2jzGTE SCs - The Siblings of my Supra MKIV Toys
#3631
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Well I move my vehicles around now in my different places so they are not all in one place or I will be in big trouble. My neighbors will hate me if they see all of them in one place. For those who knows me they know how many vehicles I have
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Last edited by gerrb; 06-09-16 at 08:07 AM.
#3633
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Am about to try MOTEC on my current build , the Black Pearl. It is supposed to be the cream of the crop as per my conversation with many well known MKIV builders. But it is the most expensive though .
With regards what I currently have , ProEFI hands down is the best. First , it is the only ECU right now that properly controls a built Automatic transmission. Most of the other ECUs cannot control an auto trans or if they can like the AEM V2 / V1... not properly. Then it also has the most or best features in my opinion . Like I like a lot its fail safe features which will help you protect your investments . Not saying the rest do not have ... I said it has the best without the price point of MOTEC. The only thing I don't like with ProEFI is its software interface layout which has nothing to do with the way it controls your car.
If you have spent tons of money on your engine , having a good ECU that will protect your engine should be someone's next investment and ProEFI gets my vote. Though it is more expensive compared to AEM Infinity , V2 or V1 , Haltech .
One thing one has to consider in choosing an ECU is.... it is only as good as your tuner . If your tuner do not work with the kind of ECU you get then its features won't be maximized . So talk to your tuner if you don't do your own tuning. Rather , if you get a particular ECU , make sure your tuner is really good with that ECU.
For those who do have a manual transmission , if you don't want to spend tons , AEM V2 is good enough . The only thing with it is, AEM had stopped all software / firmware / hardware upgrades on the AEM V2 . They are pushing more the AEM Infinity. A lot of the AEM V1s now are very old , been over used so getting one second hand takes a lot of risk . AEM do not support the V1s anymore, period. It is easy to navigate around the AEM software interface. I have tinkered a lot with my Haltech ECU so I like it next to my ProEFI considering its features.
With regards what I currently have , ProEFI hands down is the best. First , it is the only ECU right now that properly controls a built Automatic transmission. Most of the other ECUs cannot control an auto trans or if they can like the AEM V2 / V1... not properly. Then it also has the most or best features in my opinion . Like I like a lot its fail safe features which will help you protect your investments . Not saying the rest do not have ... I said it has the best without the price point of MOTEC. The only thing I don't like with ProEFI is its software interface layout which has nothing to do with the way it controls your car.
If you have spent tons of money on your engine , having a good ECU that will protect your engine should be someone's next investment and ProEFI gets my vote. Though it is more expensive compared to AEM Infinity , V2 or V1 , Haltech .
One thing one has to consider in choosing an ECU is.... it is only as good as your tuner . If your tuner do not work with the kind of ECU you get then its features won't be maximized . So talk to your tuner if you don't do your own tuning. Rather , if you get a particular ECU , make sure your tuner is really good with that ECU.
For those who do have a manual transmission , if you don't want to spend tons , AEM V2 is good enough . The only thing with it is, AEM had stopped all software / firmware / hardware upgrades on the AEM V2 . They are pushing more the AEM Infinity. A lot of the AEM V1s now are very old , been over used so getting one second hand takes a lot of risk . AEM do not support the V1s anymore, period. It is easy to navigate around the AEM software interface. I have tinkered a lot with my Haltech ECU so I like it next to my ProEFI considering its features.
Last edited by gerrb; 06-02-16 at 09:55 AM.
#3634
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I finally was able to weld all my fittings on my Black Pearl fuel tank. As you all know , I am just learning how to weld. Doing it myself not only help me save tons that I can divert to go fast goodies but also having the skills can come very handy if you love to tinker with your car. It is not hard , just needs a lot of practice and the right equipments.
The welds were not that pretty being a learner in welding but am pretty sure they were welded well and are not going anywhere. For double insurance from leaking if ever it turns up side down or the car lays on its side in an accident , I applied JB steel weld all around the fittings then to make the tank a bit presentable even if this will be hidden , I applied bondo and now am hand sanding , which I hate most , then paint the gas tank black .
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The welds were not that pretty being a learner in welding but am pretty sure they were welded well and are not going anywhere. For double insurance from leaking if ever it turns up side down or the car lays on its side in an accident , I applied JB steel weld all around the fittings then to make the tank a bit presentable even if this will be hidden , I applied bondo and now am hand sanding , which I hate most , then paint the gas tank black .
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Last edited by gerrb; 06-04-16 at 07:30 AM.
#3635
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painted the gas tank
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Time to assemble the +1500rwhp capable fuel system ..... the triple densos , feed and return lines for both weldon and denso pumps. You can only get two pumps in through the front opening and have to assemble the third inside the gas tank.
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Time to assemble the +1500rwhp capable fuel system ..... the triple densos , feed and return lines for both weldon and denso pumps. You can only get two pumps in through the front opening and have to assemble the third inside the gas tank.
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Last edited by gerrb; 06-04-16 at 04:08 PM.
#3636
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This is a proof that 3 Denso pumps will easily fit inside the slosh tank of the SC300 / SC400 fuel tank. You don't need a special hanger that will cost you at least $400 to have multiple pumps. But if you have the funds to buy an aftermarket hanger then lucky you. For us who do not have that money to spare , your stock hanger will work . You will have to isolate each pump's body from every other pump by having rubber in between each. Make sure the rubber or hoses or electrical wiring you use will withstand gasoline or alcohol for those using E85.
You need to get all the wiring done before putting in the pumps. All you have to do once they are all in is clamp the 3rd pump to the two which were already clamped together when you put them into the tank.
Instead of using hard tubes , decided to use PTFE lines so they are flexible inside . It is kinda busy inside that slosh tank so I need to be able to move things around easily.
-10an return line on the left for the whole system and -12an feed line for the Weldon 2345a
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This is how they will be positioned inside the slosh tank. The return line will be on the upper right corner of the slosh tank and the Weldon feed will be at the lower right corner behind the pumps hanger. Don't let your tank sit around empty in different weather temperatures. Humidity / Condensation will initiate surface rusts. Need to get this going by tomorrow , fill it up so I can restart the car again.
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3 denso pumps that are already wired are in ... all I have to do is clamp the 3rd with the other two. You will need the help of someone with a smaller hand / arms so he / she can hold the 3rd pump with the clamp through the fuel level sender opening while you tighten the clamp for all the three through the main fuel pump opening. The dang edges of that fuel sender opening is very sharp so you need somebody with really small hands / arms . Once they are all tightened up and hanger bolted to the tank , all the denso filters are on one side of the slosh tank where as the return and feed of Weldon are on the other side of the slosh tank. You want the return line not to be near the denso pump filters so no air packets can be absorbed by the pumps that can cause cavitations .
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You need to get all the wiring done before putting in the pumps. All you have to do once they are all in is clamp the 3rd pump to the two which were already clamped together when you put them into the tank.
Instead of using hard tubes , decided to use PTFE lines so they are flexible inside . It is kinda busy inside that slosh tank so I need to be able to move things around easily.
-10an return line on the left for the whole system and -12an feed line for the Weldon 2345a
![Name: 20160604_173637_zpsb7nuykec.jpg
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Size: 339.6 KB](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/attachments/build-threads/420723d1501272676-2jzgte-scs-the-siblings-of-my-supra-mkiv-toys-20160604_173637_zpsb7nuykec.jpg)
This is how they will be positioned inside the slosh tank. The return line will be on the upper right corner of the slosh tank and the Weldon feed will be at the lower right corner behind the pumps hanger. Don't let your tank sit around empty in different weather temperatures. Humidity / Condensation will initiate surface rusts. Need to get this going by tomorrow , fill it up so I can restart the car again.
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3 denso pumps that are already wired are in ... all I have to do is clamp the 3rd with the other two. You will need the help of someone with a smaller hand / arms so he / she can hold the 3rd pump with the clamp through the fuel level sender opening while you tighten the clamp for all the three through the main fuel pump opening. The dang edges of that fuel sender opening is very sharp so you need somebody with really small hands / arms . Once they are all tightened up and hanger bolted to the tank , all the denso filters are on one side of the slosh tank where as the return and feed of Weldon are on the other side of the slosh tank. You want the return line not to be near the denso pump filters so no air packets can be absorbed by the pumps that can cause cavitations .
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Last edited by gerrb; 06-06-16 at 05:01 AM.
#3637
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It was tough since I didn't have help with smaller arms / hands to get through the fuel sender opening . It took a while but managed to clamp all the three together using the front fuel tank opening
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Better pictures of how they are seated inside the slosh tank . You might be wondering why I have two positive wires per pump. It is just part of my being **** about stuff inside a fuel gas tank. I wanted to make sure the wires can handle the amperage at full power since the Denso TT pumps are known to use a lot of current. I hate to have any wire overheating . Every Denso Pump together with the Weldon 2345a will have its own relay so I can turn on and off any of them through the ECU. After I had my afternoon nap , I will install the tank back in the Black Pearl so I can fill it up with fuel again and get the car running again.
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Better pictures of how they are seated inside the slosh tank . You might be wondering why I have two positive wires per pump. It is just part of my being **** about stuff inside a fuel gas tank. I wanted to make sure the wires can handle the amperage at full power since the Denso TT pumps are known to use a lot of current. I hate to have any wire overheating . Every Denso Pump together with the Weldon 2345a will have its own relay so I can turn on and off any of them through the ECU. After I had my afternoon nap , I will install the tank back in the Black Pearl so I can fill it up with fuel again and get the car running again.
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Last edited by gerrb; 06-05-16 at 06:28 PM.
#3639
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The fuel tank is back where it belongs ... still need to wire in 4 relays, one for each pump . Didn't have time today . It was kinda hard tightening those fittings using a huge wrench with a very limited space.
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Last edited by gerrb; 06-05-16 at 04:39 PM.
#3641
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Ssshhhh ... it's my mobile Moonshine Still
. Remember I will be processing a lot of corn and distilling it...ton's of it . This car will run better when it is drunk with E85 !
Finally got my tank cover back after wiring the four relays , one for each pump. There are two things I still want to do inside the trunk.
a) Take out the stock amplifier / disc changer and relocate my battery and fuse box. Anyway , later on , I have plans of installing a nice music system with twin subs occupying the rear seats ... rear seat delete , after all the damn rear seats are useless.
b) Replace the 5 lbs NX Express nitrous bottle with another 10 lbs so I have twins NX Express 10 lbs and get a dual nitrous bottle bracket. That will look better
.
Relocating the fusebox and battery will eventually make my engine bay look cleaner and less cluttered. I want the beauty of the stroker VVTi setup with its direct port nitrous setup to shine kinda like my Red Mamba One with its hard stainless nitrous lines. I want the car to look good , clean and all functional... not necessarily show quality. I have bad experience in making every part of the car show quality when I used to have that 3000GT Spyder. Well I had 3 of them at one time . When you make them spotless or immaculate looking or everything like new, you are tempted to use them less cause you don't want them getting dirty and they become garage queens ... only used in shows until you get tired of it and sell it and somebody else benefits. It is like paying for a nice boob job for your girl friend and all you do is look at them then someone else benefits when you break up. I don't want my SCs to be that way. Rain or shine I should not hesitate to use and enjoy them .
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And to bring all that corn syrup (E85) and laughing gas (N2O) from the rear to the engine bay , there are two -10AN PTFE Feed lines and two -4AN Nitrous Feed lines and one -10AN PTFE return line
![Wink](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Finally got my tank cover back after wiring the four relays , one for each pump. There are two things I still want to do inside the trunk.
a) Take out the stock amplifier / disc changer and relocate my battery and fuse box. Anyway , later on , I have plans of installing a nice music system with twin subs occupying the rear seats ... rear seat delete , after all the damn rear seats are useless.
b) Replace the 5 lbs NX Express nitrous bottle with another 10 lbs so I have twins NX Express 10 lbs and get a dual nitrous bottle bracket. That will look better
![Thumb Up](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Relocating the fusebox and battery will eventually make my engine bay look cleaner and less cluttered. I want the beauty of the stroker VVTi setup with its direct port nitrous setup to shine kinda like my Red Mamba One with its hard stainless nitrous lines. I want the car to look good , clean and all functional... not necessarily show quality. I have bad experience in making every part of the car show quality when I used to have that 3000GT Spyder. Well I had 3 of them at one time . When you make them spotless or immaculate looking or everything like new, you are tempted to use them less cause you don't want them getting dirty and they become garage queens ... only used in shows until you get tired of it and sell it and somebody else benefits. It is like paying for a nice boob job for your girl friend and all you do is look at them then someone else benefits when you break up. I don't want my SCs to be that way. Rain or shine I should not hesitate to use and enjoy them .
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Views: 263
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And to bring all that corn syrup (E85) and laughing gas (N2O) from the rear to the engine bay , there are two -10AN PTFE Feed lines and two -4AN Nitrous Feed lines and one -10AN PTFE return line
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Last edited by gerrb; 06-09-16 at 06:23 AM.
#3645
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For those asking how the pumps were wired and how are they controlled .......
For each of the 4 pumps (3 Denso TT & 1 Weldon 2345a) :
Ignition Switched Battery Voltage -> Relay Coil Pin 86 -> Relay Coil Pin 85 -> ECU Switched Ground if all conditions are met
Note : ECU controls the conditions when the relay coil should be energized thus controls when the pump goes on-line or off-line ... e.g. Boost Pressure and a lot other possible conditions based on the features of your ECU.
When the coil of the relay is energized , pump goes online .
Battery Voltage - > Fuse -> Relay Switch Pin 30 -> Relay Switch Pin 87 -> Pump -> Ground
Here is the wiring I did for my 3 Denso Pumps and Weldon 2345a that is now installed . I actually used 5 relays since two were for the Weldon 2345a for better control (ordinary / race mode with the 14000 controller)
For each of the 4 pumps (3 Denso TT & 1 Weldon 2345a) :
Ignition Switched Battery Voltage -> Relay Coil Pin 86 -> Relay Coil Pin 85 -> ECU Switched Ground if all conditions are met
Note : ECU controls the conditions when the relay coil should be energized thus controls when the pump goes on-line or off-line ... e.g. Boost Pressure and a lot other possible conditions based on the features of your ECU.
When the coil of the relay is energized , pump goes online .
Battery Voltage - > Fuse -> Relay Switch Pin 30 -> Relay Switch Pin 87 -> Pump -> Ground
Here is the wiring I did for my 3 Denso Pumps and Weldon 2345a that is now installed . I actually used 5 relays since two were for the Weldon 2345a for better control (ordinary / race mode with the 14000 controller)
![Name: 20160610_082230_zps8xln4crj.jpg
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Last edited by gerrb; 06-10-16 at 11:15 AM.