gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Got the light support all back together. Was thinking of painting the top of my intercooler black but decided against it so I can easily spot any oil drops from my relocated oil filters. Left my relays for the nitrous inter-cooler spray and fans' low/high mode where they are at the moment till I find a better place. They are hidden anyway.







This is a better picture to show where my fusebox is at the moment. It has to be moved to the trunk cause it is obstructing the airflow for my engine oil and power steering oil coolers.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Ain't perfect yet but at least body lines on hood and bumper are better , compared to what I had before , it was an inch difference. Now I can make small adjustments on the hood hinges.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I have managed to remove all the wiring and what not on the engine bay of Red Mamba 2. Now I have to decide whether I will shave it or just fill in the holes that I don't need and give it a good paint job. I want to hide most if not all the wiring on this build.

PoGikoSc4

iTrader: (17)

Damn! RM1 always looks mean even w/o hood and front bumper. Still my Idol Gerry

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Man , when you have so much time at your disposal , you get a lot of crazy ideas. Now , I am thinking of going through every inch of the Red Mamba 2 ... go through it with a fine tooth comb , remove what I don't need and move the drive train from Red Mamba 1 to this car . You might say I am crazy but let me tell you why.

Red Mamba 2 has a lot better black interior now. You should see the interior of this car in person. It is really nice. It has already aftermarket springs and shocks perfect height for what I want. I cannot go lower due to my 4" exhaust with the HKS dragger II muffler. It has the 18x11 wheels with 315 wide Toyo R888 tires good enough to handle 650rwhp as a dailly warrior ... could burst to 800rwhp with nitrous and would still have traction. I would keep this car on this power level... just perfect as a street car without being laggy. The tire setup is good enough for that power. The exterior paint is in better shape than Red Mamba 1 so it doesn't need to be painted. I can go through it thoroughly while there is no engine...like I would move the fuse box to the trunk , remove every wire that is not needed... paint and spray the engine bay, under carriage and basically everything that needs to be painted.

Then once I have transferred the drivetrain of the Red Mamba 1 to Red Mamba 2, it would be RM1 that I will use for my dyno queen project. Between the two , RM1 needs more work in terms of cosmetics so that can be done while collecting my parts and getting the stroker engine built. It will take a while cause I am trying to collect parts based on good deals I see on the forums. I hate to blow the cash (which I don't have anyway ) just like that to get the stroker parts quick. Patience is the secret here. It is not like I need the car so I have all the time to wait for good deals to come like never have I seen a 2jzgte head sold shipped for $250 but they happen , just have to wait patiently.

I just cannot move the 18x11 315 tires to Red Mamba 1 . Remember I have pulled the fenders so much that these 315 tires look funny on it. I tried it the other day . The wheel well gap is so much that it needs at least 28" tires to fill up the wheel well gap. A set of 28x13.50x15 will be perfect for RM1. that saves me a lot of trouble for RM2 and save tons of money. The downside , just need to move drivetrain. Not that hard cause they are exactly the same car. Take out from one and install to the other. But before I do that , I might as well do all the cleaning up on the RM2 while engine is out... wire tuck , patching holes to make the engine bay look really clean.

I really like the way the Red Mamba 2 looks and stands at this point. With this plan, it saves me the trouble of replacing my wheel setup for both cars and save money.

Red Mamba 2 is just really pretty the way it is right now. If I use it as my dyno queen project, then I need to pull fenders extensively to fit 28x13.50x15 tires which means it will really need repainting. I would rather leave it the way it is right now and move the drivetrain. So I guess I am not selling my wheels and tires anymore from this car. I don't know...need to sleep over things.. maybe tomorrow I have another idea..lol. I need a drink. Let's go to Tilted Kilt this weekend, lmaol.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I have cleaned the Red Mamba 2 engine bay...I will start plugging all the holes and making smooth all those tach welded areas so it would look clean and smoother before painting...see how I can possibly hide most of the wires if not all when the engine is installed.

Freefallin

Wow super clean!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Gonna make a hole on this spot so I can hide and tuck my harness. I will try to cover every small hole and big openings on the engine bay.



just like what they did here except that side hole for the exhaust

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I think your reasoning is sound, RM2 is already more streetable and then you can take your time with both projects and make them just how you want it.

I think the harness will go through there nicely just make sure you figure out what is on the other side before you make a big hole through something important. luckily there is a small bolt hole there so you can stick something through and find it on the other side. I just realized they shaved the heater core pipes as well, but I like my heater too much to do that.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I don't think I would like to take out that heater / blower assembly either. It ain't gonna happen for me on that area. I can't give up heater and AC just to tuck the wire . Now I wonder where else would it go through . Time to do more research for me...

Inspecting my parts car , that area is directly behind that heater / blower assembly


here it is on the other parts car without that assembly anymore

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

looks like some of that stuff may be in the way but there could be enough space for just a harness to come through if you choose the spot just right.

geauxsimon

It's going to be nice, but you have a lot of work ahead of you mr.!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

True there is a 2-3" inches of space behind that blower assembly but it will be a pain installing and removing harness if the blower assembly / dashboard has to be removed too. I am not too sure if I will enjoy doing that. I will investigate for other areas where I can drill that hole. I am sure there is a way... a lot of wire tucked mkivs have been done.

Well, that will keep me busy... remember am retired , I got all the time. I am only 50.. hehehe.. I guess before I reach 60 it will be done .

How much did the wrinkle coating cost you?

geauxsimon

245 for all the wrinkle coating and the ceramic coating of the exhaust manifold not bad!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

damn good price.. may i ask where is this place ? There is a place in Cumming GA where they do all kinds of coating and also do the CRYOGENIC Processing. I was told to do the block / cylinders , crankshaft , pistons/rings/pins, rods , head & drive train parts camshaft included was less than $1k though I haven't really gotten an official quotation. I think it is worth the price to get the internals of the stroker motor be CRYO-ed so it can be pushed even further. I was wondering if it is the same place you went to since it is near you. Is it at Parker Industrial Park ?

I just need to do more research whether stroker forged parts like the crankshaft, rods and pistons would still benefit from being CRYO-ed.