buy this.

1.

Next, buy a throttle shaft from a dirtbike or something.

2.

3. You can either fit the butterfly and shaft into the T3 divided flange

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYWRkAGzbnk

OOORR..

You can setup the butterfly right in the turbine housing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1EP98fOOPU
Old 09-23-11, 04:32 PM
  #63  
1JZPWRD
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Now this is some good info.. Thanks man.

Update.. Not too much going on, but picked up the 2JZGE NA motor yesterday.. Started working on the oil pan bottom today..The rest of this motor is for sale in the classifieds, if anyone is interested in it....CHEAP. Here is some photos along the way from adding the Camry throttle to the oil pan. More to come..

Picking up the 1JZ and R154 tonight. Laslty, ordered a new set of clutch pedals with hardware and a new SPEC 6 spring clutch kit, with a SPEC lightened flywheel today for the R154. Supposed to be here on Tuesday or Wedsnday by UPS. Turbo should be here on Tuesday also by Fedex. Bought the S366 Borg Warner. I am complitating on wether to keep it or not, its huge, a .91 A/R. Might want to trade for a Precision 6262 or 6265 or a GT35 or GT40 series.

Now for the pictures..

Before...


After


Along the way...




The 2JZ




The oil pan, man it was oily and greasy bad.. This is after I cleaned and sanded it with 1000 grit.



First coat of VHT flat back high temp paint


Three coats of black, and one coat of clear, almost dry..


Almost dry with flash on and second coat of clear.. kinda crappy looking..


Final and a little wet still, near perfect black OEM color..


Most people would have cleaned and put back on, this is what makes my build great to me.. attention to detail.
Old 09-23-11, 06:07 PM
  #64  
skirts
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Looks really good man.
Old 09-23-11, 08:00 PM
  #65  
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this is my opinion ok at it's your project and i wanna steer you in the right direction at the end it's your car you make the call.
You don't need the 2jz block it will cost you more money in the long run they are hidden fees....

You don't need a QSV the S366 will do just fine on the 2.5L with some nice set of cams. the .91 ar is divided and the 88 is non divided. just put a nice dp on it and let it breath. keep it that Turbo it will last you longer and will make more power than the ones you mentioned in your post i've been there done that. the rebuild kit on that turbo is $48 FYI . Try rebuilding a gt35r it's a price a of a new gt35r.


Get a divided manifold to match the exhaust housing on that turbo and it will help with the spool, spend the money where it needs to to spent.

Spec clutch is the worse clutch you can put on your car i had one and i will never do it again, their lightweight Flywheel shatter , rattle and noisy i had one and i hated it.
stock Flywheel and any other clutch, call and cancel that order

Do not use the SC300 fan on your swap you need a tt fan with the SC300 fan clutch , it will cost you in the long run the people run spacers on the stud to push the fan blade out to clear the upper radiator hose but it won't last why ? because it's not balance i learned the hard way at 6k rpm my the fan broke the studs and punch a hole in my radiator and broke my fan shroud.i was trying to save $75 it's cost me $275 .
i have seen this happen 3 times on the same car where the water pump housing keeps breaking whenever you put load on the engine they went through 3 water pumps before realizing it was the washers they used between the blade and the fan clutch. 3 oem water pumps later

Don't halfassed your project , don't rush , don't buy cheap garbage trying to save a penny, and when you build your car think about 2 years from now and that willl save you alot of time and money.
Old 09-24-11, 12:58 PM
  #66  
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Thanks for the advice Quick.. The motor did come with the TT fan and clutch. The motor finally arrived along with the new clutch pedals, and the SS clutch line. I cant cancel the order for the SPEC clutch until Monday.. I worked on the motor before the Alabama game comes on.. Removed the stock twins... now for sale by the way. Also the motor come with a rear sump pan, so all that work, didnt need too.. Oh well..

[IMG]http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h364/1992LexusMarks/2011-09-24103931.jpg[/IMG







Old 09-27-11, 09:07 PM
  #67  
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Got some more work the last few days. Removed the alternator, fan clutch with fan/bracket, and the AC compressor. Tore apart the alternator, and resprayed it with flat aluminum high temp, and the pulley in black. Installed the pedals. They are off for some reason. The clutch pedal is too low and too close to the foot rest. The brake pedal looks good. Does the clutch need to be adjusted or anyone have this trouble before. I was thinking of switching the pedal hardware around and see if it will fit or its backwards. Also received the S366 turbo in the mail. Ordered the GSP FMIC with 3 inch intake and outlet, 30 inches long, 12 inches high, and 4 inch deep. The Lexus dealership nor the Toyota could order me the flywheel bolts, so I ordered them through Fastenal locally. Only 4 bucks for 8 of them in Grade 8. The Lexus dealership cross referenced them to a IS300 with a manual, they quoted me 13.85 a piece, for a freaking bolt. Thats crazy!
Will post pictures soon of the progress and the pedal craziness. Should be picking up the downpipe, divided manifold, full exhaust, injectors, oil lines, and other small stuff this week.
Old 09-29-11, 10:20 AM
  #68  
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You can get the HPF feramic , Competition, ACT don't get the HD PP some mild will be just fine.
Stock flywheel works great with stock pp and feramic disc because the disc will bite into it and it will hold the power. you will get more bite with the feramic disc
You can use the stock flywheel with any of those clutches above.
Old 09-30-11, 04:13 AM
  #69  
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Look on ebay, there are some really good used ORC, and Exedy clutches with flywheels from JP for $500.

Other then that, I will still say a stock pressure plate, with a sprung disk, flywheel machined to the right spec, and broken in well.

Heavy singles are, well too heavy, and twin disks are expensive. This is my solution to 500whp.
Old 09-30-11, 08:27 PM
  #70  
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Made very little progress, but some is better than none. Sent off the lip to have vinyl wrap, tried it myself and the help of skirts, didnt work out too much.. Cant wait to see it when it returns. Installed the pedals, and they appear a little off to me..

Can anyone post pictures of theres?

Removed the harmonic balancer with the help of the chain wrench, mans best friend! Then took my puller and removed the pulley, piece of cake.. Sanded down the ac compressor and painted it, along with the bolts. Finished up the alternator and pulley, looks quite good. Painted the fan pulley, and the harmonic balancer, along with the timing belt cover, and bolts. Removed the motor mounts, and will work on them tomorrow at work, along with the front bumper.. I have some unfinished sanding to do, to get it just right. I will be sending the front and rear bumpers, along with the top ignition cover and top cam cover to be painted next week, if all goes well. Picked up my top cover new bolts, and the flywheel bolts..

Enjoy the pictures..


















Last edited by 1JZPWRD; 10-05-11 at 05:50 AM.
Old 09-30-11, 10:03 PM
  #71  
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This is mine after changing the pedals. They are straight. You seem to have it right to me.
Old 10-01-11, 03:44 AM
  #72  
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The only discrepancy in installing the clutch pedal in a sc300 is, if you use the MKIII pedal you use the lower hole from the factory, line up the pedal and drill a new hole at about 10 o'clock .

Yours look perfectly fine.
Old 10-01-11, 07:19 PM
  #73  
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the car i removed my pedals from was an actual sc300 manual. it used the lower bracket hole. but the automatic body doesn't have a provision for you to bolt it down. hidden underneath the carpet.

there is plenty of support elsewhere. so it isn't needed in this application. its very sturdy.
Old 10-02-11, 11:26 AM
  #74  
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If you still looking for a clutch id recommend Competition. Been using them in my cars for the last few years and they hold power extremely well and dont have an excessive pedal feel so they are nice to drive even in traffic. I'm currently running one in my sc and it gone 20k and held just under 500whp with no issues. Btw nice build keep up the good work.
Old 10-02-11, 12:41 PM
  #75  
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I'm keeping my eye on this swap since it could be useful to me soon. Good luck with your build, looking good so far


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