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2jzGTE SCs - The Siblings of my Supra MKIV Toys

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Old 06-27-15, 07:56 AM
  #3046  
gerrb
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Today I am tearing apart the built engine and make sure that the CP Pistons have at least the upgraded .200" wall wrist pins. Otherwise I will replace them with the .230" wall wrist pins I have so they can easily withstand +1000rwhp . Will wrinkle paint black the compressor housing and high temp black coat the turbine housing.














In the afternoon , I will drop off the block of the other engine I am building to the machine shop so they can line hone it with my billet mains and balance the whole rotating assembly then I can start putting together this other engine. I hate open blocks being exposed for a long time . Moisture can start corroding stuff.


Last edited by gerrb; 06-27-15 at 09:45 AM.
Old 06-27-15, 05:21 PM
  #3047  
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Am glad I have decided to check the wrist pins of the CP pistons on this built engine I bought more than a year ago. Though I haven't taken out the oil pan and removed rods / pistons to inspect wrist pins , there are things I have already learned from this exercise.

1) They used ARP washers with the ARP head studs .. will replace them with stock washers .
2) The size of Pistons are 86.5mm or .20 over .
3) This engine was never ran from being built because the cylinder hone marks are still fresh so it is zero miles basically. Therefore, it will be better for me to use break in oil for the first 500 miles.
4) Since they only installed Crower 264 cams, they are still using the stock Toyota springs and retainers. I have an extra set of Crower springs and retainers which I will install so I can in the future install even bigger cams.

Took out all the accessories






The small ARP washers have been proven to be the cause of the head lifting at high boost and consequently overheating. Why ? Because they have a smaller clamping area . Observe the following pictures. You see the marks of the bigger stock washers . Since I will push this engine at 1000rwhp , those smaller washers won't work and will give me problems. I am really glad I have decided to open this engine.








Last edited by gerrb; 06-27-15 at 05:42 PM.
Old 06-27-15, 05:24 PM
  #3048  
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Head is out and will continue work tomorrow , removing oil pans and rods / pistons to inspect wrist pins.







Old 06-28-15, 07:02 AM
  #3049  
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Did work late last night . I wanted to see what wrist pins where on the engine so took out oil pans and one set of rods / pistons.

Crower Billet Steel I-Beam Rods which after talking to Crower , I have been told that they can easily make the 1000rwhp level.



Just like I said, I am glad , re-opened this built engine .. the CP pistons came with the stock wrist pins with .150" wall so they have to be upgraded for this engine to survive the 1000rwhp level .




Comparing it with my Carillo HD rods with carr bolts and CP Pistons with .230" wrist pins . Well , the big boys in the league always use the Carillo HD rods with carr bolts since they have been used in +1500rwhp 2jzgte engines, though very pricey .. $1700 for a set of 6




Last edited by gerrb; 06-29-15 at 05:27 AM.
Old 06-28-15, 05:12 PM
  #3050  
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I am done with the short block and head .

Got the wrist pins upgraded and every ARP bolt torqued to the right specs . There is no reason now why this short block couldn't handle 1000rwhp . As previously mentioned this built engine was never even ran before since all the honing marks on each cylinders are still fresh.






Head has upgraded springs now so I can actually install bigger cams aside from the 264 currently installed . When I got the engine, it was already ported too. Well, been told that this engine was built by a well known Supra / 2jzgte builder / motorshop .




Getting ready to mate the head with the short block . I only use OEM stock TT head gasket ... can't go wrong. On this picture you can see the 30 degree honing marks..


Last edited by gerrb; 06-29-15 at 05:23 AM.
Old 06-28-15, 10:31 PM
  #3051  
irondonkey
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working super fast as always. looking great so far.
Old 06-29-15, 07:49 AM
  #3052  
CatManD3W
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Nice work Gerry.......are you putting that setup in Old Man Tan?
Old 06-29-15, 08:20 AM
  #3053  
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Originally Posted by irondonkey
working super fast as always. looking great so far.
thanks Junan . Go lift that butt and work on that SC swap now !

going for a trip soon ... am doing as much as I can before that vacation


Originally Posted by CatManD3W
Nice work Gerry.......are you putting that setup in Old Man Tan?
Thanks Ryan. Let me know when to send that SARD stuff .

If I decide to keep the 1997 SC300 5 speed , yes this is going inside the Old Man's Tan SC since I want the better engine into the 1997 SC300 5 speed. IF the Old Man Tan is gonna be my last SC build (1997 5 speed bare shell sold ) , then this will be a reserve engine for all my 2jzgte toys and the better engine whose short block and whole rotating assembly I just dropped off the machine shop to be line honed for billet mains and balanced will go inside the Old Man Tan. I am aiming for at least 1200rwhp on that second engine. The parts I have for it have been proven in +1500rwhp 2jzgte engines.
Old 06-29-15, 09:02 AM
  #3054  
Reyke
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Great work as usual, nice to see the usual rapid progress
Old 06-30-15, 11:36 AM
  #3055  
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Originally Posted by Reyke
Great work as usual, nice to see the usual rapid progress
Thank you ! Just trying my best buddy .
Old 06-30-15, 11:39 AM
  #3056  
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I have decided to use bigger ARP washers instead of the OEM washers or the smaller ARP washers that came with the head studs.

Here you will see the size difference between ARP washers that came with the stud bolts and the ones that I just ordered yesterday and arrived today. Summit is not really that far from me.

Old 06-30-15, 11:42 AM
  #3057  
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smaller ARP washers that came with the ARP Head stud bolt set has a smaller footprint than the stock OEM washer so it digs into the aluminum head



The ARP washers 200-8747 I just got. Now, I can mate the head with the short block.

Old 06-30-15, 12:13 PM
  #3058  
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After some more investigations and measurements, I can definitely confirm that exhaust and intake valves has +1mm aftermarket valves and its ported . Intakes are around 34.6mm and exhaust are around 30mm. I just can't figure what brand they are at this point but definitely not stock or OEM valves since they are +1mm. There should be no reason why this engine won't support +1000rwhp . My weak link now are the mains caps which are stock and usually should not be pushed above 1100rwhp or you are asking for trouble. Overall, I would be happy to reliably get 1000-11000rwhp from this engine . And for the cost I got this long block with the knockoff Veilside manifold for $1400 after having sold the parts I didn't need from the lot ... you can't beat it.



Last edited by gerrb; 08-20-19 at 06:37 PM.
Old 06-30-15, 03:58 PM
  #3059  
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When you are trying to squeeze a lot of power you need a good dampener like Titan or ATi and you need a billet tensioner that is stronger than the stock cause if that tensioner breaks and you have high lift cams or your engine is interference , you are done... you engine goes kaboooooommmmm !



Billet Tensioner with Gates time belt is one of the best if not the best combination .

Old 07-01-15, 07:43 AM
  #3060  
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Head mated to short block and ARP head studs and camshafts bolts torqued according to specs



Titan Dampener , Billet Tensioner and Gates Timing Belt all installed




I will bolt on the accessories once I have bolted the oil pans. Right now I am still waiting for the Toyota FIPG I ordered online.


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