2jzGTE SCs - The Siblings of my Supra MKIV Toys
01-30-14, 05:31 AM
#2161
Non VVTi 2jzgte Lexus SC Engine Harness Build - Post # 54
On the process of elimination , taking out wires from plugs you don't need , if there is a wire that is T'ed ..one wire going to a body plug and the other to the 80 pin connected .. just cut the T'ed wire so you can take out that wire and its plug ... remember I asked you to leave those wires for now that has connections from the 80 pin connector to one of the body plug
sample of those wires
Now after going through the 2jzge engine pin configuration reference chart and going through the left over plugs I mentioned in the previous post , pulling all the unnecessary wires. I am left with this
Basically all the plugs that I don't need are gone .. what is left (except for 3 or 4 which I know I don't need but whose wire goes to the body plugs like gauge temp sender , AC plug so I kept them for the moment ) is what I need to be merged with my Aristo 2jzgte harness .
Observe what is left on the SC300 80 pin harness.. almost nothing , what is left are those wires that have Ts to the body plugs. I want to see later if they are even needed during the merging process if not , just take them out. There was only really one wire left that went all the way to one of the big plugs in front of the fuse box which is EB2 .
This is what I got out from doing the process
These are basically what I need to merge with my Aristo 2jzgte harness... left over from the elimination process
Same plugs I posted on the previous question and answer post... right ? So the process of elimination was effective after all but really tedious to be honest. Never did it before , even on my first time since I knew how to read diagrams and was kinda familiar with all the plugs of the 2jzgte , 2jzge and 1uzfe engines.
But once you have experience working with all different SC300 /. SC400 harnesses , am pretty sure you know the plugs you need to extract and merge . Again this was just to help those who doesn't have the slightest idea of which plug to get from the SC300 harness.
On the process of elimination , taking out wires from plugs you don't need , if there is a wire that is T'ed ..one wire going to a body plug and the other to the 80 pin connected .. just cut the T'ed wire so you can take out that wire and its plug ... remember I asked you to leave those wires for now that has connections from the 80 pin connector to one of the body plug
sample of those wires
Now after going through the 2jzge engine pin configuration reference chart and going through the left over plugs I mentioned in the previous post , pulling all the unnecessary wires. I am left with this
Basically all the plugs that I don't need are gone .. what is left (except for 3 or 4 which I know I don't need but whose wire goes to the body plugs like gauge temp sender , AC plug so I kept them for the moment ) is what I need to be merged with my Aristo 2jzgte harness .
Observe what is left on the SC300 80 pin harness.. almost nothing , what is left are those wires that have Ts to the body plugs. I want to see later if they are even needed during the merging process if not , just take them out. There was only really one wire left that went all the way to one of the big plugs in front of the fuse box which is EB2 .
This is what I got out from doing the process
These are basically what I need to merge with my Aristo 2jzgte harness... left over from the elimination process
Same plugs I posted on the previous question and answer post... right ? So the process of elimination was effective after all but really tedious to be honest. Never did it before , even on my first time since I knew how to read diagrams and was kinda familiar with all the plugs of the 2jzgte , 2jzge and 1uzfe engines.
But once you have experience working with all different SC300 /. SC400 harnesses , am pretty sure you know the plugs you need to extract and merge . Again this was just to help those who doesn't have the slightest idea of which plug to get from the SC300 harness.
Last edited by gerrb; 02-01-14 at 06:32 AM.
01-30-14, 05:32 AM
#2162
So to answer the question ? Up to which part of the SC300 harness , where we are taking out the 40 pin , body plugs and other connectors be cut ?
Before I answer that .. let me go one more step here for those who went through the elimination process..
I told you a minute ago that 3 or 4 plugs that I don't need I haven't taken out just because their wires go either to the body plug or the 40 pin connector ...
Those on the left of the picture
close-up picture
Pull them out and roll them going nearer the body plugs ..like pictured below.. that is still a lot of wires you have isolated. Why haven't I cut them or remove them in the previous process ? Cause it will be easier for me to determine later where those wires should go to my 2jzgte harness cause they still have the plug. Like gauge sensor wire, I look for the wire at the 2jzgte harness which is for gauge sensor wire and cut one , connect the other.. saves me time tracing wires. I suggest cut those wires at a portion of the harness that do not go inside the firewall ...why ? just trying to minimize extended / soldered points going through the firewall. why ? when you insert those connector inside that firewall hole .. you pull and push...possibility of disconnection of soldered points.... less soldered points going in that area , less possibility of problems arising from pulling and pushing that harness....if you get soldered points disconnected and is behind that A/C blower box
.. you have no choice but pull out that harness out of the firewall hole again .
Now I can answer that question , where do I cut the left over wires now ..my answer is NONE..You are not cutting anything cause the left over wires are wires that go to the actual plugs we are merging with your 2jzgte harness...
those wires go to these plugs so you are not cutting anything.. they have to be merged to your 2jzgte harness
Before I answer that .. let me go one more step here for those who went through the elimination process..
I told you a minute ago that 3 or 4 plugs that I don't need I haven't taken out just because their wires go either to the body plug or the 40 pin connector ...
Those on the left of the picture
close-up picture
Pull them out and roll them going nearer the body plugs ..like pictured below.. that is still a lot of wires you have isolated. Why haven't I cut them or remove them in the previous process ? Cause it will be easier for me to determine later where those wires should go to my 2jzgte harness cause they still have the plug. Like gauge sensor wire, I look for the wire at the 2jzgte harness which is for gauge sensor wire and cut one , connect the other.. saves me time tracing wires. I suggest cut those wires at a portion of the harness that do not go inside the firewall ...why ? just trying to minimize extended / soldered points going through the firewall. why ? when you insert those connector inside that firewall hole .. you pull and push...possibility of disconnection of soldered points.... less soldered points going in that area , less possibility of problems arising from pulling and pushing that harness....if you get soldered points disconnected and is behind that A/C blower box
.. you have no choice but pull out that harness out of the firewall hole again . 
Now I can answer that question , where do I cut the left over wires now ..my answer is NONE..You are not cutting anything cause the left over wires are wires that go to the actual plugs we are merging with your 2jzgte harness...
those wires go to these plugs so you are not cutting anything.. they have to be merged to your 2jzgte harness
Last edited by gerrb; 02-01-14 at 06:33 AM.
01-30-14, 05:33 AM
#2163
Let's go back to the Aristo 2jzgte harness we were working on ..
There was a point in time that you had to take out all the remaining covers / wraps on that harness especially when you were working on the part where the wirings / plugs of the Auto Transmission were .There was no escaping it . Either you were cleaning up the wires / plugs for those maintaining the auto transmission or removing some and keeping some wires for future use for those going manual transmission OR totallly removing those wires / plugs for those going manual transmission and wouldn't like to keep any extra wires there.
I suggest you do . It won't do any harm even if you don't need them now. Just wrap them well . At least when you need some wires in the future , you already have them. Going into the boosted game is like acquiring a desease. It gets worse and worse. You are never satisfied. Having room for improvement , like extra wires for gauges / flex fuel sensor and others , would always be a plus.
Without those remaining covers / wrap ... it would have looked like this before the auto transmission plug / wires removal.
You see, that is the reason , every part we have worked on so far or finished .... I try to wrap it up and keep it clean THOUGH NOT FINALIZED cause we will merge some wires / plug like power steering , 2 big plugs (EB1 / EB2 ) in-front of fuse box and for SC300 the wires / plug for the alternator and horn.
Imagine every wire of every plug in that harness being exposed , you got the possibility of getting messy and confused.
There was a point in time that you had to take out all the remaining covers / wraps on that harness especially when you were working on the part where the wirings / plugs of the Auto Transmission were .There was no escaping it . Either you were cleaning up the wires / plugs for those maintaining the auto transmission or removing some and keeping some wires for future use for those going manual transmission OR totallly removing those wires / plugs for those going manual transmission and wouldn't like to keep any extra wires there.
I suggest you do . It won't do any harm even if you don't need them now. Just wrap them well . At least when you need some wires in the future , you already have them. Going into the boosted game is like acquiring a desease. It gets worse and worse. You are never satisfied. Having room for improvement , like extra wires for gauges / flex fuel sensor and others , would always be a plus.
Without those remaining covers / wrap ... it would have looked like this before the auto transmission plug / wires removal.
You see, that is the reason , every part we have worked on so far or finished .... I try to wrap it up and keep it clean THOUGH NOT FINALIZED cause we will merge some wires / plug like power steering , 2 big plugs (EB1 / EB2 ) in-front of fuse box and for SC300 the wires / plug for the alternator and horn.
Imagine every wire of every plug in that harness being exposed , you got the possibility of getting messy and confused.
Last edited by gerrb; 02-01-14 at 06:46 AM.
01-30-14, 05:34 AM
#2164
This is a classic example why it is nice to have many extra wires when you do your harness.
Decided to give my buddy Aaron the harness on this build thread I was doing for demo. It was suppose to be for my 6speed Stroker Red Mamba 2 but his car will be running before I have even collected all my parts. I am being nice to him since now he hates me .. After seeing the Red Mamba 2 interior which used to be his car , he can't believe how good the car looks now with its pristine black interior , 11 inch wide rims and 315 tires .. he told me.. .."I hate you , this doesn't even look like the same car !" , lmaol ! Aaron - I can swap that 1 out of 120 black on black 97 with you again .. .. lol .. hell no
! The older ones looks more sleeper to me . The only reason why I have SCs.
So , he came to me with all the gauges and sensors he had so far and said , I want to have an Oil Pressure , Fuel Pressure ... and what not . Some of the gauges, I told him to bring them back home since their wires didn't need incorporating into the harness like he had two serial gauges . Now you see why I always advised people working on their harness ... include a lot of extra wires. They will be handy in the future.
If you didn't have wires incorporated in your harness , those wires let's say for your fluid sensors will be laid out all over the place. Where as if I had some extra wires on my harness , I can just cut those plugs and install them in the harness.
Many pressure sensors will not come with wires but the plug you will need will be there and you can just connect into the extra wires you have in your harness ( that is if you have them
) .
Some gauges just like the Wideband , just have open ended wires. Something like this without any plug , since he has an AEM v2 and he has many other stuff he wants to control with the ECU like relays , I would personnaly use a fields patch harness so as not to hack the wires near the ECU connectors. That way , wiring on that footwell is clean.
He was gonna use some EV14 injectors so I replaced the stock denso plugs with his. On the picture below , I have replaced the #2 & #3 plugs already ... good time to install all your aftermarket plugs while you are working on your harness... easier !
Decided to give my buddy Aaron the harness on this build thread I was doing for demo. It was suppose to be for my 6speed Stroker Red Mamba 2 but his car will be running before I have even collected all my parts. I am being nice to him since now he hates me .. After seeing the Red Mamba 2 interior which used to be his car , he can't believe how good the car looks now with its pristine black interior , 11 inch wide rims and 315 tires .. he told me.. .."I hate you , this doesn't even look like the same car !" , lmaol ! Aaron - I can swap that 1 out of 120 black on black 97 with you again .. .. lol .. hell no
! The older ones looks more sleeper to me . The only reason why I have SCs. So , he came to me with all the gauges and sensors he had so far and said , I want to have an Oil Pressure , Fuel Pressure ... and what not . Some of the gauges, I told him to bring them back home since their wires didn't need incorporating into the harness like he had two serial gauges . Now you see why I always advised people working on their harness ... include a lot of extra wires. They will be handy in the future.
If you didn't have wires incorporated in your harness , those wires let's say for your fluid sensors will be laid out all over the place. Where as if I had some extra wires on my harness , I can just cut those plugs and install them in the harness.
Many pressure sensors will not come with wires but the plug you will need will be there and you can just connect into the extra wires you have in your harness ( that is if you have them
) .
Some gauges just like the Wideband , just have open ended wires. Something like this without any plug , since he has an AEM v2 and he has many other stuff he wants to control with the ECU like relays , I would personnaly use a fields patch harness so as not to hack the wires near the ECU connectors. That way , wiring on that footwell is clean.
He was gonna use some EV14 injectors so I replaced the stock denso plugs with his. On the picture below , I have replaced the #2 & #3 plugs already ... good time to install all your aftermarket plugs while you are working on your harness... easier !
Last edited by gerrb; 02-01-14 at 06:47 AM.
01-30-14, 05:35 AM
#2165
Q) So how long does it take to make one 2jzgte harness assuming you have all the materials like plug , electrical tape, flex hose ..etc ? Cause I got one done and I was told 6 -8 weeks and if I pay the extra amount they charge , it will be facilitated in 2 weeks ? It surely be nice to say that I did my own harness even if I am not an automotive mechanic or electrician .
Look , I don't want to be in trouble here with those who do the harness for a living . Every person or company has his own way of doing things . They have their own protocols on how they do things. So it will depend on each individual , company , skill sets of employees , how much workload they have .. and so on. So there is no cut and dry time frame ..it all depends on the company and individual .
You yourself should be able to make your own estimate based on your skills set . Now that you have all the pin configurations all laid out to you , you don't have to go through diagrams tracing circuits ..maybe at the end for quality control you can. How long does it take you to cut and make a good solder ? How long does it take you to do the other stuff like shrink wrap , how long does it take to check connectivity and for how many wires / pins are these..... and so on.
My personal opinion , if one is good on all of these , all materials available at hand and with all the pin configurations laid out in front of me , I personally don't see any reason why I cannot do a 2jzgte harness in two full days . For the experts , maybe a day .. I said maybe. The most laborious part I told you before was the cutting and soldering .. I hate that to be honest with you. Then quality control ...I won't fully wrap a harness till I know I have gone through every pin of every plug again checking their connectivity , that's another day for me. The secret for me is having the right tools . It facilitates and makes your work a lot easier .
So it all depends on the person doing the work .
With regards you being able to do the work , it all depends on what you are willing to do even if what you are doing is not something related to your profession (how you make your living). This is the way I view it , a heart surgeon by profession is expected to be doing surgeries on people's heart and are expected to be good with it ... but if you are not a heart surgeon and yet you are able to do a heart surgery and you save the person's life , that is a totally different story . That is an accomplishment that you can be proud of about yourself and am sure you can brag about. . For the heart surgeon , even if he did a surgery and did the same thing , saved one's life... there is nothing especial about it because that was expected of him. It is his profession.
Look , I don't want to be in trouble here with those who do the harness for a living . Every person or company has his own way of doing things . They have their own protocols on how they do things. So it will depend on each individual , company , skill sets of employees , how much workload they have .. and so on. So there is no cut and dry time frame ..it all depends on the company and individual .
You yourself should be able to make your own estimate based on your skills set . Now that you have all the pin configurations all laid out to you , you don't have to go through diagrams tracing circuits ..maybe at the end for quality control you can. How long does it take you to cut and make a good solder ? How long does it take you to do the other stuff like shrink wrap , how long does it take to check connectivity and for how many wires / pins are these..... and so on.
My personal opinion , if one is good on all of these , all materials available at hand and with all the pin configurations laid out in front of me , I personally don't see any reason why I cannot do a 2jzgte harness in two full days . For the experts , maybe a day .. I said maybe. The most laborious part I told you before was the cutting and soldering .. I hate that to be honest with you. Then quality control ...I won't fully wrap a harness till I know I have gone through every pin of every plug again checking their connectivity , that's another day for me. The secret for me is having the right tools . It facilitates and makes your work a lot easier .
So it all depends on the person doing the work .
With regards you being able to do the work , it all depends on what you are willing to do even if what you are doing is not something related to your profession (how you make your living). This is the way I view it , a heart surgeon by profession is expected to be doing surgeries on people's heart and are expected to be good with it ... but if you are not a heart surgeon and yet you are able to do a heart surgery and you save the person's life , that is a totally different story . That is an accomplishment that you can be proud of about yourself and am sure you can brag about. . For the heart surgeon , even if he did a surgery and did the same thing , saved one's life... there is nothing especial about it because that was expected of him. It is his profession.
Last edited by gerrb; 02-01-14 at 06:47 AM.
01-30-14, 05:35 AM
#2166
Someone asked about wrapping the corrugated flex hose with electrical tape. As I mentioned , I usually wrap the end parts but not the whole cause I still want the wires going to the plugs really flexible. Just like here pictured below , on this area I am really done ... installed the aftermarket injector plugs of Aaron and decided to wrap just to show how I do it. Usually I do all the final wrapping after my quality control part ..that is checking for the last time all my connectivities. Wrapping is all about personal preference ..how you want to make your harness presentable or professionally looking especially if you do it for a living.
Last edited by gerrb; 02-01-14 at 06:47 AM.
01-30-14, 05:36 AM
#2167
One thing I wanted to remind you , during the process of extending and removing wires from the Big Gray Aristo Gray plug , do not forget to label them so you know what they are for or where they are going. Remember that big gray aristo plug will have to go. All its wires will either be repinned to the 40 pin connector or the body plugs or permanently removed so make sure you know which is which ..
when I was removing them I label them in such a way I know where they are going or what they are for.
when I was removing them I label them in such a way I know where they are going or what they are for.
Last edited by gerrb; 02-01-14 at 07:52 AM.
01-30-14, 07:09 AM
#2168
Awesome thread. I'm actually building a harness to have a cannon plug at the firewall. Since I was going this far I didn't feel like keeping a jz harness intact would really make a difference for me. My harness is pretty limited since I put my harness up for sale but no bites since it's wasn't a gte harness. I will be removing so much stuff to it to get the slim look that if you weren't running a standalone you wouldn't be able to use it.
02-01-14, 06:51 AM
#2169
Awesome thread. I'm actually building a harness to have a cannon plug at the firewall. Since I was going this far I didn't feel like keeping a jz harness intact would really make a difference for me. My harness is pretty limited since I put my harness up for sale but no bites since it's wasn't a gte harness. I will be removing so much stuff to it to get the slim look that if you weren't running a standalone you wouldn't be able to use it.
Good Luck . You will love that Pro-EFI . A lot of things to learn though compared to AEM v2 and Haltech.
For everyone following the 2jzgte Harness build thread .. updates will be on this thread from now on https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...made-easy.html
Last edited by gerrb; 02-04-14 at 06:32 AM.
02-04-14, 06:36 AM
#2170
I never thought this timing belt cover will ever arrive. Finally arrived before I left town. Quality is great. You see it here beside my full coil transparent cover which have been long discontinued. I just kept one so if ever I wanted a full transparent coil cover , I can always install it. We always change our mind... part of the game I guess.
Last edited by gerrb; 02-05-14 at 01:13 PM.
02-05-14, 01:17 PM
#2171
Took new pictures of the engine bay of Red Mamba 1 with the new transparent cam gear covers.. I think I will sell my full transparent coil cover. I prefer this better . My Red Mamba 2 project will not need any bling bling anyway. It will all be go fast stuff...
02-06-14, 07:12 AM
#2172
I was trying to sell these goodies for the fuel system in the past month but to no avail. I guess no one wants big as? injectors and pump. It is not that they are not good. I just wanted to try something else. I have exactly the same fuel system (injectors and pump) on my Red Mamba 1 SC and my Black Mamba MKIV and can be used with any fuel. Even if they are huge , they idle so good. You will never be wanting of any fuel upgrade. They can easily support 1500rwhp on E85.
I guess I just have to use them on my Red Mamba 2 SC stroker project.
Siemens Deka 2433cc injectors . One of this is almost the equivalent of 6 of the Aristo 2jzgte 440cc injectors. You probably can run the Honda Civic with one of this...lmaol
Weldon 2345a pump , Weldon regulator , Weldon pre & post filters , Weldon controller and the potentiometer , switch
I guess I just have to use them on my Red Mamba 2 SC stroker project.
Siemens Deka 2433cc injectors . One of this is almost the equivalent of 6 of the Aristo 2jzgte 440cc injectors. You probably can run the Honda Civic with one of this...lmaol
Weldon 2345a pump , Weldon regulator , Weldon pre & post filters , Weldon controller and the potentiometer , switch
02-06-14, 08:46 AM
#2173
I just tried turning my wheels , steering wheel is locked and I can't even turn the key on the Red Mamba 2 . I tried turning the steering wheel on both direction while trying to turn key and that freaking key won't budge to turn.. Anybody knows the solution ?
02-06-14, 09:43 AM
#2175
No go sir ! GGGGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR !!!! The steering wheel is locked and key wont turn on cylinder. Usually you just turn that steering wheel hard to the left or right , that key should turn ... it won't . As though both steering wheel and key are locked in place.