gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Please bear with me here. As I mentioned at the start of this harness build , it won't be a one sitting thing. I will work on the harness when I feel like it then document it on this thread. Now, I have decided to work on two harnesses at the same time... my harness for the Red Mamba 2 and that of my buddy Aaron.

It would be beneficial for this thread if I work on both harnesses at the same time and document them since one will be for manual transmission since Aaron is using an R154. That will help those who are doing a harness for a manual transmission like R154, W58 or V160 6 speed.

Mine for the RM2 should be a 6 speed V160 but I will make a harness with the auto trans wiring included so that people reading this thread who are building a harness for a swap with an auto transmission will get help too. What made me decide to keep my auto trans wiring ? It's because of a question I received and will answer in a Q&A post next . Besides , if I still have the auto trans wiring on my harness , if later I decide to install my ATF built Auto TT transmission , my harness is ready. Usually when you get a 2jzgte harness built with auto trans they are more expensive in the vicinity of $200 more. Why ? There are more wirings and consequently more work to be done.

So as mentioned , I am working on two harnesses at the same time when I feel like working on them so bear with me please. I know some are excited to get it done so they can work on theirs. I am doing exactly what I write here on two different harnesses. If there are differences between an auto or manual tranny harness I will point them out .

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Q) There was a time I got a 2jzgte harness done for my Lexus SC300. At that time I was looking at stock auto transmission so the harness was for an auto tranny. But now , I have decided to go manual transmission , do I need another harness done or can I use same 2jzgte harness done with auto transmission wiring ?

Simple answer is yes , you can use the same 2jzgte harness done for auto tranny for your manual transmission with a very minor modification. The auto tranny connectors on that harness won't be plugged anywhere since you don't have an auto tranny. But a slight modification on a connector that is needed for the manual transmission would have to be done... really minor.

One thing I was told but never experienced so you need to verify yourself please , you can run your 2jzgte engine with manual transmission with a 2jzgte auto tranny harness and Auto TT ECU . IT IS NOT OPTIMAL though since an auto ecu takes care of auto tranny shift points does fuel trim and timing are affected . Since you don't have an auto tranny being controlled , the way your engine runs won''t be the best. But for the sake of just test driving if you don't have a MANUAL 2jzgte ECU yet , I guess its a good thing to know. But please don't quote me on this since I have never experience really running a car that way on the street. BUT I have started a car with 2jzgte V160 tranny with auto TT ECU just to check if there is a problem with my 6 speed TT ECU. And no doubt that engine will start if its a good ECU.

On the other hand , if you have a 2jzgte harness for a 6 speed / manual transmission , you will never be able to use it with a 2jzgte engine with auto transmission without modifiying it. Some work needs to be done to include all those wirings / connectors so the auto transmission can be controlled by your Auto TT ECU. And no you cannot use a 2jzgte 6 speed ECU to controll a 2jzgte engine with auto transmission. It doesn't have those internal circuitry on the ECU to control the auto tranny.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

While I have these two SC300 harnesses intact , let me throw these pictures in here so to emphasize the point that not all SC300 wiring harnesses are the same and why the length of extension wires for your Aristo may vary . Put your aristo 2jzgte and sc300/sc400 side by side and see how much length you really need to extend the Aristo harness. In fact I got away extending only 12 inches a friend's harness. So the 16-22" was just really being very safe that's why I mentioned those numbers . You don't want your harness being short since it will be behind the AC blower and wont be able to connect the ECU. Being longer wont really do any harm after all. But if you are a perfectionist and wanted an exact lenght for wire extension. You need to do measurements on your Aristo and SC harness .. check their length difference.

These are two SC300 harness , observe their length from the firewall . Not exactly the same








One has more body plugs than the other. That is the reason having the particular year model wiring diagram for your car helps a lot. Not all Lexus SC wiring diagrams are same.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

man that's going to be an awesome thread about the harness's when you make it! Thanks in advance!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I hope I can pull it off man... that is , work on the harnesses and at the same time find time to take pictures and document what I am doing. It will help a lot of people save hundreds of dollars if they are doing a 2jzgte swap. Even if this is for an SC , it will benefit others with different cars also since the process is the same .. being the same engine and the basic 2jzgte harness is already there... other cars will just have different body plugs. But having the wiring diagrams of such cars will help them connect the body plugs into the 2jzgte base harness they started with.

That's the reason I agreed with Mark (1JZPWRD) that we make a separate thread once I am all done so a lot of people may find the thread , see how I did it and hopefully benefit from it. As I said , it may not be the best way of doing it but if at the end of the day , they have a good working 2jzgte harness for their 2jzgte swapped car , that is hundreds of dollar saved there. I know there are threads out there with bits and pieces of information on how to do it but still I had a number of people PMed me asking questions since last year and my very own local friends finding it hard with just the info they have found so far. The number of harness being sent to me by friends to help them are increasing.. , So if this write-up will help , then I don't have to do it for any one . I am trying my best to explain things in layman's term in as much as I can. So even those without electrical or electronics background can do it . The most important wirings are already done for us if you use your 2jzgte ARISTO harness as the base.

And I hope people continue to ask questions if there are portions they don't understand. I am here to help.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

All those wires that can be extended on the part of the harness which would not go inside the firewall will be far from the 80 pin and Aristo plugs



After having extended them , I usually pull them nearer the plugs like this ...



It gives me a visual of how many wires I have done and an idea how much more to be done .. OOOOPS ..still a lot since we only have done a few .

Let me give a sample of verifying continuity from one end of a connector to the other end of the connector to check your solder points on the extensions. .

Remember those pins 52 to 58 on the 80 pin connector whose wires we just extended and where they should end in terms of continuity ?



Do you still recall these ?

Pin 1 of the 12 pin Igniter Connector goes to pin 57 of the 80 pin ECU connector
Pin 2 of the 12 pin Igniter Connector goes to pin 56 of the 80 pin ECU connector
Pin 3 of the 12 pin Igniter Connector goes to pin 55 of the 80 pin ECU connector
Pin 9 of the 12 pin Igniter Connector goes to pin 54 of the 80 pin ECU connector
Pin 8 of the 12 pin Igniter Connector goes to pin 53 of the 80 pin ECU connector
Pin 7 of the 12 pin Igniter Connector goes to pin 52 of the 80 pin ECU connector
Pin 3 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector goes to pin 58 of the 80 pin ECU connector

So how do you check continuity for those who are not electrically savvy ?

Get your digital multi-tester .. cheapo like what I used here doesn't matter as long as it works.

Choose a range on the ohmeter part . Initially you will have infinity denoted by 1 when those two probes are not connected together just like this



Now we start probing Pin 3 of 4 pin Igniter Connector that should be connected to pin 58 of the 80 pin ECU connector . What do you see on the multi-tester ? If you had good solder points, you should see a value on your multi-tester just like this



Take note that the actual number may not be the same as what you see here because there are other factors like the OHM range setting your multi-tester is in , battery of your multi-tester , etc. The most important thing is if from 1 on the left of the display which denotes infinity , you get a lower number on the right of the display then you know that there is a continuous path for current from one end to the other end . That wiring of yours is good and the solder points you did along that line were good. The number displayed actually is the resistance to current in the circuit which is measured in ohms.

ERASE ERASE , that last sentence...lol . I don't want people who are not technical enough to be discouraged and prevent them from working on the harness , you didn't have to know that to be successful in doing a harness.

Many times just to check whether there is a continuous path from one end to the other end , I prefer using a continuity probes where in an light comes on if there is a good connection from one end to the other. You can also use an analog multi-tester / ohmeter , the moment you see that freaking arm goes from left to right , you know there is continuity .

just like this pictured below

from no continuity (tester pointer / arm on the left )



now the tester pointer / arm is on the right which means the wire in between pin 58 of the 80 pin ECU Connector and pin 3 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector is GOOD, that includes your two solder points on that line since you extended it . If let's say you don't get a good continuity in one of them , one thing you need to check is your solder points. One of them might have been disconnected or there is a cut on the wire from one end to the other end , thus you need to repair it by soldering it where you find the cut portion.

Now , I will assume you have done this to every wire we have gone through so far. If not then you didn't do THE DRILL on the 4 connectors which I have asked you to do ... go back and do it . I am about to show you how I do the CHART but it won't make any sense if you haven't done what you should have done already.

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Taking the time to do all this is just pure awesome and might even put some harness builders out of business Some day ill be using this info for a gte if I ever go that way

Anyways ill stop spamming your thread.... please continue lol

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Hehehe , no worries , you are not spamming my thread. That is the reason I did it here so nobody complains since it's my thread . Thanks a lot for appreciating it ! Motivates me more to finish it .. hahaha. Again , for everyone who comes across this 2jzgte harness build thread , if there is something unclear so far , let me know please.

Doing this write-up , it was not my intention to take away potential business from those who do harnesses as source of living. As I have said , I did it to help first my friends who I encouraged to do their own harness so to save money , started it and then just to find out they gave up since whatever info they found on the net was not enough to get them going. They reached a road block. I can actually name their names here .. lmaol . They know who they are. I have their harnesses now. And I kept on wondering what was it preventing people when the main 2jzgte harness is already done for us if you started with a 2jzgte Aristo harness . Then other friends telling me , hey you better document how you did it so people who have no money to spend $1000 on a harness can be helped... so here we are. I hope nobody gets mad at me just because I am doing a 2jzgte harness write up.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

As I mentioned , I usually do a chart just to know what pins I have worked on and verified . You don't have to do this but can be of help later on. Usually when I am all done with the harness and is all fully wrapped , I do a second check of the harness for quality control . Having this as reference , I have a quick guide which pin of a connector goes to which pin of another connector. I don't have to go through all those wiring diagrams again .

Something like this shown below ....... . I am not going to write all the pin numbers here since they are empty. Fill up the chart as they are done . It gives you a good , quick view of where a pin goes and a good summary of what had been done and checked on each connector of the harness.

What does CHECKED ,mean ? It means that I have finished working on it , checked continuity and have nothing more to do with it.

80 PIN ECU CONNECTOR
1
2

10

20

30

40
48 <--> Pin 3 of the Oxygen Sensor CHECKED
50
51
52 <--> Pin 7 of the 12 pin Igniter Connector CHECKED
53 <--> Pin 8 of the 12 pin igniter Connector CHECKED
54 <--> Pin 9 of the 12 pin igniter Connector CHECKED
55 <--> Pin 3 of the 12 pin igniter Connector CHECKED
56 <--> Pin 2 of the 12 pin Igniter Connector CHECKED
57 <--> Pin 1 of the 12 pin Igniter Connector CHECKED
58 <--> Pin 3 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector CHECKED
59
60

70
71 <--> Pin 1 of the Oxygen Sensor CHECKED
80

4 PIN IGNITER CONNECTOR
1 <--> Pin 12 of Plug F of Aristo plug <--> ( Pin 19 of the Data Link Connector & to ( SC3 IK1-8 , SC4 IK1-8 , MK4 ))
2 <--> Pin 6 of Plug F of Aristo plug <--> Pin 1 of the Noise Filter <--> ( SC3 IJ1-7 , SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )
3 <--> Pin 58 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
4 <--> Ground Connector on the Front Side of Intake Manifold <--> Pin 2 of the Noise filter Connector CHECKED

12 PIN IGNITER CONNECTOR
1 <--> Pin 57 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
2 <--> Pin 56 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
3 <--> Pin 55 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
4 <--> Pin 2 of the Ignition Coil Connector 3 CHECKED
5 <--> Pin 2 of the Ignition Coil Connector 2 CHECKED
6 <--> Pin 2 of the Ignition Coil Connector 1 CHECKED
7 <--> Pin 52 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
8 <--> Pin 53 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
9 <--> Pin 54 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
10 <--> Pin 2 of the Ignition Coil Connector 4 CHECKED
11 <--> Pin 2 of the Ignition Coil Connector 5 CHECKED
12 <--> Pin 2 of the Ignition Coil Connector 6 CHECKED

IGNITION COIL 1
1
2 <--> Pin 6 of the 12 Pin Igniter Connector CHECKED

IGNITION COIL 2
1
2 <--> Pin 5 of the 12 Pin Igniter Connector CHECKED

IGNITION COIL 3
1
2 <--> Pin 4 of the 12 Pin Igniter Connector CHECKED

IGNITION COIL 4
1
2 <--> Pin 10 of the 12 Pin Igniter Connector CHECKED

IGNITION COIL 5
1
2 <--> Pin 11 of the 12 Pin Igniter Connector CHECKED

IGNITION COIL 6
1
2 <--> Pin 12 of the 12 Pin Igniter Connector CHECKED


NOISE FILTER
1 <--> Pin 2 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector <--> ( SC3 IJ1-7, SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )
2 <--> Ground Connector on the Front Side of Intake Manifold <--> Pin 4 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector CHECKED


The following plugs are necessary only if you are going stock 2jzgte setup

Oxygen Sensor O2
1 <--> Pin 71 of the 80 pin ECU Connector CHECKED
2 <--> Pin 3 of Plug E of Aristo Plug <-> ( Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector <--> ( SC3 IJ1-12 & EB2-1 & Short-4 , SC4 IJ1-12 & EB2-3 , MK4 EA3-3 ))
3 <--> Pin 48 of the 80 pin ECU Connector CHECKED


The following plugs needs to be taken out

BIG GRAY ARISTO PLUG

PLUG E
3 <--> Pin 2 of Oxygen Sensor <--> (Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector <--> ( SC3 IJ1-12 & EB2-1 & Short-4 , SC4 IJ1-12 & EB2-3 , MK4 EA3-3 ))

PLUG F
6 <--> Pin 1 of the Noise Filter <--> ( SC3 IJ1-7 , SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )
12 <--> ( Pin 19 of the Data Link Connector & to ( SC3 IK1-8 , SC4 IK1-8 , MK4 ))

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

this is truly amazing work. thank you for doing this to help everyone. what I want to see is the wiring modification on the a/c circuit as mine does not work lol with a tweak harness lol. ill wait on that part

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Let me give you the tools to check whether what we are doing is right . I want you to verify for yourself that I just didn't pick up the pin numbers of plugs randomly and where they should go.

I will post wiring diagrams so you can verify the Pin Numbers we wrote on the INFO section of plugs we worked on and have the chance to trace the wiring . If you cannot read wiring diagrams , DO NOT WORRY ABOUT THEM. YOU DO NOT NEED TO LEARN HOW TO READ THEM. It won't stop you from doing the 2jzgte harness because I have written down basically everything you needed. These diagrams are just cross references for those who wants to verify what I have written so far.

I will post diagrams related only to the plugs we are currently working on. So as not to be distracted with the other components on the diagram , I enclosed the components / connectors we are working on with a BLUE ELLIPSIS . Just look at those components . You will have the pin numbers written , same ones I wrote on the INFO of plugs. If the pin numbers are too small for you and can't be seen , you either use the magnifier on your computer or print the photo .


DIAGRAMS TO VERIFY PIN NUMBERING & WHERE THE WIRE GOES


*** Noise Filter / 4 Pin & 12 Pin Igniter Connectors ***

IF you observe the igniter , anything that is labeled V belongs to the 12 pin Igniter Connector and anything labeled W belongs to the 4 pin Igniter Connector


From the diagram above , you don't see were Pin 2 of the Noise Filter and Pin 4 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector goes to ... reducing the size of diagram helps now.


What we have on the diagram below is a 4 pin oxygen sensor . Don't worry about it . Just verify pins 1 to 3. In a 4 pin oxygen sensor , usually two are ground or what they call common , one for the heater ground and one for the signal ground so in effect it can be just one wire. The pin 4 is just a ground which goes to Pin 3 (E1) of the diagnostic port and the Ground on the Rear Side of the Intake Manifold . That is the reason you can get away with 3 wire oxygen sensors.






The following diagrams maybe confusing to many. If they are, don't even bother with them. YOU DO NOT NEED THEM . It's for those who can analyze wiring diagrams. Just showing you how the PROs do it. It is actually reading the functionality of a pin (what it is for) on the 2jzgte harness then looking for that wire on your car for the same functionality so you know where to connect a particular wire. This is the hardwork that's why you pay high dollar for a harness. That hardwork has been done for you already in our 2jzgte harness build.



DIAGRAMS TO VERIFY WHERE A WIRE SHOULD GO IN A SC300, SC400, MKIV

Do you remember these notations I have written in parenthesis and bold characters like ( should go to Pin 19 of the Data Link Connector & to ( SC3 IK1-8 , SC4 IK1-8 , MK4 )) ? How do you know what plug and pin the wire should go on the SC300 , SC400 or MKIV ? By reading the wiring diagrams of those particular cars.

Pin 1 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector which you took out of Pin 12 of Plug F of the big gray Aristo plug ( should go to Pin 19 of the Data Link Connector & to ( SC3 IK1-8 , SC4 IK1-8 , MK4 )) . This pin, looking at the 2jzgte REFERENCE INFO is for the TACH . So looking at my SC300 diagram , it tells me that this TACH pin goes to pin 8 of connector IK1 (encircled in red on the diagram) and to the Data Link Connector. On the SC400 diagram , it tells me that the TACH pin goes also to pin 8 of connector IK1 (encircled in yellow on the diagram ) and to the Data Link Connector . On my MKIV , it tells me that it goes to the Data Link Connector / Tachometer. THUS the 2jzgte Pin 1 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector goes to SC3 IK1-8 or SC4 IK1-8 AND goes to Pin 19 of the Data Link Connector for the SC300 , SC400 and MKIV.

SC300 IK1-8 / SC400 IK1-8


MKIV


If I further follow the diagram link above to the Data Link Connector for the SC300 , SC400 and MKIV , it will show me that indeed that same Pin 1 of the Igniter Connector goes to Pin 19 of the Data Link Connector

SC300


SC400


MKIV




Pin 2 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector which you took out of Pin 6 of Plug F of the big gray Aristo plug ( should go to ( SC3 IJ1-7 , SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )) . This pin, looking at the 2jzgte REFERENCE INFO is for the B+ (voltage) source. On the SC300 , the B+ pin goes to Pin 7 of connector IJ1 . On the SC400 it goes to Pin 2 of connector EB2 . And on the MKIV it goes to Pin 1 or 9 of connector IJ1 for the MK4. Again check what is encircled in yellow for the SC400 , in red for the SC300 and in orange for the MKIV.

SC300 / SC400


MKIV



Pin 1 of the Noise Filter Connector ( should go to ( SC3 IJ1-7, SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )) . This pin which is connected to Pin 2 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector would consequently go to the same places were Pin 2 did . That means , on the SC300 , it goes to Pin 7 of connector IJ1 , goes to Pin 2 of connector EB2 for the SC400 and Pin 1 or 9 of connector IJ1 for the MK4. Again check what is encircled in yellow for the SC400 , in red for the SC300 and in orange for the MKIV.

SC300 IJ1-7 / SC400 EB-2 also you see in blue where Pin 1 of the Noise Filter intersect with Pin 2 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector



MKIV IJ1-1 or IK1-9 also you see in blue where Pin 1 of the Noise Filter intersect with Pin 2 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector





Pin 2 of the Oxygen Sensor which you took out of Pin 3 of Plug E of Aristo Plug ( should go to Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector & to ( SC3 IJ1-12 & EB2-1 & Short-4 , SC4 IJ1-12 & EB2-3 , MK4 EA3-3 )). Pin 2 of the 2jzgte harness (if you are keeping the oxygen sensor) is the B+ supply for the oxygen sensor. For the SC300 , that wire is connected to Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector and to Pin 12 of Connector IJ1 and to Pin 1 of Connector EB2 and to Pin 4 of the Short Connector . For the SC400 , that wire is connected to Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector and to Pin 12 of Connector IJ1 and to Pin 3 of Connector EB2. For the MKIV , that wire is connected to Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector and to Pin 3 of Connector EA3.

SC300 (read the first picture below to be on the right side of the second picture so you see the continous flow of that orange line)
\



If I further follow the wiring diagram where the SHORT CONNECTOR is it will show me that the same Pin goes to pin 4 of the SHORT CONNECTOR



SC400 (read the first picture below to be on the right side of the second picture so you see the continous flow of that yellow line)




MKIV (read the first picture below to be on the right side of the second picture so you see the continous flow of that red line). Take note that on a USDM MKIV , there are more than one oxygen sensors. On a California edition , even more . That is why you see three on the following diagram.





I have shown you how to deduce and find out where a 2jzgte harness wire should go in a SC300 , SC400 , MKIV body plug. Just check its functionality from the 2jzgte REFERENCE INFO and deduce from your particular car's wiring diagram where it should go. I couldn't possibly show you something like this for all the wires that go to a body plug. I would never finish this write up. But I hope you are able to assimilate the process of doing it. That is what you pay big bucks for . The skill and time they put into the work. That hard work , you don't have to do if you follow well this harness build thread.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Your request had been noted . We will try to touch every part of the harness build . Thanks for the appreciation !

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Non VVTi 2jzgte Lexus SC Engine Harness Build - Post # 22

I know at this point , you are supposed to be done working on the 4 plugs we have discussed in the previous posts. Allow me to add some pictures here for what I have done on the two harnesses I was working on .

To start with on both harnesses , I had these



For Aaron's harness which will be on a R154 and no catalytic converter and with AEM v2 , he doesn't need the stock oxygen sensor plug. For my harness , although I would be on a stroker 3.4 engine , V160 and proEFI , I still want to keep my harness as stock as possible keeping the oxygen sensor , auto transmission wiring , etc. so I have a sample harness for this build thread and for those doing a stock 2jzgte swap with auto transmission. Having all the auto transmission plugs , that gives me the flexibility of using either my V160 6 speed or my ATF auto transmission with just minor modifications on the harness depending on which transmission I am using.

It is nice to have less wires going around the engine bay ,cleaner look. On my Red Mamba 1 , there are no wires on top of that passenger strut tower . Having built my harness from an Aristo 2jzgte harness , the Igniter and Noise Filter plugs were at the farthest point that is why you probably see my igniter down there on the left side of the picture... kind a dark when I took the picture some time ago during the RM1 build process.



I prefer to relocate my oxygen sensor plug and wiring at the back near the firewall since that sensor will be on the downpipe. If I keep my wiring for the oxygen sensor where it is right now then those wires will have to go from front to my aftermarket down pipe thus will be an eyesore. If you are going just for a stock 2jzgte swap , leave the plug where it is , less work.

Thus , for the two harnesses , I re-used the wires that go to pin 1 & 2 of the oxygen sensor for my boost solenoid. Pin 1 goes to pin 71 of the 80 pin ECU connector. Pin 2 is already connected to a B+ voltage supply which is needed for a solenoid. Took out the pins from their plugs and labeled them accordingly so I know what they are for. I also have taken note that I will have to put my own wiring for an oxygen sensor later on once I am in that area of the harness where I wanted the plug to be.

NOTE : If you are reusing a wire for something else like a signal wire , make sure that it is a wire in which there is nothing T'ed to it along the way to the ECU connectors not unless it is really to be T'ed let us say to a B+ supply or a ground for a sensor.

Once I was done doing THE DRILL on all these plugs , I covered them with electrical tape. Since the noise filter ,4 & 12 pin igniter connectors where going to one place , I wrapped them all together . And eventually covered them with a corrugated flexible hose as you can see in one of the harness. I had to label also wires without plugs so I knew what they were for.



On the other end where the ECU connectors are , since there are a lot of loose ends , I make sure that all wires that are not in a connector are properly labeled . I separate wires accordingly. Like all those extra wires that are for future use are all together and all those wires that go to different body plugs are all together.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Q) I was wondering what exactly has to be modified for this motor to work in my 03 350z ?

If you are referring to what modifications you need to do on the harness of the Aristo 2jzgte for the 2jzgte motor to work on your 350z , you will need the body plugs of your 350z. If you look at the engine harness of your 350z , all those plugs connected to your engine aside from the plugs that connect directly to your 350z ECU are the body plugs. The actual 2jzgte motor harness is already there . You just have to clean it up, make sure all connectors are good , all wirings are good and has good connectivity from one end to the other and more likely extend some wires. Honestly I have never seen a 350z harness, thus it needs extending , I don't know. If you have one and send me pictures and get me measurements I can probably tell you.

When I reach that part of merging the body plugs of the SC300 / SC400 into the 2jzgte Aristo of this harness build ,you will see more what I mean. Actually they will come in one at a time.

I know a lot of people are waiting for that part of the harness build , merging of all those body plugs to the 2jzgte harness. At this point , I am trying to do it in phases slowly so those who are not electrically inclined won't be confused. I know someone whose an electronics engineer and whose profession is into electronics but gave up working on the harness. It is not because that he doesn't know .., damn , he works on more complicated electronic cuircuits and cuircuit boards but CONFUSION was the culprit . And I know somebody else without any electronics background but is working on these harnesses. When you have so many cut / unfinished wires , time will come you don't know which is which , So take it slowly , finish one phase or part at a time before working on the other part. Before you know it, you are done with your harness.

Do the easy part first. Just like , I am cleaning, extending , checking all those connectors / wires first that are already done for us on the 2jzgte ARISTO harness. Once you are done with the easy part , then you can isolate them and you are working on less wires .. less confusion.

ORDERLINESS is the secret in the 2jzgte harness build. You get those tons of wires in a mess and you are done .. you have a ball of messed wires and you give up. Just bear with me on this build, I am trying to do it in such a way that even people who have no electrical background will understand and be able to do it . I am showing the very details of how to do things as much as I can and will post all the necessary diagrams for those who can read diagrams and for those who can't if you have observed , I have been putting into words what to do.

Q) I am trying to teach myself how to read diagrams so I can do this harness to save $1000 .. do I really need to learn how to read diagrams ?

Knowing how to read wiring diagrams helps a lot. But if you probably observed , I have been explaining every step into this harness build even the obvious because I am trying to do it in such a way that even those without strong electrical / electronics background would be helped. As long as you can solder , use a multi-tester / ohmeter and follow directions , you don't need the diagrams to get a working 2jzgte harness if you read every detail of what I write. I will try to touch every pin of every connector on that 2jzgte harness.. what to do with them. If I miss something , just ask please. Exactly the reason why I introduced a chart also even if I myself do not need it . It is a help for people to be organized , know what they have done and what else to be done. Once all that chart is completed , your harness is ready to be installed .

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I hope that up to this point , you have done and understood what I have said so far (probably not the previous wiring diagrams but that is alright , you really don't need them) . You at least need to understand what we have talked about so far because THE DRILL will be a repititious job . It will be done over and over on all the plugs of the Aristo 2jzgte harness. I am not gonna explain how to do it again. I will just say , "Now you do THE DRILL " and would expect you to have the results we have here.

Remember me saying , as much as possible , do not leave a group of connectors until you are done with all the pins / wiring associated with them ? Observing the picture below , you know that all the pins inside the blue ellipsis had already been covered. Some of those pins for the 12 pin Igniter Connector go to the ignition coils. It is just but proper that we work on those ignition coils now since we have worked on all the Pins # 2 of those coils. You see the coils in yellow ellipsis.



You see the ignition coil plugs at the center.





The last two plugs that are after the coil plugs are for the VSVs. If you are not using the stock twin turbos, their plugs and wiring can be removed or reused for something else.