2jzGTE SCs - The Siblings of my Supra MKIV Toys
#2221
#2222
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From: A Mile Ahead of You
Since we are heading to our place in the South later, I did play a bit yesterday after having aligned my light support. Went out the streets without lights and bumper.
I didn't know that it is not allowed . I met a patrol and when I looked at my rear view mirror I saw him do a U-turn and I said,.. shoot , I knew I wasn't speeding. He stopped me. Told me that I can't run around without lights. He was a young dude and then he said, "When I saw your tag GERRB , I knew I have seen this car on Clublexus, can I see your engine bay ? " I opened it up for him and started admiring it and started talking about his SC project . He told me that I cannot run around also with my Nitrous setup on the streets . The line on the bottle should be disconnected or I can be given a ticket too. He just told me , buddy you better go home and put those lights before somebody else stops you and give you a ticket and find a way that you can easily enable and disable your nitrous lines / setup. A patrol who gets to know that you have those can give you a ticket. GA do not allow cars with nitrous setup on the streets. He gave me his name and username here though told me for security reasons not to let it be known publicly. I am pretty sure he will be reading this post of mine since he regularly visits the site he said. Thanks to CL , met a new friend. He did his job of giving me a warning by letting me know what is not allowed on the public streets of GA and at the same time he was really nice.
Cleaned up Red Mamba 2 and without even applying wax , cleaned up well. I am still on the fence about making it my street car although it is all ready for that setup without any expense on my part. It has a good wheel (18x11 , 18x9.5) and tire (Toyo R88 315x30 , Toyo T1R 245x40) setup that can help put down the power for my 650-800rwhp street set-up. The usable power on the streets is usually from 500 to 700rwhp. Above that not unless you are in the boonies or the track , you won't use anyway. It has the best black interior I have seen so far. It has good aftermarket suspension that will enable my 4" down-mid pipe / HKS drager exhaust not to scrape the ground in every hump and dip on the road. It has a good paint job which I believe I can do another layer or two of clear coat myself to get it more shiny. All I need to do is get into the groove and do some work , moving all the drive train from Red Mamba 1. For now, I just hate the idea of breaking apart a good running car for which I have lodged around 8k miles in the past 8 months. Though the work should be easy since they are exactly the same car.... no fabrication and no extra work.. just uninstall from one car and install into the other. Most of all, if I do that , it will save me lots of work and money for my dyno queen SC project. I don't need to roll and pull fenders to fit 28x13.50x15 tires since I have done that already on the RM1. I will just have to buy a pair of Weld RT-S rear wheels and tires since my RM1 wheels have the same 5 spoke design as that of the Weld RT-S. I just have to get one car painted and get one set of suspension to accomodate the big as? 325x50x15 tires.
Last edited by gerrb; 02-21-14 at 09:14 AM.
#2223
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From: A Mile Ahead of You
Am trying to have a cleaner look for the Red Mamba II engine bay so am covering most of the holes and tach weld marks. Big holes got to be welded since you can't just apply bondo and smaller ones with thread inside just applied bondo. This will be a painstaking slow process. Not trying to make it all smooth .. just enough for it to be clean looking.
#2224
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From: A Mile Ahead of You
When you open the hood of our SC, the thing that is very visible would be the top of the wheel well and the strut tower. I don't understand why that strut tower was riddled with a lot of holes. It is those two areas of each side that I want really clean and smooth so the bay will look awesome and clean. This will be a lot of sanding ... . I remember one Titan Motorsports employee saying, just to get his engine bay cleaned up . partly shaved and painted, it cost him around $1500. Damn, that is the price of us getting our whole car painted. I guess doing it myself would help cut down on cost.
Last edited by gerrb; 02-24-14 at 04:46 PM.
#2227
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From: A Mile Ahead of You
was thinking of spraying the whole under carriage of the car with something like line x or similar as protection...then the whole interior of the car with secondskin spectrum for noise & vibration coating instead of mats
#2228
I feel like welding every hole, grinding it down and using a skim of filler would've made your life easier versus what you're doing now. No doubt what you're undertaking is some labor intensive work, though!
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From: A Mile Ahead of You
Seen this picture in a built on SF , though you still see the tach weld not even / smooth, it was already nice. I am filling up all those tach welded areas too so I don't see any round recessed areas and holes near the strut tower.
Last edited by gerrb; 02-25-14 at 08:35 AM.
#2232
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From: A Mile Ahead of You
This is also what he sprayed for Noise and Vibration dampening.. Secondskinaudio Spectrum . What I am looking for right now will be what to use for undercoating ... Isn't Line X for truck beds ?
#2234
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From: A Mile Ahead of You
JB (Duwerke) paid me a visit yesterday afternoon and finally saw Red Mamba I in person . Told him about the run in I had with a z06 corvette and a mustang playing on GA400 . This kind of experiences makes me love our sleeper SCs more and more...out of the blue , can wake up and give the newer cars a run for their money. Those cars had to follow me just to check with me what the hell I had under the hood. They never expected a raggedy looking 22 year old car accelerated past them especially when I hit that juice.
Last edited by gerrb; 02-26-14 at 06:20 AM.