gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Q) Is the chart that you keep on updating really necessary ?

Not at all ! For those who have made a couple of 2jzgte harnesses already, am sure they won't need it since they know which wire goes from one pin to the other. I suggested it here cause I know many will be newbies in making a 2jzgte harness. It is a chart to have a visual of what pins of what plugs you have finished working on and still needs to be done.

And later on once fully done .. if you want to do a quality control by checking again continuity from pin to pin of each plug , you can use it as a quick guide . It shows you were each wire goes.

Believe you me , if you are a newbie in making a 2jzgte harness you will thank me later on. I already got two complements from people who have done a harness and said they should have thought of that chart when they did the harness and would have made things easier.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

After talking to a couple of people last night asking them if what I am writing is making sense and is comprehensible , I have been informed that it is and it is very detailed that even one who has never done a harness should find it easy.

I just do hope it is true to all the newbies on 2jzgte harness . If it is not , please let me know what you don't understand .

Here is another question I was asked.

Q Where is the 40 pin ECU Connector A ? Where will I get it ? If it is an ECU connector how come we haven't use it so far ?

If you are installing an Aristo 2jzgte swap for a Lexus SC300 , SC400 , MKIV , any Lexus car with the 2jzge you should have one already from your current engine harness together with the body plugs. If you have a different car like what you have, a 350z .. you will have to secure and buy that 40 pin housing and pins. You know what I suggest , it will be cheaper to buy a 2jzge or 1uzfe harness from the junkyard . That way you also have the wires for extension.

here is a picture.. .. its the big gray connector at the bottom .. all the rest are the body plugs of an SC300 .. and same body plugs for SC400 . This picture was that of a friend's harness who after unwrapping all the harness and cutting things here and there ,gave up . Got confused with so many exposed wires. That is the reason I urged you to work in phases , connector by connector in as much as you can . At times , since some wires go to another connectors you will be forced to work on those connectors simultaneously .




Don't worry , we will use the 40 pin ECU connector . Right now I am concentrating on all the wirings of the ECU 80 pin Connector B .. extending them .. checking the connectivity of all those pins / wires we will use , taking out pins / wires that we won't need in our setup. Just trying to be ORDERLY IN AS MUCH AS I CAN . Once you start introducing so many unwrapped wires and too many connectors , you can get confused which we are trying to avoid for newbies lest they throw in the towel. Just like I said , once you get a ball of messed wires , you end up giving up due to confusion.

Since the harness I am working on right now is for a manual transmission , a lot of the pins on that 40 pin ECU Connector A , I would not use so will take out the pins and wiring just so my harness will be clean and less mess. Go Back to the Reference Info about the 40 pin ECU Connector I posted a few pages back ... read what the pins are for and see what I am referring to .. quite a number of pins are for the auto tranny.

Every pin of those connectors you see above , 40 pin ECU connector and all body plug connectors will be covered just be patient. We ain't done yet with the 80 pin ECU connector B and all the associated wires from different connectors . Let's finish that part first so we can put them aside and then move forward ...Once you are pro , you can do it differently and faster , this guide is for those who never did a 2jzgte harness , trying to help them be organized and not end up confused and consequently giving up.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Now let me give you some tools to counter check what we have written about these plugs.

DIAGRAMS TO VERIFY PIN NUMBERING & WHERE THE WIRE GOES

*** VSVs ***


Crankshaft Position Sensor (Engine Speed Sensor on this Diagram)


*** Water Temperature Sensor ***




DIAGRAMS TO VERIFY WHERE A WIRE SHOULD GO IN A SC300, SC400, MKIV

We don't have to prove that Pin 1 of VSV2 and VSVPMC should go to ( Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector & to ( SC3 IJ1-12 & EB2-1 & Short-4 , SC4 IJ1-12 & EB2-3 , MK4 EA3-3 )) Why ? It is because right from the start we have shown how Pin 2 of the Oxygen sensor goes to ( Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector & to ( SC3 IJ1-12 & EB2-1 & Short-4 , SC4 IJ1-12 & EB2-3 , MK4 EA3-3 )) . If you don't remember , go back to where we dealt with the Oxygen Sensor Plug. We also have shown previously that Pin 1 of VSV1 & VSV3 goes to Pin 2 of the Oxygen Sensor . On the diagram above you see Pin 1 of VSV2 and VSVPMC goes to Pin 1 of VSV1 & VSV3 . ERGO , Pin 1 of VSV2 & VSVPMC should go to ( Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector & to ( SC3 IJ1-12 & EB2-1 & Short-4 , SC4 IJ1-12 & EB2-3 , MK4 EA3-3 ))

That sounds confusing right ? Then forget it ! , you don't really need to know that.

This is what we need to show , how do we know that Pin 1 of the Water Temperature Gauge Sender should go to ( SC3 IK1-9 , SC4 IK1-9 & Short-3 , MK4 II1-19 )

SC300 in yellow / SC400 in orange


MKIV in red

NOLAGG

Awesome . Ok now since you know that I will be tackling this for a 350z, your saying that I need the main body harness connected off of a 2jzge equipped car, auto or manual ? Also is it not possible to just wire up the 350z body plug to the 2jzgte aristo harness instead ? The 350z uses can bus communication , will that effect anything ? And also still trying to fig out what diagram you need lol. Thanks again for taking your time out to write all this info !!!!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Non VVTi 2jzgte Lexus SC Engine Harness Build - Question & Answers

Q)Ok now since you know that I will be tackling this for a 350z, your saying that I need the main body harness connected off of a 2jzge equipped car, auto or manual ? Also is it not possible to just wire up the 350z body plug to the 2jzgte aristo harness instead ? The 350z uses can bus communication , will that effect anything ? And also still trying to fig out what diagram you need lol.

I believe, you might not be understanding my email answers to your questions..

Let's do this , to make it simple for you...which body plugs of the 350z you need ?

You see this 350z engine lets say that came out of your car. There you see the 350z engine harness wrapped around. Some of those plugs in that harness will be the body plugs and you will need them .



In addition , since you don't have the 40 pin ECU connector in a 2jzgte aristo harness , you will need to secure that . That is the reason I suggested getting a 2jzge engine harness from the junkyard so its cheaper and you can use the wires for extensions.

Is it possible to wire the 350z body plug to the 2jzgte aristo harness? That is exactly what you will do later that is why you need the 350z body plugs.

No offense meant , I suggest you familiarize yourself with your 350z wiring so you know exactly which connectors you will need to use with the Aristo harness as I have never done a 2jzgte swap on a 350z. I will give you a hint . On one side of that 350z engine harness is where you connect the 350z ecu. Any connector whose pin do not terminate into the 350z ecu but instead into another plug , you will most likely need.

Right now we are just working on the 2jzgte engine components that will be common to all cars if they use this engine. Then I will delve into the body plugs of the SC300 / SC400 / MKIV since they are the cars that I have. But knowing what each wire is for , you should be able to know where to connect it into the body plugs of your car if its something else like a 350z. But even then , you should know where that wire will go into your car that is the reason I said , you got to familiarize yourself with the wirings of your car . It will be different for every car and it will be impossible to discuss all the body plugs of every car. That is the reason those who do the harness charge big bucks, it is knowledge they put together looking at the different wiring diagrams for the 2jzgte engine and the car it is being installed. That is the reason some moderators here have said it right , many are not willing to share the knowledge. They worked hard for it .

If you notice , in our CHART , we write down if a particular wire from the 2jzgte engine harness is going to a body plug and we will note down what it is for so you guys who have different cars from ours , know what it is for and where it should go.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I hate to digress so much from the portion of the harness we are currently working on lest I create confusion . But allow me to throw this in here since someone mentioned body plugs.

My buddy Aaron (which I know wouldn't mind naming him as an example just to help others) works with electronics.... PCBs , PLCs .. what not . So you can't really say that electrical is something hard for him. He can read wiring diagrams . In fact I have given him all the wiring diagrams for the SC300 , SC400 and MKIV and what not . But being his first time in making a 2jzgte harness and all excited, happened to make a mistake and after that decided to give up on the harness. Having all the money in this world , he was ready to throw $1000 to buy a brand new harness. Aaron , I wish I had your bank accout , lmaol.

He thought , All he needed from the SC300 2jzge harness was the 40 pin ECU connector and the body plugs . This is what he did . He cut the harness to get just the body plugs and 40 pin connector.



You guys better be careful with your original engine harness , when you take out the body plugs. There are also some plugs that may be needed , plugs that do not end up in any component in the engine itself or on the car's ecu.

Let me give you an example. These plugs you see encircled are found on the SC300 / SC400 / MKIV harness below the fuse box. They are directly connected to the engine harness to supply power or connectivity to some other components . Aaron , you should have not cut that freaking harness.. .. peace buddy. !



Damn, now I don't remember what part of the harness build we are in.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Are you still with me ? Ready to jump to another part of the harness ?

I am referring to these ones pictured here . They are next in line .



For the Red Mamba 2 harness, I have unwrapped up to a certain point so I can pull out the O2 sensor Pin 3 wire out as you see on the bottom left of the picture



Let's label the connectors and let me give you the INFO you need to do THE DRILL

1) Injector No. 1
Pin 1 of Injector No. 1 goes to Pin 20 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
Pin 2 of Injector No. 1 (should go to (SC3 IJ1-7 or IJ1-3 & short 3 & short 5 , SC40 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-9))


2) Sub-Throttle Position Sensor
Pin 1 of Sub-Throttle Position Sensor goes also to Pin 65 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
Pin 2 of Sub-Throttle Position Sensor goes to Pin 63 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
Pin 3 of Sub-Throttle Position Sensor goes to Pin 42 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
Pin 4 of Sub-Throttle Position Sensor goes also to Pin 41 of the 80 pin ECU Connector

3) Throttle Motor Valve
Pin 1 of Throttle Motor Valve goes to Pin 8 of Plug C of Big Gray Aristo Plug
Pin 2 of Throttle Motor Valve goes to Pin 11 of Plug C of Big Gray Aristo Plug
Pin 3 of Throttle Motor Valve goes to Pin 7 of Plug C of Big Gray Aristo Plug
Pin 4 of Throttle Motor Valve goes to Pin 4 of Plug C of Big Gray Aristo Plug
Pin 5 of Throttle Motor Valve goes to Pin 6 of Plug C of Big Gray Aristo Plug
Pin 6 of Throttle Motor Valve goes to Pin 3 of Plug C of Big Gray Aristo Plug

4) Throttle Position Sensor
Pin 1 of Throttle Position Sensor goes to Pin 41 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
Pin 2 of Throttle Position Sensor goes to Pin 43 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
Pin 3 of Throttle Position Sensor goes to Pin 64 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
Pin 4 of Throttle Position Sensor goes to Pin 65 of the 80 pin ECU Connector


Guys , go and do THE DRILL

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

For Aaron's harness , the sub-throttle position sensor plug was already missing on the 2jzgte Aristo harness.



Pulled the wires to be taken out as far as I can , moved those two wires which I will use for my Air Intake Temp sensor and wrapped some part of that harness just to make it clean and prevent those wires from being unruly.




On the second harness I am working on , started with this at this point



I usually take out those throttle motor valve and sub-throttle position sensor plugs . Even if I have to use a Q45 throttle body with a tps that moves in the opposite direction , I can just move around the pins of the original TPS. So these two plugs (throttle motor valve and sub-throttle position sensor are excellent donors for extra wiring for whatever aftermarket sensor you need to wire.


Basically most sensors will need a +voltage and sensor ground. You can get them from Pin 1 (Sensor Ground) and Pin 4 (+Voltage) of the sub-throttle position sensor.

All your aftermarket sensors can have their +Voltage and sensor ground T'ed from the same place like this Pin 1 and Pin 4 of the sub-throttle position sensor

Now listen here carefully if you want to follow what I did on these extra wires .

As mentioned above Pin 3 of the Sub-TPS goes to Pin 42 of the 80 pin ECU Connector and Pin 2 of the Sub-TPS goes to Pin 63 of the 80 pin ECU Connector. I took them out of their 80 pin ECU connector . NOTE : pin 63 of the 80 pin ECU Connector is T'ed to a wire that goes to Pin 6 of Plug D of the Aristo Plug. It's for the traction control open switch which you don't need .Take that out too . But take a note of this one (You many need this info on your SC300 / SC400 / MKIV harness. This maybe in your harness going to a body plug which eventually can probably be taken out) . But for now put labels. Then I took out all the 6 wires with the shield wire from the Plug C of the Aristo plug and labeled them as you see below . Damn , I am a sucker of extra wires on the harness ..lmaol ... hey trust me they will come very handy when you have a lot of after market sensors.

I extended the wires from Pin 42 and Pin 63 of the 80 pin ECU Connector but I didn't extend the 6 wires from the Throttle Motor Valve. I will tell you why in a bit.




At this point , I have to take out all the remaining wraps and covers on the harness. Be careful , don't let the wires be all over the place and be messy.



I wanted to pull those bunch of wires (6 wires from Throttle Valve Motor) which I already labeled and whose plug I already cut and the Oxygen Sensor wire out of that place .


close up of 6 wires


close up of oxygen sensor wire


moved them here


I don't need all those extra wires for now so I will leave them here and when I need some , I know where they are . So why did I not extend those 6 wires from the throttle Motor Valve ? By moving them from front to the back part (firewall area) , you can pull their other end now so they would be of the same length as your other extended extra wires. Here you see all my extra wires all clipped together but well labeled so I know which is which.



Let me show you how the ECU connectors end of the harness for Aaron. On the left are all the extra wires . Then you have the 80 pin ECU connector which by just looking at it , you have an idea how many have been extended already and how much more wires to work on. Then you have those wires I took out of the Aristo plug that need to be extended and needs to go to the body plugs and next the Aristo plug itself.


And this is Aaron's harness where the TPS connector andinjector #1 is. I have 6 individual extra wires plus the +Voltage ( from pin 41) and ground (from pin 65) on that area which can be used for different sensors . Remember that pin 41 and pin 65 wire can be used as voltage supply for all those sensors.


For my second SC harness which is the Red Mamba 2 , this is what I did. You know that I already moved the 6 throttle motor valve wires near the firewall as extra wires but they will need +Voltage and Ground supplies if I will use those wires for sensors . So what did I do . I moved Pin 1 of Sub-TPS (goes to pin 65 of 80 pin ECU Connector) and Pin 4 of Sub-TPS (goes to pin 41 of 80 pin ECU Connector) to the back near the firewall . What is left of the Sub-TPS plug in front was Pin 2 and Pin 3 of the Sub-TPS as extra wires eventually for my Air Temp Sensor .

Here you see the wires of the sub-tps with label and am about to cut that plug


On this picture I have moved Pin 1 and Pin 4 of sub-tps to the back near those 6 extra wires for future sensors.


So what is left in front is the TPS and Injector #1 plug plus 2 individual extra wires .

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Let us update our CHART


80 PIN ECU CONNECTOR
1
2
7 <--> Pin 1 of the Crankshaft Position Sensor CHECKED
10

20 <--> Pin 1 of the Injector No. 1 CHECKED
27 <--> Pin 2 of the Crankshaft Position Sensor CHECKED
30
38 <--> Pin 2 of the VSV3 CHECKED
39 <--> Pin 2 of the VSV2 CHECKED
40 <--> Pin 2 of the VSV1 CHECKED
41 <--> Pin 1 of the TPS <--> Pin 4 of the Sub-TPS CHECKED
42 <--> Pin 3 of the Sub-TPS CHECKED
43 <--> Pin 2 of the TPS CHECKED
44 <--> Pin 2 of the Water Temperature Sensor CHECKED
48 <--> Pin 3 of the O2 Sensor CHECKED
50
51
52 <--> Pin 7 of the 12 pin Igniter Connector CHECKED
53 <--> Pin 8 of the 12 pin igniter Connector CHECKED
54 <--> Pin 9 of the 12 pin igniter Connector CHECKED
55 <--> Pin 3 of the 12 pin igniter Connector CHECKED
56 <--> Pin 2 of the 12 pin Igniter Connector CHECKED
57 <--> Pin 1 of the 12 pin Igniter Connector CHECKED
58 <--> Pin 3 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector CHECKED
59
60 <--> Pin 2 of the VSVPMC CHECKED
63 <--> Pin 2 of the Sub-TPS CHECKED
64 <--> Pin 3 of the TPS CHECKED
65 <--> Pin 1 of the Water Temperature Sensor <--> Pin 4 of the TPS <--> Pin1 of the Sub-TPS CHECKED

70
71 <--> Pin 1 of the O2 Sensor CHECKED
80

4 PIN IGNITER CONNECTOR
1 <--> Pin 12 of Plug F of Aristo plug <--> ( Pin 19 of the Data Link Connector <--> ( SC3 IK1-8 , SC4 IK1-8 , MK4 ))
2 <--> Pin 6 of Plug F of Aristo plug <--> Pin 1 of the Noise Filter <--> ( SC3 IJ1-7 , SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )
3 <--> Pin 58 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
4 <--> Ground Connector on the Front Side of Intake Manifold <--> Pin 2 of the Noise filter Connector CHECKED

12 PIN IGNITER CONNECTOR
1 <--> Pin 57 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
2 <--> Pin 56 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
3 <--> Pin 55 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
4 <--> Pin 2 of the Ignition Coil Connector 3 CHECKED
5 <--> Pin 2 of the Ignition Coil Connector 2 CHECKED
6 <--> Pin 2 of the Ignition Coil Connector 1 CHECKED
7 <--> Pin 52 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
8 <--> Pin 53 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
9 <--> Pin 54 of the 80 pin ECU connector CHECKED
10 <--> Pin 2 of the Ignition Coil Connector 4 CHECKED
11 <--> Pin 2 of the Ignition Coil Connector 5 CHECKED
12 <--> Pin 2 of the Ignition Coil Connector 6 CHECKED

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
1 <--> Pin 7 of the 80 pin ECU Connector CHECKED
2 <--> Pin 27 of the 80 pin ECU Connector CHECKED

IGNITION COIL 1
1 <--> Pin 1 of the Noise Filter <--> Pin 2 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector <--> Pin 1 of Ignition Coil 2,3,4,5,6 <-->( SC3 IJ1-7 , SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )
2 <--> Pin 6 of the 12 Pin Igniter Connector CHECKED

IGNITION COIL 2
1 <--> Pin 1 of the Noise Filter <--> Pin 2 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector <--> Pin 1 of Ignition Coil 1,3,4,5,6 <-->( SC3 IJ1-7 , SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )
2 <--> Pin 5 of the 12 Pin Igniter Connector CHECKED

IGNITION COIL 3
1 <--> Pin 1 of the Noise Filter <--> Pin 2 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector <--> Pin 1 of Ignition Coil 1,2,4,5,6 <-->( SC3 IJ1-7 , SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )
2 <--> Pin 4 of the 12 Pin Igniter Connector CHECKED

IGNITION COIL 4
1 <--> Pin 1 of the Noise Filter <--> Pin 2 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector <--> Pin 1 of Ignition Coil 1,2,3,5,6 <-->( SC3 IJ1-7 , SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )
2 <--> Pin 10 of the 12 Pin Igniter Connector CHECKED

IGNITION COIL 5
1 <--> Pin 1 of the Noise Filter <--> Pin 2 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector <--> Pin 1 of Ignition Coil 1,2,3,4,6 <-->( SC3 IJ1-7 , SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )
2 <--> Pin 11 of the 12 Pin Igniter Connector CHECKED

IGNITION COIL 6
1 <--> Pin 1 of the Noise Filter <--> Pin 2 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector <--> Pin 1 of Ignition Coil 1,2,3,4,5 <-->( SC3 IJ1-7 , SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )
2 <--> Pin 12 of the 12 Pin Igniter Connector CHECKED

INJECTOR NO. 1
1 <--> Pin 20 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
2 <--> (should go to (SC3 IJ1-7 or IJ1-3 & short 3 & short 5 , SC40 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-9))

NOISE FILTER
1 <--> Pin 2 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector <--> ( SC3 IJ1-7, SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )
2 <--> Ground Connector on the Front Side of Intake Manifold <--> Pin 4 of the 4 pin Igniter Connector CHECKED


Throttle Position Sensor
1 <--> Pin 41 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
2 <--> Pin 43 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
3 <--> Pin 64 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
4 <--> Pin 65 of the 80 pin ECU Connector

WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR
1 <--> Pin 65 of the 80 pin ECU Connector CHECKED
2 <--> Pin 44 of the 80 pin ECU Connector CHECKED

WATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE SENDER
1 <--> Pin 9 of Plug F of the Big Gray Aristo Plug (should go to SC3 IK1-9 , SC4 IK1-9 & Short-3 , MK4 II1-19 )

The following plugs are necessary only if you are going stock 2jzgte setup

OXYGEN SENSOR (O2)
1 <--> Pin 71 of the 80 pin ECU Connector CHECKED
2 <--> Pin 3 of Plug E of Aristo Plug <-> (Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector <--> ( SC3 IJ1-12 & EB2-1 & Short-4 , SC4 IJ1-12 & EB2-3 , MK4 EA3-3 ))
3 <--> Pin 48 of the 80 pin ECU Connector CHECKED

VSV1 ( Air Intake Control Valve )
1 <--> Pin 2 of the O2 Sensor <--> Pin 1 of the VSV3 <-> (Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector <--> ( SC3 IJ1-12 & EB2-1 & Short-4 , SC4 IJ1-12 & EB2-3 , MK4 EA3-3 ))
2 <--> Pin 40 of the 80 pin ECU Connector CHECKED

VSV2 ( Exhaust Control Valve )
1 <--> Pin 1 of VSV1 , VSV3 , VSVPMC <--> Pin 2 of the O2 Sensor <--> Pin 1 of the VSV3 <-> (Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector <--> ( SC3 IJ1-12 & EB2-1 & Short-4 , SC4 IJ1-12 & EB2-3 , MK4 EA3-3 ))
2 <--> Pin 39 of the 80 pin ECU Connector CHECKED

VSV3( Exhaust Bypass Valve )
1 <--> Pin 2 of the O2 Sensor <-->Pin 1 of the VSV1 <-> (Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector <--> ( SC3 IJ1-12 & EB2-1 & Short-4 , SC4 IJ1-12 & EB2-3 , MK4 EA3-3 ))
2 <--> Pin 38 of the 80 pin ECU Connector CHECKED

VSVPMC ( Waste Gate Valve )
1 <--> Pin 1 of VSV1 , VSV2 , VSV3 <--> Pin 2 of the O2 Sensor <--> Pin 1 of the VSV3 <-> (Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector <--> ( SC3 IJ1-12 & EB2-1 & Short-4 , SC4 IJ1-12 & EB2-3 , MK4 EA3-3 ))
2 <--> Pin 60 of the 80 pin ECU Connector CHECKED


The following plugs maybe kept or deleted depending on your seup

2) Sub-Throttle Position Sensor
1 <--> Pin 65 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
2 <--> Pin 63 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
3 <--> Pin 42 of the 80 pin ECU Connector
4 <--> Pin 41 of the 80 pin ECU Connector

The following plugs are usually deleted

Throttle Motor Valve
1 <--> Pin 8 of Plug C of Big Gray Aristo Plug
2 <--> Pin 11 of Plug C of Big Gray Aristo Plug
3 <--> Pin 7 of Plug C of Big Gray Aristo Plug
4 <--> Pin 4 of Plug C of Big Gray Aristo Plug
5 <--> Pin 6 of Plug C of Big Gray Aristo Plug
6 <--> Pin 3 of Plug C of Big Gray Aristo Plug

The following plug definitely will be deleted but its wires go to different body plugs or 40 pin ECU Connector or can be used for future needs

BIG GRAY ARISTO PLUG

PLUG C
3 <--> Extra Wire for future use CHECKED
4 <--> Extra Wire for future use CHECKED
6 <--> Extra Wire for future use CHECKED
7 <--> Extra Wire for future use CHECKED
8 <--> Extra Wire for future use CHECKED
11 <--> Extra Wire for future use CHECKED
13 <--> Extra Wire for future use CHECKED

PLUG D
6 <--> Pin 63 of the 80 pin ECU Connector (Is still needed ????? remains to be seen during the merge process)
9 <--> Extra Wire for future use CHECKED

PLUG E
3 <--> Pin 2 of Oxygen Sensor <--> (Pin 12 of the Data Link Connector <--> ( SC3 IJ1-12 & EB2-1 & Short-4 , SC4 IJ1-12 & EB2-3 , MK4 EA3-3 ))

PLUG F
6 <--> Pin 1 of the Noise Filter <--> ( SC3 IJ1-7 , SC4 EB2-2 , MK4 IJ1-1 or IJ1-9 )
9 <--> Pin 1 of the Water Temperature Gauge Sender <--> ( SC3 IK1-9 , SC4 IK1-9 & Short-3 , MK4 II1-19 )
12 <--> ( Pin 19 of the Data Link Connector & to ( SC3 IK1-8 , SC4 IK1-8 , MK4 ))

NOLAGG

So basically all wires are getting extended closer to the ecu man plugs correct and not by the actual connectors themself?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Q) What if I am using an AEM v2 or AEM Infinity or Haltech or a ProEFI ecu , is the wiring the same ?

IF you are using the AEM v2 ecu that was meant specifically for a 2jzgte engine , then you have nothing to do with your finished 2jzgte harness . They are plug and play meaning , AEM designed the ecu around the stock 2jzgte pin configuration.

For ProEFI , no . They sell a patch harness that connects to your finished 2jzgte harness and to their ECU. If you want to directly wire your 2jzgte harness into the proEFI ECU , then you have to use their ECU connectors at the end of your 2jzgte harness wiring. IT is not hard to do. All you need is the pin configuration of the proEFI ECU which they provide and your connectorss / pins . It's the same process we have been doing. You just have to know which pin should go to what pin. Well, incidentally Richard , 8052jz had just asked me that very question yesterday... a 2jzgte harness with proEFI.

Same thing with Haltech, they have a patch harness.

Personally , this is what I will do . Just my personal opinion and am sure some won't agree with me. Hey , who am I to argue with the Pros after all ? Am just a diy dude like most people on this forum. What I did on one of my SC with proEFI was create my own patch harness that goes between my ProEFI and my stock 2jzgte harness so I save .I didn't have to buy the more than $500 patch harness that was sold on top of the proEFI ECU. I didn't feel like hard wiring the proEFI connectors into the end of my 2jzgte harness also . WHY you might ask.

This is my rationale :

a) What if one day my proEFI ecu konks out so I need to send it out for repair but I badly want to use my car and I know I have a tune on my Haltech or AEM ecu for the same car ... then I can't use those ecu because I have hard wired my 2jzgte harness with proEFI .

b) Or one day , I simply decided to use another ECU , maybe a new and better ECU that is now available. We all know something always comes out on this electronics gadgets. Before the proEFI hit the market , AEM received all praises , then something came out ... the proEFI .... and the AEM ecu became inferior to some ...now even a lot of tuners will swear by the proEFI being a lot better than the AEM . What if something else comes out better . Then I have to get my 2jzgte harness that is hard wired to proEFI modified ? (Didn't you just spend tons of money getting those proEFI connectors in there that is if you previously had the stock connectors ?) Wouldn't that be another big expense ? Harness Modifications can costs tons of money.

c) Or let's say for whatever reason you need to part out your car. We all said the same thing , no way I will let go / sell or even part out my car. But how many high horsepower cars we have seen parted out ? Come to think of it they have more reasons not to let go or part out the car. But things happen . You do what you got to do. Let's say you are parting it out and selling your parts. You will have less audience buying that harness I will assure you cause there would be not so many having an SC with proEFI.

These are some of the reasons why for me , I prefer not to hard wire the 2jzgte harness to a particular ECU. I will rather make my own patch harness if I don't want to spend that much buying the patch harnesses of some ECUs that is if it is cheaper to make one.


Q) So basically all wires are getting extended closer to the ecu connector and not near the actual connectors ?

Yes sir ! Remember , the connectors on the 2jzgte harness are already laid out correctly based on where the engine components are. One reason I used the 2jzgte Aristo harness as my base . All the connectors for the actual engine you are using are already there correctly laid out for you. You are doing the extending just because you want the ECU connectors and body plugs to get into the passenger footwell... remember it is short just because Japanese cars are right hand driven.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Is there anything in particular that is different when extending shielded wires?

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

Amazing information so far. very easy to follow. thank you so much. makes me want to build a custom harness myself now as a back up or for fun

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

also where can these shielded wires be purchased? and what gauge are they?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Q)Is there anything in particular that is different when extending shielded wires?

Not really. Just be mindful of the size / gauge .

Q) Amazing information so far. very easy to follow. thank you so much. makes me want to build a custom harness myself now as a back up or for fun . Also where can these shielded wires be purchased? and what gauge are they?

Thank you buddy !

Wires can be bought at Radio Shack. This I suggest , in my opinion , it will be cheaper to buy a 2jzge / 1uzfe harness from the junkyard. Choose a good harness with good connectors. You will have extra connectors if you happened to buy a harness in good shape. You have the wires you need for extension both shielded and un-shielded . And since they are Lexus / Toyota harness , the wire gauges will be almost same.

Shielded wire gauges are not all of the same sizes. Some shielded wires have only one wire at the middle . Some will have two and so on .. so beware of that.

So for me .. junkyard is your best place . And you know how expensive things can be on these hardware stores at times. If you get a good harness from junkyard then you can have extra connectors you can use to replace broken connectors. Some connectors I will tell you can be pricey.. like Ignition Coil plugs and their pins..

Q) If connectors with their pins are expensive and I have a lot to replace , why don't I just buy a new harness then for $1000 or get a good one from the forums ?

Knowing how to make a harness doesn't necessarily mean you should make a harness when you need one . If you can get one for a very good price and suits your purpose , then by all means buy one.

One reason why you want to learn how to make one is , if you have a special setup with a lot of non stock components or parts . Then you can be very flexible in you harness when you know how to do it. Buying one ,you are stucked with how it had already been done. But if you know how to do it , you can modify what you bought to suit your needs and don't have to spend asking someone to modify it for you.