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2jzGTE SCs - The Siblings of my Supra MKIV Toys

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Old 08-24-13, 01:17 PM
  #1696  
aswang
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Interior looks great, I hope everything works out, and I'm sure Omar and I will let you know our collective experience with ProEFI once all is said and done.
Old 08-24-13, 01:24 PM
  #1697  
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Originally Posted by ghostae86
hows it goin kuya GerrB! the car is amazing.. glad to see it in person!
Hey .. thank you sir , well a few on this forum have seen the car in person . I have a proposition for you ! I know you guys love to drift . Let me have that AE86 you have so I can put a 2jzgte on it and I will give you that running beige SC400 and build it slowly for drifting. Some build threads here you will find , on SCs being drifted.

What you say ? .. Damn I really like that AE86 being 2100 lbs ... find me one with a good body . The only problem I can think of putting a 2jzgte on that car is the differential ... I have seen a lot on the net people putting that power plant in that small car ..
Old 08-24-13, 01:28 PM
  #1698  
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Originally Posted by soarer213
Interior looks great, I hope everything works out, and I'm sure Omar and I will let you know our collective experience with ProEFI once all is said and done.
Thank you sir .. well I guess quite a learning curve on proEFI . Been thinkering with the software on my free times. I will install it once I am very confident I know what I am doing on that ECU. That is the reason , meanwhile , I was thinking of running 440cc and stock ECU just to continue using the car while I am learning the ins and outs of proEFI that is if I sell the AEM. Until it is sold I will continue to use it. I just freaking remember , I posted it for sale and at the same time I bought an AEM serial gauge yesterday on SF which will be useless without the AEM ecu .

Indeed people like you who are willing to help make the forums such a great place to be at. I just came from the dyno place and decided not to take the risk since my friend who was suppose to help me tune the car never tuned a 2jzgte with direct port nitrous. I didn't want my car to be a guinea pig . I would rather wait for the experts and temporarily be content running below 20psi for now. I hate to see the work I did for a year be in pieces just because neither one of us ever tuned with nitrous. I can wait ...

Last edited by gerrb; 08-24-13 at 01:35 PM.
Old 08-24-13, 01:37 PM
  #1699  
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Originally Posted by gerrb
Hey .. thank you sir , well a few on this forum have seen the car in person . I have a proposition for you ! I know you guys love to drift . Let me have that AE86 you have so I can put a 2jzgte on it and I will give you that running beige SC400 and build it slowly for drifting. Some build threads here you will find , on SCs being drifted.

What you say ? .. Damn I really like that AE86 being 2100 lbs ... find me one with a good body . The only problem I can think of putting a 2jzgte on that car is the differential ... I have seen a lot on the net people putting that power plant in that small car ..
That sounds like a proposition I could not turn down. I used to know a few people with Truenos on the other coast with F20C from the S2K. I always wondered why not the 2jzgte..lol.


Originally Posted by gerrb
Thank you sir .. well I guess quite a learning curve on proEFI . Been thinkering with the software on my free times. I will install it once I am very confident I know what I am doing on that ECU. That is the reason , meanwhile , I was thinking of running 440cc and stock ECU just to continue using the car while I am learning the ins and outs of proEFI.

Indeed people like you who are willing to help make the forums such a great place to be at.
Thank you as well sir! Omar is the man, he will be pinning everything and have a base map to run on until Alpha comes through for the tuning. Keep up the outstanding work!!
Old 08-24-13, 03:48 PM
  #1700  
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Oh am sure , you are in good hands with Omar.

I have no problems wiring the proEFI . In fact I already had started the car with the proEFI . It's the tune / maps and all the other features of proEFI that I need to learn and implement. My motto now since my bad experiences of getting other people work on my cars is " I am not playing with anything I can't work on." . So since I decided to use a proEFI , I should be ale to get the car at least running decently without nitrous just like it is running good up to 19 psi on AEM right now on pump gas. Today , I just learned how to implement on the fly E85 blending on AEM so I can pump whichever is available. I feel the car definitely more powerful with E85 in the tank.

I just feel that , I really need to install the BW 74mm now ... but spool is a lot better now with the 67mm on E85 blend

Last edited by gerrb; 08-24-13 at 03:51 PM.
Old 08-24-13, 09:00 PM
  #1701  
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Well Jerry what was the verdict??? Did you meet your goal? You can say yes or no. Its cool with me after our conversation last night. Lol..
Old 08-25-13, 05:52 AM
  #1702  
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Originally Posted by 1JZPWRD
Well Jerry what was the verdict??? Did you meet your goal? You can say yes or no. Its cool with me after our conversation last night. Lol..
Mark , no nitrous for me yet. But am pretty sure once it is setup , that is another 150 hp on top since the jets are setup for 150 . It has to be the experts who should do it. My friend who taught me how to tune never tuned a 2jzgte with direct port nitrous setup. I wasn't ready to take a risk and my car being the guinea pig for both of us. I thought of the time and money I spent on the car just to blow it up in a second because of our ignorance. I will wait for the right moment. The car is ready though for high boost , after a 1000 mile breakin on the built engine , my leakdown and compression numbers are really good. We were able to get in the flex fuel blending though... it is great. Actually easy .

Like for you , you already got your 93 tune. All you have to do is , set your flex fuel map with 30-40% more of your 93 tune. Set also your other E85 maps (Flex Start, Flex O2 FB, Flex Boost) and your blending map. The percentage of E85 is determined by your Flex Fuel Composition sensor and the amount of blending between your regular fuel map and flex fuel map is determined by the Flex Fuel Blend Map. Then set / adjust your Flex Ign by getting your MBTs on the dyno ... after that ENJOY FLEX FUEL ... fill up whatever you have around ...E85 or 93 and let the system do its magic adjusting your tune on the fly based on what fuel you have. Enjoy race gas at the cost of regular fuel . Your engine is happy since it runs cooler with higher octane .. I believe E85 is 105 octane rating.

You will love E85 ... your car is more responsive at lower RPMs , I mean it spools faster.

Last edited by gerrb; 08-25-13 at 06:02 AM.
Old 08-25-13, 06:08 AM
  #1703  
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With the new sensors and programming finally on the AEM, how much would it cost, you think to do what you are stating. I am afraid not to do anything on E85 until I put in a second pump, install a bigger feed line and use the existing feed line for the return. Then the big thing, is having a retune....... WOW !!!! I would to reach the 600 with the current setup now. I think 1JZ would like to run a little cooler with the help of my new Mishimoto radiator......, but then I step back and say, is this pushing the 1JZ a little past the comfortable range????????

Soon my truck will be back from the local shop, and the SC will be parked alot. Been a daily driver now for over four months. Not complaining, but I didn't put this tie and effort to be a daily driver.
Old 08-25-13, 06:27 AM
  #1704  
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You need to do some mods on your setup definitely . You already have another new Denso pump which you can install. You are right , you need a bigger feed line since you need 30-40% more fuel . The Flex Fuel Sensor is less than $100. Make sure your fuel filters can handle ethanol. To dip into the 600rwhp , your 800cc injectors won't make it. You will have to go bigger injectors... then your retune.

Whether you are pushing your stock 1jz block , that is another question the gurus can answer. I guess it depends on how much mileage does the block really have and how healthy it is. Maybe you can do a compression and leakdown test.
Old 08-25-13, 09:18 AM
  #1705  
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What is the best way to keep those headlights clean and shiny ? I have cleaned and buffed these almost two months ago.. now they are hazy again. Will it help applying clearcoat after cleaning and buffing ?





Old 08-25-13, 09:37 AM
  #1706  
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Dang Jerry, thats too much chrome and polished stuff going on. JK. Looks great man. Is the front bumper on correctly? It looks off a little on the passenger side. The headlight issue is you have removed the actual factory clear coat. You will have to continually buff them out. I would start by using 1500 grit sandpaper with water. Remove the haze. Then take some finishing compound with a wool pad and buff them out. Then change pads, to a cotton one, then use a sealant compound to finish the look and add some protection. The clean the pad, then apply some carnuba wax, then buff off. Bam, step back and enjoy your headlights. If the yellow doesn't go away, then you will have to pull the headlights apart and buff them or buy new ones.

Where did you get the aluminum or chrome piece in front of your radiator? I was thinking of adding one, but I think it might be a bit much since the new radiator will be polished also.
Old 08-25-13, 11:01 AM
  #1707  
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Wetsand the headlights with 1000 grit, clean them with IPA or some sort of dish soap. Once they are dry, put a couple of coats of automotive clear on them. I've seen this done many times and they won't yellow again for at least another 5-10 years. Best bet to use some sort of 2 part clear coat, not a cheapo rattle can one.
Old 08-25-13, 11:55 AM
  #1708  
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Originally Posted by 1JZPWRD
Dang Jerry, thats too much chrome and polished stuff going on. JK. Looks great man. Is the front bumper on correctly? It looks off a little on the passenger side. The headlight issue is you have removed the actual factory clear coat. You will have to continually buff them out. I would start by using 1500 grit sandpaper with water. Remove the haze. Then take some finishing compound with a wool pad and buff them out. Then change pads, to a cotton one, then use a sealant compound to finish the look and add some protection. The clean the pad, then apply some carnuba wax, then buff off. Bam, step back and enjoy your headlights. If the yellow doesn't go away, then you will have to pull the headlights apart and buff them or buy new ones.

Where did you get the aluminum or chrome piece in front of your radiator? I was thinking of adding one, but I think it might be a bit much since the new radiator will be polished also.
Originally Posted by 97-SC300
Wetsand the headlights with 1000 grit, clean them with IPA or some sort of dish soap. Once they are dry, put a couple of coats of automotive clear on them. I've seen this done many times and they won't yellow again for at least another 5-10 years. Best bet to use some sort of 2 part clear coat, not a cheapo rattle can one.
Thank you guys , will do that now !

Mark - I know I have to give some love on the exterior of my red mamba. I was all about the go fast stuff on this car and its interior and been lacking on the exterior. Actually its the high beam light that is not bolted that is why it is not right on the center of the bumper hole. The aluminum covers in front of the radiator , I did them. Bought an aluminum plate , did the cutout and got them polished.

With just one minute of wet sanding , you can already tell , the haze / yellowing starts to disappear . I will get a good automotive clear coat. I will take them out of the car once I will clear coat them. At this point I will sand them while on the car so I don't have to hold them. The paint I am not so worried since the car is eventually getting a good paint job.

Old 08-25-13, 12:16 PM
  #1709  
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After 10 minutes of wet sanding and washing the passenger side headlight looks a lot clearer . Once done with sanding , will buff and clear coat.



Old 08-25-13, 04:06 PM
  #1710  
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About an hour of sanding and buffing .. here they are ..





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